first 3f is about to be it.
What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
- Start date
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Desmog with Jim C kit, Carb and Dist recurve, new TRE, Sleeves and stab links (thanks @cruiseroutfit ). A quick rinse with Salt B Gone and back to a happy customer. H55 is a game changer for the HWY miles this truck eats up
Endless trips to the parts counter.
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Always one more part for the project.
Dude, same.
My wallet groans and the parts counter guys roll their eyes when I walk in the door.
Here comes our best customer ....
If you find the brakes to be a bit too touchy and easy to lock up with the new booster, an 80 series master cylinder will make them feel perfect. Great upgrade either way!
Totally agree, i have the master cylinder as backup so far the combo works very well. I might just do the swap for trial purpose and see.
Great weekend taking the pup out while getting in some offroad time.
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During the bulk of our 40 resto, we were the top walk in customer for multiple years.
TexasLandCruiser
SILVER Star
Well I trimmed some electrical cables on charged system, tidy up the breakers. Changed the oil after summer travel and picked up some East Texas Cedar wood. I bet I have access to 1000 cords of cut 6x6 cedar and pine. Use for skids and marsh mats on oil pipeline jobs. The store sells 7.99 for 7 sticks, I can fill up the bed for free. I’m still giddy about it.
Cleaned up my 80lbs magnets that I attached the transmission pan and bottom of oil filter. I sanded the metal of the magnets housing then simulated yellow zinc with “zinc coat Duplicolor spray, looks close. The 4R is getting the leftover 5w30 from cruiser oil change. I can seem to get the 4R to fail so keep feeding her oil.
Cleaned up my 80lbs magnets that I attached the transmission pan and bottom of oil filter. I sanded the metal of the magnets housing then simulated yellow zinc with “zinc coat Duplicolor spray, looks close. The 4R is getting the leftover 5w30 from cruiser oil change. I can seem to get the 4R to fail so keep feeding her oil.
is this an easy job? also what's the part no for the 80's servo?
Very straight forward, remove the nuts holding the master cylinder.
Remove the 4 bolts from inside the car holding the servo, remove the connecting rod to the brake pedal.
Swap and re-attach. Much simpler than i had initially thought.
Thankfully they are exactly the same fitting sizes, however the 80 servo is both bigger and thicker not by much though.
If you do change the master cylinder then yah brake bleeding, fluids etc. will need to be addressed.
I will need to dig for the part no. as i bought it about 2 years ago for my previous 80 rig.
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Classifieds score. I always love finding PO trash/treasure…huge upgrade for drivability and comfort.
I started tearing down the engine harness to make it standalone. I've got all but one connector figured out. It's a 2 wire connector up near the MAF connector with a 2 pin connector. One pin is black and ground. One pin looks to be light blue (although all pinouts show it to be dark blue) and goes to pin P of the C100 connector. Apparently it's for an AC low pressure sensor. Donor is a 2005 H2. Does this sensor need to be in the harness/ system for a functioning AC?
Which pcm are you using? Red green or blue green? Does your PCM have the IAC Driver chip on it?
You can just run it to ground to trick it into thinking that you have a low pressure switch, and then use the toyota low pressure switch to control the AC Compressor clutch function. It should be going to pin 55 on the green connector. Only do this is you wire the AC like i explain below. If you are just wanting to run it off a relay and have the fan come on when you press the button and not controlled by the PCM then youll want it to go to your low pressure switch in the evaporator.
That pin 55 will be looking for a ground though so if you want your AC to work youll need it seeing ground or it wont send power to the AC Compressor clutch no matter how you wire it up
you also want to make sure you still have pin 80 on green, pin 45 on blue, and pin 14 on green. these 3 should go to your high pressure transducer. Youll need that if you want to run the AC and fans through your pcm instead of hacking up your AC Amplifier. (running your ac through your AC Amplifier isnt really smart because your 60 series doesnt have a high pressure switch in the system at all. If you build up too much pressure from a fan malfunction or something.... it will shoot freon out of the back of your compressor instead of turning the compressor off).
If you want the PCM To control your AC and fans, for the low pressure switch youll actually use pin 43 on the green connector (AC Compressor clutch relay control) and then use a relay with the toyota low pressure switch to control the low pressure function.
Clear as mud huh?
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How hot of a climate are you in? I used those thermal Circuit breakers under the hood of my truck when i still had the 2f and the heat under the hood in the dead middle of summer plus the heat from the engine would pop them. Mine was mounted on the driver side fender liner, but I had it connected to my second battery running my fridge and was wondering why my fridge wouldnt stay on. 100+ degree day in the summer of arkansas, slow wheeling, and headers kept it popped. I moved the CB and i still use it, but its mounted on the otherside of the core support and doesnt pop anymore from the engine heat. Even wheeling in moab didnt pop it and my drinks stayed nice and cold.
