What did you do on your 70 series today? (8 Viewers)

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I bought mine with a lower hose heater since the truck used to live in Alberta Canada.
I only removed it after it rubbed through an ac line and allowed all my freon to blow out.

it was a cool little gizmo but not needed here below the Mason Dixon line.
 
I had an extra AEM intake filter for another project laying around and got the idea to test fit it to the 74.

Initial thoughts:

I didn’t think the stock air box took up so much room until it’s gone! I think I’m going to make a box connected to the snorkel and try to run this setup to free up space.

The throttle response is better and the ability to redline is notably easier.

The turbo sounds amazing.
F01AB7F6-8E88-443E-B3C3-CD0721C1817A.jpeg


Oh, and I also replaced my engine mounts. They were overdue. What a difference that made as well! That was a pain in the a$$

7A9A2A7D-2230-47F7-A031-A2F07AB2B179.jpeg
 
I recently started restoring my dads old 1988 Hj75 ute to its former glory. The body is extremely rusty, and currently doesn’t have a roof on it, but the engine is in surprisingly good condition, (nothing can kill an old 2H engine). Yesterday and today i got to work stripping the interior and cleaning it all up, ready to weld in new floorpans as the current ones are about 90% holes, due to rust. I also managed to fit (with quite the struggle) a drivers seat off an old 79 series mining vehicle from my dads work. I also managed to find a brand new windscreen surround yesterday in my local area, as my current one is fully rusted out, and I have a set of brand new floor pans on the way. My next project is to finish off the roof, as I have been patching up the few rust holes in that, and then chuck it back onto the vehicle. Then, once the floorpans arrive, i am going to cut out the old rust, and have my dads mate who is a professional welder to chuck them in. I will put some more pictures of the seat and roof tomorrow morning.

F6F8D25B-071A-4873-B664-0FBD1756E247.jpeg


FEF8A674-2D8C-4922-B599-079A570CEAA0.jpeg


B98F8F9D-EB08-4C1C-92E5-6FB2639B18F6.jpeg


8CE286A4-CF08-4133-A621-CDCB45E91AC9.jpeg
 
saltycoconuts said:
I had an extra AEM intake filter for another project laying around and got the idea to test fit it to the 74.

Initial thoughts:

I didn’t think the stock air box took up so much room until it’s gone! I think I’m going to make a box connected to the snorkel and try to run this setup to free up space.

The throttle response is better and the ability to redline is notably easier.

The turbo sounds amazing.
View attachment 2554671

Oh, and I also replaced my engine mounts. They were overdue. What a difference that made as well! That was a pain in the a$$

View attachment 2554674
Click to expand...
Just looking at the mounts on my BJ73 I can tell they are very strong durable and solid and also guaranteed to transfer all engine vibration to the chassis.
saltycoconuts said:
I had an extra AEM intake filter for another project laying around and got the idea to test fit it to the 74.

Initial thoughts:

I didn’t think the stock air box took up so much room until it’s gone! I think I’m going to make a box connected to the snorkel and try to run this setup to free up space.

The throttle response is better and the ability to redline is notably easier.

The turbo sounds amazing.
View attachment 2554671

Oh, and I also replaced my engine mounts. They were overdue. What a difference that made as well! That was a pain in the a$$

View attachment 2554674
Click to expand...
Were yours broken, or just old hard rubber? I might consider this at some point if it really makes it that much more pleasant riding in the vehicle.
 
KevinThe75 said:
I recently started restoring my dads old 1988 Hj75 ute to its former glory. The body is extremely rusty, and currently doesn’t have a roof on it, but the engine is in surprisingly good condition, (nothing can kill an old 2H engine). Yesterday and today i got to work stripping the interior and cleaning it all up, ready to weld in new floorpans as the current ones are about 90% holes, due to rust. I also managed to fit (with quite the struggle) a drivers seat off an old 79 series mining vehicle from my dads work. I also managed to find a brand new windscreen surround yesterday in my local area, as my current one is fully rusted out, and I have a set of brand new floor pans on the way. My next project is to finish off the roof, as I have been patching up the few rust holes in that, and then chuck it back onto the vehicle. Then, once the floorpans arrive, i am going to cut out the old rust, and have my dads mate who is a professional welder to chuck them in. I will put some more pictures of the seat and roof tomorrow morning.

View attachment 2554804

View attachment 2554805

View attachment 2554806

View attachment 2554807
Click to expand...
I cannot say enough good about using a rust converter like corroseal or por15 on rust that you cannot reach to remove or cut out. Before you repair, patch and weld everything you might look to partsouq to see how much new body panels are. IE New Rocker panels are actually fairly inexpensive at $51 for a HJ75. Inner panels are listed at $26, but not available(maybe you can find them elsewhere).
 
badusmaximus said:
Like I said it's goals, but right now I need a solution and I'm not fortunate enough to have a thousand extra bucks laying around. This solution cost me all of $55 (ok like $150 including the spare hoses) and it's 100% reversible. After the hellscape of 2020 I finally have a real job again so this financial situation is just temporary. Just thought I'd put out a solution for those who aren't rolling in it.

