What did you do on your 70 series today? (27 Viewers)

[Irish11]

Worked on my 3b’s lack of speed and blow by issues today by installing louder speakers in the doors (the dash 4" ones are a bit quiet). Now I can listen to music while slowly going up hills haha.

I know the speaker pods would be more ideal but my doors are 50% steel, 50/50 rust & bondo. Speaker pod money went in the new motor/turbo fund.

 

[RHINO]

I know the speaker pods would be more ideal but my doors are 50% steel, 50/50 rust & bondo. Speaker pod money went in the new motor/turbo fund.

priorities

 

[robmobile73]

Camping and surf fishing at ft. Fisher this weekend. Bj73 showed it's dislike for 70mph on the highway, but due to simplicity and gauges a 15 minute stop remedied the problem. Cavernous rubber floored interior transported camping gear, fishing gear, cut bait, and many shovels of beach sand etc.. Much better in the thick sand with the smooth crossover pipe sans intercooler. I can now use high range to wheel on the beach.. fairly sure we'll make the 3.5 hour trip home tomorrow ok. Think I'll go 65 on I74 And jus let people pass.

View attachment 3253108

View attachment 3253111

Of note to those pushing the 3B beyond it's intended limit on highway and with turbo. For a couple of years previous I had an intercooler with a chevy geo metro radiator as the heat exchanger mounted under my roof rack. With intercooler I could run 70 in the summer on flat ground as long as the AC was off. Perhaps 65-67 with AC on and no heat issues. With intercooler boost was max 15psi and I had to use low range to wheel in thick sand. Without intercooler and a proper smooth curved crossover pipe my boost is max 24psi. I tied the old heat exchanger/radiator parallel with the cooling system(heater lines). Much better cooling and I could run 70 in the summer with AC better than with the intercooler, but have to watch the EGT's mmore on hills or acceleration. ....................Prior to this trip my second radiator developed a leak so I removed it. Now It does boil some water out running 70 on the highway and running on the beach in thick sand. In 50 miles of 70mph it will loose enough coolant to heat up...........The best recipe for abusing a 3B with turbo and speed is likely a larger secondary radiator under the roof rack+ a free flowing intercooler.................I am pondering selling my BJ73 at some point in the next year and moving to something toyota better for road trips as well as reliable and good off road.

 

[robmobile73]

Thank you for taking the time to tell this story. A broken piston ... that is brutal.

This actually touches on something I have wondered for awhile, which is "HOW do engines fail?" I've worked on hundreds of vehicles but never performance diesel work, and the answer to this question isn't as obvious as I thought it would be.

Assuming EGT's are kept under 1200F or so, can we keep dumping fuel into the engine and cranking up the boost forever? Or will the engine fail due to excessive power, even if the EGT's are in check?

Essentially, are the pistons cracking because they are melting (high EGT's)? Or are they cracking because of too big of a detonation even with low EGT's?

I hope that question made sense. Essentially, I'm trying to make sure my own setup (which is the same as yours) does not blow itself to pieces, even if I'm keeping an eye on EGT's.

I have been lucky with my hard pushed 3B so far. A few things I used/incorporated in my build and try to do on trips. The highest load on the engine is high speed driving in hot weather. High EGT's add heat to the engine. It is likely that a welded DIY log manifold with less mass adds less heat to the head as it cools quickly when it heats up compared to a cast manifold...........

When pistons/rings get really hot they expand. If ring gap is not sufficient they can expand till they touch and then crack/score the bore and you will have a tick/piston slap if more than 1 ring is broken. 1 ring can break and it will run on for quite awhile. Extra ring gap in the build is good for an engine not meant for turbo. IE hypothetical if minimum acceptible ring gap is .010 and max is .040 on a NA engine and you add a turbo instead of going for a super tight .010 gap for maximum efficiency perhaps go for .025. My 3B overheated on me and more than once prior to my owning it. It failed due to broken rings on 2 cyl and eventually one of those pinched and loss of compression.

Cerekote has many types of ceramic coatings to include lubricating piston skirt and heat reflective piston dome reflective coatings. They sell 4oz sample bottles for about $20-40. That 4oz bottle will coat about 20 pistons. You can sandblast your piston domes brush it on and bake it in your kitchen oven(when your wife is not home and your windows open/range hood on). In my side by side testing the coated piston was 20 degrees cooler after 10-15 seconds exposure to a map gas torch. A little insurance on a hill climb.

