What did you do on your 70 series today? (12 Viewers)

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Sh!t escalated quickly.

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Saw this tonight when I was getting fuel. They took off as I was pulling in.

I only had time to fill up my 25 gallon tank before they had made it 1/2 a block away. :D
I didn’t even have a chance to :flipoff2: invite them to mud or tell them it isn’t a “real” cruiser, maybe next time.:rofl:

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All seriousness, it was super clean and quiet. I’m used to my bread van bj74.
 
After owning my Scheel-Mann seats for three years now, I will say I wish I ran covers on them. They wear out fast. My leather is already cracking too, regardless of the maintenance I did to them as per the owner's manual. Kind of a bummer to have split leather on 3-year old seats...

I took your advice and ordered a cover from Germany for the drivers side to try out.
 
I took your advice and ordered a cover from Germany for the drivers side to try out.
Howdy!! Would you mind sharing where you got the cover? I've ordered the Escape gear seat cover set and I'm not pulling the trigger yet on the seat upgrade. But when I do, I think it would be good to have all the related info. Thanks!
 
Howdy!! Would you mind sharing where you got the cover? I've ordered the Escape gear seat cover set and I'm not pulling the trigger yet on the seat upgrade. But when I do, I think it would be good to have all the related info. Thanks!

You will love those Escape Gear covers. I wish they would make Scheel-mann covers.

There are only two companies that I could find that make the covers for the Scheel-mann Vario F which I have. If you know of any others, please share!

The first one is Knightsbridge Overland which seems to be USA based. Their site only shows cover for the Scheel-mann Sportline but I am told you have to contact them for the Vario F option since it is not advertised on their site. Expedition Seat Covers - https://knightsbridgeoverland.com/collections/expedition-seat-covers/scheel-mann

The second one (which is the one I went with) is Delta Bags based out of Germany. The cover they offer for the Vario F (not the Vario XXL) is a bit more "tactical" than I am used to but we will see how it works out. Seat Cover scheel-mann Vario | green brown | O-5298-20.1 - https://www.delta-bags.de/en/Seat-Cover-scheel-mann-Vario/O-5298-20.1

 
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You will love those Escape Gear covers. I wish they would make Scheel-mann covers.

There are only two companies that I could find that make the covers for the Scheel-mann Vario F which I have. If you know of any others, please share!

The first one is Knightsbridge Overland which seems to be USA based. Their site only shows cover for the Scheel-mann Sportline but I am told you have to contact them for the Vario F option since it is not advertised on their site. Expedition Seat Covers - https://knightsbridgeoverland.com/collections/expedition-seat-covers/scheel-mann

The second one (which is the one I went with) is Delta Bags based out of Germany. The cover they offer for the Vario F (not the Vario XXL) is a bit more "tactical" than I am used to but we will see how it works out. Seat Cover scheel-mann Vario | green brown | O-5298-20.1 - https://www.delta-bags.de/en/Seat-Cover-scheel-mann-Vario/O-5298-20.1


This is the way! 👆🏼 Thanks heaps! 🙌🏼
 
I want to hear this story.

I have the exact same set up as you. 1HZ + Turbo + PDI.

What went down?
Not really sure. Definitely not a professional mechanic but, my dad was a TV repair man and left me an awesome set of tools! Also have a killer old school diesel cruiserhead guiding and helping me. Obviously, a wealth of info up inside this forum too. Hella grateful for all the resources. :beer:

The rig was DIY turbo'd when I got it. Unknown, oddball, tiny turbo and not intercooled but it was set-up with EGT & boost gauges. Lots of history is not known but it ran well. Kept my USA truck foot out of it and watched temps. Had Tor install the PDI kit then we later swapped the DIY turbo out for a G-Turbo and all the appropriate bits. Also replaced a constrictive K/N air filter with one of Tor's big custom air boxes.

Was getting excessive blow-by and concerning exhaust smoke that ended in dipstick gate recently. Cleaned up. Ran compression test. Consistent and good across all cylinders but #5. Pulled the head. No signs of head gasket issues. #5 piston has a crack. Surprisingly little other internal damage that we can see. The block and rods are at the machine shop getting checked. The pistons are on my garage floor. IP and injectors dropped of at our local rebuilder. New head and a metric s***ton of parts ordered. Know more in the next week or two probably/hopefully. The machine shop is super busy.

