Builds Utah... the "new blue" - the unforeseen build
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2fpower
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- #222
Very good observation..... was planning on trimming them to fit; however, now I have to think about keeping it.
that reminds me of a story I read years ago, and the salute one neighbor gave another.....
Is it art or the one-finger salute?
that reminds me of a story I read years ago, and the salute one neighbor gave another.....
Is it art or the one-finger salute?
2fpower
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- #223
Got some time on the exhaust, coming together pretty good. With the spacer on both sides the crossover misses the oil pan by about an inch on the bottom and about half an inch on the side.
Question to the knowledgeable ones out there, It appears that I can mount the O2 sensor anywhere on the top half of the exhaust pipe about 5 to 7 inches past the merge of the two sides. Does that sound correct?
Question to the knowledgeable ones out there, It appears that I can mount the O2 sensor anywhere on the top half of the exhaust pipe about 5 to 7 inches past the merge of the two sides. Does that sound correct?
the hotter the exhaust, the better the O2 sensor will read. It does not need both sides exhaust to get an accurate reading. Ideally, you'll put the O2 sensor 1 or 2" under the manifold flange on the side easiest to keep the wires from cooking under normal operation (read, usually passenger side). This is from memory, but I think the maximum distance is 12" from the manifold beyond that there is too much condensation and the exhaust temps are too low. I've run lots of cars off just one header tube - if you do that, you want the one furthest from the fuel (1,7, 2 or 8)
2fpower
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- #226
@SuperBuickGuy good information. In the pic below, the original location was about where the blue arrow is, and it was at the bottom half of the pipe, with a little angle iron on frame to protect it. I was planning on putting it at the red arrow at about 1:00 position, so just off the TDC of the pipe. I will see if I can move it to somewhere near the orange arrow; however, as these are ram horns, not headers, that would be right in the center of the engine on the 3 and 5 cylinders.
don't ever install it like that - it will catch moisture.
as far as your arrows, where the orange arrow is or even closer to the manifold. Keep in mind, GM installs them in the cast iron collector of the manifold. Of course, that's nearest number 8 - so yours is a bit different.... what's important is it stays warm enough, you can't melt it with exhaust gasses. Also, they put it close to keep the soot down... the further downstream the sooner it will need replacement.
as far as your arrows, where the orange arrow is or even closer to the manifold. Keep in mind, GM installs them in the cast iron collector of the manifold. Of course, that's nearest number 8 - so yours is a bit different.... what's important is it stays warm enough, you can't melt it with exhaust gasses. Also, they put it close to keep the soot down... the further downstream the sooner it will need replacement.
to bleed the power steering, jack the front end up while not running, tires off the ground, slowly turn lock to lock while checking fluid. Trying to bleed while running may foam fluid and cause excess pressure which may blow a seal. Only time this didn't work is on Jenn's Camaro with a new system. Then it took a major blip of the throttle to get fluid into the box.. Foamy but it got there. Might take a while for all the bubbles to rise to the top. You installed a magnefine filter and possible cooler?
Magnefine 3/8 Inch Magnetic Inline Power Steering Filter
avail on rock auto and ebay.
Magnefine 3/8 Inch Magnetic Inline Power Steering Filter
avail on rock auto and ebay.
2fpower
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- #232
Well good. Before I started it, I filled up the fluid and went rack to rack a dozen times
Someone I know told me to put a cooler like this in. We'll see how long it takes to get all the bubbles out. (thanks @tornadoalleycruiser )
Can't tell from the picture; however it sits about 1 1/2 from the fender.
Someone I know told me to put a cooler like this in. We'll see how long it takes to get all the bubbles out. (thanks @tornadoalleycruiser )
Can't tell from the picture; however it sits about 1 1/2 from the fender.
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2fpower
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- #233
Got most of the wiring sorted out, including getting the ARB compressor Wired. One of the solenoids was not working but I was able to take apart and clean it and it works fine now. Is there some sort of filter that goes on the top of that unit?
I need to replace all the wiring for the headlights as the eBay harness wire is just falling apart.
I need to replace all the wiring for the headlights as the eBay harness wire is just falling apart.
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2fpower
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- #234
I only have one wire going to the fuel tank sender unit, I'm pretty sure I should have a ground strap going to one of the side screws. My real question is what I see two terminals one in the center and one off about 1/2 inch -- which one gets the wire to the gauge?
Didn't i hand you a spare arb solenoid? Pretty sure ignition to fuel gauge, gauge to center of sending unit, ground from side of sending unit to frame.
2fpower
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- #237
Decided to work on the rear tail lights to get the wiring all finished up. In my custom bumper I want to use the original 67 -68 smaller brake lights. Problem is using the original incandescent bulb, the housing was too deep to fit in my 1 3/4 inch deep bumper. I want to use LED anyway but then the problem was the 3 inch lens (with 2 1/2" of real space) would not allow any standard 4" brake/turn light. Recall that you need to have a light that is dim on Park and then brighter for brake or turn, so this ended up being a big rabbit hole. Was going to make my own setup with some diodes and other gobblely gook electrical parts. Well, was searching ebay and finally found some small LED units for motorcycles that seem to fit the bill. Hope that they are bright enough. First thing was to adapt the housing.
Welding in little scrap of stainless steel to except the bolt on the back of the new LED light
I guess it was pretty boring work, put the dog to sleep.
Welding in little scrap of stainless steel to except the bolt on the back of the new LED light
I guess it was pretty boring work, put the dog to sleep.
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2fpower
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- #238
I have too much play in the Pitman arm tire rod. The motion is in the tapered area, not in the ball. I did not think you typically had to put a taper shim in this area. I did not think this was changed by the prior owner, so someone surprised. Can anyone identify the problem? I need to call Kurt At cruiser outfitters.
Hola!
I'm not sure what end that Cruiser had but there are one of many that can be used a the Pitman, the most common being CJ5 or FZJ80. the CJ5 won't require reaming the pitman assuming its the correct pitman. The pitman could have started as a 3/4T or 1T pitman and thus is already bigger than the CJ5. OR, that drag-link end could be a stock Toyota which starts with a shank slightly smaller than the 1/2T GM/Jeep and thus could result in play as the taper is too large and it's a different degree. The only way to know for certain is to measure the threads on that end and see if they are metric (17x1.5) or 11/16". We stock em all.
I'm not sure what end that Cruiser had but there are one of many that can be used a the Pitman, the most common being CJ5 or FZJ80. the CJ5 won't require reaming the pitman assuming its the correct pitman. The pitman could have started as a 3/4T or 1T pitman and thus is already bigger than the CJ5. OR, that drag-link end could be a stock Toyota which starts with a shank slightly smaller than the 1/2T GM/Jeep and thus could result in play as the taper is too large and it's a different degree. The only way to know for certain is to measure the threads on that end and see if they are metric (17x1.5) or 11/16". We stock em all.
