Builds We will name him Brutus. (5 Viewers)

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So whats the witchcraft needed to get this damn tank out? everything is unhooked. but it catches on EVERYTHING. if its not the sway bar perches, its the shackle bolts, the filler neck stick out piece, the angular braces for the rear bumper, and everything in-between. I can already say I am heavily leaning towards fuel cell just so I dont have to put this dang thing back in there. Im about to lose my marbles
 
My 74 tank didn’t fight too hard, I think I had one shackle nut off or such to get it down?
 
its out. but tanks in amazing shape. i put the acetone in and shook it, definitely has rocks, like actual pebbles and stuff. Got some out, but im not messin with putting this thing back in there. Anyone wanna trade the stock tank w/ spare tire brace and stuff for one of the stupidly overpriced fuel cells?? LOL

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Plenty of people been looking for oem tanks. You could probably sell it and that would partially fund a custom tank. I had mine made per a drawing I prepared for $500. But that was pre-covid price so it's probably a million bucks now.
 
Try a place like this. It says marine but no reason they can't make you a box. If you fill out all your needs it gives you a price. At least some idea of what you are in for.

 
Plenty of people been looking for oem tanks. You could probably sell it and that would partially fund a custom tank. I had mine made per a drawing I prepared for $500. But that was pre-covid price so it's probably a million bucks now.
do you happen to still have the drawing handy?? Or even the same people you got yours from - since youre in CA and im in AZ it might be fairly reasonable.

If I cant get something sorted out soon I will be forced to use the stock tank and fight the dang thing back in there but I really would rather go aftermarket and less dramas.
 
upon further inspection, and cleaning with the vinegar. The chunks in the tank are actually rubber - its from the original filler neck rotting to pieces inside it. currently fuel cell shopping lol
 
upon further inspection, and cleaning with the vinegar. The chunks in the tank are actually rubber - its from the original filler neck rotting to pieces inside it. currently fuel cell shopping lol
Seems like an easy fix if that's all it is.
If you do get an aftermarket tank you'll need to relocate your spare (goodbye precious cargo space) and you'll also probably want to put some sort of skid plate protection around the tank.

Just yesterday I Dropped my ass on a rock really really hard. My spare tire took the hit without damage. Had I put a low hanging gas tank down there I'd have probably cracked it. Whatever you do, take into account that you'll probably want some protection down there.
 
Seems like an easy fix if that's all it is.
If you do get an aftermarket tank you'll need to relocate your spare (goodbye precious cargo space) and you'll also probably want to put some sort of skid plate protection around the tank.

Just yesterday I Dropped my ass on a rock really really hard. My spare tire took the hit without damage. Had I put a low hanging gas tank down there I'd have probably cracked it. Whatever you do, take into account that you'll probably want some protection down there.
I emailed over to Tankandbarrel.com mob to see what a tank would be and currently in negotiations lol long term plan was a tire carrier bumper anyway, so now I just have more reason to get my ass in gear. From my 68 Corona, I had similar issues with the stock tank and ended up going to a fuel cell in that and had zero issues for the rest of the time I owned it. I am a man who is fond of fix it once, not fix it 100 times to maintain originality (learned that with the british cars trying to tune SUs before tossed those for 801 cannon intake with side draft weber)
 
