1993 FZJ80 Cooling System Overhaul (1 Viewer)

[Will Van]

I am putting together a parts-list for my eventual cooling system maintenance/overhaul. I realize there is always some discretion on the best route for maintaining the cooling system, so I'm not really trying to start a debate or argument. Perhaps on some of the parts you might choose an alternate solution, but overall the plan is sound and the system will work. It's also a place to consolidate some of the various threads on the cooling system.


Suggestions and part numbers are welcome!

• Radiator (Toyota OEM or Ron Davis Racing)
• Water Pump (Toyota OEM PN:16100-69325)
• LandTank Modified Fan Clutch (80 Series 1FZ-FE Modified OEM Toyota Blue Fan Clutch)
• Toyota Fan Blade (PN: 16361-66020)
• Toyota Thermostat (Toyota PN: 90916-03117)
• Toyota Thermostat O-Ring (Toyota OEM PN: 16346-66020)
• Toyota Radiator Cap (Toyota OEM PN: 16401-15210)
• Toyota Upper Hose (Toyota OEM PN: 16571-66030)
• Toyota Lower Hose (Toyota OEM PN: 16573-66010 and 16572-66021)
• Retain OEM Toyota Fan Shroud (Toyota OEM PN: 16711-66031)
• Breeze Clamps
• Hi-Temp Foam Seal (Suggestions welcome here)
• Toyota Red Coolant (Toyota OEM PN: ???)
• Grounding kit (???)
• Aftermarket water temp gauge
• OEM Heater Control Valve (Toyota OEM PN: 87240-60140)

Helpful Links:

• Blue fan clutch mod
• Dual Gauge Pod - Install
• Koso slim water temp gauge install
• Heater pipe delete or not?
• Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?
• 93-97 Coolant Temperature Gauge Modification

Thanks for the help!!!

Edit: Thread is a work in progress. I'll continue to update PNs, links, and pics.

 

[ATXLX]

I probably should do this before the summer hits (in Austin too!). Subscribed to see your approach.

 

[baldilocks]

You can save money and buy an Aisin water pump on Amazon, by using green coolant purchased on sale almost anywhere, by using regular hoses, silicone weeps H20 and offers no real positive gains.

I went to the parts counter at my dealer and asked for a thermostat. It works.

Use Toyota belts. They are quiet and reasonably priced.

I run the black hub fan clutch on my 93 which is probably what you have. It’s a good clutch and I run 15k cst oil. It’s my understanding that 15k is pretty much max on the black clutch where as some guys are running 30k cst in the blue clutch.

Do you plan to delete the rear heater? This is a good time to do that, replace the heater valve, by-pass the PHH metal tube with one length of Gates hose and install a temp probe, for a real water temp reading, on the top of the water outlet. Many of us have used the Koso digital temp gauge.

 

[Will Van]

You can save money and buy an Aisin water pump on Amazon, by using green coolant purchased on sale almost anywhere, by using regular hoses, silicone weeps H20 and offers no real positive gains.

I went to the parts counter at my dealer and asked for a thermostat. It works.

Use Toyota belts. They are quiet and reasonably priced.

I run the black hub fan clutch on my 93 which is probably what you have. It’s a good clutch and I run 15k cst oil. It’s my understanding that 15k is pretty much max on the black clutch where as some guys are running 30k cst in the blue clutch.

Do you plan to delete the rear heater? This is a good to time to do that, replace the heater valve, by-pass the PHH metal tube with one length of Gates hose and install a temp probe, for a real water temp reading, on the top of the water outlet. Many of us have used the Koso digital temp gauge.

Great feedback. I'll look for the Amazon Aisin water pump, and I'll avoid the silicone kit and just get OEM hoses.

I'm not sure I understand the differences between a "black" fan clutch and a "blue" fan clutch. Do they have different part numbers? How are they different?