Good opportunity to learn and build and make my body mega sore from lifting heavy crap.

We live in a valley and any direction we go to explore requires going over a pass or three. Also pull a M416 trailer cram-crap packed full so I'm likely keeping it turbo'd for better or worse. 'Merica! ;)


-B
 
Kept my USA truck foot out of it and watched temps. Had Tor install the PDI kit then we later swapped the DIY turbo out for a G-Turbo and all the appropriate bits. Also replaced a constrictive K/N air filter with one of Tor's big custom air boxes.

Thank you for taking the time to tell this story. A broken piston ... that is brutal.

This actually touches on something I have wondered for awhile, which is "HOW do engines fail?" I've worked on hundreds of vehicles but never performance diesel work, and the answer to this question isn't as obvious as I thought it would be.

Assuming EGT's are kept under 1200F or so, can we keep dumping fuel into the engine and cranking up the boost forever? Or will the engine fail due to excessive power, even if the EGT's are in check?

Essentially, are the pistons cracking because they are melting (high EGT's)? Or are they cracking because of too big of a detonation even with low EGT's?

I hope that question made sense. Essentially, I'm trying to make sure my own setup (which is the same as yours) does not blow itself to pieces, even if I'm keeping an eye on EGT's.
 
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EGT is typically related to fueling, more fuel more heat, in general. However when boosting if you don't provide enough fuel you also create more heat. So, it's a slippery slope.

EGT commonly causes heat related issues like melted pistons, dropped pre cups and valve seats ect

Boost pressures commonly cause cracking bending and breaking issues, like connecting rod failures, head gasket failures, cracked pistons, crankshafts ect.

Generally speaking engines that aren't meant for boost pressure or high EGT can suffer from both problems

The trick when boosting an engine is finding that balance of just enough to make a gain but not so much to break stuff, eventually though I believe every boosted non boost engine will experience failure, the goal is to get the longest lifespan before failure.

You can certainly build a non boost engine to take boost reliably.

It's not just a diesel problem, gas engines do the same things when boosted if they aren't built for it.
 
Thank you for taking the time to tell this story. A broken piston ... that is brutal.

This actually touches on something I have wondered for awhile, which is "HOW do engines fail?" I've worked on hundreds of vehicles but never performance diesel work, and the answer to this question isn't as obvious as I thought it would be.

Assuming EGT's are kept under 1200F or so, can we keep dumping fuel into the engine and cranking up the boost forever? Or will the engine fail due to excessive power, even if the EGT's are in check?

Essentially, are the pistons cracking because they are melting (high EGT's)? Or are they cracking because of too big of a detonation even with low EGT's?

I hope that question made sense. Essentially, I'm trying to make sure my own setup (which is the same as yours) does not blow itself to pieces, even if I'm keeping an eye on EGT's.
Makes total sense. Have lots of questions myself.
 
Guyute, got a Q for ya. did you check into or talk about a 1HDT instead of rebuilding the HZ? i imagine cost will be close to the same.
Yeah. Definitely entertained the idea and it's not too late... still entertaining. For sure more $$ if we rebuilt a new-to-me 1HDT vs. just swapping in a used/take-out 1HDT or similar. Feel like I'm ahead for the same-ish costs....Fresh rebuilt 1HZ vs used 1HDT. Turbo stuff aside. Not sure if that makes sense... I'm still spinning a tad. Also... have lots of 1HZ bits and parts socked away and a second rig with a n/a 1HZ. Realize there is lots of crossover 1HZ>1HDT. But.

Land Cruiser Heaven has a 1HD-FTE from a 100 series w/ trans for $14K and a 1HD-FT for $10K plus shipping. They say their engines have "lower than 275K KM" s on them. At the least you'd replace gaskets, seals and hosers? Timing belt, water pump? Yep. Already over what I'd spend on the 1HZ rebuild with freshy IP pump and new injectors and all the while I'm there goodies. According to my bar napkin math anyway.
 

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