What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (58 Viewers)

[warezdog]

Who is going to be the best place to get new extended brake lines from?

And if you don't go the slee route here are some Napa #'s you can also use these part #'s in rockauto as well if needed.

DO NOT THANK ME, I Simply have been compiling a list of useful info off MUD where I can keep a cheat sheet handy.

LEFT FRONT HOSE REPLACEMENT:
38796 17-3/16" STOCK
38329 20-3/4"
38794 19-3/8"
38795 20-1/8"

RIGHT FRONT HOSE REPLACEMENT:
380231 11-1/8" STOCK
38790 15-1/4"
380163 14-3/4"

REAR HOSE REPLACEMENT:
38927 13-1/2" STOCK
380535 18-1/2"

OR TOYO numbers

Part 90947-A2016 for the Right (Passenger) Front
- 2 1/8'' gained from stock.

Part 96940-34605 for the Left (Driver) Front
- 4 3/8" gained from stock

Part 96940-34705 for the rear
-5" gained from stock


93-97 W/ABS EXTENDED KIT $209 shipped VIA Akella replaces EVERYTHING that is not hard line.
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, FRONT AXLE TO CALIPER 90947-02A16 X2
GASKET(FOR FRONT FLEXIBLE HOSE) 90430-10074 X4
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, FRAME RO FRONT AXLE, LH L= 18.13" 96940-34605 X1
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, FRAME RO FRONT AXLE, RH L=13.19" 90947-A2016 X1
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, REAR AXLE TO CALIPER, LH 90947-02615 X1
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, REAR AXLE TO CALIPER, RH 90947-02614 X1
GASKET(FOR REAR FLEXIBLE HOSE) 90430-10074 X4
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, FRAME TO REAR AXLE L=18.13" 96940-34605 X1

 

[Box Rocket]

Adam, that's an enviable setup! I have to ask, where did you get (or make) the little avatar of your LC? It's awesome!

Just a little time in Photoshop.

 

[Schmutz]

Got my sons bumper finished...

Nice bumper. Did you buy it or fabricate it yourself?

 

[BILT4ME]

Can you define "bad loose bearing"...

I have some experience with loosing a wheel bearing at 70 + MPH... So just curious if the lock nuts needed a re torque or if the bearing itself was bad.. If so how did you determine...

Lots of great info on here concerning new vs. old bearings...

Since you went the new route already you will want to check those more often as they will need to "seat" themselves in the races, did you swap those also?

I guess I just wanted to pose the question how did you know it was the bearings? And not the spindle, the races, in need of a repack, or re toqure ect...?

I'm extra "sensitive" when it comes to wheel bearings as you can tell

I generally run the "check every time I run it" method these days running 37 PitBulls on HMMV's... But that's me.

-A

I figured with as kick-ass of a rig you have and your level of experience, you already know this answer.

1) Any play in a wheel bearing while still on is "bad".
2) If you rotate the wheel and it's "crunchy", it's bad.
3) If you disassemble clean and inspect, you can tell a bad or worn out bearing by the following characteristics:
A) The race will be "straw" colored when looking at the surface. Even worse if it is "blue". They should always look like brushed stainless or chrome on the race face.
B) The cage of the rollers is so loose that the rollers can fall out of the cage.
C) The race or rollers will have pits in them
D) The rollers look like rat turds.
E) There is smoke billowing from the hub while driving.
F) The wheel and hub fall off while driving.

I have personally experienced A through E on various vehicles throughout the years. Sounds like you experienced E.

Also, you are absolutely correct that bearings and races must wear into or "seat" with each other and need to be double checked regularly. Only if you are in a crisis situation should you mix and match the bearings with races on a setup. This will be a recipe for disaster for any long- term or high speed application.

 

[YinDW]

Moved my bikes to the new house without having to bother with installing the roof rack. Oh the joys of a full-size SUV and 60cm bikes:

Road:
View attachment 1099026

Track:
View attachment 1099027

Off-road:
View attachment 1099028

And the rack:
View attachment 1099029

Cool. Nice to know how many bikes can fit. I have only had two in mine for camping trips.

 

[Sanchez]

Added the Slee 2" Receiver System to the Hanna Quality Bumper. Used a plasma cutter to make the cuts. I had to trim the slee hitch so that it would fit around the swing out latches. Later on I might just weld this piece permanently. This piece is very well built, i'm happy with the end result.

 

[hamishpotter]

Setup my new to me Suv Tent, think we are going to really like this

Landcruiser Tent

• McDowra
• Jun 28, 2015

Pictures of my Gander Mountain tent hooked to the landcruiser

Landcruiser Tent

• McDowra
• Jun 28, 2015

Pictures of my Gander Mountain tent hooked to the landcruiser

Landcruiser Tent

• McDowra
• Jun 28, 2015

Pictures of my Gander Mountain tent hooked to the landcruiser

That looks sweet - could you share any info on it, how it's working?

 

[cleetus]

And if you don't go the slee route here are some Napa #'s you can also use these part #'s in rockauto as well if needed.

DO NOT THANK ME, I Simply have been compiling a list of useful info off MUD where I can keep a cheat sheet handy.

93-97 W/ABS EXTENDED KIT $209 shipped VIA Akella replaces EVERYTHING that is not hard line.
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, FRONT AXLE TO CALIPER 90947-02A16 X2
GASKET(FOR FRONT FLEXIBLE HOSE) 90430-10074 X4
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, FRAME RO FRONT AXLE, LH L= 18.13" 96940-34605 X1
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, FRAME RO FRONT AXLE, RH L=13.19" 90947-A2016 X1
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, REAR AXLE TO CALIPER, LH 90947-02615 X1
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, REAR AXLE TO CALIPER, RH 90947-02614 X1
GASKET(FOR REAR FLEXIBLE HOSE) 90430-10074 X4
HOSE, FLEXIBLE, FRAME TO REAR AXLE L=18.13" 96940-34605 X1

THANK YOU

 

[FZJ80 in KC]

I'm doing a front axle service and trying to separate my birfs from the inner axles. I need to clean and repack everything but I can't get them split...

