Putting it all together with new terminals and junction block. Also re-terminated the battery end of the starter cable.
Continued...
Continued...
What did you do on your 70 series today? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Long story short... did some wiring, replaced fusible link and added mil-spec battery post terminals.
Went from this
to this
Went from this
to this
New A/W Intercooler is paying dividends. On a relatively flat section of road at 60 mph (GPS) I’m seeing temps in the 325-350 degree (C) range and in constant rolling hills (a common feature in S.W. Georgia) temps have not exceeded 400 degrees (C).
Hopefully these temps will keep my 1HZ happy for a long time.
Hopefully these temps will keep my 1HZ happy for a long time.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Thanks for posting the link to the Vintage Connections site.
Did the red battery terminal cover come from there?
I really like the stuff on offer at Vintage Connections and the pricing is excellent, but the battery terminal covers did not come from there. I got those from Amazon
Amazon product ASIN B01068FSJI
The mil-spec battery post terminals came from genuinedealz
Custom Cable and Wire | Marine Grade Cable and Wire Products
Custom Cable and Wire is home to custom made battery cables and the best quality US made UL 1426 marine grade wire products for your boat, rv, trailer, auto, solar, atv needs. Next day shipping available on most orders.s
www.genuinedealz.com
Genuinedealz has excellent prices for marine grade wire, terminals, and other electrical supplies with free shipping in the US. He will build custom cables with the terminals of your choosing, and heat shrink tubing for little more than the cost of materials. It's a nice site to check out if you have some wiring upgrades in your future.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Since I added more live fuses to my OEM fusebox I have that style of battery terminal with a variety of supply wires coming off it.
Those rubber covers might fit with some surgery.
Thanks!
Those rubber covers might fit with some surgery.
Thanks!
Where did you get the fusible link? Looking for one for my son's BJ75.
Best regards from Germany.Went up to High Steel Bridge in Olympic National Forest...highest steel arch railroad bridge constructed in US...now converted to Forest Road use.
High Steel Bridge - HighestBridges.com
www.highestbridges.com
There is a similar bridge next to my place: Müngstener Brücke, Germany s largest steel railroad bridge, dating from 1897. Still in use. Located near Solingen.
Müngsten Bridge - Wikipedia
Looks like that fusible link is available from overseas sites, so shipping is spendy...90982-08236 on Ebay for $24 + $15 shipping is the best deal I saw.
I was able to get two of these from another mud member that did not need them. As @Owyhee Jackass mentioned these are available over seas sites at a price. There is a newer 1Hz fusible link but it has one connector that would be difficult/pricey to mate up to. There is one here:
For Sale - Assortment of fuseable links-AK - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/assortment-of-fuseable-links-ak.1231720/#post-13545500
My limited understanding of fusible link wiring is that it is rated according to color. With the fusible link (FL) I used the blue FL wire mates to the glow circuit (the single pole junction box on a BJ75 with a black wire on the harness side,) the black FL wire mates to the large white wire (ignition circuit BJ75 harness), and the green FL wire mates to the red wire (head light circuit BJ75 harness). It would be very easy to make one of these to match up with your sons BJ75. You need the correct fusible link wiring (blue, black and green), some ring connectors and a 2 pin 7.8 mm connector available from @Coolerman (Shoot, he could probably knock these out in his sleep)
Cruiser Wiring - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm
Now that I have a little more knowledge, I would probably just make my own. Hopefully that helps you, if not send me a PM and I can explain in more detail.
Out and about...
Clean!
Replaced the door latch on the passenger door of the BJ73 and readjusted the "latch bail"? Tomorrow morning I'll have to remember to tell the lady's at my son's school's car line that they don't have to slam the door to anymore........Awaiting my fuel injector seats and washers before installing new injectors. BJ73 is actually running well after a bottle of "diesel clean" in the tank. Manual glow plug solonoid switch held on for 10 seconds and she's starting right up at 25 degrees F. Albeit I'm filling the yard with smoke the first 30 seconds. This morning before the drive to school my little boy was running around the yard in the cloud of smoke playing "airplane flying in the clouds". At least someone likes the clould of smoke. Double clutching 1-2 and 2-3 till the tranny's warm helps, but all is well.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I soldered in some on my own to replace the originals. I went by conductor diameter, measuring a stripped but not corroded section of each OEM link. I bought equivalent links at NAPA and online and soldered them in. I am hoping they last as long as the originals.
A friend shot some medium format film on our New Year's trip. Those who shoot film will recognize the beautiful tones Ektar renders on 120 film.
He's also got a well-equipped Xterra. We're planning some canyon country trips this year and I can't wait.
He's also got a well-equipped Xterra. We're planning some canyon country trips this year and I can't wait.
It's Superflex automotive carpet. I bought it here in Finland, but similar to this one I think:
Good stuff for this purpose. Very stretchy and easy to attach with spray glue.
Edit: That underdash deadening mat is OEM
The OD and tan interior are mind-blowingly hot. Wow.
This is all extremely helpful and perfectly timed info! Thank you
This is the current set up for the troopy's fusible link...Hey, it works at least
This is all extremely helpful and perfectly timed info! Thank you
View attachment 2559339
Hey, it works at least
Looks like yours is in need of a serious make over. I sent @Shyrock a PM with some more info... if you need further details shoot me a PM
Drove down the coast, ate some tacos.
Finally started the interior project on the Troopy. Ripped everything out, found zero cancer rust, and only some surface oxidation in the cargo area. Sanded it all down with 220, cleaned it off, decreased it, put on Coroseal to convert it, scuffed it up with more 220, cleaned it, and then got through the first can of Master Series as it was getting dark. Unfortunately, there's Dynamat under the driver and passenger footwell, so I have to remove that to Master Series the entire floor.
Our plan is to redo the seals on the slider windows and while I'm doing that, I'll mask off the interior and respray the cargo walls since they're pretty banged up. After that's done, I'm running mass loaded vinyl throughout the flooring, wool insulation in the body panels we're not going to use for storage, and then putting in new OEM mats. It's going to make a huge difference.
Our plan is to redo the seals on the slider windows and while I'm doing that, I'll mask off the interior and respray the cargo walls since they're pretty banged up. After that's done, I'm running mass loaded vinyl throughout the flooring, wool insulation in the body panels we're not going to use for storage, and then putting in new OEM mats. It's going to make a huge difference.
