What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (84 Viewers)

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The Plano rifle cases are kind of a mixed bag, they've kept out the rain but I wish they were about 2 inches taller as you just can't put that much in them...and they feel super flimsy and cheap...oh well, for about $200 for the pair I'm OK with them for now until I figure out a better option.

I'd recommend taking a look at the ROAM cases. My buddy runs them on his Taco and they are very nice quality. But nowhere near that Plano price point.

 
6 nights/7 days of dispersed camping throughout CA (on our way out), UT and CO.

Only snag was my darn seat gears ate themselves again (I think) so the seat is stuck in my position and my gf can't 4 wheel anymore until I fix it. I just put new gears in before the trip so something must be wrong in the alignment I guess (frustrated at that, but otherwise the truck has been running great.)
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Got the Ironman awning and the KISS drawers in just before the trip, both have been great to have (the organization of having drawers is awesome...)
The Plano rifle cases are kind of a mixed bag, they've kept out the rain but I wish they were about 2 inches taller as you just can't put that much in them...and they feel super flimsy and cheap...oh well, for about $200 for the pair I'm OK with them for now until I figure out a better option.

Looks like an awesome trip. I highly recommend these Plano crates. I drove through some crazy rain on our recent Colorado trip and there was no water inside them plus they're taller. And an additional plus, extremely affordable.

Plano Storage Trunk - 68 Quart (1719) - Black Amazon product ASIN B007TOHI7I
 
What sections did you do? Was thinking of doing a quick overnighter through the Ellensburg/Cashmere section this weekend. Any serious obstacles to deal with(if you did get out on that section)?
Started on Bluett/Table mtn. Headed north. Broke off around sugarloaf mtn and went straight north and worked our way down to fish lake.
Unfortunately lost half our trail time to fixing that truck.
Only real technical obstacle is the washout about 75% of the way to wenatchee from table mtn.
Other than that, just lots of big rutted roads but was easy to straddle em in the cruiser. Nothing that was really difficult.
When you're north of cashmere, still pretty low you'll come up on a fork at one point. Right gains a little elevation. Left gets tighter and tighter with brush.
Go right, its a drivearound for that exact reason. Ask me how i know.
 
Installed 4x new OEM calipers and bled the brakes, 4x wheels, triggered ABS, LSPV, 4x wheels and 3x quarts later, Im out of fluid and air is STILL coming out of the LSPV. This sucks.
This is what I'm fearing. I'm going to rebuild my calipers and put new OEM rotors and brake lines on. Everything I've read says that bleeding the brakes is going to be hell.
 
This is what I'm fearing. I'm going to rebuild my calipers and put new OEM rotors and brake lines on. Everything I've read says that bleeding the brakes is going to be hell.
I firmly believe the secret is VERY soft pedal presses just like you're braking. No severe pumping or anything like that. Triggering the ABS is tricky but if you're not part-time, should be easy to just drop 2x wheels onto dirt and smash the brakes. There's a thread about shorting out the connections to activate the pump too. I MAY have activated mine by running the truck in drive and braking with the wheels off. Seems to have worked. Went through 6x quarts of fluid. Probably could've saved 1-2 quarts if we learned about VERY soft pedal presses early on. That MC foams up like a fool and makes the LSPV valve seriously difficult to bleed. Soft presses and it bled 10 times in a row with no issue.

My MC adapter is STILL on back order for my power bleeder. I'll be using it next time but got tired of waiting 3x weeks for it...that was 3x weeks ago. :(
 
I firmly believe the secret is VERY soft pedal presses just like you're braking. No severe pumping or anything like that. Triggering the ABS is tricky but if you're not part-time, should be easy to just drop 2x wheels onto dirt and smash the brakes. There's a thread about shorting out the connections to activate the pump too. I MAY have activated mine by running the truck in drive and braking with the wheels off. Seems to have worked. Went through 6x quarts of fluid. Probably could've saved 1-2 quarts if we learned about VERY soft pedal presses early on. That MC foams up like a fool and makes the LSPV valve seriously difficult to bleed. Soft presses and it bled 10 times in a row with no issue.

My MC adapter is STILL on back order for my power bleeder. I'll be using it next time but got tired of waiting 3x weeks for it...that was 3x weeks ago. :(
Thanks for the advice. I'll be replacing my MC as well while I'm there. My reservoir has cracks.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll be replacing my MC as well while I'm there. My reservoir has cracks.
NP, might want to hit that booster while you're in there. When mine went out on a crowded highway, it was in my top 5 most exciting times. Driving back from Vegas without it was...interesting...
 