The factory metal head gasket covers most of the precups. Which will help prevent "dropping a precup" unless they are totally cracked to pieces. At one point I had a non OEM head gasket to look at and it didn't have as much steel I think the one I looked at only had steel around the edge of the bore.
If that is the case then this would in no way help prevent dropping of a precup during overheats. Perhaps some cases of dropped precups are from the use of non-factory head gaskets in addition to overheat.

Overheats can cause you to crack and drop a valve seat. This will cause loss of compression, divits in the piston, perhaps a pinched ring, and perhaps damaged bore.

Really important to top off the water and oil prior to any run longer than 20 minutes at interstate speeds.

EGT's it's hard to get a good answer on this. Too many people respond with "how they feel about it" based on when they guess it might be a problem. The most solid sounding thing I've heard is at 750C things start to melt/break/crack. I set my alarm at 720 and no more than a few seconds before I lift off the pedal.

The above has worked well so far for a bit more than 11K miles on a turbod 3B.

Some people adjust the IP timing on their NA engines after adding a turbo. I have heard if you adjust in the wrong direction you can cause a broken crank. I have not adjusted mine....If you adjust your IP timeing make sure you go the right way with it.

 

[robmobile73]

Working on my glow system. Finally got the parts in the mail this week. No voltage was coming out on resistor for the secondary glow of the Toyota supper glow system when there was 24V going into it. Going to replace the glow plugs with 14V plugs and replace the resistor.

View attachment 3257260

If you get tired of/don't want to repair the original a genaric $10 starter solonoid activated by a manual momentary switch to send power to the glow plugs works wonderfully well and is infinately adjustable to different engine heat/ambient temperature as much as your brain can tell your finger to hold the switch or intermittant activate during start and the first 15 seconds of running based on the feel and noise of the engine firing on all cyl or not.

 

[bj70bc]

I have been lucky with my hard pushed 3B so far. A few things I used/incorporated in my build and try to do on trips. The highest load on the engine is high speed driving in hot weather. High EGT's add heat to the engine. It is likely that a welded DIY log manifold with less mass adds less heat to the head as it cools quickly when it heats up compared to a cast manifold...........

When pistons/rings get really hot they expand. If ring gap is not sufficient they can expand till they touch and then crack/score the bore and you will have a tick/piston slap if more than 1 ring is broken. 1 ring can break and it will run on for quite awhile. Extra ring gap in the build is good for an engine not meant for turbo. IE hypothetical if minimum acceptible ring gap is .010 and max is .040 on a NA engine and you add a turbo instead of going for a super tight .010 gap for maximum efficiency perhaps go for .025. My 3B overheated on me and more than once prior to my owning it. It failed due to broken rings on 2 cyl and eventually one of those pinched and loss of compression.

Cerekote has many types of ceramic coatings to include lubricating piston skirt and heat reflective piston dome reflective coatings. They sell 4oz sample bottles for about $20-40. That 4oz bottle will coat about 20 pistons. You can sandblast your piston domes brush it on and bake it in your kitchen oven(when your wife is not home and your windows open/range hood on). In my side by side testing the coated piston was 20 degrees cooler after 10-15 seconds exposure to a map gas torch. A little insurance on a hill climb.

The factory metal head gasket covers most of the precups. Which will help prevent "dropping a precup" unless they are totally cracked to pieces. At one point I had a non OEM head gasket to look at and it didn't have as much steel I think the one I looked at only had steel around the edge of the bore.
If that is the case then this would in no way help prevent dropping of a precup during overheats. Perhaps some cases of dropped precups are from the use of non-factory head gaskets in addition to overheat.

Overheats can cause you to crack and drop a valve seat. This will cause loss of compression, divits in the piston, perhaps a pinched ring, and perhaps damaged bore.

Really important to top off the water and oil prior to any run longer than 20 minutes at interstate speeds.

EGT's it's hard to get a good answer on this. Too many people respond with "how they feel about it" based on when they guess it might be a problem. The most solid sounding thing I've heard is at 750C things start to melt/break/crack. I set my alarm at 720 and no more than a few seconds before I lift off the pedal.

The above has worked well so far for a bit more than 11K miles on a turbod 3B.

