What did you do on your 70 series today? (14 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hey Dan....I've been bringing in Kut Snake flares.....bolt on style. Have a set for my new 79 project. They are VERY stout flares. I've been moving 80 series stuff but they have it all.....40, 60, 70, 80, 100, 200(on the way). If you'd like, I'll find out if they have them for your model. I've got to get pics of the 70 series ones I have.....

Here are some 80's flares...

View attachment 1900555


Do they have these for a wide nose HZJ78 ?

Thanks and btw the door speaker pods arrived today they are awesome !

Joe
 
Do they have these for a wide nose HZJ78 ?

Thanks and btw the door speaker pods arrived today they are awesome !

Joe
I think they do have them for the 78. The short and mid wheel bases are the only ones missing. Let me confirm.

Good news on the pods! I tried all week to get mine on the 73. No such luck. We are in the middle of a property expansion right now and that is taking up most of my time. Maybe next week for the install.
 
Thanks Chris let me know if they are available and what the cost might be , unfortunately my troopy is still in Europe so it will be a while before I can install the hood struts and speaker pods .
 
Hey Dan....I've been bringing in Kut Snake flares.....bolt on style. Have a set for my new 79 project. They are VERY stout flares. I've been moving 80 series stuff but they have it all.....40, 60, 70, 80, 100, 200(on the way). If you'd like, I'll find out if they have them for your model. I've got to get pics of the 70 series ones I have.....

Here are some 80's flares...

View attachment 1900555
Their site does not list 70/73/74 but in looking at a 75 Troopy with dual tanks and a 74 here in the museum it looks like the right rear wheel opening/fuel door geography may be the same. It is difficult to be 100% sure without a flare to test fit.

I'm not keen on the big old sheet metal screws. If I were to do it I would use 5 or 6mm nutserts and stainless machine screws. Easier to control the tension and also easier to remove the flares to clean under them regularly. Regular cleaning would be a desirable thing for a rust-prone 7x variant.

They say no painting required but I would want to know if they are paintable as black on my truck is not gonna work.
 
I didn’t do anything on any of my 70 series today as I am working on my UN spec HZJ80 but the fine people at PSP Expeditioncampers did cut the roof of my Troopy and started the pop top conversion. Can’t wait to take it on it’s first trip .
1900835
 
Brought the Ute home while Rob catches up on some other projects. Pulling the engine and
1900845

transmission is next on the list and when that's completed the correct brushbar will be installed.
 
Mr "B".. my challenge is I took my LJ to "the" best diesel ship about 29 miles away.. they will "look it over" for $250.00 & a rebuild $1000 + parts (less the "look over" cost).. I would appreciate any feedback on this..
Ergo the search for a rebuilt inj. pump..
Cheers

That seems about right. They hook it up to a machine, test flow and all that. Labor to check it all out runs usually around $250-$350 per shop.
A full rebuild will run you $1200 at the cheapest.

I would be wary of a $400 rebuilt pump. That’s a 3rd of the going rate.
 
Their site does not list 70/73/74 but in looking at a 75 Troopy with dual tanks and a 74 here in the museum it looks like the right rear wheel opening/fuel door geography may be the same. It is difficult to be 100% sure without a flare to test fit.

I'm not keen on the big old sheet metal screws. If I were to do it I would use 5 or 6mm nutserts and stainless machine screws. Easier to control the tension and also easier to remove the flares to clean under them regularly. Regular cleaning would be a desirable thing for a rust-prone 7x variant.

They say no painting required but I would want to know if they are paintable as black on my truck is not gonna work.
I'll have to ask the guys if it would fit on the 70/73/74.....bet they might even send a flare to test since it would be nice to know. The ones I have for my 79 won't be of any use of course.

The sheetmetal screws kind of suck. They do the job but I think outserts would be way better. I think I'd actually mount them with the sheetmetal screws, then go back and install with nutserts and machine screws. They definitely aren't the easiest thing to install....at least on the 80. They ended up working really nicely though.

They are a textured black surface. Lots of sanding and priming and sanding and priming to get them smooth but it could be done. I'm torn on my new build. My guys say leave them black...my gut says go white....some part of me thinks grey. Black will look pretty tough though and since this truck will not be a build like my current 79.....I think I'll be OK with them as they come.
 
I wouldn't mind leaving the texture. Tacoma flares from the early 2000s vintage were textured, not to this degree however. Some stayed black, some got painted.

Agreed on sheet metal screws for initial fit. Then take them off and properly install nutserts with corrosion inhibitors.
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't mind leaving the texture. Tacoma flares from the early 2000s vintage were textured, not to this degree however. Some stayed black, some got painted.

Agreed on sheet metal screws for initial fit. Then take them off and properly install nutserts with corrosion inhibitors.

Those Taco flares were very very light texture....not like these. My Taco shop truck has the black ones. I think the painted was part of the SR5 package....grille, flares...bumpers maybe were all color matched.

The texture on the Kut Snake is really nice. Has a nice sheen. They're well made for sure. 5mm thick ABS plastic.

Sent an email to my guy about the 70/73/74....we'll see what the deal is.
 
Can that type of plastic be successfully painted with automotive-grade finishes?
 
Can that type of plastic be successfully painted with automotive-grade finishes?

It can. It just needs somebody that knows what they are doing. We used to paint a ton of rough textured belt molding on BMWs back in the day....lots of high build primer and sanding. Worked just fine.

I think they look good painted. I was on the fence regarding the style of this flare but I've warmed up to it.

1901073
 
Sprang open a can of worms...

041canoworms.jpg


Have figured out that the front drivers-side fender has been in a fender bender, and corrected with some bondo and bad welding. Rooting out the problem pieces and replacing them...
 
G'Day Fella's,

Some time back, I machined up and prepared two new end caps, for my rear bumper.
These are to accomodate the tounge of a high lift jack.




1902585


1902586


Well I finally found the time to remove the rear bumper from the Battle Cruiser, and Hot Glue these in place.
1902588


1902589


Now, I'll take it to the powder coaters, and get them to do their magic.

D'oh!
Homer
 
Do it once and do it right. Nice work. Most all of these units need to be rebuilt at this point. My truck was a different machine after I had my injectors and IP rebuilt.
 
Do it once and do it right. Nice work. Most all of these units need to be rebuilt at this point. My truck was a different machine after I had my injectors and IP rebuilt.

Thats what I thought, as painful as it was $$$, it wasn't going to run right without rebuilding it and injectors. I have no frame of reference on how well it's going to run, I'll just say I'm hoping that day comes soon.

And I need to look at my linkage, 1 wiper I accidentally bumped and found I could move it freely. The other caused both to move. I have bigger fish to fry on this truck, but you reminded me of yet another project.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom