Malleus
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Vehicle Lifts: 2-post, 4-post, etc (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Waorani
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- Thread starter
- #82
How not to use your lift.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Yikes!
When I was about 19 I did about the same thing with a Bumpside highboy. I have to laugh a bit because it didn't hurt the Ford. The fenders and besides held the 6500 lb truck up no problem lol.
- Thread starter
- #85
After a couple years of back and forth trying to center vehicles under lift I finally got around to installing a laser center line. Don't remember who initially posted the idea but available for $25-40 on ebay - 10mW Green Laser 532nm.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Very nice. Assume that laser needs a 120v power source? Or is it battery powered and the wire goes to a switch?
I shared this a while back. 10k asymmetrical low profile Bendpak. eBay green laser is brighter and more visible in daylight then red. Under $43 delivered. I also made frame cradles from 3/8” CR. Another modification I did was to add a support shelf under the plastic reservoir.
The tape gets me lined up as I approach the bay, The green laser gets me on target.
A simple aluminum bracket.
Other improvement to the Bend-pak was custom made cradles for supporting framed vehicles.
I've shared this before, but since this is a dedicated thread for lifts, it should be a helpful reminder for anyone interested. The reservoirs found on most lifts are either thin stamped steel or plastic. Four small cap screws secure it to the pump. A bump into the reservoir can result in a big mess not to mention a new part. A simple solution.
The tape gets me lined up as I approach the bay, The green laser gets me on target.
A simple aluminum bracket.
Other improvement to the Bend-pak was custom made cradles for supporting framed vehicles.
I've shared this before, but since this is a dedicated thread for lifts, it should be a helpful reminder for anyone interested. The reservoirs found on most lifts are either thin stamped steel or plastic. Four small cap screws secure it to the pump. A bump into the reservoir can result in a big mess not to mention a new part. A simple solution.
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Other recommendations for keeping things safe are stands. A minimum of four for larger rigs when removing heavy components that shift the CG. The only modification these HF stands needed were 3/16" thick round feet.
A telescoping transmission jack is also handy under a lift. Keeping scrap in a 5 gallon pail comes in handy when making bolt on jigs for pulling axels, transmissions. and transfer cases.
Some examples of those jigs made for pulling awkward components.
This same axel jig can be used on GM 1500-3500 rigs.
This transfer case jig is stupid simple but holds the same angle needed to reinstall without drama while working alone. The scrap pieces came out a 5 gallon pail with no further modifications other than welding together.
This jig supports a transfer case from 1500-3500 GM.
I really appreciate owning this lift. It has saved my back and time.
An example of multiple stands in use. Not because removing the fuel tank would change the CG, but because of the support needed for the rear axel. Another situation I used stands is when I need to really yank hard to break a bolt loose and don't want any vehicle rock. Two post lifts will kill you quick so if in doubt, use stands and a lot of common sense.
A telescoping transmission jack is also handy under a lift. Keeping scrap in a 5 gallon pail comes in handy when making bolt on jigs for pulling axels, transmissions. and transfer cases.
Some examples of those jigs made for pulling awkward components.
This same axel jig can be used on GM 1500-3500 rigs.
This transfer case jig is stupid simple but holds the same angle needed to reinstall without drama while working alone. The scrap pieces came out a 5 gallon pail with no further modifications other than welding together.
This jig supports a transfer case from 1500-3500 GM.
I really appreciate owning this lift. It has saved my back and time.
An example of multiple stands in use. Not because removing the fuel tank would change the CG, but because of the support needed for the rear axel. Another situation I used stands is when I need to really yank hard to break a bolt loose and don't want any vehicle rock. Two post lifts will kill you quick so if in doubt, use stands and a lot of common sense.
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This bend pack four post lift requires shop air (20 psi) to unlock the pawls. I installed this lift for a neighbor so I was able to use my Fork lift to stage and install.
After wiring it up and ops checking for proper operation, It required shop air to release the locking pawls. I had an idea for a pressure storage vessel that would allow him to charge the 3 gallon reservoir and unlock his lift many times over between charges. Notice the bracket on the post opposite of the pump.
I started out with a 34" length of 6" schedule ten and grooved both ends.
I then cut two blank flanges from 3/16" plate to cap both ends. The top flange got three machined nipples with 1/4 NPT threads and the bottom got one centered (drain).
The nipples were welded from the bottom side (inside) and were machines with a shoulder. Tig welded all four nipples, and burned in the blank flanges with a MIG. The top will get a regulator, pressure gauge, and service Schrader valve. The bottom is the drain for a 1/4 turn ball valve.
After wiring it up and ops checking for proper operation, It required shop air to release the locking pawls. I had an idea for a pressure storage vessel that would allow him to charge the 3 gallon reservoir and unlock his lift many times over between charges. Notice the bracket on the post opposite of the pump.
I started out with a 34" length of 6" schedule ten and grooved both ends.
I then cut two blank flanges from 3/16" plate to cap both ends. The top flange got three machined nipples with 1/4 NPT threads and the bottom got one centered (drain).
The nipples were welded from the bottom side (inside) and were machines with a shoulder. Tig welded all four nipples, and burned in the blank flanges with a MIG. The top will get a regulator, pressure gauge, and service Schrader valve. The bottom is the drain for a 1/4 turn ball valve.
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The machined bungs.
Pressure test.
Welding the mounting bracket.
The bolt pattern and bracket size matches the the bracket on the post.
Some paint and install. It works great! Holds pressure and he gets between 30-36 cycles between charges.
