yeah you were also doing more than just a engine swap.
My LS arrived and already started to tear it down replace water pump and tensioner a... would you happen to have the ewd for your 91 or did you use 93/94? Thanks
Builds Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter White Stripe
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yeah you were also doing more than just a engine swap.
My LS arrived and already started to tear it down replace water pump and tensioner a... would you happen to have the ewd for your 91 or did you use 93/94? Thanks
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- #282
I don't anymore. You might be able to get a limited all data or tis subscription and get it from their. I think some mud members have other resources for wiring diagrams as well. You could ask @jonheldyeah you were also doing more than just a engine swap.
My LS arrived and already started to tear it down replace water pump and tensioner a... would you happen to have the ewd for your 91 or did you use 93/94? Thanks
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- Thread starter
- #283
Found a couple issues: Been having trouble with very low idle. I replaced the iac but that didnt seem to fix it. Turns out cheap aftermarket iac motors for the LS cause issues. Replaced with OEM and is better now. Also engaging the ac has less affect on idle quality now but I still want to connect the ecu ac compressor pin.
Also found that when I'm pushing the engine very hard up a big mountain pass with a trailer that the heat from the headers kills the Toyota oil pressure sensor. Need to put heat shielding around it.
My idle is set too low for the mechanical fan to cool, needs to be at 650 or a bit more, right now idle is at 550 and temps creep up at idle.
By momentarily grounding pin 71 you can engage a second set of shift parameters for towing. Would like to wire this up. Need to contact my ECU flash guy as to what parameters are loaded for this. I also would like the main shift parameters to be modified. It is really lazy to downshift to 1st gear.
The trans tunnel has been getting pretty warm, the crossover pipe gets close to the trans tunnel. I installed a heavy duty insulation on it so that's has helped a lot. I also added a support for the crossover pipe. If I had to do the exhaust again, I would do 1.75" pipe after the cats instead of 2.5" for easier routing to the muffler. I don't think it would hurt performance.
I got to do some camping in the mountains. Had a really nice time. Was curious how the 5.3 would do up Eisenhower with the trailer. I hammered it hard up Eisenhower. Coming up from silverthorne to the top-the steeper side- it took all she had to keep it at 60ish mph. Trailer weighs 3500 or so. An extra 50 hp would be nice for that climb. But thats not in the cards right now. Fuel mileage didn't take too much of a hit surprisingly. It got like 10mpg. It felt really stable, braking with the trailer brakes was great. Going down from Eisenhower I shifted to 3rd and didnt have to use the brakes much. I dialed in the new lspv over winter on a sheet of ice. That has really helped braking overall too. Trans temp only got to like 170f, so that's great. I'm not using the radiator at all for Trans cooling. Just going straight to the stock Trans cooler in front of the radiator.
Also found that when I'm pushing the engine very hard up a big mountain pass with a trailer that the heat from the headers kills the Toyota oil pressure sensor. Need to put heat shielding around it.
My idle is set too low for the mechanical fan to cool, needs to be at 650 or a bit more, right now idle is at 550 and temps creep up at idle.
By momentarily grounding pin 71 you can engage a second set of shift parameters for towing. Would like to wire this up. Need to contact my ECU flash guy as to what parameters are loaded for this. I also would like the main shift parameters to be modified. It is really lazy to downshift to 1st gear.
The trans tunnel has been getting pretty warm, the crossover pipe gets close to the trans tunnel. I installed a heavy duty insulation on it so that's has helped a lot. I also added a support for the crossover pipe. If I had to do the exhaust again, I would do 1.75" pipe after the cats instead of 2.5" for easier routing to the muffler. I don't think it would hurt performance.
I got to do some camping in the mountains. Had a really nice time. Was curious how the 5.3 would do up Eisenhower with the trailer. I hammered it hard up Eisenhower. Coming up from silverthorne to the top-the steeper side- it took all she had to keep it at 60ish mph. Trailer weighs 3500 or so. An extra 50 hp would be nice for that climb. But thats not in the cards right now. Fuel mileage didn't take too much of a hit surprisingly. It got like 10mpg. It felt really stable, braking with the trailer brakes was great. Going down from Eisenhower I shifted to 3rd and didnt have to use the brakes much. I dialed in the new lspv over winter on a sheet of ice. That has really helped braking overall too. Trans temp only got to like 170f, so that's great. I'm not using the radiator at all for Trans cooling. Just going straight to the stock Trans cooler in front of the radiator.
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D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Love it. Truck is sex.
what's nice is that it's easy to get that 50hp+ with these engines..
- Thread starter
- #286
Thanks!
Yeah that is nice. The climb to Eisenhower tunnel peaks out at over 11,000ft. So the power loss from elevation is pretty significant. I found a torque cam that's supposed to add 20ftlbs and around 50hp. I would have to change valve springs. I've found some cams that give like 100hp too, but torque comes on slower.
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I changed the main shift parameters to the same as tow/haul mode, and installed a Corvette 1-2 servo. Love it.
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- #288
I tried doing a crank position relearn but it didnt work. This needs to be done when the ecu is replaced. I also had a p0706 transmission range code. This code did not show with my torque phone app. It only showed with a higher end scanner. My neutral safety switch has 2 plugs. 1 is 4 pin, the other is 7. I left the 7 pin disconnected because I thought it was necessary. However that's not true. On the 7 pin, the ground must be connected. However this diagram shows pin 34 also going to the 7 pin. But it actually goes to the 4 pin connector.