I'm not married to any particular coolant. Just several different reliable sources have advised: "Use what the truck came with from the factory. It was designed and tested using that coolant. And the seals, gaskets, and parts are all designed to work with it." Either way, I think the most important aspect is that if you are switching from red to green, or green to red, flush the system thoroughly.

I'll research a rear heater delete and water temp sensor.

 

[baldilocks]

Gates makes a use of proper diameter which has a 90 degree bend in it and works well for the rear heater delete mod.

Do yourself a favor and and research until your are nauseous before doing these bigger jobs.

 

[NateMob]

@Will Van is that your Ron Davis Radiator? That thing is gorgeous!

 

[Will Van]

I've read a couple of threads about people drilling and tapping the "top water pipe" for a water temp bung. Which pipe are they talking about? The water outlet pipe?

Anybody have a pic?

Adding an aftermarket water temp gauge to a 94 LC (I searched, but..)

Never mind, I found it. Still searching for the PN on the outlet pipe. Edit: PN is Toyota 16304-66020 and 16341-066020)

Koso slim water temp gauge install

 

[Will Van]

Double post.

 

[Will Van]

@Will Van is that your Ron Davis Radiator? That thing is gorgeous!

No sir, that is not mine. I swiped the photo from member @superjuice. You're right though, it's a work of art!

Ron Davis Rad. - transmission line woes​

 

[Will Van]

Gates makes a *hose* of proper diameter which has a 90 degree bend in it and works well for the rear heater delete mod.

Do you have a PN or link for the Gates hose?

 

[Will Van]

I found another pic of the drill/tap, but I'm still not sure which PN this is. Edit: PN is Toyota 16304-66020.

Koso slim water temp gauge install

 

[amgraham]

Do you have a PN or link for the Gates hose?

I used a Dayco 80400 for mine. Worked fine. The rest regular 5/8" straight will work.

 

[baldilocks]

Use a BSP tap not NPT like I did. You will find the gates 90 by searching “rear heater delete. @GW Nugget may be able to help with that gates p/n.

 

[Will Van]

Use a BSP tap not NPT like I did.

Actually, I'm probably going to use an Autometer water temp gauge/sensor and weld a 1/8" NPT bung directly to the aluminum water outlet pipe. But I need a spare outlet pipe to weld to so I can just swap them out when I do the overhaul. I'm 99.9% sure it's Toyota PN 16304-66020.

 

[baldilocks]

Actually, I'm probably going to use an Autometer water temp gauge/sensor and weld a 1/8" NPT bung directly to the aluminum water outlet pipe. But I need a spare outlet pipe to weld to so I can just swap them out when I do the overhaul. I'm 99.9% sure it's Toyota PN 16304-66020.

Welding would be over the top but knock yourself out. You should be able to pick up a used water outlet easy enough.

 

[Will Van]

I used a Dayco 80400 for mine. Worked fine. The rest regular 5/8" straight will work.

You will find the gates 90 by searching “rear heater delete. @GW Nugget may be able to help with that gates p/n.

Found the Gates PN for the 90 degree bend: 28467

Link to the thread: Heater pipe delete or not?

 

[MoJ]

Cooling system parts covered in detail. Beno's post #14 is a great one.
Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?

 

[Will Van]

Cooling system parts covered in detail. Beno's post #14 is a great one.
Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?

Excellent! Thanks, I will add it to the list.

 

[MoJ]

Found the Gates PN for the 90 degree bend: 28467

Link to the thread: Heater pipe delete or not?

Gates 28460 is a common choice - not to say 28467 wouldn't work, I'm just not familiar with it.

Edit: I'll add that O'Reilly stocks 28460.

 

[ajax1]

I just grabbed a 90 degree hose from some other application, rock auto also has water pump for round 70 bucks asian. Second green coolanti use Napa house brand. Don't forget by pass hoses to throttle body 1,2,3. And the orings behind the thermostat were there is a pipe u pull out it is another bypass I believe . Oem radatior also comes with the foam. And heater valve