Build Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80

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Got my new fans in. Definitely allow more airflow through the shroud. After I got them in I did a synthetic oil change with liquimoly additive. I'm at 320k miles on the odometer currently. Then I noticed my front brake hose burst just as I pulled out of the shop. I ordered all new ones.
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Heater valve 87240-60140


Supra alternative:
 
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Got a new driveshaft. Its from a 3rd gen 4runner with a double cardan joint. Had to get it shortened by about 6". Then i adjusted the upper control arms for the new pinion angle, loosened and tightened control arm bushings at the new ride height, and adjusted the lspv slightly. The new fan shroud setup seems like it might be cooling better. On my pull up the pass recently temps were 5 to 10 degrees cooler.

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Lh6 intake manifold










 
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I haven't been real happy with my tune. It's set for premium only which is getting expensive. Also at low rpm I get some pinging. So I went to a different shop. He did a baseline run first. He was able to get me an additional 15hp and 15ftlbs. The torque also peaks at lower rpm and I can run low octane again. So far no pinging. I'm not sure why the graph doesn't show lower rpms, I'm going ask about that, it seems like the run started around 3800rpm. Also it seems he ended the run before 6k rpm for some reason. I had him set the rpm limit to 6500 this time. So far it feels better overall
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GT2871R

COMP: 53mm inducer, 71mm exducer, 56 trim 0.60 AR.

Turbine: 53.8mm inducer, 76 trim 0.86 AR.




Amazon product ASIN B000CNJ66E















22mpg ls tuning with forced induction:

 
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I need more heat protection from the exhaust. Here is a hole melted from the heat in the little side skirt in the front fender.
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Front brakes are ready:
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And trans pan gasket split and is puking:
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Tanks Inc. Fuel Level Sending Units TAN-GML $44.99
Tanks Inc. TAN-GML Tanks Inc. Fuel Level Sending Units | Summit Racing - Tanks Inc. TAN-GML Tanks Inc. Fuel Level Sending Units | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-tan-gml?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwu3mncn8hgMVBJtaBR1bhggjEAQYAyABEgJni_D_BwE


Facet posi-flow 12V Fuel transfer pump $53.69
Facet Posi-Flo 12v Fuel Pump Kit, 1/8 NPT, 4-7 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies - Facet Posi-Flo 12v Fuel Pump Kit, 1/8 NPT, 4-7 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9615


Apexus PG210 Long Range, Aux tank change over Switch Gauge $89
Apexus PG210 Long Range, Aux tank change over Switch Gauge - APX-PG210 - Apexus PG210 Long Range, Aux tank change over Switch Gauge - APX-PG210 - https://bluelpg.com.au/shop/apexus-pg210-long-range-aux-tank-change-over-switch-gauge




 
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Added a different oil pump spring. Using a red mahle spring with a couple washers under it now. Reworked a new oil pickup tube and modified the baffle. Baffle is now 3/8 from the bottom of the pan. Helicoiled the 2 oil pan bellhousing bolts, the threads were pretty weak. Test filling oil pan shows 4 quarts fill the sump. 6 quarts total should be good. Over 7.2quarts is getting close to the crank baffle. Painted the notched truck pan with high temp paint as it seemed to have some oxidation forming. Also ordered a allen plug for the Level sensor hole. Still need to make sure the dip stick slides in ok.
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My Trans cooler lines are all soft lines all the way to the cooler. I dont want a lot of hard line because it can make servicing a pain. However I did want hard lines for the trans cooler lines as it goes under the manifold. So I bent up some lines. I also bent up some lines for my new oil cooler sender setup. My old sender was a factory gm sender with an fittings welded on. If anyone would like to purchase my old sender to add a oil cooler let me know, its still good with low miles and I've included a pic of it.
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Continuing to clean up some wiring. The prior owner used some cheap fuse blocks that i always had issues with, they are gone now. So far I've used nearly 400 in loom/wrap. The ecu will not use high speed fans with the AC on unless you wire in the recirc pin. So that has been wired in. I found a 220 amp alternator on sale that should be here soon. Im installing new plugs and wires and thermostat, . While its been in the garage this time around, I've done so much its hard to keep track. Trying to tidy things up and make the swap more integrated.
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I also installed a new alternator. Its rated for 170 amps at idle. These on sale right now for 100 dollars off at Walmart.com fyi.
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I am not sure why I haven't been following your build. Following it now. Probably because you started it long before my build begain in 2021 and I wasn't visiting ih8mud very frequently before then.

Just a few comments.

Love that you put in links for things you were thinking about.

I like the Maxxeon work light you are using. I have been looking for a decent quality one for months. So many work lights on Amazon are just junk...