I emailed over to Tankandbarrel.com mob to see what a tank would be and currently in negotiations lol long term plan was a tire carrier bumper anyway, so now I just have more reason to get my ass in gear. From my 68 Corona, I had similar issues with the stock tank and ended up going to a fuel cell in that and had zero issues for the rest of the time I owned it. I am a man who is fond of fix it once, not fix it 100 times to maintain originality (learned that with the british cars trying to tune SUs before tossed those for 801 cannon intake with side draft weber)
This isn't a British car and should not be compared with one. Nothing compares with an old British car. The Landcruiser is an extremely reliable and robust. Generally the original equipment works extremely well for a very long time, and can be overhauled. There's a lot of advantages to keeping things as designed. As difficult as that tank is to remove. I'd be inclined to use the original just because aftermarket stuff doesn't ever quite fit right and will generally leave you with new problems, which likely will result in a very poor, custom fit. I've seen it all, from leaking welds, exhausts rubbing on the tank, deteriorated and kinked filler hoses. Fuel outlets with no protection from road debris, driveline... Rubber lines not rated for fuel, which may actually be what caused this misery in the first place.
Real gasoline proof rubber filler hose is rather expensive and people, including shops, often cheap out and use a radiator hose. Be careful, it's a big can o worms.
 
Aftermarket tanks are great, you don't need to hold up the group because you need to refuel every couple hours of diving and no more worries of rust. Screw OEM, Toyota isn't the greatest thing on earth. Car manufacturers are out to make money just like everybody else and some of their ideas aren't geared towards longevity. Have one made to your specs. and move on.
 
This isn't a British car and should not be compared with one. Nothing compares with an old British car. The Landcruiser is an extremely reliable and robust. Generally the original equipment works extremely well for a very long time, and can be overhauled. There's a lot of advantages to keeping things as designed. As difficult as that tank is to remove. I'd be inclined to use the original just because aftermarket stuff doesn't ever quite fit right and will generally leave you with new problems, which likely will result in a very poor, custom fit. I've seen it all, from leaking welds, exhausts rubbing on the tank, deteriorated and kinked filler hoses. Fuel outlets with no protection from road debris, driveline... Rubber lines not rated for fuel, which may actually be what caused this misery in the first place.
Real gasoline proof rubber filler hose is rather expensive and people, including shops, often cheap out and use a radiator hose. Be careful, it's a big can o worms.


Im not sure how your exhaust is on yours, but mine is the original one and its a muffler in the drivers side rocker, and exits before the rear tire. As for the fuel outlets not being protected, neither is the original one. My filler neck was the original one, and I have another OEM one from a member here, as well as an aftermarket spare. Almost everything you described is poor installation, not poor craftsmanship of the aftermarket options. As for fuel lines, i only use polytetrafluoroethylene lines when I run new fuel systems, I dont mess with rubber and other inferior materials - its heat/flame resistant, chemical resistant, dielectric, no aging or embrittlement, and even used in medical/food grade applications - heck they make hip joints out of it for arthroplasty. Is the OEM hoses of equal quality, or would you agree that aftermarket is better?

Aftermarket tanks are great, you don't need to hold up the group because you need to refuel every couple hours of diving and no more worries of rust. Screw OEM, Toyota isn't the greatest thing on earth. Car manufacturers are out to make money just like everybody else and some of their ideas aren't geared towards longevity. Have one made to your specs. and move on.


For me its similar, I live remotely and just dont want to mess around with a lot of that stuff. Typically tanks of this era have that brazed pickup tube inside, and if that gets messed up or starts leaking the tanks shot without rebuilt, whereas aftermarket is usually sumped and no dramas, gravity doesnt spring leaks lol Heck I work for toyota and still shop at aftermarket stuff. If OEM is best, clearly these guys havnt looked at the tailgate latches on the new tundras, or the seat shields on the new tundras, or the 3rd brake lights on the last generation tacoma, or the last generation highlander front bumpers losing the lower panel while driving, or the 20TA02 recall of the low pressure fuel pumps in MILLIONS of vehicles - I dont think deatschwerks ever recalled their pumps lol


Automakers dont make life long customers out of bullet proofing. But aftermarket companies reputations cant take the hit and still have business.

A perfect example of this can be seen from the land cruiser fuel pumps. Went from a consumer friendly serviceable valve, to a punched into the pot metal non-serviceable part requiring the purchase of an entire pump instead of inexpensive valves. I will absolutely die on the hill that toyota makes the best cars, and even some of the best engines ever produced - but I will never back their poor choices (like that stupid fold down spoiler on the front of the new tundras, or going away from V8s 🤮🤮. Needed more power, not less.)
 
