What did you do on your 70 series today? (27 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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- www.snlandcruisers.com
None it is a bolt in job. RHD or LHD makes no difference.
If you are familiar with 80-series, this is the same as upgrading to the 105-series box. Better even because it isn’t just gaining you a bigger sector shaft it is gaining you a larger valve as well.
And before people start second guessing me or more questions, the pump is the same on a 1990 1HZ or a 2023 1HZ. Same for the high pressure line.
Cheers
- Joined
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More pics
There are two pitman arms available for the 79 box, you want the drop pitman arm. It matches the older style perfectly.
I don’t think the 79 uses the old style of tie rod drag link ends but the pin/ball for the pitman arm fits the new 79 pitman arm perfectly.
Massive increase in sector shaft size, beefy compared to stock.
79 box mounted.
Cheers
There are two pitman arms available for the 79 box, you want the drop pitman arm. It matches the older style perfectly.
I don’t think the 79 uses the old style of tie rod drag link ends but the pin/ball for the pitman arm fits the new 79 pitman arm perfectly.
Massive increase in sector shaft size, beefy compared to stock.
79 box mounted.
Cheers
Very nice stuff. Can you share the P/Ns for the 79 box and drop pitman arm?
It definitely looks like it was done with a drift/punch or a drill bit.what the hell is with that abortion... looks deliberate too, none of them overlap so it wasnt debis getting slammed up into the head by the piston
just....why
Juan, it’s definitely not pitting. I can’t wait to hear what the machine shop says tomorrow.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
And yet... Still functional, under the Christmas cookie batter?
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- 12,411
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- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Here is some more info for you 70-series guys.
I am doing a full steering system rebuild on an early 90’s JDM 77-series. The owner is taking the Cruiser this winter to Central America and we had originally planned to simply rebuild his stock box, the high/low pressure lines and replace the pump with a new unit. That was before he told me he was taking it to CA. We have used RedHead a fair amount for steering box rebuilds, however we have had a few fail. I am not wanting to get into those details in this post, rather just state that a new OEM box simply cannot be beat and the older style 70-series boxes don’t seem to be available to me anymore after extensive searching.
Once the owner told me he was going to CA in the 77, I felt only a new box will do! I have done that trip multiple times and zero vehicle issues makes it most enjoyable.
I have a 2018 GR79 box here and a 1991 PZJ70 box as well. I took both out some time ago and verified mounting hole spread was the same. I hadn’t checked anything else other than comparing sector shafts. I knew we could do this swap I just didn’t know if we would need to modify the lower column shaft or something else.
Anyways, here is a tip for any of you with a RHD and changing out your high/low pressure line assembly. Separate the two lines in this picture for both removal and install, it makes it 100x easier! Trying to fish it in/out without doing this will give you much grief, it’s easy cheesy if you separate them. LHD is a bit different in that it is the standard Toyota “paper clip” “cooler” and not separable like RHD.
So there you go guys, you can do basically the same swap 80-series guys are doing to their steering boxes. IE, upgrading to a newer model that is still available, gaining the benefits Toyota did to the boxes and it is bolt in job.
ALL parts are still available from p/s pump to high/low pressure lines to the upgraded box and pitman arm. You can even still get everything to rebuild the upper and lower column and let me tell you, rebuilding all these parts give excellent results that you can actually feel the difference every time you drive it. Not to mention you will be good to go for the next 20-30yrs!
Cheers
I am doing a full steering system rebuild on an early 90’s JDM 77-series. The owner is taking the Cruiser this winter to Central America and we had originally planned to simply rebuild his stock box, the high/low pressure lines and replace the pump with a new unit. That was before he told me he was taking it to CA. We have used RedHead a fair amount for steering box rebuilds, however we have had a few fail. I am not wanting to get into those details in this post, rather just state that a new OEM box simply cannot be beat and the older style 70-series boxes don’t seem to be available to me anymore after extensive searching.
Once the owner told me he was going to CA in the 77, I felt only a new box will do! I have done that trip multiple times and zero vehicle issues makes it most enjoyable.
