Awesome, thank you. They look very similar to this snap on light. I am totally ordering some.
Builds Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter White Stripe
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #322
Decided to check port match on the intake manifold. The manifold and gasket match up perfectly. However from the intake manifold/gasket to the head I have about an 1/8" step up into the head. I can either try to adjust the manifold up 1/8", fill the floor of the manifold, or open up the head. Not sure which I'll do.
I also got this adapter for the valley for a oil pressure sender tee. I dont like having the sender above the oil filter like it currently is.
Reuse the rod bolts and just torque them in 3 stages.... 15..35..52 ft/lbs final.
Specs for reusing oem main bolts:
Start with the inner bolts first.. torque them in 3 stages.. ending up with 65lbft.
Then torque the outers In sequence to 55lb ft.
Inners.. 25..45..65 ft/lbs
Outers.. 15..35..55 ft/lbs
I also got this adapter for the valley for a oil pressure sender tee. I dont like having the sender above the oil filter like it currently is.
Reuse the rod bolts and just torque them in 3 stages.... 15..35..52 ft/lbs final.
Specs for reusing oem main bolts:
Start with the inner bolts first.. torque them in 3 stages.. ending up with 65lbft.
Then torque the outers In sequence to 55lb ft.
Inners.. 25..45..65 ft/lbs
Outers.. 15..35..55 ft/lbs
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- Thread starter
- #323
I am installing larger valves in the heads. Compression was calculated out to about 10:1. That is more than I want. I unshrouded the valves a bit hoping to increase low valve lift flow and reduce the compression ratio a little. I cc'ed the chambers after the unshrouding. They are now 73cc. That gives a compression ratio of around 9.76:1 according to the calculator. That's closer to what I want.
I also have been fighting adjustment of my shift light sensor. The included linkage is cheesy and moves around causing the sensor to be off so I made a link that is nicer with mini heim joints rather than a piece of bent bar.
I also have been fighting adjustment of my shift light sensor. The included linkage is cheesy and moves around causing the sensor to be off so I made a link that is nicer with mini heim joints rather than a piece of bent bar.
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- Thread starter
- #324
Kind of a boring update. I ported the coolant passages in the block going to the heads from the water pump. They had some sharp edges.
I also installed the timing chain. I bought a cloyes timing chain. Timing chain selection for the ls is tough. The gm chains have a lot of slop. I didn't want double row, that would require oil pickup mods I didn't have room for. This particular chain is beefier than stock, it also has very little slop. I drilled and tapped the block so I could use the gen 4 chain guide.
I also installed the timing chain. I bought a cloyes timing chain. Timing chain selection for the ls is tough. The gm chains have a lot of slop. I didn't want double row, that would require oil pickup mods I didn't have room for. This particular chain is beefier than stock, it also has very little slop. I drilled and tapped the block so I could use the gen 4 chain guide.
- Thread starter
- #325
Here is the timing chain box
I also installed the valves and btr springs in the heads. The box pics are for my own records really for part numbers in case something goes wrong.
I also bought new orings for the cam and crank sensors. They are hard to find. A dude on ebay sells upgraded replacement orings.
7.375 pushrod length
I also installed the valves and btr springs in the heads. The box pics are for my own records really for part numbers in case something goes wrong.
I also bought new orings for the cam and crank sensors. They are hard to find. A dude on ebay sells upgraded replacement orings.
7.375 pushrod length
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- Thread starter
- #326
Trying to focus on my motor but my brakes on the rear are down to 1mm. They are the pads that came on the axle at the junk yard
. I wanted ceramic pads. I just got some from rockauto. To my pleasant surprise these are friction rated to GG. That is better than oem if it's a accurate rating. Oem is FE if I remember right. They also came with new hardware which was needed. I like to machine the rotors with a on car lathe, it's easy and rotors seem a tad less likely to warp from what I've experienced. I am unsure if I'll have to adjust my lspv to these pads. Hopefully they will wear fine a d last a while.
. I wanted ceramic pads. I just got some from rockauto. To my pleasant surprise these are friction rated to GG. That is better than oem if it's a accurate rating. Oem is FE if I remember right. They also came with new hardware which was needed. I like to machine the rotors with a on car lathe, it's easy and rotors seem a tad less likely to warp from what I've experienced. I am unsure if I'll have to adjust my lspv to these pads. Hopefully they will wear fine a d last a while.