Air pressure regulator has a slide vale (blue color) that allows pressure to the mushroom valve to unlock the pawls. All airline fitting are the DOT push style.
This was a fun and functional modification.
Pressure test.
Welding the mounting bracket.
The bolt pattern and bracket size matches the the bracket on the post.
Some paint and install. It works great! Holds pressure and he gets between 30-36 cycles between charges.
Air pressure regulator has a slide vale (blue color) that allows pressure to the mushroom valve to unlock the pawls. All airline fitting are the DOT push style.
This was a fun and functional modification.
- Thread starter
- #91
Yep, 5V 1A power adapter from 120 outlet. Be nice if it would run off battery and may experiment sometime but 1 amp adapter suggests it has a pretty good draw.
I used a magnetic power strip (on the slave post) with a on/off switch to power the laser. You can purchase an extension from eBay that uses a RC style jack to help keep things clean.
- Thread starter
- #93
Between the laser and the power adapter you only have maybe 8-10 ft of cord so you need some kind of extension as mentioned above. I happened to have some 5V adapters/extension cables from old security cameras. Connectors were different so I clipped the end off the laser cord and spliced on an extension cable that is long enough to reach half way down one of the posts and from there I can reach an outlet on the wall with the cord length on the adapter. When not in use the adapter is stowed away and the extension just hangs down out of the way on the post.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
It's 12' to the wall in front of my lift. I assume you could also just mount the laser on the wall?
- Thread starter
- #95
Should work. May have to experiment with height so lift cross bar isn't blocking beam where you need it. Probably don't want to be looking straight at laser so that might also be a consideration.
Will also note that the line gets harder to see in bright light. I had my doors open but lights off when I took the pics above. That could be more of an issue the further away the laser is from where you need to see the line.
- Thread starter
- #96
Lift porn.
I’ll play along!
The Bendpak XPR-10A-LP is a certified 10k lb. Asymmetric Low profile lift.
I’ve seen some lifts require a floor jack (prejack) to lift say a Corvette for the lift arms to clear prior to lifting. Not a big deal, but somewhat a hassle IMO. The Asymmetric design (10 A) also allows the vehicles doors to open a bit more for egress/ ingress clearance. The LP (low profile) eliminates the nonsensical pre lift on most modern sports or sedans with ground effects. I also mounted the posts wider than most by 3” (wide configuration) for those larger rigs.
Ample door space between the post and door on this Ford.
This special edition Z/28 required no prejack to be lifted. The GS 430 shown also required no prejack.
This F-350 has plenty of door clearance.
And the 40 with its narrow frame by comparison.
The Duramax getting a new water pump. Removing the tires gets the lifted rig closer to the ground for improved access. Then the tires can be rotated as well. The over the top creeper you see to the right is also handy and compliments the lift.
I share this because a lot of time was put into research when choosing a lift for my needs. For anyone contemplating a lift, I hope this helps. Also, I was able to join a “Group buy” on a different forum and scored this lift for $2,600 delivered.
Look hard and you might find a deal on the lift that suits your needs.
I can tell you one thing for certain, at 60, I sure appreciate this equipment as much as the fork lift. Without this kind of support equipment, I would have hung it up and be at the mercy of others.
Have a stellar weekend fellas!
The Bendpak XPR-10A-LP is a certified 10k lb. Asymmetric Low profile lift.
I’ve seen some lifts require a floor jack (prejack) to lift say a Corvette for the lift arms to clear prior to lifting. Not a big deal, but somewhat a hassle IMO. The Asymmetric design (10 A) also allows the vehicles doors to open a bit more for egress/ ingress clearance. The LP (low profile) eliminates the nonsensical pre lift on most modern sports or sedans with ground effects. I also mounted the posts wider than most by 3” (wide configuration) for those larger rigs.
Ample door space between the post and door on this Ford.
This special edition Z/28 required no prejack to be lifted. The GS 430 shown also required no prejack.
This F-350 has plenty of door clearance.
And the 40 with its narrow frame by comparison.
The Duramax getting a new water pump. Removing the tires gets the lifted rig closer to the ground for improved access. Then the tires can be rotated as well. The over the top creeper you see to the right is also handy and compliments the lift.
I share this because a lot of time was put into research when choosing a lift for my needs. For anyone contemplating a lift, I hope this helps. Also, I was able to join a “Group buy” on a different forum and scored this lift for $2,600 delivered.
Look hard and you might find a deal on the lift that suits your needs.
I can tell you one thing for certain, at 60, I sure appreciate this equipment as much as the fork lift. Without this kind of support equipment, I would have hung it up and be at the mercy of others.
Have a stellar weekend fellas!
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WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Curious how high the arms are at their lowest? My Rotary SPOA10 asymmetric with the trio arms needs 4.25" of clearance. One reference I found for your lift also said 4.25" but I couldn't be certain if that was for the LP - but it appeared to be. FWIW, the C8 Corvette has 5.3" of clearance. Just measured my wife's GT500 and it has ~5.5" of clearance. I haven't had reason to put her's on the lift yet but I guess it will work just fine.
That's a great price for that lift. I paid more than 2x that for my Rotary. Of course that was a just a year ago, post all the pandemic price hikes. Great looking shop. Hope to get mine that organized soon.
The XPR-10A-LP has a minimum pad height of 3-1/2”/89mm. The reference you found with 4.25” min height most likely has the screw pad adjustment feature ( nice feature).
Access to a lathe opens many possibilities for custom applications vs buying from the manufacturer. They ask way too much money for cradles and spacers.
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Has anyone else with asymmetric lifts cut the longer arms down a few inches to make lifting 40’s and 60’s easier?
