Builds WEAKFISH another FJ62 Build Thread (4 Viewers)

[huminajumina]

Yea that was kinda my thought, I'd like to clean up some of the unused wiring and not leave something in there, obviously retaining everything I need for the Chassis harness and the few wires that interface with the new engine. But I'll reference the diagram and go from there. I talked myself into buying a good condition used dashpad without a crack, so all of that was a little more time and money but worth it in the end. Also going to clean up all of these body grounds that are under the dash and check continuity before putting it all back together. Mine had all the typical electrical issues prior to yanking the engine (slow wipers and windows) hoping to fix it be cleaning and checking everything....hoping I don't have to go into the other methods later on.

 

[huminajumina]

Ok, I figured out a lot. I finally got the right manual with the Chassis diagrams. this explains why there was fluctuating voltage, and my wipers and windows are soo slow. The PO must have found bad fusible links and disconnected the battery side after the fusible links. They then just fed a wire from the battery to the alternator to join the other end of the white battery supply wire. I'll see if @Coolerman is still making some for the 62, or purchase some locally.

My Plan is only to remove unused EFI wiring, not trying to change the factory chassis wiring, so I will run those back through.

 

[Dubs2017]

Solid progress. I did the same as @BurntToast and yanked the unused. I un-loomed the big bundle underneath the dash and pulled all the EFI stuff out from the ecu plug end. Slow going by checking the plug schematic, then confirming continuity from the plug to the other end of the wire, then pulling the wire out of the loom. Here is how it looked halfway through.

Also a good time to figure out what you are doing for AC control so you can either keep or eliminate the amp wiring.

 

[huminajumina]

Thanks man, appreciate the help. I pulled all the unused stuff, it made it a lot easier once I found the correct wiring diagram, and basically used the same method, confirmed it by checking continuity to be sure. I left a few things (switched IGN 12VDC, brake switch) things that could be useful in the future. Mostly followed your guys lead and removed what wasn't necessary.

Did my best to not cut as much as possible and depinned alot at the connectors, just a few cuts where it interfaced to the Chassis harness and I will either utilize it for the swap or depin it later (if unused).

Yesterday I was able to roll the cruiser out and give it a good wash, I plugged and covered everything that I could and just used car soap and some mean green, nothing too harsh. I got a lot of the gunk and clay washed out of the engine bay.

After I went through the Wiring diagrams, I routed all the Battery Feed wires back upfront to reconnect them how they should have been. That way they will be integrated into the harness/ loom when the time comes.

For the A/C, I started to dig into the AMP Wiring and what all is involved, my thought initially is to remove it and just run the without but we will see. Are most people running the GM Style Factory A/C Compressor with the Dirty Dingo Denso Adapter kit for hoses?? I have everything for the Dirty Dingo Mini Sanden Model 7D7B10 7176 Compressor in the same location of the factory compressor. Just curious if there are fitmant issues and the smaller one is needed for clearance, but that is way down the road.

 

[dbbowen]

Feels great to get all that wiring out. When I did my swap I ended up pulling my dash to get it all out without cutting. Definitely added a lot of time, but I’m glad I did it.

I uhhh... didnt do this hahaha

While cleaning up the wiring out of the dash makes for a signifigantly cleaner install, its not totally necessary... My 60 has less wiring in there than yalls 62s do though.


Either way, I see more long distance fishing trips in your future after you wrap this swap up!

 

[dbbowen]

Thanks man, appreciate the help. I pulled all the unused stuff, it made it a lot easier once I found the correct wiring diagram, and basically used the same method, confirmed it by checking continuity to be sure. I left a few things (switched IGN 12VDC, brake switch) things that could be useful in the future. Mostly followed your guys lead and removed what wasn't necessary.

View attachment 3894390

Did my best to not cut as much as possible and depinned alot at the connectors, just a few cuts where it interfaced to the Chassis harness and I will either utilize it for the swap or depin it later (if unused).

Yesterday I was able to roll the cruiser out and give it a good wash, I plugged and covered everything that I could and just used car soap and some mean green, nothing too harsh. I got a lot of the gunk and clay washed out of the engine bay.

View attachment 3894398

After I went through the Wiring diagrams, I routed all the Battery Feed wires back upfront to reconnect them how they should have been. That way they will be integrated into the harness/ loom when the time comes.

For the A/C, I started to dig into the AMP Wiring and what all is involved, my thought initially is to remove it and just run the without but we will see. Are most people running the GM Style Factory A/C Compressor with the Dirty Dingo Denso Adapter kit for hoses?? I have everything for the Dirty Dingo Mini Sanden Model 7D7B10 7176 Compressor in the same location of the factory compressor. Just curious if there are fitmant issues and the smaller one is needed for clearance, but that is way down the road.