I realize that there will be those who say if you can't afford to pay then you shouldn't be able to play. Y'all can get lost- I'm on a budget.

We're in a very similar climate in Santa Fe and Flagstaff. I appreciate the specs tho. This is primarily for a commute right now but the capacity of the onboard units isn't lost on me. I'm going to see how this works and hopefully make it thru the rest of the winter without any issues. Is your Webasto 12v running through a converter? I assume your Troopy is 24v.
Click to expand...

OZ spec is 12v on the Troopies.
 
saltycoconuts said:
I had an extra AEM intake filter for another project laying around and got the idea to test fit it to the 74.

Initial thoughts:

I didn’t think the stock air box took up so much room until it’s gone! I think I’m going to make a box connected to the snorkel and try to run this setup to free up space.

The throttle response is better and the ability to redline is notably easier.

The turbo sounds amazing.
View attachment 2554671

Oh, and I also replaced my engine mounts. They were overdue. What a difference that made as well! That was a pain in the a$$

View attachment 2554674
Click to expand...

yeah when i was testing the snorkel tops and the intake, temporarily running wide open it was way more responsive and would easily boost 15psi like nothing. Mash it down and it was instantly boosting up.
Sounded sweet.
 
FJBen said:
yeah when i was testing the snorkel tops and the intake, temporarily running wide open it was way more responsive and would easily boost 15psi like nothing. Mash it down and it was instantly boosting up.
Sounded sweet.
Click to expand...
I thoroughly enjoy it. Sooner than later I do wanna try and swap in a TD04-13t turbo but I’ll probably do that closer to when I’m ready to do a 3in exhaust. I do have a few things I want to do first before I tackle exhaust, turbo, and intercooling.
 
robmobile73 said:
I cannot say enough good about using a rust converter like corroseal or por15 on rust that you cannot reach to remove or cut out. Before you repair, patch and weld everything you might look to partsouq to see how much new body panels are. IE New Rocker panels are actually fairly inexpensive at $51 for a HJ75. Inner panels are listed at $26, but not available(maybe you can find them elsewhere).
Click to expand...
Yeah, i’m currently planning on just going to town with some rust converter on anything i can see and not either replace or weld in new metal. And the body is actually not in too bad of condition, with just two small rust holes on either side of the bonnet, which I think is not worth a whole new set of panels, bjt rather to either repair it myself or get it professionally done when i give it to the painters.
Cheers for the advice!
 
Finally had a chance to finish the sound insulation on the walls and ceiling of the troopy. Since the metal was clean and freshly painted it wasn't that challenging... Made a huge difference. Once the floor is done im sure its going to be real quiet. Also got started on the closed cell foam panels.




 
MES said:
Finally had a chance to finish the sound insulation on the walls and ceiling of the troopy. Since the metal was clean and freshly painted it wasn't that challenging... Made a huge difference. Once the floor is done im sure its going to be real quiet. Also got started on the closed cell foam panels.




Click to expand...

Similar project here. In front floor, installation was slower due to complex shapes of the surface. The echo is gone 👍 Doors are still under deadening.

20210118_101033.jpg


20210118_101224.jpg


20210118_101527.jpg


20210118_103133.jpg
 
Honger said:
You and @MES inspiring me to get off my butt and finish my soundproofing! Beautiful rig man. Question for you... what did you use for new roofliner? Is that the OEM panels?
Click to expand...
It's Superflex automotive carpet. I bought it here in Finland, but similar to this one I think:
www.yourautotrim.com

80

80
www.yourautotrim.com www.yourautotrim.com

Good stuff for this purpose. Very stretchy and easy to attach with spray glue.

Edit: That underdash deadening mat is OEM

20210118_232626.jpg


20210118_232750.jpg
 
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My fusible link has needed replacement for quite some time, and I'm surprised the ignition circuit was actually working. The old fusible link was original to the truck, and for the 3B that use to be there

fusible link 02.jpg



fusible link 04.jpg


I couldn't find these older style fusible links to match my wiring harness, so I got a couple of NOS for a 1HZ (PN 90982-08236) that @coldtaco had (Thanks, it's gonna work!)

fusible link 05.jpg


and with a few extra bits set about to modify my wiring to suit the new fusible link. I used a junction block from an US spec 80 series as it was available locally and cheap. The correct part number for the 1HZ junction block is 82670-90k01 and will be used when I place a larger order from overseas. The white nylon connector is a 7.8 mm single pin latching connector available from Connectors - Vintage Connections - http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Connectors
Thanks @gilmorneau for the source, they have some cool stuff!

fusible link 06.jpg


Continued in the engine bay...
 
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