Builds Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Mocking up gm hydrobooster. The cap just kisses the hood insulation. But I think it will be OK. My insulation is old and droops a little. The booster is from a 2003 to 2006 Yukon xl. The master is a h2 as are the lines. Just have to clean it up and fit the brake lines and the hose tee.
20210806_215206.jpg

1628700997824.png

1628701734134.png

1629584963331.png

1630111307492.png

Pin 17 is already installed and connected to something, find where its connected.




 
Last edited:
Mocking up gm hydrobooster. The cap just kisses the hood insulation. But I think it will be OK. My insulation is old and droops a little. The booster is from a Yukon xl. The master is a h2 as are the lines. Just have to clean it up and fit the brake lines and the hose tee.View attachment 2752275

I want to do this. Bolts right up to the firewall or did you need an adapter?
 
I want to do this. Bolts right up to the firewall or did you need an adapter?
I had to cut off the gm mounting studs on the mounting plate and drill it for the toyota firewall. Then I welded a bolt to booster input shaft somewhat carefully. The master I installed is too big piston diameter, so I will have to swap out the h2 master. Shouldn't be too big of a deal I hope. Im somewhat focused on swapping to electric cooling fans right now. So I won't swap out the master for a bit yet.

8871832220
 
Last edited:
Got a smaller diameter master cylinder to try. It's for a trailblazer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SFYBXU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
The h2 master is 1 7/16" diameter. The trailblazer is 1 1/16". The h2 travel is very short pedal travel which also results in high pedal effort. If you put your foot on it, it will lock up the brakes violently. So the hydroboost is working. But in traffic the pedal stiffness gets old.
I also wired up my AC so that the ecu controls the compressor. This takes a fair bit of wiring. You can get away with just hooking up the stock ac amplifier compressor wire if you have a stock cam to some extent. That's the easiest. However having the gm ecu control the compressor ensures no idle drop when the clutch engages. Idle drop is much worse with a aftermarket cam especially if the ac is not ecu controlled. In addition the ecu cuts the compressor power at higher rpm. It's hard on a compressor to spin at the higher rpms. I've already been through one new compressor ran on just the ac amplifier wire likely due to high rpm. Different year ecu's require different wiring methods, including the use of a trinary switch. Some companies make trinary switch kits.
I'm also making progress on my electric fan swap. I wired these too so they are gm ecu controlled. The gm ecu will cut the fans off at the programmed vehicle speed. I'm using a derale fan/shroud combo. They come with spal fans. I still have to tidy it up a bit. It's definitely easier to change a drive belt now. Low speed comes on at 200f and cuts at 190. Low speed is very quiet, high speed isn't bad. I'm impressed by the quality vs price of the derale kit. I had to fab some simple brackets.. High speed comes on at 220 and cuts at 190. This is all adjustable. In the shop at idle I let the truck get to 220. It was about 70f ambient. The temps dropped back to 190 very fast. But haven't tested in hot weather yet.
20210918_190435.jpg
20210918_170502.jpg
20210918_214745.jpg
 
Last edited:
Got some new front brake pads. The friction rating is the same as Toyota pads. They feel better than the sub 10 dollar cheap pads I was running.

20210829_184128.jpg
20210829_183342.webp
Changed the color on my speaker grills and sun roof controls.
20210922_183702.jpg

I also rebuilt the shifter bezel and polished the indicator. I'm surprised nobody reproduces the indicator decal. It's hard to find a good clean indicator. A new decal would be not hard to make. The whole bezel is kind of fragile. When taking apart start at the back and work forward. The decal on the back is extremely fragile. The tape was not touching the decal.
20210924_164230.jpg

20210924_193917.jpg
 
I also switched my master to a trailblazer ss master. Fitting size was the same as the h2. Reservoir fits under the hood much better. Pedal is softer, better travel, feels like stock brakes should be expected to feel. Brakes lock up really nice. I'm really happy with them.
20210924_193946.webp
 
I also switched my master to a trailblazer ss master. Fitting size was the same as the h2. Reservoir fits under the hood much better. Pedal is softer, better travel, feels like stock brakes should be expected to feel. Brakes lock up really nice. I'm really happy with them. View attachment 2795221
Glad to see you found a good fitting master cylinder. Putting a manual trans behind a 6.0 LS and think I will have to go hydro boost to fit the clutch master.
 