Go to the junk yard and pull hoses from a silverado and then get a hose shop braise the GM ends onto new hoses with your toyota ends on the other side. You probably have a denso 10s17f compressor which is super common to find the fittings for in the junk yard. Adapters kinda suck. If you dont have any local shops that would braise your hard lines, you could reach out to these guys. Ive never used them but they seem to make custom hose ends

Compressor Adapter Custom Manifold Kit Barb Hi Side Denso 10S17F/10S20F - Air Components

You can configure hose fitting Port in any position just drill and weld in a fitting or we can, just give us a call or email

www.aircomponents.com

Keep in mind, youll need schrader valves on the high and low pressure sides braised on, and a valve for the high pressure transducer or switch on the high side.

Heres My high side hose.

The Toyota amplifier doesnt really have any high side protection so if you just use the toyota amp, and you have a fan issue or somethign and the freon pressure builds up too high it will shoot the freon out the back of the compressor very violently and cover your engine bay in flourescent green pag oil. Trust me on that one


Since you are running a gen 3 motor, you can run your AC through your PCM using either a high pressure transducer or a high pressure binary switch, and by reusing your low pressure switch in your evaporator box. youll just need a PCM that has the IAC drivers on it and some extra wiring. @Dubs2017 did his high pressure switch pretty much the same way I did my high pressure transducer and they both work.

Also that stock GM harness has a really good fusable link on it (the small red box next to the alternator). definitely keep that in the charge/battery/alternator circuit for the GM side and then keep your OEM fusable link for your toyota harness side.

For the little red box if you open it and are looking at the wires inside:
-The small wire just goes up to the alternator. its a factory wire
-The upper left wire is a new wire youll make that goes over to the starting battery (on mine i used a high amp buss bar, then the buss bar to the battery to reduce clutter on the battery terminals).
- the lower left wire is the factory wire from the truck that runs down and bolts to the front of the motor along the front and then up to the starter. That is unmodified and came with the truck.

 

[huminajumina]

Go to the junk yard and pull hoses from a silverado and then get a hose shop braise the GM ends onto new hoses with your toyota ends on the other side. I think vintage air or some other companies make crimp (real hydraulic crimps) on hose ends that bolt to the Denso 10s17f compressor too. Adapters kinda suck.


Since you are running a gen 3 motor, you can run your AC through your PCM using either a high pressure transducer or a high pressure binary switch, and by reusing your low pressure switch in your evaporator box. youll just need a PCM that has the IAC drivers on it and some extra wiring.

Also that stock harness has a really good fusable link on it (the red box next to the alternator). definitely keep that in the charge/battery/alternator circuit for the GM side and then keep your OEM fusable link for your toyota harness side.

Thanks man, been reading your posts a lot, definitely makes things a heck of a lot easier!! Yea I definitely didn't need to remove the dash pad, but I've been staring at the ugly crack since I bought it, so it didn't take much convincing to pull it and look at the harness....

Good call. I have done a previous swap with an LS1 (electric fans) so I installed a trinary switch and bought the (hand pump) hydraulic crimpers and a bunch of fittings, ferrules, and line. I could never get the trinary switch to work on it tho and just opted to use the external relay setup mentioned on LT1 swap. I think that was because I didn't tell PSI my plan when they programmed the ECM. I will keep the factory harness A/C options and try to go this route. Thanks for the heads up!!

And yes, this harness came with mostly everything so I plan to keep most things that I can. Good call on using the fusible link, this harness also has the SARVC Stand alone regulator voltage controller. - which is integrated tot he batter cable and onnected to the ECM...I have done limited reading and will continue to read up to see if it is worth keeping or what's involved with deleting it.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[dbbowen]

Thanks man, been reading your posts a lot, definitely makes things a heck of a lot easier!! Yea I definitely didn't need to remove the dash pad, but I've been staring at the ugly crack since I bought it, so it didn't take much convincing to pull it and look at the harness....

Good call. I have done a previous swap with an LS1 (electric fans) so I installed a trinary switch and bought the (hand pump) hydraulic crimpers and a bunch of fittings, ferrules, and line. I could never get the trinary switch to work on it tho and just opted to use the external relay setup mentioned on LT1 swap. I think that was because I didn't tell PSI my plan when they programmed the ECM. I will keep the factory harness A/C options and try to go this route. Thanks for the heads up!!

And yes, this harness came with mostly everything so I plan to keep most things that I can. Good call on using the fusible link, this harness also has the SARVC Stand alone regulator voltage controller. - which is integrated tot he batter cable and onnected to the ECM...I have done limited reading and will continue to read up to see if it is worth keeping or what's involved with deleting it.