- Thread starter
- #327
Today I was able to do a baseline test on a chassis dyno. Since the 6.0 is somewhat custom I wan't to know exactly where I am at. The nice thing about LS motors is usually if you have a certain engine combination, most likely something similar has been dynoed and posted on social media. I have a decent ballpark idea of what the 6.0 as I have built it should make due to that. My head porting if I did a spectacular job should give as much as 60 hp at 6000rpm is what Im thinking. Since Im a rookie at porting I probably won't make that much. My 5.3 with a performance dyno tune should make 350hp at sea level and about 380tq(not sure if I remember the torque number right) with a perfomance tune on a stock 5.3 dyno at the crank running off the throttle body and no engine accessories based on videos from Richard Holdener on youtube who does a lot of dyno tests on ls motors. Here is what I ran today:
So I made 220hp. The tuner says my drivetrain probably causes about a 30% loss. So is he right? That is 66hp. So add 66 and I get 286hp. At 5000ft elevation I believe I lose 15% hp. 15% of 286 is 43hp. Add 43 to 286 I get 329hp. My mechanical fan costs 10hp, accessories cost 10hp, and if I had a stock silverado intake that would also cost 10hp. Im guessing my injen intake costs 5hp but not sure. So 25hp plus 329 would be 354hp at the crank without any accessories or intake. So it seems like this dyno is pretty accurate within like 10 to 15hp is my guess. Overall I had a ton of fun watching the dyno run, definitely worth the 100 bucks. Although I made significantly less than the McClaren on the next dyno over. He made over 1100hp. I'm new at this, so if there are errors in my math let me know.
So I made 220hp. The tuner says my drivetrain probably causes about a 30% loss. So is he right? That is 66hp. So add 66 and I get 286hp. At 5000ft elevation I believe I lose 15% hp. 15% of 286 is 43hp. Add 43 to 286 I get 329hp. My mechanical fan costs 10hp, accessories cost 10hp, and if I had a stock silverado intake that would also cost 10hp. Im guessing my injen intake costs 5hp but not sure. So 25hp plus 329 would be 354hp at the crank without any accessories or intake. So it seems like this dyno is pretty accurate within like 10 to 15hp is my guess. Overall I had a ton of fun watching the dyno run, definitely worth the 100 bucks. Although I made significantly less than the McClaren on the next dyno over. He made over 1100hp. I'm new at this, so if there are errors in my math let me know.
- Thread starter
- #328
The valvetrain is in. Used Tick performance for pushrods since I'm using Morel lifters. I was going to use ls7 lifters but heard of some problems with them leaking down. Installing the comp cams trunnions was easy but time consuming. Mahle makes a nice set of rockers with trunnions installed which would have been a simpler route.
I got the knock sensors in and mounted the intake for looks. I'm pretty much done with the motor. I think I'm going to go with dynamat for firewall insulation instead of the factory firewall cover. Was considering jet hot coating the headers but I'm not sure. I also want to weld in some wideband bungs for the tuner. With this motor I also plan on running a oil cooler. I also was considering different motor mount setup. But with the minimal lift I have and the emissions stuff I don't really have room for anything else. So I'll just clean up what I have.
To do:
Move oil pressure sensor.
Paint frame,
Install firewall insulation
Swap dip stick tube
Refresh headers-sandblast
Swap water pump
Paint alternator bracket-sandblast
Weld in wideband bungs
Trans cooler lines
Fuel line insulation
Fender covers
www.gmfullsize.com
Rear driveshaft pn
I got the knock sensors in and mounted the intake for looks. I'm pretty much done with the motor. I think I'm going to go with dynamat for firewall insulation instead of the factory firewall cover. Was considering jet hot coating the headers but I'm not sure. I also want to weld in some wideband bungs for the tuner. With this motor I also plan on running a oil cooler. I also was considering different motor mount setup. But with the minimal lift I have and the emissions stuff I don't really have room for anything else. So I'll just clean up what I have.
To do:
Move oil pressure sensor.
Paint frame,
Install firewall insulation
Swap dip stick tube
Refresh headers-sandblast
Swap water pump
Paint alternator bracket-sandblast
Weld in wideband bungs
Trans cooler lines
Fuel line insulation
Fender covers
Is this everything I need to use the Vortec Max engine...
