Seemed like a weird thing to be connected. I look at it closer tomorrow. I’ll be in touch if I can’t get it sorted.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (66 Viewers)
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This has been a three week ordeal, at least, but needed to replace the power steering pressure hoses because it was leaking bad, which means I needed to pull the radiator, which also leaked (picked this up last year, had been sitting in a back yard for almost 6 years).
I had a new line made at a buddy's hose shop (NLA) and trying out the Liland aluminum radiator. Also replaced 4 of the coolant hoses with some silicone ones, will see how they do. Thermostat also replaced which means one of the four bolts in the housing snapped off of course. Welded a nut to it and got it extracted. Replaced lower and upper thermostat gaskets and now just waiting on some heater hoses and sensors.
Also replaced those trans cooler lines with 3/8 universal line and easiest one of the biggest pains I've ever dealt with. Of course Toyota doesn't make those hoses anymore or else this project would have been done two weeks ago.
I had a new line made at a buddy's hose shop (NLA) and trying out the Liland aluminum radiator. Also replaced 4 of the coolant hoses with some silicone ones, will see how they do. Thermostat also replaced which means one of the four bolts in the housing snapped off of course. Welded a nut to it and got it extracted. Replaced lower and upper thermostat gaskets and now just waiting on some heater hoses and sensors.
Also replaced those trans cooler lines with 3/8 universal line and easiest one of the biggest pains I've ever dealt with. Of course Toyota doesn't make those hoses anymore or else this project would have been done two weeks ago.
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Or I’m dumb & hit the window lock button without realizing it.
Went to play around with some Joops (and a SxS)
And once again got to cozy with a tree
Luckily Im about to order a new rear bumper.
Also, I got this 4 way tire inflation kit a few weeks back and this thing is badass! Really happy with it!
And once again got to cozy with a tree
Luckily Im about to order a new rear bumper.
Also, I got this 4 way tire inflation kit a few weeks back and this thing is badass! Really happy with it!
Finally replaced those stretched out back seat pockets for some nicer ones.
COS80
SILVER Star
What are these two things connected directly to my starter and alternator cables?
That’s part of the fusible link.
That's cool, where do you buy those?
My buddy makes um his website is plaid wagon. I have some of the first ones he made in brown, still going strong no issues after four years
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Got a couple cometic HG for the next two builds.
Did the annual oil change. Rotella 15w-40, plus a couple quarts of Lucas.
I also decided to try my hand at replacing brake pads for the first time, as I started to hear a little bit of a squeak coming from the front last week. Did some research and seemed like a pretty straightforward, simple job.
Ordered pads from Olethe, went with 80 series OEM vs. the thicker 100 series.
I removed the old pads and discovered that there were no shims present! Apparently the PO or whoever put these most recent brake pads in did not use shims. Everything I've read and seen online indicates there should be shims, and installing pads without shims is generally a bad idea. That being said, I also understand that the main purpose of the shims is to prevent noise (?). I've owned this rig for 4 and 1/2 years using the same brake pads, and never had any noise at all. I have no idea how long these pads have been installed before I owned the vehicle, but based on how much pad was left and the limited miles I've put on the vehicle, I would say probably quite some time.
I stopped my work and ordered a shim kit. If I'm going to do the job, I want to try and do it right. But my question for this group is this: if I'm getting zero noise without shims, are the shims truly necessary?
I also decided to try my hand at replacing brake pads for the first time, as I started to hear a little bit of a squeak coming from the front last week. Did some research and seemed like a pretty straightforward, simple job.
Ordered pads from Olethe, went with 80 series OEM vs. the thicker 100 series.
I removed the old pads and discovered that there were no shims present! Apparently the PO or whoever put these most recent brake pads in did not use shims. Everything I've read and seen online indicates there should be shims, and installing pads without shims is generally a bad idea. That being said, I also understand that the main purpose of the shims is to prevent noise (?). I've owned this rig for 4 and 1/2 years using the same brake pads, and never had any noise at all. I have no idea how long these pads have been installed before I owned the vehicle, but based on how much pad was left and the limited miles I've put on the vehicle, I would say probably quite some time.
I stopped my work and ordered a shim kit. If I'm going to do the job, I want to try and do it right. But my question for this group is this: if I'm getting zero noise without shims, are the shims truly necessary?
If you ordered OEM pads, the shims should already be attached to the back of the pads (or at least packaged with them). No other shims required. And yes, as far as I know, the shims are only there to prevent noise - maybe to protect the caliper pistons from wear by rubbing on the brake pad metal backing.
Do your pads not have any shims on the back of the brake pad backing metal?
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I have never seen a set of brake pads that didn't include shims
Ecliff5
SILVER Star
I’ve had a rear end clunk that has been driving me nuts for a couple months now that I have been trying to track down.
The rear end would clunk/pop on almost every turn, like something was shifting back and forth once in each direction.