Thanks for all the help!

Nice! You fj62 owners are lucky and still have dash pads available. I have to remove mine when my rust farmers dash pad gets here so i might kinda poke around in there to see what i can clean up.

you probably couldnt get the switch to work because the PCM didnt have the IAC drivers. I removed the AC stuff from my thread and have been meaning to put it back on there for a while now. Heres a few links for the AC.

Gen3 Air Conditioning

going over all info for utilizing the pcm to control a/c on a swap

lt1swap.com

There are pics in this one of what to look for for the IAC Drivers DBW to DBC Conversion 03+ Harnesses - https://lt1swap.com/cable_conversion.htm

its basically any PCM that can run a cable throttle body. Without this driver, you cant send a 12v request for the AC.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Either way, I see more long distance fishing trips in your future after you wrap this swap up!

This is definitely an understatement.

I promise.

 

[yotadude520]

I just made my AC lines using the same little hydraulic tool you probably used before, it was a pretty easy job honestly.

I bought this kit:

Universal R-134a Hose Kit

Universal R134a hose kit to run hoses for the entire system. The fittings are beadlock (US Made) with R-134a charging ports, this is a complete kit to change all the hoses on an Oring a/c system or to create new hoses for an aftermarket system. The hose kit includes the following: 6 Feet of # 6...

coldhose.com

Then this fitting for the evaporator:

# 6 M14 Straight O-ring Fitting

Female Oring Metric straight

coldhose.com

And these adapters:

Denso 10S17F 10S20F 10SE18F Suction and Discharge Compressor Adapters for Sealing Washer Compressor

GM Nippondenso (Denso) 10S17F & 10S20F & 10SE18F (Sealing Washer) compressor adapters used to convert a stock compressor to aftermarket hoses. The adapters are standard #8 discharge and #10 suction fittings. The discharge fitting has standard 3/4"-16 and the suction fitting has 7/8"-14 threads...

coldhose.com

I did swap in a universal 16x26 condenser, but I'm sure you can find the fitting size for the OEM condenser if you want to keep it. I'm running my AC compressor just like it would stock through the OEM amplifier, can share more details if you want to go that route too. I personally don't see any problems running the factory AC amplifier setup and it was crazy easy to wire up.

Been running my AC for almost a month now and It's been solid with the stock setup.

 

[huminajumina]

@dbbowen thanks for the link, and the help, that should simplify things. @yotadude520 yup, thats basically what I did before, I have a decent amount of hose, fittings and such left, so I should be able to make a lot work for this. The engine I bought has a brand new Denso A/C Compressor on it, so I plan to use it and will look at using the Denso Adapters, or possibly making Denso fittings fit some hoses, we'll see.

As for today, I was able to label all the connectors on my harness and remove it, then remove the intake, front belts, pulleys, brackets......

Pulling a GM power steering pump pulley is always a BI CH, but I was able to get it done. Turns out the PS pulley is bent so thats another thing I'll keep an eye out for, might grab one off my Dad's spare 5.3 when I go over and grab a fan.

I decided to pull the Heads and get them resurfaced, I'm going to go ahead and do piston rings and berry hone the cylinder walls......Theres this thing that happens when I don't pull an engine apart, it seems to blow up on me, so better safe than sorry.....

Everything is a mess in here today, I am going to bust out the cardboard and sharpie and organize all the parts and put all rockers, pushrods, etc in their place so I know how to reassemble everything, but until then I left everything in place

I am glad everything looks good inside and the cylinders look clean, makes it easy to berry hone the walls and seat some new rings in. I have 3 exhaust bolts broken off on each head, I am going to bust out the mig welder again to try to weld some nuts on and hopefully get them out.

 

[huminajumina]

Met up with @jkdur728 yesterday and picked up seatbelts, rearview mirror, and some gutter trim pieces. I'm sure alot of people already follow his business, but if you need landcruiser parts hit him up, good dude and he has a great business fixing, parting, selling landcruisers.

Today was another quick evening after work getting a few things knocked out... I want to get the heads clean and ready to roll to the machine shop for a quick deck job. Everything on this engine looks great and as advertised, but my superstition and history tells me to ensure its good to go prior to dropping it in.

First step was removing the 6 broken manifold bolts, 1 on each head was broken off before I bought it, the other 4 I snapped off just by looking at them.

I got the mig welder and a bunch of old nuts to weld on.

That should do....

And they all came out pretty easy, only one broke off after a few turns, and had to have a second nut welded on the the remaining bolt.

Next cleaning them up as good as I could for the machine shop. I will do a little more once they make sure the deck is good to go.