Rear driveshaft pn
37110-60520
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- Thread starter
- #329
I made some brackets for the new engine oil cooler. I think this will really help with towing. I cut off the crimped hoses and had an fitting bungs welded to the stock lq4 oil cooler output. Added insulation to the firewall which turned out fine. I got a 4 core radiator off of ebay. It looks really nice but doesn't fit. The bottom tank hits the frame. I'm going to see if I can modify the bottom tank. Also the radiator overall is very thick. Its 1/2 thicker than my current 3 core. I'm going to have to trim my shroud which is no big deal. Anyway I hope it will work. I think the oil cooler will bring down engine temps overall a bit, but I think the radiator is a important part to the puzzle with the heavy loads I intend to pull. I also had the headers sandblasted. I've painted the inside and will paint the outside also.
Once the radiator is fitted I need to clean up and paint the frame in the engine compartment, fix some wiring and put some loom on. Then I'm ready to drop the motor in.
Once the radiator is fitted I need to clean up and paint the frame in the engine compartment, fix some wiring and put some loom on. Then I'm ready to drop the motor in.
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don't worry about dyno numbers. Weird stuff happens when you have a large tire, transfer case etc. I've seen 7-800hp Utlra4 cars put down 150whp on a chassis dyno.
a 5.3/4l60 FJ62 I built recently just put down 260whp/310ftlb through a 33" tire at sea level and I was very surprised at how high it was.
Also, cute timing chain guide install, I threw away the one that was in my race car
a 5.3/4l60 FJ62 I built recently just put down 260whp/310ftlb through a 33" tire at sea level and I was very surprised at how high it was.
Also, cute timing chain guide install, I threw away the one that was in my race car
- Thread starter
- #331
Why did you throw it away? I like to think it might aid in reducing the amount of impact loading. Couldn't find a lot on the subject however. But I noticed gm added it and had several versions as the models go later on.don't worry about dyno numbers. Weird stuff happens when you have a large tire, transfer case etc. I've seen 7-800hp Utlra4 cars put down 150whp on a chassis dyno.
a 5.3/4l60 FJ62 I built recently just put down 260whp/310ftlb through a 33" tire at sea level and I was very surprised at how high it was.
Also, cute timing chain guide install, I threw away the one that was in my race car
Lower radiator hose: needs to be cut to fit
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- Joined
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- 484
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- 14,262
- Location
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- Website
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I just don’t think it matters and was looking to save every ounce of weight (this is on my race car) Plenty of cars out there making 800-1k whp with original 250k mile timing chains and no guides. I don’t think a lot of things matter though, I don’t run any of those M8 head bolts along the tops of the cylinder heads either, or more then two windage tray nuts, etc
It currently has a five Gen 4 rods and three Gen 3 rods in it as well
- Thread starter
- #333
Gotcha. I read the info available and made decisions. A lot of forums over dramatize things and it's hard to figure out what's a good mod and what's not needed. I'm sure some of them vary from what you would do. Unfortunately I don't have the experience of 20 or 30 Ls motor builds under my belt for help in determining what's a big deal in rebuilding a Ls and what's not. Some of what I did might not be of much benefit at all. I was especially on the fence of rebuilding the bottom end as it was running fine. I think it would have been just fine looking back to leave the bottom end alone. It would probably been just fine if I didn't add the LS2 tchain block. But at the time the decisions made sense. In a few weeks I will see just how good or bad my decisions were. Hopefully I won't be back with the old 5.3 and have a large 6.0 paperweight with a hole in the side of it.I just don’t think it matters and was looking to save every ounce of weight (this is on my race car) Plenty of cars out there making 800-1k whp with original 250k mile timing chains and no guides. I don’t think a lot of things matter though, I don’t run any of those M8 head bolts along the tops of the cylinder heads either, or more then two windage tray nuts, etc
It currently has a five Gen 4 rods and three Gen 3 rods in it as well
- Thread starter
- #334
Motor is in the engine bay. My one challenge is how to run the somewhat large oil cooler hoses. I ordered some more an fittings and will drill more through the frame to run them. Also I used the dbw manifold on the new motor. This caused some complications. The dbw uses a return less fuel system, and has no port for the fuel pressure regulator vacuum. It also has no threaded inserts for the throttle cable bracket. I removed the inserts from the dbc manifold and installed them. I also removed the port blank and installed a port. The pcv routing is also different but not a hard work around. I spent considerable time on this intake and was determined not to swap it out with my old one. All the accessories are swapped. I also installed my oil pressure sender adapters. It should work great. I also replaced a few hard to get to heater hoses I hadn't done yet since its easy with the motor out. The only old hoses left on the truck are the fuel filler hoses. The new 4 core radiator fit great so far. I'm using a new 1800rpm stall converter. Was afraid to go much higher on the stall for my uses.
