I don’t run a front sway bar. So up to you.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (30 Viewers)
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Oh Funny I just watch Dave's video about his D50.
Raptor liner
He’s such a cool guy, we talked to him the night before this photo, he seems to have time to talk to everyone. In this photo I was fairly certain dude was hung over so I wasn’t about to ask for a selfie, I just wanted a pic of the 80 next to his D50, but he was cool and waved anyway.
I've had a ton of fun the last few days...
Installed the Trail Gear 3:1 low range gears without any issues - pretty straightforward, actually. I am planning on boosting my rig at some point and really needed the lower gearing for the trails I run here in CO. I've run out of torque/power a few times and sure the transmission doesn't love it.
Might regear the 3rds at some point, but we'll see.
Also took apart my rear diff actuator (just stopped working) to find that the arm attached to the larger gear was really bent and it was a bit dirty in there. It's all working smoothly now!!
Installed the Trail Gear 3:1 low range gears without any issues - pretty straightforward, actually. I am planning on boosting my rig at some point and really needed the lower gearing for the trails I run here in CO. I've run out of torque/power a few times and sure the transmission doesn't love it.
Might regear the 3rds at some point, but we'll see.
Also took apart my rear diff actuator (just stopped working) to find that the arm attached to the larger gear was really bent and it was a bit dirty in there. It's all working smoothly now!!
Where in Colorado are you running out of torque as the factory crawl ratio is 60:1? Are you sure you’re actually in Low. The 3.11 is a great upgrade but I don’t know anyone who did it because they ran out of power.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
I'm not in CO, but I have "run out of power" more than once in the '80. Particularly before the 4.88s. Slow speed or standing start on a very steep slope where the engine does not have the power to get the rig moving fast enough to exceed stall speed would be one situation. You wind up spinning the engine, just below stall and slipping and not moving. More common in my world would be trying to push up out of a deep water crossing where the load of the water being displaced by moving rig and the climb up the bank combine to simply surpass what the engine/gearing combo can provide. You might creep forwards, but it is a lot of stress on the tranny to get it done.
More simple is where you are just trying to get over a steep obstruction (think big rock). Gentle controlled application of power is always preferable than pushing the throttle to the point that the rig tries to surge forward as soon as you push past the heaviest load point. Riding the brakes hard helps with this, but that is an approach that works, not the best approach
An FZJ 80 has about a 30:1 ultimate crawl ratio. The torque multiplication of the torque converter does kinda sorta boost that by about a factor of 2. But it is not a cut and dry simple thing. Even if we just call it so, that "60:1" is not all that low. Especially if you have put larger tires on the rig.
4.88s and the 3.11 low range gears will bring the late model '80 with the 343 tranny down to 42:1 (84:1 if you like). Decent improvement over stock, but still not anything extreme.
Mark...
Ya water displacement from a bank I can mildly understand given how many vehicles struggle to pull boats out of the water but again no situation I have ever heard of in CO where you ran out of power, again why I specifically asked.
Ideal rock crawling ratio for manual is 100:1 and around 50:1 in auto but again that’s for slow controlled crawling in deep rocks not because the vehicle ran out of power. I have 3 wheeling the rigs so I’m not debating the value kf crawl ratios and gear reductions, I’m asking about the dudes specific Colorado experience.
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The first step is to get a real temperature gauge. Either an OBD scanner with temp read out (like scangauge or Torque) or a dedicated gauge like the Koso. The factory water temp gauge is not actually a gauge. It's an idiot light disguised as a gauge and will only move after you've already overheated.
Got tired of my ultra gauge just flying about so I took the stupid clip on rear view mirror from po. The clip on part fits the ultra gauge perfectly so some cutting and hacking plus a little 2 sided tape and a temporary remedy was born, and like a govt program will likely be in place for way longer than it was intended.
Thank You I will lQQk into flushing system. Will radiator show flow with cap off? In for the long haul is there a link for complete parts and redo options,, in Florida truck will do 3k per or so this trip was a one off journey Karl
JohnnyFish
GOLD Star
Removed the 4x4labs rear bumper from my LX to paint it with SteelIt. Love this skookum af bumper and thankful the PO added it.
I washed mine and cracked the windshield even further, at first it was across the top from passenger to the middle and now it goes straight down.
I should've had the AC on while it was idling in the driveway but hit it with cold water and crack...
I should've had the AC on while it was idling in the driveway but hit it with cold water and crack...
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Cold water in Phoenix, in July???I washed mine and cracked the windshield even further, at first it was across the top from passenger to the middle and now it goes straight down.
I should've had the AC on while it was idling in the driveway but hit it with cold water and crack...
I am not sure it even passes for lukewarm! I turn down the temp on my water heater this time of year, my garage is over well over 90 unless I have the AC running.
I do the same thing at our place. The water running through the attic heats it up quickly.Cold water in Phoenix, in July???
I was using my pressure washer/foam gun for the first time and wasn't thinking till I saw the crack.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Rocks must be different in CO than in AK I guess. Than UT as well maybe. Or CA. More likely we just have different driving styles. Most of the time on any trail I run, just like anyone else on any trail, I do not need every bit of low gearing that I might have available of course. But none of us build our rigs for the easy sections.
135(ish):1 in a manual on 40 inch tires feels pretty good on the more challenging stuff but it's not overkill. 275:1 on the same size tires is usually overkill but occasionally real nice. Steepest gearing I have in an auto is 42:1 with 35s. Definitely not ideal IMHO. Rock crawling is not at all my primary type of off road activity, so I won't be looking for any steeper in the auto. If It was, I would be. Or, I'd just take the other rigs on those trips and continue the embrace the '80 for what it is. But in no way would I consider the stock 30:1 crawl ration all that is needed for me in that rig. But that's just me.
Mark...
I wheel CA, UT and CO. All granite.Rocks must be different in CO than in AK I guess. Than UT as well maybe. Or CA. More likely we just have different driving styles. Most of the time on any trail I run, just like anyone else on any trail, I do not need every bit of low gearing that I might have available of course. But none of us build our rigs for the easy sections.
135(ish):1 in a manual on 40 inch tires feels pretty good on the more challenging stuff but it's not overkill. 275:1 on the same size tires is usually overkill but occasionally real nice. Steepest gearing I have in an auto is 42:1 with 35s. Definitely not ideal IMHO. Rock crawling is not at all my primary type of off road activity, so I won't be looking for any steeper in the auto. If It was, I would be. Or, I'd just take the other rigs on those trips and continue the embrace the '80 for what it is. But in no way would I consider the stock 30:1 crawl ration all that is needed for me in that rig. But that's just me.
Mark...
Maybe the dude is pushing 39s, idk.
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This looks like a decent place to start, it has extra links on other work/mods on the cooling system. Look into the rear heater delete and check your pesky heater hose (PHH)
Cooling system overhaul
PHH Kit
Rear heater delete from @LandCruiserPhil
You have a bolt on the left hand/drivers side of the block that lets you drain the last of the coolant from the block. It sprays water everywhere. You can replace the bolt with toyota p/n 9091009129 and use it to do cleaner coolant drains in the future, with some hose or tubing.
Been spraying the swingouts on the Labs bumper I’ve been welding together w Steel it, awesome stuff lays out nice and flat, looks similar to powder coat. Anxious to see how it holds up to Maine weather.
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