What did you do on your 70 series today? (31 Viewers)

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One of the things I really missed on the FJ73 I had other than the factory soft top set up was the locking glove box door. The PZJ70 I had and the current HZJ77 I have now don’t have this feature which makes me think it is not a JDM thing.

I decided to swap the current non locking door with a locking one.

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Before

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After

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One of the things I really missed on the FJ73 I had other than the factory soft top set up was the locking glove box door. The PZJ70 I had and the current HZJ77 I have now don’t have this feature which makes me think it is not a JDM thing.

I decided to swap the current non locking door with a locking one.

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Before

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After

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That's a nice upgrade/mod that I want to do. I'm guessing it can be keyed to match the ignition. Would that be correct, or is it a very different size key?
 
That's a nice upgrade/mod that I want to do. I'm guessing it can be keyed to match the ignition. Would that be correct, or is it a very different size key?

On the FJ73 I had, the ignition key would also unlock the glove box door.

Not sure how the factory does it but this time I choose to keep it separate key for the glove box lock. Key is the same style.
 
Got the ARB on. Stripping the frame ends back to bare metal, facing one of the outside surfaces with 80 grit, and repainting with two coats of POR 15 was definitely worth the extra 12 hours of prep time. Bumper slid right on no problems. Please forgive my crass painting job and lack of masking. With the raptor liner body I'm not too worried about looks.
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Got my LED's installed/aligned (after the pic). They look comically small but I had these on my Tacoma which is an objectively faster vehicle and never felt like visibility sucked. Also started looking at recovery points. I have a stock tow hook which I can bolt onto the bottom of the bumper. Might be a good temporary measure until I can get a real setup and a winch.
 
Spent an afternoon planning, modeling, and cataloging everything for the rear build-out. Planning on using two Penn Elcom panels for the flooring of the cargo floor, bolted to the existing holes. Then I designed a #25 80/20 cabinet for the passenger side using nylon drawer slides (My Landshark drawers in the 80 used these and they're great) for our "kitchen" wares, a piano hinge for the center section over the wheel well for storing large bulky items, and the last bay will house the National Luna battery, solar controller and pure sine wave inverter. The side panels will be 1/4" inlay within the 80/20. That's the fun cabinet.

The fridge and dog bed cabinet will be 1/2" baltic birch, put together with a finishing nailer, wood glue and a lot of sanding. Since we only need that cabinet to hold our fridge and our pup's bed, I figured using 80/20 wasn't necessary. The structure of the cabinet will be all wood fins. The dog platform is on a piano hinge and under will hold a water tank, propane tank, tools, etc. Under the fridge is just an open cubby for our camp chairs, and stove.

Hoping to build it all out over the wintertime, but planning it out has helped in ordering materials. I was an architect in my previous life and did a lot of design/build millwork using Rhino, SW, and CNC. I picked the program up again for the first time in 10 years to work on our house designs and figured modeling the Troopy would be easy as. It was. And a lot of fun too. It helped me go over the design with my lady and she brought up a lot of great points. 3D visualization saves a lot of time in the end.

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First startup and running after in frame rebuild. Engine is quiet and smooth with new pistons, ring, rod bearings.
I did away with the water cooling on my turbo as it was causing too much heat buildup in the cooling system. Now I'm having trouble as my turbo gets hot and the silicone boot that connects to it slips off. This should be a easy fix I hope.
I ran the engine for 40 minutes on new oil and then changed oil and filter. I will probably run it 2 tanks of fuel before I change it again. The oil is spotless clean now. Rare in a diesel.
 
That’s the one “smack-you-in-the-face” thing I witnessed with my first oil change.

It was incredible that the oil hadn’t turned immediately black like every other oil change I’ve done since I’ve had this thing.

Something to be said about a clean, fresh bottom end and oiling system.

That said, you are still going to have trouble keeping it cool with the turbo. These engines just were not designed for them— fuel delivery and management-wise...

Well, without pouring a metric s***-ton of money.

I’m so tempted to get rid of my turbo and go back to an NA engine just to see what a new stock motor would be like.
 
Went camping this weekend, so naturally i waited till the last minute to do some mods the night before I left.
Got some aluminium profiles pressed up and some rear door card blanks which I fitted with some nutserts. Internal side rails with tie down points. Also got the roof painted 😊
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Didn’t realize that was even an option.
That's a nice upgrade/mod that I want to do. I'm guessing it can be keyed to match the ignition. Would that be correct, or is it a very different size key?

My FZJ75 has a locking glove box but the ignition key won't open it and I don't have a key. Not going to worry with it until I get it back to the US.
 
My FZJ75 has a locking glove box but the ignition key won't open it and I don't have a key. Not going to worry with it until I get it back to the US.
My truck isn’t at home but now I’m wondering if there’s a lock that I have simply overlooked.
 
That’s the one “smack-you-in-the-face” thing I witnessed with my first oil change.

It was incredible that the oil hadn’t turned immediately black like every other oil change I’ve done since I’ve had this thing.

Something to be said about a clean, fresh bottom end and oiling system.

That said, you are still going to have trouble keeping it cool with the turbo. These engines just were not designed for them— fuel delivery and management-wise...

Well, without pouring a metric s***-ton of money.

I’m so tempted to get rid of my turbo and go back to an NA engine just to see what a new stock motor would be like.
Went for a drive last night, without the water cooling for the turbo my silicone rubber turbo boot 2-2.25" gets hot and squishy and the clamp keeps squeezing off. Drove home with boost leaking. Really low on power and must be very careful not to spike EGT's over 700C. I don't think you'll like it NA after driving turbo, I don't.

Interesting thing in the rebuild all of my Rods were labeled 13B and 14B, my bearings came in a box labled lexus, piston ring boxes were labled 14B. Kind of makes me wonder if a 13BT head/injectors and IP could be bolted onto a 3B block and run. I know the compression ratio is different................I did alot of honing with ball hone and stone hone to get the scratches out of #3. Started with 120grit. All scratch edges smoothed out, but some were still visible, but the rings still seal up good. Bore dimension was +-.003 in all locations. Piston to bore clearance in #3 after all the honing was .006". I expected to have piston slap when cold, but I don't. I do let it idle longer on startup. I fit ring gap to .030-.032" on all rings with a cutoff wheel on dremel(still far less max recomendation). Without the fitting all rings were within .002" of factory minimum. After one of the comments on excess heat can cause ring swelling shut/ring breakage and the fact that I had broke rings on 3 pistons made me go with extra clearance. Pistons cerekoted for minor insurance against things. I used the thicker head gasket........Parts total was around $300. special/new tools, cerekote, gasket sealant etc....Probably brought the material cost up around $550.

Cause of failure in the engine: On previous overheat the engine swallowed a exhaust valve seat. I replaced the head, but tried to get by with the damaged pistons as the divets were not that deep and I was able to smooth them out with a grinder. Evidently there was a small piece of steel embedded in the aluminum dome of one of the damaged pistons. Upon extreme EGT/engine heat it came out and rattled it's way over to the edge of the piston and squashed into the edge pinching the top ring on #3............. If I had known how little added difficulty it is to replace the pistons, rings, rod bearings in frame I would have done it when I put on the new head.
 
Well, not the weekend but last week.
Finally found me something what i always wanted to have. A troopy.

This one is a 1986 BJ75, 306k km's on clock, 3B+H55F, diff locks, winch... rust.
Build thread will be started eventually, i have my HJ61 resto, 540 and HDJ80 in queue before attempting to start on this one, so don't hold your breath. :)

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