I have a 2018 GR79 box here and a 1991 PZJ70 box as well. I took both out some time ago and verified mounting hole spread was the same. I hadn’t checked anything else other than comparing sector shafts. I knew we could do this swap I just didn’t know if we would need to modify the lower column shaft or something else.
Anyways, here is a tip for any of you with a RHD and changing out your high/low pressure line assembly. Separate the two lines in this picture for both removal and install, it makes it 100x easier! Trying to fish it in/out without doing this will give you much grief, it’s easy cheesy if you separate them. LHD is a bit different in that it is the standard Toyota “paper clip” “cooler” and not separable like RHD.
So there you go guys, you can do basically the same swap 80-series guys are doing to their steering boxes. IE, upgrading to a newer model that is still available, gaining the benefits Toyota did to the boxes and it is bolt in job.
ALL parts are still available from p/s pump to high/low pressure lines to the upgraded box and pitman arm. You can even still get everything to rebuild the upper and lower column and let me tell you, rebuilding all these parts give excellent results that you can actually feel the difference every time you drive it. Not to mention you will be good to go for the next 20-30yrs!
Cheers
Today I replaced the dash/knee speakers. Seemed like it would be tough to get them but it was pretty easy. For future people:
Driverside:
- Remove gauge cluster hood (some screws, 1 plug for the air filter light)
- Unscrew the gauge cluster and disconnect the speedo from the back, you don't actually need to take the plugs out of the back, just move the cluster to the side
- There is one screw holding in the ductwork for the climate vent, take that out at the top. Then pull the duct out.
- Now there should be good room to get a flexy 10mm socket on the bottom nut of the speaker and remove it.
- Remove the top nut on the speaker
- Remove the female blade terminals from the speaker
- Remove the speaker
- Transfer the mounting tab to your new speaker
- Bend in the side tabs on your new speaker if needed
- You might need to widen the bottom tab on the new speaker to fit around the stud
- Put the new speaker in, you might bend the top and bottom tabs a bit for a nice fit
- Connect female blade terminals
- Screw on nuts
- Put duct and screw back in
- Put gauge cluster back (connect speedo)
- Put gauge cluster hood back (connect air filter light)
Passenger side:
- Remove glove box tub (screws)
- Remove glove box door
- Remove cover over climate vent on the dash (2 screws)
- Same as on the driverside, take the top screw out holding the ductwork in
- Remove the duct
- Remove and replace the speaker in the same way as the driverside
- Put duct and screw back in
- Put glovebox door back on
- Put glovebox tub back in
- Put climate vent back on
I used 4" Kicker 46CSC44. The blade terminals go right on, no wiring needed, just had to bend the side tabs in to make them work.
I also replaced some random parts: DS grab handle 7461090K00A0, relay 90987-02006 (was sticky in the cold, lights wouldn't turn off quickly), grille emblem 75311-60090, battery hold down 74405-60030, ash tray 7410260060
Driverside:
- Remove gauge cluster hood (some screws, 1 plug for the air filter light)
- Unscrew the gauge cluster and disconnect the speedo from the back, you don't actually need to take the plugs out of the back, just move the cluster to the side
- There is one screw holding in the ductwork for the climate vent, take that out at the top. Then pull the duct out.
- Now there should be good room to get a flexy 10mm socket on the bottom nut of the speaker and remove it.
- Remove the top nut on the speaker
- Remove the female blade terminals from the speaker
- Remove the speaker
- Transfer the mounting tab to your new speaker
- Bend in the side tabs on your new speaker if needed
- You might need to widen the bottom tab on the new speaker to fit around the stud
- Put the new speaker in, you might bend the top and bottom tabs a bit for a nice fit
- Connect female blade terminals
- Screw on nuts
- Put duct and screw back in
- Put gauge cluster back (connect speedo)
- Put gauge cluster hood back (connect air filter light)
Passenger side:
- Remove glove box tub (screws)
- Remove glove box door
- Remove cover over climate vent on the dash (2 screws)
- Same as on the driverside, take the top screw out holding the ductwork in
- Remove the duct
- Remove and replace the speaker in the same way as the driverside
- Put duct and screw back in
- Put glovebox door back on
- Put glovebox tub back in
- Put climate vent back on
I used 4" Kicker 46CSC44. The blade terminals go right on, no wiring needed, just had to bend the side tabs in to make them work.