 

[huminajumina]

After that it was just getting the block ready for honing and gettting the pistons out for rings, I will check the mains with plasi gauge and make sure the bearings all look good, but the rod bearings look great so far. Just doing rings to ensure everything is good to go, but this engine looks pretty good so far.

Plenty of cleaning up to do all around but I am glad I have made good progress so far. I know it will take a little more time to put it all back together but it will be worth it in the long run. Still waiting on the Marks adapter kit to arrive any way, so why not rebuild the engine and clean it up.

 

[huminajumina]

I dropped the heads off at the machine shop on friday, so I am hoping to get a call back in the next day or two, I am just having them cleaned and decked. I bought the complete Felpro gasket set so I plan to replace as much as i can while the engine is out. You can see how rusty, dirty and old everything looks in the pics above, so I am just going through and cleaning and painting everything. I debated dropping the motor in as is and running it, because I was told it was a good running motor with 130K miles, but I know my luck!! So far everything is as advertised and looks great except for age...I did finally bite the bullet and buy a new water pump, oil pump, timing chain, I had already purchased the Swap oil pan and pickup tube, and planned to get new manifolds....so its starting to look more clean. I plan to run the existing alternator and clean up all the brackets a little.

Starting to run things throught the parts washer and degrease and knock the rust and corrosion off of everything

Oil pump off, motor mounts off and block cleaned and wire brushed.

I wire brushed and cleaned up the motor mounts then hit them with a coat of POR-15....

I also cleaned up the harmonic balancer and hit it with a coat of high gloss engine enamel, you can see my POR-15 mess from the motor mounts in the background.

 

[huminajumina]

I have been short on time lately and worked this weekend (pans for the next few) so I am trying to label and separate everything so I know whats what when it comes to reassembly time

I also pulled and labeled all senders, so I can start to figure out where the toyota senders go, and also so I can clean up and prep the block and not damage everything I need.

I also watched a Youtube video on removing the dipstick tube.... it is fed thought the manifolds and has to be removed to get the manifolds off and around the support bracket..... even in small block 350's I have never had good luck and the tube refuses to be separated from the block. Luckily I was familiar with the process and had planed ahead enough to remove the dipstick itself from the tube before crushing and mutilating it with pliers, prybars, and other various tools that will do nothing other than destroy said part.....

I ordered a new OEM one for $14 and drilled and punched it out....

New parts are starting to show up, and i'm excited to get them installed!!!!! ( new dipstick tube pictured )

 

[BurntToast]

Honestly rebuilding my LS before the swap was one of the most fun I had. LS motors are like adult legos

 

[huminajumina]

Honestly rebuilding my LS before the swap was one of the most fun I had. LS motors are like adult legos

Haha, Right????? its been fun going through everything and getting to know the condition and clean it up!!! The PO just had the 3F-E rebuild, and teh H55F swapped in, so it doesn't look to bad, so I don't wanna just slap in an old crusty 5.3. (even thought it would run fine for years to come). Or at least thats why I tell myself its ok to spend more money

 

[yotadude520]

Love to see someone else doing the LS and keeping the H55F! You might want to consider getting the 10% OD gears from Cruisermatt or swapping to 3.70 diffs from an FJ60. With the 4.11's your highway RPM's are going to be pretty high, mine run at like 3k for 90+ with the 10% OD gears.

 

[huminajumina]

Love to see someone else doing the LS and keeping the H55F! You might want to consider getting the 10% OD gears from Cruisermatt or swapping to 3.70 diffs from an FJ60. With the 4.11's your highway RPM's are going to be pretty high, mine run at like 3k for 90+ with the 10% OD gears.

Thanks, yes I’ve already been considering the OD gears haha! I think I’ll get everything together & put a few miles on it with the intention of doing the overdrive gears. I guess I could keep an eye out for a set of 60 3rd members with 3.70s but my current thought is to do the overdrive transfer case gears when I get it running.

Yea I def wanna keep the H55F & since it just got installed it makes sense! I already placed an order from cruisermatt for the motor mounts and a few other items, should have asked about the OD gears while I was on the phone.

 

[huminajumina]

Been trying to work a few hours a day after work, I am trying to stay motivated and keep working on such a big project, I don't want to delay for a few days and lose steam. The heads cam back from the machine shop earlier this week, they decked, cleaned, and said they pulled vacuum across the valves and they're in good shape. So that is good news, now I just need to do seals and springs.

I had been cleaning up the pistons, and was able to hone the block the other day. Today I put the new rings on and got the pistons back in the block, I also removed and replaced the cam. I also touched up all the surfaces and prepared them for gaskets, I also painted the block and cleaned it up some more.

I cleaned up the timing cover and valley cover, they were looking really corroded.

Heres a shot of the carbon build up on the pistons, I used a brass brush and the parts cleaner to make them look a lil better.