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Im not sure how your exhaust is on yours, but mine is the original one and its a muffler in the drivers side rocker, and exits before the rear tire. As for the fuel outlets not being protected, neither is the original one. My filler neck was the original one, and I have another OEM one from a member here, as well as an aftermarket spare. Almost everything you described is poor installation, not poor craftsmanship of the aftermarket options. As for fuel lines, i only use polytetrafluoroethylene lines when I run new fuel systems, I dont mess with rubber and other inferior materials - its heat/flame resistant, chemical resistant, dielectric, no aging or embrittlement, and even used in medical/food grade applications - heck they make hip joints out of it for arthroplasty. Is the OEM hoses of equal quality, or would you agree that aftermarket is better?




For me its similar, I live remotely and just dont want to mess around with a lot of that stuff. Typically tanks of this era have that brazed pickup tube inside, and if that gets messed up or starts leaking the tanks shot without rebuilt, whereas aftermarket is usually sumped and no dramas, gravity doesnt spring leaks lol Heck I work for toyota and still shop at aftermarket stuff. If OEM is best, clearly these guys havnt looked at the tailgate latches on the new tundras, or the seat shields on the new tundras, or the 3rd brake lights on the last generation tacoma, or the last generation highlander front bumpers losing the lower panel while driving, or the 20TA02 recall of the low pressure fuel pumps in MILLIONS of vehicles - I dont think deatschwerks ever recalled their pumps lol


Automakers dont make life long customers out of bullet proofing. But aftermarket companies reputations cant take the hit and still have business.

A perfect example of this can be seen from the land cruiser fuel pumps. Went from a consumer friendly serviceable valve, to a punched into the pot metal non-serviceable part requiring the purchase of an entire pump instead of inexpensive valves. I will absolutely die on the hill that toyota makes the best cars, and even some of the best engines ever produced - but I will never back their poor choices (like that stupid fold down spoiler on the front of the new tundras, or going away from V8s 🤮🤮. Needed more power, not less.)
To clarify.
These problems I list are things I've seen on all makes and models of car. Do the work yourself and you stand the best chance of success. As for a stock FJ55 fuel tank, the lines are certainly out of the way.
Most if them attach above the frame rail.
I'd replicate that in my new design.
 
Well. I didnt wanna but I called in a favor of a really good friend of mine who is shop manager at a structural and architectural steel place I used to work at - I sent him a ton of pictures of where the tank sits, all the measurements, and monday when he gets back to the office will draw it up and verify the critical measurements with me (original filler neck, fuel level sender, and mounting flange) and he is going to give me a quote for steel, aluminum and stainless. The website provided above quote came out around 1200$, ATI said about 1000$ - and he thinks we can beat that. So we will have a US made, and available tank for less than half the price of the 55 gallon one from australia.
 
All progress is on hold until I get the new tank. drawing will be finalized on monday, and I will be able to have them duplicated if anyone is interested.
 
In case you were wondering what made my tank removal so hard, this thing. Welded to the bumper, which is riveted, and then the bolts in the back hold the rear but since the rest is fixed taking the bolts out does nothing to move it outta the way lol

Also went through some of my stuff today. And I have a bunch of spares I dont think im going to need. like. Sun visors (i have the roll cage so I couldnt even get to where they mount to put them in if I wanted to), extra cluster, blower motor, rear hatch plate that the motor for the window mounts to, various bits and bobs. no clue what any of this stuffs for.


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flippin 60$ in spray rust converter and biz later. I got the roof, and the rollcage painted. I also removed most of the crusty ol headliner. The bows are there from the headliner, but I just left them idk what to do with them. Cleaning out the crap in the car and trying to get it ready for when the tanks ready.


(( ignore that its being used as a storage unit ))


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