Builds We will name him Brutus. (2 Viewers)

[PabloCruise]

So I drove it to work. and it still just runs terribly. Its on all 6 but its still doing that thing where if youre trying to accelerate it will do a puff of air and stumble. Idles fantastically. can rev slowly no issues. but when you try to drive it just cant get out of its own way. Ive got all my spark. definitely got the compression. So I am looking at the carb I have a receipt from having freshly redone in 2018 by SOR and installed by the LC guy for camelback toyota who has since gone on his own. got the spark. I know im gettin the fuel to the carb. I know I have the compression. So now I bring into question the fuel delivery

I was chasing my tail pretty hard, as evidenced by these threads, and then I found I had a loose carb mounting stud.
I probably could have found it faster had I sprayed a little carb cleaner around the base and noticed the leak:

Real time help: stranded in grand junction, CO

So @PabloCruise is stranded in grand junction on his way to cruise moab. They are thinking fuel delivery. 1976or 78 fj40 carbed Drove fine until outside of parachute. Then started stumbling lack of power. Opened gas cap, no real change Been using ethanol free, no change Changed fuel...

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which led to:

Ignition Coil Questions - 1978 Fed Spec 40

I know there are a few coil threads out there already, I have been reading them! I am trying to figure out: What I have on my 40, If what I have is correct? And, is my coil the source of my recent troubles? Last item, if I have to replace my coil, what is a suitable replacement (OEM Toy p/n is...

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[PabloCruise]

I will give that a shot after work today. I was starting to think our 7000ft elevation was an issue.

Was the carb rebuilt for your altitude?

Look up Lean-Drop method...

 

[PabloCruise]

at 7k feet you may want even more advance.

I have heard a rough rule-of-thumb is 1 degree for each 1000' above sea level.
So you would add 7 degrees to the factory tune of 7 BTDC for a total of 14.

 

[PabloCruise]

Run a ground wire to the body of the distributor.
It shouldn't die like that I think it's not grounding correctly.
Ignition basics:
Power is provided to your coil primary winding. They're grounded by the points to the distributor.
Doing so charges the coil, as soon as the points open the field in the coil collapses and it dissipates that energy as a spark across the primary.
Maybe also run a ground strap to your engine block.
The distributor should work with the hold down removed. The symptoms you describe are more like a loss of spark than a loss of timing because an engine will run over a wide range of incorrect timing, go ahead and ask me how I know.
Hope you get it figured out

I like where Tony is going here...
Do you ever notice how many times the first step in the troubleshooting algorithm is checking for ground?

 

[PabloCruise]

The negative side of the coil is switched by the points and yes that's where the condenser is.

This is why your tach pick up attaches to the negative side.

 

[BoomerUZ]

It does not.
Grounding it will short your points so they don't (electrically) open and close. Also, current will be pulled through your coil until it overheats...
You want to tidy up the ground on the other sideof the points.
Points to points plate to distributor body, to block to a cable to the negative battery, all has to be clean, low resistance ground path, or no fun will be had.

okay so I need to move that before I try to start it. Where on the body of the distributor should I be attaching the wire. If I put it on the nut/handle that secure it I am afraid that will not have the sid connectivity I am looking for..

Yes, it looks like he put the filler neck pretty far forward.

yeah now its dead nuts. hes going to redo the entire drawing to make it less hassle to install

 

[PabloCruise]

does that post not ground the body of the distributor?

Pull out your FSM and look at the wiring schematic for ignition.
You will be proud of yourself for learning new things...

 

[BoomerUZ]

I am in the poverty I do not own a FSM. BUTTTT. Hold the flipping phone here. This is going to sound stupid. But typically when I do a cap and rotor set, I do the plugs one wire at a time to replicate the one that was on the vehicle. What I did not flipping consider. is that they had the wires on the wrong cylinders from the start.

The cap is wired so that the number on the cap is the cylinder to which it goes. Which I am finding to be inaccurate. 4 should be to cylinder one, and following up from that, correct?

 

[PabloCruise]

4 should be to cylinder one, and following up from that, correct?

I am not sure what you are saying here?
You need to verify the plug wires are running correct.
I would think if they weren't that you would not be idling...

 

[BoomerUZ]

I am not sure what you are saying here?
You need to verify the plug wires are running correct.
I would think if they weren't that you would not be idling...

The cap has numbers on it. currently the spark plug wires are routed from number on the cap, to the cylinder number. But the diagrams I am now seeing show that the #4 of the cap, should be routed to cyl 1.

 

[PabloCruise]

Something doesn't sound right there...
I have vague memories of TDC = rotor pointing at the #4 cylinder.

 

[BoomerUZ]

Something doesn't sound right there...
I have vague memories of TDC = rotor pointing at the #4 cylinder.

'76 2F Distributor wire order

I accidentally pulled 3 wires off the distributor while cleaning years of grime. The firing order is supposed to be 1-5-3-6-2-4 but my first 3 cylinders are in this order. 4-6-5. I never pulled those and the rig runs great. So which distributor points to cylinders 4-5-6 go to? Thanks, Bonehead!

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this is referencing them to be not corresponding to the number on the cap. currently looking for a good picture of someones engine to reference. but the parts catalog shows them to be wired differently than mine have been.

 

[Pighead]

Dunno about a GOOD picture...
My TDC #1 rotor position

 

[BoomerUZ]

Dunno about a GOOD picture...
My TDC #1 rotor position

View attachment 3716165

View attachment 3716167

That is vastly different to mine..... When I see the little dot in the window its about where your bottom left screw hole is to be at #4 on my cap.

 

[Pighead]

More recent, with wires

 

[Pighead]

That is vastly different to mine..... When I see the little dot in the window its about where your bottom left screw hole is to be at #4 on my cap.

Have you suddenly lost the ability to take pictures? Your descriptions often make little sense to me. I showed you mine, now show us yours
It looks different because it's a different distributor. It's still a LandCruiser distributor and the rotor position and plugwires are correct.

 

[bobm]

You can download FSM on here somewhere.

 

[BoomerUZ]

Have you suddenly lost the ability to take pictures? Your descriptions often make little sense to me. I showed you mine, now show us yours
It looks different because it's a different distributor. It's still a LandCruiser distributor and the rotor position and plugwires are correct.

I did because I drove it to my work which is 20 miles away - and since its a sunday and I work at a dealership they are closed. I am going to go there anyway and try to get some pictures and match my wires to the above photos because I can 100% say the 3 & 4 on my engine are swapped to that. I just came inside from loading the lexus on a trailer because I traded it for another vehicle to daily in the meantime of all this.

 

[bobm]

This might help. From Haynes manual

And the firing order #1 should be pointed at #4 cylinder. Vaccuum should be around 18.

 

[BoomerUZ]

wires were correct. I added ground wire to the body of the distributor via the clasp screw. Filed the points and adjusted them. Ran well while I adjusted the timing. Got it where it will rev up but again running poorly. Not coughing out the carb anymore, but just generally running like its starving for gas.