What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (56 Viewers)

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Spent most of the day working on my son's high school baseball field. After we decided to get in a little bit of fishing. I went to lock it up and got flashing lights with no CDL lock light. (I heard the relay click in the DS kick panel). Turn off the lockers and proceeded with no worries (other than wondering why my CDL wasn't locking).

Two hours later we are heading home on the highway and the CDL light flickers and I realize I hadn't pushed the CDL button off. I push it off then decide to push it again. Lights up.

Any suggestions?

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Well, here is my setup...... I hope we are gtg with charge controller in the cab instead of under the hood (ran 6 awg wire from home battery to fusr block in quarterpanel compartment).... Instructions say maximum of 10 ft away from battery..... Time will tell. Btw, I will be running a renogy 100w solar panel to power my arb fridge, only real reason why I did this...


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Before solar charge controller

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Well, here is my setup...... I hope we are gtg with charge controller in the cab instead of under the hood (ran 6 awg wire from home battery to fusr block in quarterpanel compartment).... Instructions say maximum of 10 ft away from battery..... Time will tell.

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My understanding that there is greater loss the further from the battery you install it.
 
My understanding that there is greater loss the further from the battery you install it.
Was chatting with cruiserdrew on his solar power thread and I told him I only plan to power my Arb fridge with the 100 watt panel and he had told me since I am running thicker 6 guage wire he feels I should have no problems even with the minimal charging efficiency drop I will have with controller that far from battery... Well see....I'll report back how power system setup works when I get a chance to go out to boonies...
 
Watching it rain and decided to do the charcoal canister mod. Used a carbide burr and removed the check ball on the tank side. Refilled the charcoal with new and jb weld back together. Hopefully no more fuel leaking out the gas cap on steep hills
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Was chatting with cruiserdrew on his solar power thread and I told him I only plan to power my Arb fridge with the 100 watt panel and he had told me since I am running thicker 6 guage wire he feels I should have no problems even with the minimal charging efficiency drop I will have with controller that far from battery... Well see....I'll report back how power system setup works when I get a chance to go out to boonies...

Yep. You should be fine.
 
Keeping in mind that this is coming from someone comfortable with most wiring harness work, your job should be relatively easy in this case. Just take a good look at what is obviously a factory harness.. and remove everything that isn't that. The stock stuff will be neatly bundled with a wrap to provide abrasion resistance, and most toyota wires have small silver dots along the length of wire along with any stripe they use for identification. Any random wire stretched across a span is not factory. The loose red and black wires, and that white/black wrapped around another harness are good examples.

Most alarms will tap into a bunch of wires, but usually the only significant one they need to CUT is the circuit from the ignition switch to the starter, usually sending it through a relay for starter interrupt. You will need to splice this back together. Any other taps you remove will need to be wrapped with electrical tape or heat shrink if you want to depin that wire from the connector to be able to slide it over.

I think i have found the relay mention by @bloc. For sure I know if I disconnect the relay the truck will not crank. Before I commit the vehicle equivalent of self harm can someone confirm the following:

1) The Yellow wire can be safely cut, spliced and insulated.
2) The red wire can be safely cut, spliced and insulated.
3) The Black and White wires are the same as those in the wiring diag attached.
4) The black & white wires need to be spliced together - if so do I need the 50A fuse mentioned in the drawing or is that in a fuse box somewhere.

What else do I need to know at this stage? :meh:


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I think i have found the relay mention by @bloc. For sure I know if I disconnect the relay the truck will not crank. Before I commit the vehicle equivalent of self harm can someone confirm the following:

1) The Yellow wire can be safely cut, spliced and insulated.
2) The red wire can be safely cut, spliced and insulated.
3) The Black and White wires are the same as those in the wiring diag attached.
4) The black & white wires need to be spliced together - if so do I need the 50A fuse mentioned in the drawing or is that in a fuse box somewhere.

What else do I need to know at this stage? :meh:


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Basically all of the wires in that photo don't look factory to me, and would be removed completely. This excludes the black connector to far right with lots of wires. That is OEM.

If you follow where that wrapped harness goes over the column to the other side, you should see them tap into the large bundle of wires through the black connector visible to the right. Personally I'd do my removal there. Most likely you'll find a large black wire with white stripe that the large black and white wires from your relay interrupt. This needs to be spliced back together. The other red/yellow/white-black wires likely tap into circuits in this bundle and those taps can be removed.
 
@bloc you da man. :flipoff2: . Followed as per your suggestion and sure enough there was a additional harness connected between the OEM harness. Unplugged it and reconnected the two ends of the OEM harness and my old security system now a thing of the past...:clap:
Oh..and my truck starts...:bounce:

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Basket and light bar installed. Used a flat 2-wire connection for easy removal for when I don't want the basket up there.

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@bloc you da man. :flipoff2: . Followed as per your suggestion and sure enough there was a additional harness connected between the OEM harness. Unplugged it and reconnected the two ends of the OEM harness and my old security system now a thing of the past...:clap:
Oh..and my truck starts...:bounce:

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You are lucky. Many alarms get installed without the expense of specific adapter harnesses and they hack up the factory wiring.

Either way, glad to help.
 
I installed a new exhaust system. It sounds great but I am throwing an o2 sensor code, not sure why. I wasn't throwing the code prior to the new system. Gotta get that sorted out...

Very nice that everything just bolts right up with the new hardware, new cushions and
gaskets.

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Went out to Calico for a local clubs annual Earth Day event
Only 80 and just a handful of Toyotas in a herd of Jeeps


Canyon started out good then started to get narrower and narrower
Then this happened, got lucky i'm pretty sure that little plastic piece on the sliding window kept it from breaking





Beat on it pretty good but overall really happy with how it performed. Kept up fine with built rubicons on 37's
Only place I had trouble and needed a winch. Almost had it and I think with bigger tires would of made it. Think only 2 or 3 out of 14 made it


 
Spent most of the day working on my son's high school baseball field. After we decided to get in a little bit of fishing. I went to lock it up and got flashing lights with no CDL lock light. (I heard the relay click in the DS kick panel). Turn off the lockers and proceeded with no worries (other than wondering why my CDL wasn't locking).

Two hours later we are heading home on the highway and the CDL light flickers and I realize I hadn't pushed the CDL button off. I push it off then decide to push it again. Lights up.

Any suggestions?

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Mine did the same thing to me at Badlands today.
 
Wishing I had a double jointed wrist. Replaced the VSV.

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Very impressed with all of the uplanding you guys get access to. We just have a ton of rough and gravel roads. No real trails to speak of. I just got the whole map of the Chequamegon National Forest which has all the roads marked out.

My rig is ready for the adventure. I will post pics of the trails as they become available. I am driving the Gunflint Trai, which is a historic access road into the BWCAW in May. It won't be a chlenge, but bringing everything along will be. I imagine at least two, if not three, canoes will be on the rack and I'll have a lot of cargo.
 

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