Builds Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80 (1 Viewer)

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It is a 1FZ head. I like to use 80grit on iron heads and I will go as far as 320 on aluminum heads. Get the exhaust ports smooth. The intake ports you can leave a little rough if you don't want to take the time to buff them.
Thanks for your input. I'll see what I can do.
 
Here are the 4500 HID bulbs in projectors at night. My 4runner has 5500k color bulbs which I don't have a video of and I think the 4500 is a nicer color in helping my eyes see deer and other objects on the side of the road, they seem to bring out more colors in objects at night. Not a huge difference but it is noticeable to me. I need to adjust the lights a little higher. Their is a lot of wind noise because I don't have the rear door all together yet and quite a bit of wind comes in.

Such a sweet sound!!
 
Just finished reading the whole build, nice hard work on it and thank you for sharing, I have a 91 with the 3fe already removed by PO so I have a blank slate to begin my swap when im ready, I have been leaning towards the 6.0 and glad you can confirm that, if I'm dfoing it from the start I might as well go big:) Cant wait to see more once the 6.0 is in!
 
Just finished reading the whole build, nice hard work on it and thank you for sharing, I have a 91 with the 3fe already removed by PO so I have a blank slate to begin my swap when im ready, I have been leaning towards the 6.0 and glad you can confirm that, if I'm dfoing it from the start I might as well go big:) Cant wait to see more once the 6.0 is in!
Thanks man. You can make the 5.3 get pretty good horsepower with a cam and or tune, but its the torque that is important with a 80 series it seems like to me. Thats where the 6.0 will come in nice along with a good tune. Sometimes it can be tough to find a good deal on a 6.0 so don't sweat it too much if you can't find a 6.0. You can always yank the 5.3 and drop in a 6.0 later. The tough part is just getting the swap running and dialed in.
 
The truck/suv 6.2 (L92/L94) is fairly easy to find for decent prices as well. Essentially an LS3 with a slightly lower compression (10.5 vs 10.7) and a "truck" cam (few other small differences too). Toss in a cam and you're in the mid/high 300whp/tq range.
Very good to know...:) Thanks for the info!
 
Thanks man. You can make the 5.3 get pretty good horsepower with a cam and or tune, but its the torque that is important with a 80 series it seems like to me. Thats where the 6.0 will come in nice along with a good tune. Sometimes it can be tough to find a good deal on a 6.0 so don't sweat it too much if you can't find a 6.0. You can always yank the 5.3 and drop in a 6.0 later. The tough part is just getting the swap running and dialed in.
I imagine the swap is the hardest part but thanks to you and the others that take the time to document and share sure helps to figure out the hard details! Keep up the good work!
 
Making a little more progress on the porting...
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Things to do during 6.0 swap:
Insulate firewall
Replace heater hoses
 
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One cylinder head is pretty much done with its port work. I didnt clean the first one very well before starting which made it a more dirty process. I cleaned the second head more thoroughly. I also purchased a higher quality die grinder, I've been meaning too for some time anyway. It's making the whole process quicker. I put duct tape around the valve seat to give mild protection of hitting the seat when I'm worried about hitting it.
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I also am looking into some firewall sound deadener/absorber while I have the motor out. But it has to be pretty high heat tolerant. Maybe something around 1cm thick or so. Still getting some low base tone engine sounds from the engine I'd like to quiet down.



Amazon product ASIN B01JDIQRQKAmazon.com: Genuine GM 10214664 Valve Rocker Arm: Automotive
 
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I’ve had good experience with this company (not this product specifically though). They’ve got a couple options designed for what you are looking for.

 
Still working on head porting. While I was at it I smoothed the edges in the coolant passage where it transitions to the steam ports hoping it will help air bubbles to flow out better. Only took like 5 minutes since I was already porting stuff. Here are pics of the underside of the steam ports b4 and after. I'm going to open up the rear steam ports and tee them to the front. Also stripped the block. Cylinders still have crosshatching but cam bearings are in need of replacement. Here you can see 4 of the 6 main cap bolts of each cap. The other 2 of the six are in the sides of the block of an LS motor.
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Knock sensor upper and lower grommet
water pump gaskets
rocker arms: Summit Racing SUM-141550 Summit Racing® LS Rocker Arms | Summit Racing
 
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Since I was porting stuff, figured I may as well port the oil pump too. The outlet has lots of room for improvement so I worked it significantly, the inlet I ground a bit too but probably wont make much difference. I also ported the truck intake but realistically not much I could find worth doing and will probably not help.
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Oil pan: 2008-2010 GM Oil Pan 12624621 | GM Wholesale Direct









Top ring gap, 18thou, second ring 20thou gap

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Painted air filter housing. Replacement injen filter x1022bb

Substitute: x1099bb
 
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I noticed a very small crack near my steering box. Strange since this cruiser has never had big tires. So I decided I better fix b4 it gets worse.
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I drilled both ends of the crack, ground it out some, then ran a weld over it.
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This is the plate for the back side. I had difficulty getting the stinger in to burn this to the frame.
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Here is the plate welded in. I'm not super thrilled with how it turned out but it should hold up I think. I would do it a little differently if I had to do it again. I also scheduled a dyno run to get a baseline before the new engine. Want to see how much I gain.
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Round bottom on block sleeves and combustion chamber edges.
 
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Still working on head porting. While I was at it I smoothed the edges in the coolant passage where it transitions to the steam ports hoping it will help air bubbles to flow out better. Only took like 5 minutes since I was already porting stuff. Here are pics of the underside of the steam ports b4 and after. I'm going to open up the rear steam ports and tee them to the front. Also stripped the block. Cylinders still have crosshatching but cam bearings are in need of replacement. Here you can see 4 of the 6 main cap bolts of each cap. The other 2 of the six are in the sides of the block of an LS motor.View attachment 2496676View attachment 2496677View attachment 2496678
Those green work lights look a lot like a snap on work light I have. It is my favorite work light and the snap on guy says they are discontinued.

I would love to get a couple more of the lights.
If those green work lights are not Snap On branded could you post up the details on them?
 
Those green work lights look a lot like a snap on work light I have. It is my favorite work light and the snap on guy says they are discontinued.

I would love to get a couple more of the lights.
If those green work lights are not Snap On branded could you post up the details on them?
They are maxxeon cyclops lights. They are awesome. They are on amazon.
 

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