I rebuilt my rear LCP swaybar links, that helped with a creak from the heim joint but the clunk was still there.
I replaced my rear panhard bushings with new oem bushings. Clunk still there.
I checked every nut and bolt, all control arms are newish with new bushings.
Figure I should check the body mounts at this point. The rear most mounts are pretty well hidden with the 4x4 labs bumper but the cut out on the bottom let me shine a light in there and what would you know, signs of shifting were slightly present.
I took the rear bumper off to access the rear mounts, removed the plastic cover to access the top of the bolt and as soon as I put a wrench on the bolt it would spin, surprisingly loose. Both sides.
I backed off the lock nut, tightened the mount up and locked it back in place. Went for a test drive before I put the bumper back on and yahoo the clunk was gone!
Tossed the bumper back on and she is good to go.
Ignore all the nasty fluid film but it kind of helped show the little bit of movement at the top of the mount sliding on the body.
Happy Merl.
The rear end would clunk/pop on almost every turn, like something was shifting back and forth once in each direction.
I rebuilt my rear LCP swaybar links, that helped with a creak from the heim joint but the clunk was still there.
I replaced my rear panhard bushings with new oem bushings. Clunk still there.
I checked every nut and bolt, all control arms are newish with new bushings.
Figure I should check the body mounts at this point. The rear most mounts are pretty well hidden with the 4x4 labs bumper but the cut out on the bottom let me shine a light in there and what would you know, signs of shifting were slightly present.
I took the rear bumper off to access the rear mounts, removed the plastic cover to access the top of the bolt and as soon as I put a wrench on the bolt it would spin, surprisingly loose. Both sides.
I backed off the lock nut, tightened the mount up and locked it back in place. Went for a test drive before I put the bumper back on and yahoo the clunk was gone!
Tossed the bumper back on and she is good to go.
Ignore all the nasty fluid film but it kind of helped show the little bit of movement at the top of the mount sliding on the body.
Happy Merl.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
On my last wheeling trip, I blew out my front diff...open up front, but re-geared by the P.O. at least 10 years ago to 4:56's. I have the ARB in the rear from the P.O. as well with the ARB single compressor. I'd use the compressor mainly for the locker, but occasionally for a fill up until I got my power tank. I have a new front built 3rd coming from @cruiseroutfit in the next couple of days...with the ARB locker up front of course! After pulling off my rear panel to plan on adding the extra solenoid to the manifold, I found that my old compressor was leaking oil all over the place...perfect time for an upgrade!
I had the QPM from Witt's End (long story there!), and waiting for a good reason to re-wire/plumb the rear quarter...here's my reason! Got the ARB brushless twin mounted up, waiting for the solenoid with the front kit coming shortly before placing the manifold and getting wiring reorganized. Thankfully the new twin has a nice quick release mount, so I could get the mount attached properly and then install the pump after the QPM is in place. I'm trying to get this wrapped up before I dig into the front axle in the next week or two...
A quick before and starting after...the bracket for the compressor fit flush to the edge of the first bend, shimmed slightly on the top so the compressor doesn't hit the panel at the top. I had to use a very shallow button head bold on the back side so it doesn't foul on the inside of the rear quarter sheet metal, but after a couple of trial fits of various hardware, I got it secured nicely with enough air gap in the bottom for the intakes, and about an inch of clearance to the inside of the trim panel. I'll have the fuse box and air hookup inside of the removable hatch panel. The compressor sits right behind the vent louvers and non-existent rear sub grill, so there should be plenty of fresh air flow back there.
I had the QPM from Witt's End (long story there!), and waiting for a good reason to re-wire/plumb the rear quarter...here's my reason! Got the ARB brushless twin mounted up, waiting for the solenoid with the front kit coming shortly before placing the manifold and getting wiring reorganized. Thankfully the new twin has a nice quick release mount, so I could get the mount attached properly and then install the pump after the QPM is in place. I'm trying to get this wrapped up before I dig into the front axle in the next week or two...
A quick before and starting after...the bracket for the compressor fit flush to the edge of the first bend, shimmed slightly on the top so the compressor doesn't hit the panel at the top. I had to use a very shallow button head bold on the back side so it doesn't foul on the inside of the rear quarter sheet metal, but after a couple of trial fits of various hardware, I got it secured nicely with enough air gap in the bottom for the intakes, and about an inch of clearance to the inside of the trim panel. I'll have the fuse box and air hookup inside of the removable hatch panel. The compressor sits right behind the vent louvers and non-existent rear sub grill, so there should be plenty of fresh air flow back there.
Ecliff5
SILVER Star
If you have gear oil leaking out of your compressor, your rear air locker is leaking internally and diff oil is coming up the air line. Disconnect the air line at the diff, activate the rear locker and see if diff oil comes shooting out of the line.
A new compressor won’t fix that.