With that done the code was gone. I was able to successfully do the crank relearn. Now my torque converter locks up. Interested to see mpg difference if any.
During long heavy loads the header heat killed the oil pressure sender. So I wrapped it.
Been having trouble with my dash shift indicator lights not being totally accurate. So I made a new indicator arm. Works great now.
With that done the code was gone. I was able to successfully do the crank relearn. Now my torque converter locks up. Interested to see mpg difference if any.
During long heavy loads the header heat killed the oil pressure sender. So I wrapped it.
Been having trouble with my dash shift indicator lights not being totally accurate. So I made a new indicator arm. Works great now.
- Thread starter
- #289
Continued
Hydroboost: 2007 GMC 6.0 gas 4x4.
Hydroboost: 2007 GMC 6.0 gas 4x4.
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Nice job on the dash wrap.
- Thread starter
- #291
Got some new tires. I couldn't pass up the price. The all terrain tead design looks like it will hopefully do good in snow and mild trails. They are louder than my old cooper tires that were basically a all season.
I also did an alignment. The toe was off a little and causing tire wear. Looks like my caster is higher than I thought with the dobinsons bushings. This is good in case I lift it more. I really want to avoid more lift if I can just because it is so nice to drive around town as is. Also parking garages may be a no go with more lift. With the high caster it drives really nice at freeway speeds.
I've been having trouble with fan clutches. Aftermarket ones stay locked up too much. I went with a OEM dealer clutch and it only lasted 6 months. I got another OEM fan clutch and it was bad out of the box. I returned it. The 3rd OEM one I got is good so far. This is a common issue I think.
Right now I only really have 3 expensive mods I'd like to pursue but not in a hurry: rear bumper/tire carrier, long range fuel tank, and crank up the LS for more torque on the big mountain passes when towing bigger loads. Also have lots of little thing to pursue like a engine oil cooler and air tank for my compressor.
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I also did an alignment. The toe was off a little and causing tire wear. Looks like my caster is higher than I thought with the dobinsons bushings. This is good in case I lift it more. I really want to avoid more lift if I can just because it is so nice to drive around town as is. Also parking garages may be a no go with more lift. With the high caster it drives really nice at freeway speeds.
I've been having trouble with fan clutches. Aftermarket ones stay locked up too much. I went with a OEM dealer clutch and it only lasted 6 months. I got another OEM fan clutch and it was bad out of the box. I returned it. The 3rd OEM one I got is good so far. This is a common issue I think.
Right now I only really have 3 expensive mods I'd like to pursue but not in a hurry: rear bumper/tire carrier, long range fuel tank, and crank up the LS for more torque on the big mountain passes when towing bigger loads. Also have lots of little thing to pursue like a engine oil cooler and air tank for my compressor.
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- Thread starter
- #292
My drag link end snapped. Thankfully I was in a parking lot. Ordered new toyota ones.
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Hand porting my 243's - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Generation III Internal Engine - Hand porting my 243's - So this week I've dove into my C6 LS2 Corvette for a cam swap and a few other goodies. While I've got it apart I've decided to port the heads. I've been reading about LS head porting for months leading up to this, and watched a ton of...
ls1tech.com
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Learned a lot reading your build. Thank you!
I'm building a 97 and have been kicking around the idea of going with the new 4runner rims like you did. One Q there is about the backspacing- did you use a spacer or did it work well without?
Appreciate you taking the time to post pics and detail the process.
I'm building a 97 and have been kicking around the idea of going with the new 4runner rims like you did. One Q there is about the backspacing- did you use a spacer or did it work well without?
Appreciate you taking the time to post pics and detail the process.
- Thread starter
- #294
The 4runner rims if I recall cleared fine. I did install 1.25" spacers to make it look a little beefier. Glad you found some info was helpful.Learned a lot reading your build. Thank you!
I'm building a 97 and have been kicking around the idea of going with the new 4runner rims like you did. One Q there is about the backspacing- did you use a spacer or did it work well without?
Appreciate you taking the time to post pics and detail the process.
- Thread starter
- #295
Because I'd been towing trailers more than I anticipated I was considering of doing a cam in the 5.3. It pulls ok but would like a little more. It's great otherwise. However to do a cam I either have to pull the whole front end apart or pull the motor. Both options require some down time. In addition the only way to get more low rpm torque is either forced induction or more cubic inches. I really dont want forced induction. So I bought a 6.0. My current 5.3 components will swap right over, including my injectors, accessories, headers, and wiring harness. I am also going to cam the 6.0. That will push my current injectors to their limit. While I'm saving up for the cam I've decided to do some minor port work. I'm a novice at this. Doing intake ports first. Trying to err on the side of caution. I actually find it very enjoyable except for when I'm near the valve seats. Here is a b4 and after. Hopefully it will help increase efficiency a little.
Looks good!
- Thread starter
- #297
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IMO keep going. Get some tapered sand paper rolls to hit it with after your material removal.
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- #299
What head is that? How fine do you think I should go on the intake ports? My longer arbors are still in the mail for the sandpaper rolls. How critical is it to knock down the factory sand casting? Mainly I just tried to get out some of the larger obstacles or reduce them. I haven't enlarged the port itself hardly at all.IMO keep going. Get some tapered sand paper rolls to hit it with after your material removal.
It is a 1FZ head. I like to use 80grit on iron heads and I will go as far as 320 on aluminum heads. Get the exhaust ports smooth. The intake ports you can leave a little rough if you don't want to take the time to buff them.
