Builds Utah... the "new blue" - the unforeseen build

[2fpower]

Once again, @tornadoalleycruiser came to my rescue with a new 80 master, and after what seemed like too long bench bleeding, got it all in and working. Should also note that my daughter came out and helped with the brake bleeding, which was awesome to have her in the garage. Building a car, family style, is the way to do it!

No pictures as I left my phone in the house; however, got a bunch of wires cleaned up, new ends soldered on, wire loom added after tearing off miles of failing electrical tape.

One question for the GM guys out there. On the starter, there is the main battery terminal and two other terminals. One went to the starter switched hot wire, the other went nowhere. What is that second post for?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

It's to energize the points in older distributors. On a GM car prior to 1974 (HEI), the ignition switch would only power the starter - not the distributor. When the solenoid is engaged, it powers that terminal - which goes to the distributor. Once you release the key, on those cars, it gets its power from the other, lower voltage wire (there's a ballast to reduce the amount of current that goes to the points to keep them from burning out).

Some of the newer, high-torque/gear-reduction starters don't have a second terminal

 

[2fpower]

Wealth of knowledge as usual, @SuperBuickGuy . Makes sense, as prior owner upgraded this to Edelbrock Fuel injection, Mallory ignition, so it likely would have been clipped at that time. There is a newer wire going to the coil positive from a relay connected to the computer brain.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the saying "an expert is one who has made all the mistakes" would be an apt description of me. Glad to put the experience to more positive use (bonus pun there too).

 

[2fpower]

More progress last night, first thing was to get rid of the SMURF conduit that had the wiring harness that went to the rear of the vehicle and deposit it in the round file cabinet.

Then bent up some new lines for the vacuum transfer case lines that I mounted near the battery box

Then got the rest of the engine put back together -- no loose wires to figure out... Yeah!!.

And then was able to start putting panels back on. If you recall from pages ago I extended the hinges to allow the Tailgate to drop out and down further. Only after I installed that I realized I need to get longer cables. Doh!

 

[2fpower]

I forgot to post up the picture of the installed master. Think I'll call this the master PIA, for all the time it took.

I also got the ARB line run to the rear axle, and lots of other little cleanup items done.

Try to work on some of the wiring today, then wait for the exhaust parts

 

[2fpower]

Looky. Shiney things.

 

[2fpower]

I am a sucker that loves a great deal, so I have to post that those two exhaust parts above were about half price on amazon warehouse deals. Someone bought them, then returned them to amazon. They were listed as having "surface imperfections". Why should anyone care on something that you have to weld on that is going to be exposed to the elements and hidden from view if it had any surface scratches? Anyway, next time you want some high end exhaust parts, check out amazon warehouse.

As a final note, that V clamp is a piece of artwork. Shame it has to be under the car.

 

[2fpower]

More parts. Heat riser deletes came in

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

looking good. keep up the progress. should only need one heat riser, other side should just take a gasket. Or should i say only need one heat riser delete.

 

[jim land]

yep ,no heat riser on driver side , just on the passenger side

 

[2fpower]

Man, I am not too bright. I even got in touch with ecklers customer service, and they sold me two of them.

Darn.

 

[2fpower]

@jim land @SuperBuickGuy @tornadoalleycruiser

Clearly, I have no idea what I am doing here. So tried to put the delete in, but the studs are not long enough. So, went to the parts store, and the longest stud I could find did not seem long enough to go through the thin gasket, the delete, the taper gasket, then to the exhaust downpipe with that collar thing (see pic below) -- that is driver side, but gives you an image of the exhaust connection.

Am I looking for regular studs, or do I need those long stud/ bolts with springs on them?

3/8 16 studs, found kit with the long one 3 1/4 inch long.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Classic Industries | Restoration Parts | Mopar Parts | Camaro Parts | Firebird Parts | Nova Parts | Impala Parts | GM Truck Parts | Tri-Five Chevy Parts
trying to find a picture..

@Texican his pirate info Tech contest Vee Eight Xhaust - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
the man the legend can probably answer it better than most.. He has probably forgotten more about cruisers than i even know.

 

[2fpower]

nice link there. I will post up for the next person who needs color by number like me.

Crossover pipe, Walker part no 42087 OEM application is 58-66 Chevy pickup with a 283 engine.

Delete, or spacer goes on passenger side, or on both sides if you need more clearance from aftermarket pan.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

no.
On the picture you have the exhaust donut seals between the pipe and the manifold. Those springs go between the flanges to allow the pipe some movement. It does have me puzzled a bit though..... normally speaking the riser goes on the passenger side along with the springs. Yours looks like the springs go on the driver's side and bolts solid to the passenger side... if you use that stainless, exhaust hose you don't need the springs and you will get leaks if you use both.

Let me see if I can find some pictures in my stash or online.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Here's a picture of how the springs work

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the beggers at Super Chevy don't actually show this with the exhaust pipe, but you'll get the idea that without the springs, there's no way the pipe stays attached.

 

[jim land]

this is driver side , the donut slip at the tip of the crosspipe , ( it was loose fitting on that pic , it should be square)

 

[2fpower]

Well, this exhaust stuff is for the birds. I am getting sooooooo frustrated. Should have just cut and welded it up.

Ends up that I need that spacer on both sides, otherwise the crossover pipe hits the oil pan. I will count myself lucky then that I bought two. I want this done, so went to NAPA and they had 4" studs, so got 6 of them coming. $7 each. Sucks, but I want this done. FYI, the studs are 3/8 16 on the short side and 3/8 24 on the long side, so got another set of nuts too.

With any luck I will get this mocked up tonight.