I also replaced some random parts: DS grab handle 7461090K00A0, relay 90987-02006 (was sticky in the cold, lights wouldn't turn off quickly), grille emblem 75311-60090, battery hold down 74405-60030, ash tray 7410260060
Basically a 2024 model now
grubscrew
SILVER Star
Renew steering UJ and make up chassis plate to fill the “hole”…….oh and vacuuming the inner chassis of rust and mud.
I’m not sure at what point the chassis needs new plates, but in view that the original metal is 3.5mm thick I’m thinking if it’s less than 2 mm it gets cut out. Thankfully there is only one more dodgy area to do.
New plate steel is 4 mm.
I’m not sure at what point the chassis needs new plates, but in view that the original metal is 3.5mm thick I’m thinking if it’s less than 2 mm it gets cut out. Thankfully there is only one more dodgy area to do.
New plate steel is 4 mm.
Rolled up my sleeves and tackled the clutch and brakes at the same time! flipoff2
If you stick your nose down in the footwell and close your eyes it smells like new tires day (but its WAY cheaper)
flipoff2If you stick your nose down in the footwell and close your eyes it smells like new tires day (but its WAY cheaper)
Canopy road along Florida’s gulf coast. 
Found these beauties at the wrecker today! Low hanging fruit and a perfect fit. 5 Canadian pesos so roughly 3.50 USD
Cheaper than chips. Good findFound these beauties at the wrecker today! Low hanging fruit and a perfect fit. 5 Canadian pesos so roughly 3.50 USD
View attachment 3793739
My truck was a really basic version, so it didn’t have much from the factory, but I scored an altimeter/incinometer off eBay, and it recently arrived slightly out of whack, which I kind of expected to be honest.
A little bit like working on a watch! Gears, clock springs, weights, and little machine screws.
It has adjusters on the face, but they have a limited range, and even with the adjuster maxed, the longitudinal one was obviously not right. When moving it manually against the built in weight, it would snap all the way to the stop really quickly at one end of the adjustment range, and snap all the way to the same stop slightly-less quickly at the other end of the range of adjustment. Meanwhile the indicator on the face was upside down.
The longitudinal indicator was one full turn out of adjustment on the clock spring. I have no idea how it got that way unless someone was in there before. There's a stop I just cannot fathom the wheel slipping past. I partially disassembled it, moved it past the stop, and got it back together. The stop was a long clear plastic arm that looked potentially brittle but I flexed it gently with breath held, and 40-year-old plastic was kind to me and didn't break. One of the knobs was missing hardware; it was glued on, thankfully not very well so I got it off easily…off to McMaster-Carr to shop M1.6x0.3 machine screws! I’m not sure how well I will fare at getting the cigarette smoke (?) or other mystery yellowish-grey residue off everything, though.
A little bit like working on a watch! Gears, clock springs, weights, and little machine screws.
It has adjusters on the face, but they have a limited range, and even with the adjuster maxed, the longitudinal one was obviously not right. When moving it manually against the built in weight, it would snap all the way to the stop really quickly at one end of the adjustment range, and snap all the way to the same stop slightly-less quickly at the other end of the range of adjustment. Meanwhile the indicator on the face was upside down.
The longitudinal indicator was one full turn out of adjustment on the clock spring. I have no idea how it got that way unless someone was in there before. There's a stop I just cannot fathom the wheel slipping past. I partially disassembled it, moved it past the stop, and got it back together. The stop was a long clear plastic arm that looked potentially brittle but I flexed it gently with breath held, and 40-year-old plastic was kind to me and didn't break. One of the knobs was missing hardware; it was glued on, thankfully not very well so I got it off easily…off to McMaster-Carr to shop M1.6x0.3 machine screws! I’m not sure how well I will fare at getting the cigarette smoke (?) or other mystery yellowish-grey residue off everything, though.