Dynos should be corrected for elevation, temperature and humidity. One shouldn't needed to correct the numbers after the fact.

I am curious, did your tuners use speed density tuning or did they keep the MAF and adjusted the MAF curvers? I prefer the later as it is better suited for daily driving and fuel economy. The former is better for peak horsepower but it is much more complicated to get right for all elevations and atmospheric conditions..

I tuned my L96 by adjusting the MAF curves from data from a wide band O2 sensor. No dyno needed. My LTFT are spot on and I get between 14-15 mpg with a RTT and heavily loaded. All depends upon how much I lean into it..😁

I am curious what cats you used. I tried a set of legit California-rated cats and I couldn't get them to fit inside the frame rails. I went with smaller cheaper cats, but already getting post cat O2 sensor errors. My state doesn't require emissions testing on vehicles older than 15 years, so not a huge issue to solve. Hated doing the exhaust...

Hydroboost, oil cooler, converting some of the transmission cooler lines into hardlines and new higher-amp alternator is on my todo list. Things you have already done, and/or working on.
 
I tried to lube my wiper linkage-which resulted in destroying it. So I got a new linkage from Partsouq:
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I also got some new battery terminals. Im not sure i like them. But they are on for now.

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Idle Setup (Cable Driven Throttle Body)
No aftermarket throttle body should be expected to work out of the box. Also, if you have a large cam and/or more displacement changes may be required of the stock throttle body. All GM vehicles with cable driven throttle bodies (not fly by wire) use what is called an IAC motor. This motor controls an air bypass in the throttle body, which basically controls your idle. For example, if your idle is low and needs to be raised the motor will open a valve and give the engine more air, which will allow the idle to come up. The IAC motor has a certain range it may operate in, officially its 0 – 2XX IAC counts. If the valve is closed completely it will be at 0 counts, open is 2XX.

You want to set your throttle body up so that you put your IAC motor in a good effective range so that it may catch any idle dips and trim high idles just like it does in a factory vehicle. To do this, open your scanner and look for IAC counts. With a fully warmed engine at idle in Drive we recommend 30-50 counts. If your IAC counts are not in this area adjust your throttle body until it is.

Increasing Closed Throttle Body Airflow

1. Enlarging the hole in the throttle body. – Preferred method but carefully go up in size.

2. Moving the throttle body stop position – Not ideal, often leads to TPS range issues. Requires TPS to be unplugged while adjustment and TPS minimum voltage to be reset in the ECM after adjustment. Idle is often not as consistent as cars with an appropriate sized hole.

Why is enlarging or drilling the preferred method? The throttle body stop exists to keep the blade from digging into the bore of the throttle body and getting stuck. Relying on the gap between the throttle body and blade is not a good idea. This clearance changes due to temperature and expansion. This area also will get fouled with carbon deposits over time. This clearance area is very sensitive to changes. The factory throttle body uses a bypass hole. I recommend you utilize one as well.

Also by changing the throttle stop you run the risk of the TPS not being in an allowable range. If needed this can be fixed by elongating the slots on the TPS. If the throttle body stop was changed you must double check to make sure the TPS % and voltage are in the appropriate range afterwards. 0.45v-0.79v closed and no more than 4.8v seems to work in most applications. TPS % MUST RETURN TO 0.00%. The computer calls the lowest voltage recorded 0% throttle. If you move the throttle body stop the new lowest TPS Voltage must be resaved.

The computer will not try to control idle if TPS % does not read 0.00%

Excessive spark advance which may cause damage might happen on some cars if TPS voltage exceeds 4.8v!



Our preferred method;
1. The engine should be tuned decently well. Too rich or lean will greatly effect this adjustment. We often save this adjustment until the fuel trims are +/- 10% and the wideband is reading near stoich

2. Ensure TPS % reads 0.00%. Observe IAC counts fully warmed up in gear for automatics, neutral for manuals. A/C and defrost is off.

3. If IAC counts are higher than 50 counts remove throttle body and open hole up by 1/32nd. You should never exceed a 1/4″ hole. Go up in size slowly, you cannot easily undo a hole that is too big.

4. After IAC counts are in range double check to make sure TPS voltage is 0.45v- 0.79v and TPS % is zero. If not, adjust TPS, reset ECM by disconnecting battery or performing a write entire.



Again, general procedure is this;
1. Engine tuned decently well at idle? TPS % reading 0.00% at idle? If so go to step 2.