This is what I'm fearing. I'm going to rebuild my calipers and put new OEM rotors and brake lines on. Everything I've read says that bleeding the brakes is going to be hell.

Its not that bad.
 
I'd recommend taking a look at the ROAM cases. My buddy runs them on his Taco and they are very nice quality. But nowhere near that Plano price point.

The Plano 108 L storage trunks work great & hold a huge amount of gear for less than $50 each. While not the quality of the Roam they have done the job thus far.
 
One of the positives of working from home is that I can take lunch time to do work on Lexy. Over the past 5 week and up to today:


front to back heater and cooling hose replacements. OEM bent hoses, silicone straight sections.
For reference (although im sure it in some other post) :
30 contant tension hose clamps- combination of OEM style or Breeze constant torque
3' 5/8 silicone bulk hose
3' 1/2 silicone bulk hose (Napa has these, and you talk to the sales guy they will usually give you a break on the per foot price)
thermostat replacement
Oil & Filter change

Replaced center console with Smitty built console Smittybilt 31717 Denim Spice Security Floor Console
installed NOICO RED 150 Min from rear seats forward
quick fist mount for shovel
installed an EAG hi-lift jack braket onto Bowfin roof rack (this thing is solid!, feels like it could be used as armor)
EAG Hi-jack Bracket Mounting Kit for Roof Rack Compatible with 87-20 Jeep Wrangler YJ/TJ/JK/JL

Next is fixing some minor rust under factory roof support rails with some POR15.
 
Finished installing my 2" OME suspension. What a difference
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This is what I'm fearing. I'm going to rebuild my calipers and put new OEM rotors and brake lines on. Everything I've read says that bleeding the brakes is going to be hell.

It can be hell, however if you only open up one hydraulic hose at a time it will go much easier. For example do the hose and caliper on the right rear first, keep the fluid reservoir full so it can drip without letting in air. Once that corner is done, flush the brake fluid until clear using the gatorade bottle method and then move to the right rear. The goal is to minimize chances for air to enter the system, once its in its harder to get out.
 
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I can be hell, however if you only open up one hydraulic hose at a time it will go much easier. For example do the hose and caliper on the right rear first, keep the fluid reservoir full so it can drip without letting in air. Once that corner is done, flush the brake fluid until clear using the gatorade bottle method and then move to the right rear. The goal is to minimize chances for air to enter the system, once its in its harder to get out.
Agree completely on simplicity. Fun thing to do with the kids.
Use a Clear hose to see the brake fluid go from dirty to clear from bleeder outlet to bottle.
Clean brake fluid, new brake booster and OEM brakes made a world of stopping difference.
Enjoy going and stopping.
 
This is what I'm fearing. I'm going to rebuild my calipers and put new OEM rotors and brake lines on. Everything I've read says that bleeding the brakes is going to be hell.

One only rebuilds Toyota calipers once.
I find using the suck (MightyVac) system is the best way to get great brakes that work. The best part is you dont need help
 
One only rebuilds Toyota calipers once.
I find using the suck (MightyVac) system is the best way to get great brakes that work. The best part is you dont need help
Agreed, after I bought a power bleeder there was no more fighting with the wife when it came time to bleed brakes best $$$ I ever spent.
 
Agreed, after I bought a power bleeder there was no more fighting with the wife when it came time to bleed brakes best $$$ I ever spent.
I believe the power bleeder is a pressure system I like the vac system but I agree 100% with the wife part.
 
I believe the power bleeder is a pressure system I like the vac system but I agree 100% with the wife part.
I got tired of burning “favors” for brake bleeding...power bleeder is well worth the investment.
 
In order to make room for the custom Intercooler expansion tank I am having made, ABS had to go. I was already planning on deleting it since I loved the results when I deleted it on my Cummins 80.

Flaring custom brake lines in the engine bay is not my favorite thing to do, maybe it’s just the kit I have is a PIA to use. I took the igniter bracket, reshaped it a little bit and used it to mount a Wilwood manual proportioning valve off the side of the charcoal canister. The LSPV got deleted at the same time and I replaced the 80 ABS master with a larger 1” bore T100 Non-ABS master...which is perfectly sized for my 4Runner front calipers.

Note to others deleting ABS and LSPV, don’t try to use the short M10x1.0 fittings that are on the output side of the ABS pump...they do not seal in the Toyota T fittings despite the same thread size and pitch. You have to use the longer fittings that are on all other lines besides the ABS.
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I also tossed in a pair of Rosen visors this afternoon, they are seriously nice!!!

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