Some people adjust the IP timing on their NA engines after adding a turbo. I have heard if you adjust in the wrong direction you can cause a broken crank. I have not adjusted mine....If you adjust your IP timeing make sure you go the right way with it.

the 'right way' is the injection pump rotated away from the block to retard timing( at the top of the pump)
rough a maximum of 1-1.5mm on the check marks..... which will move away from each other.... (read your FSM)

 

[bj70bc]

I have been lucky with my hard pushed 3B so far. A few things I used/incorporated in my build and try to do on trips. The highest load on the engine is high speed driving in hot weather. High EGT's add heat to the engine. It is likely that a welded DIY log manifold with less mass adds less heat to the head as it cools quickly when it heats up compared to a cast manifold...........

When pistons/rings get really hot they expand. If ring gap is not sufficient they can expand till they touch and then crack/score the bore and you will have a tick/piston slap if more than 1 ring is broken. 1 ring can break and it will run on for quite awhile. Extra ring gap in the build is good for an engine not meant for turbo. IE hypothetical if minimum acceptible ring gap is .010 and max is .040 on a NA engine and you add a turbo instead of going for a super tight .010 gap for maximum efficiency perhaps go for .025. My 3B overheated on me and more than once prior to my owning it. It failed due to broken rings on 2 cyl and eventually one of those pinched and loss of compression.

Cerekote has many types of ceramic coatings to include lubricating piston skirt and heat reflective piston dome reflective coatings. They sell 4oz sample bottles for about $20-40. That 4oz bottle will coat about 20 pistons. You can sandblast your piston domes brush it on and bake it in your kitchen oven(when your wife is not home and your windows open/range hood on). In my side by side testing the coated piston was 20 degrees cooler after 10-15 seconds exposure to a map gas torch. A little insurance on a hill climb.

The factory metal head gasket covers most of the precups. Which will help prevent "dropping a precup" unless they are totally cracked to pieces. At one point I had a non OEM head gasket to look at and it didn't have as much steel I think the one I looked at only had steel around the edge of the bore.
If that is the case then this would in no way help prevent dropping of a precup during overheats. Perhaps some cases of dropped precups are from the use of non-factory head gaskets in addition to overheat.

Overheats can cause you to crack and drop a valve seat. This will cause loss of compression, divits in the piston, perhaps a pinched ring, and perhaps damaged bore.

Really important to top off the water and oil prior to any run longer than 20 minutes at interstate speeds.

EGT's it's hard to get a good answer on this. Too many people respond with "how they feel about it" based on when they guess it might be a problem. The most solid sounding thing I've heard is at 750C things start to melt/break/crack. I set my alarm at 720 and no more than a few seconds before I lift off the pedal.

The above has worked well so far for a bit more than 11K miles on a turbod 3B.

Some people adjust the IP timing on their NA engines after adding a turbo. I have heard if you adjust in the wrong direction you can cause a broken crank. I have not adjusted mine....If you adjust your IP timeing make sure you go the right way with it.

rob, you should adjust your timing, probably the single biggest thing to do to lessen peak combustion pressures and save your crank.
the injection timing also has a mechanical advance internally on the timing gears and advances due to rpm (engine speed) so your are trying to lessen total advance (pump timing) so that this internal advance doesnt advance to far for a turboed application under high revs...

its just 4 bolts to loosen and a prybar to slightly rock the pump away from the engine, pretty easy once you know where the bolts are
The post 'turbocharger for 3b' by 'Gerg' has pictures on how to do this page 6

 

[Bogan]

A few weeks ago, I started on a driver's side cabinet refresh in our Troopcarrier. Our dog died, so it freed up a LOT of space (38" x 24" footprint). I made use of it with a tall cabinet that has two (20x20x8) drawers and a long (38x14x18) drawer for tools. The top portion is for duffle bags, etc, and features a drop-down table with a touch latch closure. The two middle drawers are on Accuride touch latches, and the bottom is Accuride HD locking slides. I bolted the top of the cabinet to the lip of the Alucab roof conversion. When the bed platform is closed, it closes off the top of the cabinet.

It's super stable and every single piece of hardware is covered in Loctite... My favorite detail is the pegboard + bungee ends... Now when we drive it's easy to walk to the back and get drinks. My partner wanted to be able to run an electric kettle while we're driving so I upped our house battery to 200ah/2000w inverter/200a fuse and it works quite well!