2. Are IAC counts greater than 50 fully warmed up in gear for auto or neutral for manuals? If yes go to

3. If no go to step 5 3. Open hole in throttle body -OR- unplug TPS and open throttle body stop.

4. Go back to step 1.

5. Plug in TPS if unplugged. Verify TPS voltage is 0.45v- 0.79v. If not, elongate TPS mounting holes and clock sensor until it does. If yes go to step 6.

6. Ensure TPS % reads 0.00%. If not disconnect battery, pull ECM Battery fuse, or WRITE ENTIRE the ECM. If TPS % reads 0.00% go to step 7.

7. Ensure TPS voltage does not exceed 4.8v.

The computer will not try to control idle if TPS % does not read 0.00%!

Excessive spark advance which may cause damage might happen on some cars if TPS voltage exceeds 4.8v






Tuning DBC setups while a bit more complicated is not impossible. You need to follow the procedure closely which means google IAC tuning, add HP Tuners to your keywords and you will many different threads on this process. You need to setup the scanner with the correct PIDs which will include IAC Pos, IAC Desired pos, Idle desired Air, Dynamic air, LTIT (both IG and P/N if auto), STIT, TPS (%), TPS (V), Advance and LT/STFT, RPM, MAP, ECT as a minimum. Setup a Histogram that matches your BRAF table.

Simply put you will want to set the setscrew (good idea is to remove from the bottom and re-install from the top to make on-car adjustments easier) so your IAC Pos is like 40-80 depending on cam size (40-60 mild/big cam and 60-80 stock cam) and TPS volts are < .9/.8 volts. Once set, unplug IAC/TPS connector at TB and put keyon (dont dstart) for 30 sec's. Te attach IAC/TPS connector and validate IAC Pos. May require 2 or 3 iterations to get right. Also if cam is too big, you may have to enlarge the throttle blade hole to get the TPS %/V with in the criteria. Then setup scanner and from a cold start, idle the car from cold to about 200F ECT. Turn off the AC and Fans (via VCM controls). When complete copy and paste the histogram results and fill in the upper and lower data not logged by trending. The goal is to get your LTIT's to -.05 g/sec or so. It is easier also if you disable the LTIT and just use the STIT and you will find how to do that in your search.



You need to relearn your IAC, it is reading 0.

They these steps.

IAC Relearn Procedure
If you are having idle issue you may need to reset your Idle Air Control (IAC) and
TPS, do this before you start drilling holes in your throttle body (TB) blade. I have
used this procedure on some huge cammed cars and it worked.
1) Monitor your IAC, Idle Speed, throttle position voltage and your throttle position %.
2) With the key in the ON position, adjust your TB set screw until your throttle position
is 2%.
3) Turn your key to the OFF position.
4) Unplug your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and IAC.
5) Turn your key to the ON position for a few seconds, and then OFF again.
6) Plug in the TPS and IAC and then turn your key to the ON position and restart
logging. Your throttle position will now be reset to 0 degrees and about .45-.55 volts.
7) Start your engine, your IAC should be 40-60 for a cammed engine.
if you are not at your desired IAC position redo the above procedures in smaller
increments.

Tuning DBC setups while a bit more complicated is not impossible. You need to follow the procedure closely which means google IAC tuning, add HP Tuners to your keywords and you will many different threads on this process. You need to setup the scanner with the correct PIDs which will include IAC Pos, IAC Desired pos, Idle desired Air, Dynamic air, LTIT (both IG and P/N if auto), STIT, TPS (%), TPS (V), Advance and LT/STFT, RPM, MAP, ECT as a minimum. Setup a Histogram that matches your BRAF table.

Simply put you will want to set the setscrew (good idea is to remove from the bottom and re-install from the top to make on-car adjustments easier) so your IAC Pos is like 40-80 depending on cam size (40-60 mild/big cam and 60-80 stock cam) and TPS volts are < .9/.8 volts. Once set, unplug IAC/TPS connector at TB and put keyon (dont dstart) for 30 sec's. Te attach IAC/TPS connector and validate IAC Pos. May require 2 or 3 iterations to get right. Also if cam is too big, you may have to enlarge the throttle blade hole to get the TPS %/V with in the criteria. Then setup scanner and from a cold start, idle the car from cold to about 200F ECT. Turn off the AC and Fans (via VCM controls). When complete copy and paste the histogram results and fill in the upper and lower data not logged by trending. The goal is to get your LTIT's to -.05 g/sec or so. It is easier also if you disable the LTIT and just use the STIT and you will find how to do that in your search....ERM Performance Tuning -- Interactive Learning ..from tuning software training to custom tunes
HP Tuners Dealer- VCM Suite (free 2hr training session with purchase), credits and new Version 2.0 turtorial available
 
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