You still running straight to trans cooler and going through radiator then to cooler? So far so good?
- Thread starter
- #336
For tranny lines I'm just going straight to the stock external tranny cooler and back to the trans.
- Thread starter
- #337
The fresh 6.1 liter is alive. Black Bear did a rough tune for it, it actually runs pretty decent. I broke in the rings on a long mountain drive. It was only running in open loop, as I drove I realized I had no O2 waveforms. Gm has this weird splice for the o2 sensors. I thought it was some home made splice from the prior owner and so I tried to clean it up but rewired it incorrectly. After I got done with my drive I rewired it again. I installed clamps on my oil cooler push lock fittings for extra insurance. I have to fix a exhaust leak, change the oil, and it's ready to get tuned. I also have to install the grill, skid plate, recharge the AC, and swap out the fuse box as I had a bad crimp melt a wire for my cooled seats. The 5.3 is being sold to go in a 87 2wd toyota pickup. So looks like it's going to keep living the toyota life.
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That’s my plan down the line to eventually go 6.0. Nice work 
- Thread starter
- #339
Went and got my first emissions test for the first time since my referee visit. One of my cats had the honey comb break apart and it was rattling. It still passed the sniffer. The emissions guys were intent on ensuring all 4 o2s were present which took them about 20 minutes to find. I've replaced the cat since. Dyno with the 6.0 showed about 80 more hp and 70 more torque over the tuned 5.3. Fuel mileage city is 11.2, highway is 13.5. Interestingly the highway mileage is better than my 5.3. The city was about the same between the 2 motors. I was not driving like a grandma all the time with those mileage numbers on the 6.0. I think I can get 14 highway taking it more easy. I need to go back to the tuner, some of the tune isn't right, especially the shifting and idle. The extra torque when pulling my trailer with the 6.0 is really great.
Red lines are my 5.3, blue is 6.0 before tune, green is the final dyno pull tune graph I have although it should be a little better now as he has adjusted some of the tune since but should be within 15hp or so.Keep in mind too these numbers are at elevation that reduces the hp by 15%.
www.ecklers.com
Red lines are my 5.3, blue is 6.0 before tune, green is the final dyno pull tune graph I have although it should be a little better now as he has adjusted some of the tune since but should be within 15hp or so.Keep in mind too these numbers are at elevation that reduces the hp by 15%.
Well I think I've finally found a decent Rays/Volk bronze paint!!! - ScoobyNet.com - Subaru Enthusiast Forum
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Ecklers 1970-1972 Camaro 3 Speed Console Indicator Lens Adapter
This is a replacement indicator for the often broken dash indicator. Originally the indicator was located in the dash cluster. This new indicator allows you to
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- Thread starter
- #340
I've finally been able to really test this radiator. I had to help out a relative on the other side of the Eisenhower tunnel (11,000ft elevation, which kills about 40% hp)to bring a dual axle trailer back over the pass. I didn't look to see all what was in it, I just needed to hurry and get it back. His diesel turbo died and he needed the trailer picked up. All I know is it was heavy. From a standing start in first gear she was very sluggish. At full throttle I could only do 40 up the pass with the 6.0 going up the silverthorne side. It was 80 degrees out. Engine coolant temps only got to like 205 to 210. This is probably as hard as I'll push it. So that is very good I think and even leaves room for more. At idle however with the mechanical fan and the AC on the coolant temps slowly creep up. I need more airflow at idle somehow. Maybe a different fan clutch. I'm going to shut off my AC pusher fan and see what that does. I've heard it can actually disrupt flow. I checked fuel mileage, for this trip I got 10.5mpg.
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AC Request: How does it work - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
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