 

[svsisu]

A few weeks ago, I started on a driver's side cabinet refresh in our Troopcarrier. Our dog died, so it freed up a LOT of space (38" x 24" footprint). I made use of it with a tall cabinet that has two (20x20x8) drawers and a long (38x14x18) drawer for tools. The top portion is for duffle bags, etc, and features a drop-down table with a touch latch closure. The two middle drawers are on Accuride touch latches, and the bottom is Accuride HD locking slides. I bolted the top of the cabinet to the lip of the Alucab roof conversion. When the bed platform is closed, it closes off the top of the cabinet.

It's super stable and every single piece of hardware is covered in Loctite... My favorite detail is the pegboard + bungee ends... Now when we drive it's easy to walk to the back and get drinks. My partner wanted to be able to run an electric kettle while we're driving so I upped our house battery to 200ah/2000w inverter/200a fuse and it works quite well!

View attachment 3257964

View attachment 3257965

View attachment 3257967



View attachment 3257969

View attachment 3257973

Loving the peg board, so useful and practical. And you have me re-thinking using 80/20. I really like how modular it is and how easy it is to change if needed.

 

[OGBeno]

Glad my bolt selection made the spares drawer.

 

[Bogan]

Glad my bolt selection made the spares drawer.

Oh yeah! I've got a nice collection of spares. Thanks!

Loving the peg board, so useful and practical. And you have me re-thinking using 80/20. I really like how modular it is and how easy it is to change if needed.

Yep. Super simple. It was nice using this cabinet throughout the building process to figure out all the details.

 

[robmobile73]

rob, you should adjust your timing, probably the single biggest thing to do to lessen peak combustion pressures and save your crank.
the injection timing also has a mechanical advance internally on the timing gears and advances due to rpm (engine speed) so your are trying to lessen total advance (pump timing) so that this internal advance doesnt advance to far for a turboed application under high revs...

its just 4 bolts to loosen and a prybar to slightly rock the pump away from the engine, pretty easy once you know where the bolts are
The post 'turbocharger for 3b' by 'Gerg' has pictures on how to do this page 6

Thankyou for your reply I will look at Gerg's thread and consider it. I don't doubt anything you say. It all makes sense. Retarding the timing makes sense. I can hear under load a sound that is similar to "spark knock"/detonation in my engine. Detonation in a gas engine being the colliding of flame fronts/pressure fronts in the engine prior to TDC causing stress and rattle. Adjusting timing is concerning to me because 2 people on this forum on opposite ends of the experience spectrum did so and both ended up suffered broken cranks from "unknown cause"....and I don't know the cause and don't want names mentioned............Maybe they did it wrong, or maybe it was another cause all together.......I don't mind posting my screw ups or efforts beyond the envelope of ability that end in failure if others learn from it. Some people are sensitive about this sort of thing.

 

[FJBen]

Thankyou for your reply I will look at Gerg's thread and consider it. I don't doubt anything you say. It all makes sense. Retarding the timing makes sense. I can hear under load a sound that is similar to "spark knock"/detonation in my engine. Detonation in a gas engine being the colliding of flame fronts/pressure fronts in the engine prior to TDC causing stress and rattle. Adjusting timing is concerning to me because 2 people on this forum on opposite ends of the experience spectrum did so and both ended up suffered broken cranks from "unknown cause"....and I don't know the cause and don't want names mentioned............Maybe they did it wrong, or maybe it was another cause all together.......I don't mind posting my screw ups or efforts beyond the envelope of ability that end in failure if others learn from it. Some people are sensitive about this sort of thing.

The cause is “turbo on a 3B” Toyota never put a turbo on the 3B. They built up the 13bt and designed it to handle a turbo, which then was the 14bt/15bt.

I know people have luck running them over lots of miles, but seems like it’s a matter of time before something bad happens. Seems like the same issues that the 1HZ have.

 

[Basie]

Nice Basie, Always great to see rain in Nam. where did you go?

Hi Andre

It was at Nauams Mountain camp Close to Nauchas and about 40 km from top of Spreetshoogte pass. Really nice place Clean, spacious and private. I can recommend it

 

[Bogan]

Hi Andre

It was at Nauams Mountain camp Close to Nauchas and about 40 km from top of Spreetshoogte pass. Really nice place Clean, spacious and private. I can recommend it

My friend Dan lives in Namibia. He rides and builds bicycles there. I'm trying to get out to see him and then tour around either in 4x4 or bicycle.

