What did you do on your 70 series today? (29 Viewers)

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Hi Clint, how did you determine your 4wd computer was shot? my LJ is doing some weird s***, i have manual hubs but it is only going into 4wd when the hud switch is on and the 4wd is off, and i have no 4wd low at all, as soon as i put it in low the light flashes then goes off.

if you have any insight please pass it on.

thanks
Sounds like part of your problem may be reversed vacuum lines on the transfer case; not sure about the 4-low unless the computer disengages the transfer case if it senses the hub lock is off.
 
Hi Clint, how did you determine your 4wd computer was shot? my LJ is doing some weird s***, i have manual hubs but it is only going into 4wd when the hud switch is on and the 4wd is off, and i have no 4wd low at all, as soon as i put it in low the light flashes then goes off.

if you have any insight please pass it on.

thanks

Hi Pete, I just put my multimeter (or use a test light) on the connector pins going to the vacuum solenoids that supply the diaphagm on the transfer case. The 4wd one got 12V with the H4 button in & 0V in 2wd so all good, but the 2wd one would not always get a 12V signal when the H4 button was switched off. The vac solenoids are high on the firewall, follow the hoses up from the t-case. Applying 12V direct to the solenoid shifted it every time, so it wasn't a fault with that - which can happen. I also checked the H4 switch was doing what it should electrically but that was OK.

I also had electric hubs that were replaced with manual, so before I rewired I always had to hit the hub lock button before it would engage H4.

Another useful troubleshooting method is to apply vacuum directly to either side of the t-case diaphragm by swapping hoses to bypass the solenoids, do this to check that the transfer case end of things is working correctly first. With the engine running, transmission in N, handbrake on & hubs out, you can just reach under the truck & try spinning the front driveshaft to check 4wd shifting. It should spin by hand in 2wd, & lock up in H4 as it is then connected to the rear drivetrain.

Cheers
Clint
 
Ordered a set of seats for the cube, impatiently waiting for their delivery. Of course got them from Toby, armrest for the drivers seat

Seat:VF:Vario F, MB Rodeo/S111 W/heat, W/Net
MB Rodeo Fabric Cushions, S111 Black leatherette Bolsters. Vario includes: Adjustable length lower cushion, adjustable upper bolsters, and adjustable 4 way lumbar support.
Vario F , Rodeo Cushion upgrade , Heat $, Map net

r0tk84o3mvmh52guefbr.jpg
 
I swapped the rear OME springs on my LHD BJ73 today, because it was leaning...
I had the A-spring on the right side as I thought 'driver side on' on a Japanese truck, with Australian springs would be right, as both countries are RHD. WRONG! The OME rear A-spring goes to the driver side WHEREVER THAT IS. Left on a LHD.
No lean an more 😀
(I call it learning by doing).
 
Got the final rendering of this today which is pretty cool......
CRUISER IG.jpeg

Used this pic....minus the dirt.

20210917_145924.jpeg
 
Sounds like part of your problem may be reversed vacuum lines on the transfer case; not sure about the 4-low unless the computer disengages the transfer case if it senses the hub lock is off.
H
Hi Pete, I just put my multimeter (or use a test light) on the connector pins going to the vacuum solenoids that supply the diaphagm on the transfer case. The 4wd one got 12V with the H4 button in & 0V in 2wd so all good, but the 2wd one would not always get a 12V signal when the H4 button was switched off. The vac solenoids are high on the firewall, follow the hoses up from the t-case. Applying 12V direct to the solenoid shifted it every time, so it wasn't a fault with that - which can happen. I also checked the H4 switch was doing what it should electrically but that was OK.

I also had electric hubs that were replaced with manual, so before I rewired I always had to hit the hub lock button before it would engage H4.

Another useful troubleshooting method is to apply vacuum directly to either side of the t-case diaphragm by swapping hoses to bypass the solenoids, do this to check that the transfer case end of things is working correctly first. With the engine running, transmission in N, handbrake on & hubs out, you can just reach under the truck & try spinning the front driveshaft to check 4wd shifting. It should spin by hand in 2wd, & lock up in H4 as it is then connected to the rear drivetrain.

Cheers
Clint
Hi Clint, I got it figured out, the hoses were reversed at the valves, a quick swap and all is good.

Thanks
 
Installed the seats, was a bit of a chore for the mounts but turned out well. Need to remove them and paint/weld but very happy with them. Going to drive it around today to see if they were worth the bucks before taking it back down

View attachment 2804619

View attachment 2804620
Just got back from a 2 hour round trip in this thing and the seats are great. First time I’ve driven this thing in 5 years without leaning. They are a bit stiff but every German Car I’ve ever owned started this way and broke in over a little time. So far very pleased .

If you’ve been on the fence about replacing your worn out seats I highly suggest it, it’sa whole new truck now
 
Cutting two “feet” off each, modifying the other two and welding two feet on each to match the floor. I also had to modify the base to seat holes as they would not align either
Do you have the suspension seat bases? I couldn't tell from your pictures.
 
Do you have the suspension seat bases? I couldn't tell from your pictures.

I am also curious about this too. Seat foam for the ZX seat is long gone so I would entertain the possibility of sheel-mans starting with the drivers side but there isn't much about them being mounted on suspension bases.
 

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