I've tried the pvc pipe bang method, blew that out and switched to steel. It's not coming undone in two hits like all the videos I've seen. Working on a 91

Use a table mounted vice. Open the vice and hold the birf above it, with the inner axle hanging through the open vice, and drop the birf down onto the top of the vice good and hard. Usually only takes a couple of good whacks and they'll separate.

 

[AMMO]

I figured with as kick-ass of a rig you have and your level of experience, you already know this answer.

1) Any play in a wheel bearing while still on is "bad".
2) If you rotate the wheel and it's "crunchy", it's bad.
3) If you disassemble clean and inspect, you can tell a bad or worn out bearing by the following characteristics:
A) The race will be "straw" colored when looking at the surface. Even worse if it is "blue". They should always look like brushed stainless or chrome on the race face.
B) The cage of the rollers is so loose that the rollers can fall out of the cage.
C) The race or rollers will have pits in them
D) The rollers look like rat turds.
E) There is smoke billowing from the hub while driving.
F) The wheel and hub fall off while driving.

I have personally experienced A through E on various vehicles throughout the years. Sounds like you experienced E.

Also, you are absolutely correct that bearings and races must wear into or "seat" with each other and need to be double checked regularly. Only if you are in a crisis situation should you mix and match the bearings with races on a setup. This will be a recipe for disaster for any long- term or high speed application.

Yup, yup and yup.

I was playing devils advocate for the greater good of the community.

His post was rather vague, "loose" replace...

Nothing mentioned about grinding noise, squeaks or other signs of a bad bearing...

Hate to have folks swapping bearing because of un toqured preload.

(E) all the way... Big thread on it a few years back, can't believe I kept it shinny side up. RT80 in Idaho 75MPh and big rigs all around. Watched my 37" Irock, wheel and hub as roll out and leave me (on fire) bouncing into the median and thankfully not into on coming traffic. Driver side front.

Thanks for posting up some great informative info.

-A

 

[bmac1996acc]

Yup, yup and yup.

I was playing devils advocate for the greater good of the community.

His post was rather vague, "loose" replace...

Nothing mentioned about grinding noise, squeaks or other signs of a bad bearing...

Hate to have folks swapping bearing because of un toqured preload.

(E) all the way... Big thread on it a few years back, can't believe I kept it shinny side up. RT80 in Idaho 75MPh and big rigs all around. Watched my 37" Irock, wheel and hub as roll out and leave me (on fire) bouncing into the median and thankfully not into on coming traffic. Driver side front.

Thanks for posting up some great informative info.

-A

Interesting... anyone have the passenger side front loosen up? Only my driver side does, presumably because the forward rotation of the wheel is counterclockwise and turns the nut loose. That's my theory anyway.

 

[BILT4ME]

Yup, yup and yup.

I was playing devils advocate for the greater good of the community.

His post was rather vague, "loose" replace...

Nothing mentioned about grinding noise, squeaks or other signs of a bad bearing...

Hate to have folks swapping bearing because of un toqured preload.

(E) all the way... Big thread on it a few years back, can't believe I kept it shinny side up. RT80 in Idaho 75MPh and big rigs all around. Watched my 37" Irock, wheel and hub as roll out and leave me (on fire) bouncing into the median and thankfully not into on coming traffic. Driver side front.

Thanks for posting up some great informative info.

-A

I was wondering if that was the case!

Either way, great to bounce ideas and thoughts off of others' for their input!

 

[McDowra]

That looks sweet - could you share any info on it, how it's working?

Just got it, this is the first time we have put it up. It is a Gander Mountain Brand Tent that is discontinued. I will post more as we use it this fall

 

[cleetus]

Interesting... anyone have the passenger side front loosen up? Only my driver side does, presumably because the forward rotation of the wheel is counterclockwise and turns the nut loose. That's my theory anyway.

My pass side was loose when I did the brake job, but the lock washer tabs werent bent over from the last guy who owned it. After brake job, Ill check it in a week or so and see if its loose again.

 

[bmac1996acc]

My pass side was loose when I did the brake job, but the lock washer tabs werent bent over from the last guy who owned it. After brake job, Ill check it in a week or so and see if its loose again.

That'll do it every time

 

[bloc]

Are you guys using a new hub flange gasket every time you check these things? or are they reusable if they haven't been on there for 20 years?

 

[Qball]

Are you guys using a new hub flange gasket every time you check these things? or are they reusable if they haven't been on there for 20 years?

I replace mine if it is torn.

 

[bloc]

That's what I was assuming.. I've never removed one without tearing, but being new to land cruisers I've never removed one that wasnt a decade old also. Wasn't sure if one that is only a few weeks old would tear.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

That's what I was assuming.. I've never removed one without tearing, but being new to land cruisers I've never removed one that wasnt a decade old also. Wasn't sure if one that is only a few weeks old would tear.

First time I did rebuild they tore off so they were replaced. Out of the 5 times I have taken the hubs off since I have only replaced one once due to a tear. I do have new ones on the ready if needed.

 

[LS1FJ40]

I am severely lacking in surplus maintenance and repair parts laying around. That has been the biggest downfall of hemorrhaging cash to pay for cancer treatment (and subsequently having a crappy paying job). My stockpile of Red and White boxes has been depleted. I need to start building up my inventory. Especially with two 80s and a third hopefully on the way some day soon... Or I could just make a trip to LA with an empty suitcase or three and visit Joey... Amirite @NLXTACY?!?!