 

[RobertoL]

A few weeks ago, I started on a driver's side cabinet refresh in our Troopcarrier. Our dog died, so it freed up a LOT of space (38" x 24" footprint). I made use of it with a tall cabinet that has two (20x20x8) drawers and a long (38x14x18) drawer for tools. The top portion is for duffle bags, etc, and features a drop-down table with a touch latch closure. The two middle drawers are on Accuride touch latches, and the bottom is Accuride HD locking slides. I bolted the top of the cabinet to the lip of the Alucab roof conversion. When the bed platform is closed, it closes off the top of the cabinet.

It's super stable and every single piece of hardware is covered in Loctite... My favorite detail is the pegboard + bungee ends... Now when we drive it's easy to walk to the back and get drinks. My partner wanted to be able to run an electric kettle while we're driving so I upped our house battery to 200ah/2000w inverter/200a fuse and it works quite well!

View attachment 3257964

View attachment 3257965

View attachment 3257967



View attachment 3257969

View attachment 3257973

What a great setup!

 

[DAD4]

I got a little too confident in the legendary Toyota reliability and just "assumed" that my new to me 92 Prado's four wheel drive would work and the transfer case wouldn't make any horrible grinding noises.....nope. Bring on the 18% grade hill covered with 4" of snow. I never got stranded but I proved to myself that the 2LTE can spin the rear tires under the right conditions. I blame myself for not checking the 4WD system, I know better. Manual hubs are going to be installed, where I go I can't have any reliability issues. I think the Transfer case was sticky after being parked for years with a cracked head. There must be a LSD in the rear axle as I ended up going up the hill mostly sideways but I made it by using gentle throttle control and lots of motivational swearing.

 

[AirheadNut]

I got a little too confident in the legendary Toyota reliability and just "assumed" that my new to me 92 Prado's four wheel drive would work and the transfer case wouldn't make any horrible grinding noises.....nope. Bring on the 18% grade hill covered with 4" of snow. I never got stranded but I proved to myself that the 2LTE can spin the rear tires under the right conditions. I blame myself for not checking the 4WD system, I know better. Manual hubs are going to be installed, where I go I can't have any reliability issues. I think the Transfer case was sticky after being parked for years with a cracked head. There must be a LSD in the rear axle as I ended up going up the hill mostly sideways but I made it by using gentle throttle control and lots of motivational swearing.

Was the grinding noise from the transfer case or the front axle area? I have experienced a grinding noise under load from my electric hubs when they don't engage properly, mostly in cold weather. Also, if the electric hubs don't engage when the button is pressed and you try to engage 4WD with the vehicle moving then the transfer case will grind.

There is a data tag on the firewall in the engine bay that will have the axle code on it, I don't recall the different codes off the top of my head but you could look up your axle code to determine if yours is fitted with an LSD or if it is open.

 

[TreadingLight]

My partner wanted to be able to run an electric kettle while we're driving so I upped our house battery to 200ah/2000w inverter/200a fuse and it works quite well!

That's a huge inverter. Are you using a household north-american 110v kettle? Curious as I am going around and around in my mind about how to upgrade my camping cooking setup. I'd like to be able to heat water to ~200f without leaving the vehicle on mornings with terrible weather. But 12v kettles are terribly slow. 110v requires a massive inverter. Part of me wants to consider a 24v house battery and 220 inverter but that seems like overkill.

 

[Bogan]

That's a huge inverter. Are you using a household north-american 110v kettle? Curious as I am going around and around in my mind about how to upgrade my camping cooking setup. I'd like to be able to heat water to ~200f without leaving the vehicle on mornings with terrible weather. But 12v kettles are terribly slow. 110v requires a massive inverter. Part of me wants to consider a 24v house battery and 220 inverter but that seems like overkill.

We're using a standard electric kettle. It's 1L and draws 900w. AC 110 Volts. The way I look at it, I need 200ah due to our 85L fridge/webasto heater combination in the winter, so why not use the appropriately sized inverter? I'm only using it when I sleep somewhere overnight but don't set up camp. I'll wake up, put on the kettle, boil water for coffee and oatmeal and get on the road. We set up our Cook Partner stove when we're proper camping.

One thing to note: even a 900w kettle surges and drains 25% of the power bank over its 3minutes of use. Pretty wild. 450W of solar tops that off quickly though, even in cloudy, rainy days.