Glad to see you found a good fitting master cylinder. Putting a manual trans behind a 6.0 LS and think I will have to go hydro boost to fit the clutch master.
Being that my vacuum booster had 300k miles on it and the hydroboost puts out more assist it seemed like the way to go. I'm curious how a manual would drive behind a 6.0.
 
Nice work.. that shifter bezel turned out nice! Some of the black between N and D somehow scraped away from previous owner so I sometimes see a bright orange indicator lol.

What you use to spray those black?
Thanks man. I used SEM classic coat flexible coating.
 
Last edited:
I've decided to redo the motor mounts. They are advance adapter mounts which are basically rubber pucks. I believe they are the source of some odd vibrations. So I bought some fluid filled mounts and hope that helps.. Packaging is a bit tighter since they are bigger in every way. I decided not to redo them when I was dropping in the new motor. Now I've decided to redo them. I guess subconsciously I like to make things more difficult. These are corvette motor mounts. If they don't hold up they make various high performance mounts for vettes that should drop in. For the most part the advance adapter mounts on the block will stay and is why I am using these mounts. This should be the last of the fab work redone from the prior owner. I may not have access to shop fabrication tools for a while so I'm trying to finish all fab work on both my cruisers. I also got my ecu reflashed with some different shifting parameters and it seems to have really improved things. The 6.0 has been great. So far I can get about 14mpg on the highway if I don't drive too crazy. It's very difficult to drive like a grandma, if I can manage to do it I might get even better mpg.
20211023_153814.jpg
20211024_194722.webp
 
Last edited:
You were able to squeeze those corvette mounts into the Advance Adapter mounts, or did you redo the frame side of the mounts?
 
Got the new oil cooler installed. Fits pretty good. I need to wire C2 pin 11 to ground when the ac compressor engages so the new electric fans come on to cool the condenser. That can wait since it's November. I also installed ome stock height coils and new toyota shocks up front. I think the Toyota shocks are amazing. They make for a nice ride and last forever. They are also inexpensive.
20211113_165923.webp
20211113_165748.webp

I also welded in 10m metric nuts in the bottom coil brackets so I can easily install bump stop spacers while I had the coils out.
20211113_165823.webp
 
Last edited:
The corvette mounts are taller and larger diameter so I redid the frame side mounts. They are lower on the frame compared to before to keep the motor at its same height. I didn't do anything to the block side.
Ok. What it looked like in the pics. The vibrations don’t bother me much at all. Certainly not enough to mess with that. Maybe if I ever pull the engine.

Thanks for the idea.
 
Ok. What it looked like in the pics. The vibrations don’t bother me much at all. Certainly not enough to mess with that. Maybe if I ever pull the engine.

Thanks for the idea.
My mounting brackets on the frame were a bit rough from the previous owner, so that played a part in me cutting them off. Figured I might as well put in something different. No the vibrations aren't bad with aa mounts.
 
Being that my vacuum booster had 300k miles on it and the hydroboost puts out more assist it seemed like the way to go. I'm curious how a manual would drive behind a 6.0.
I have a 6.0/NV4500 in my 60 and it is really fun to drive......rarely use granny gear but it shifts smooth and handles the power well, highly recommend!!
 
I think I'm going to try a different electric fan setup. I don't like the way the derale unit flows air. The fans are basically tubes that protrude to about within 1/2" of the radiator face. So at speed air outside the fan diameter has to rush around until it finds the holes with flaps. I'm thinking this hurts heat from the radiator but I'm not an expert in airflow and thermodynamics. Here is what I'm talking about.
d66838_22_1000.jpg

The heat issues come up when towing heavy up mountain passes. The last time I towed my 16' cargo trailer recently coolant temps got to about 245 on the steepest hill. It was a struggle to keep 65mph. At 7000ft elevation I was loosing nearly 100hp. The trailer is not a v nose so it's like pulling a big brick.
So this is the fan setup I just ordered. It's a smoother shroud/fan design I think and I hope will allow air to pass at speed better. I want to have enough cooling to pull my fj40 if needed.
295_2.jpg

Rear dshaft 40 3/4
 
Last edited:
why not try out GM fans? I think they would fit with a little trimming. Tried to find some cfm numbers but really couldn’t find any.. ranged from 5k on up to 10k cfm.. 🤷🏽‍♂️ But I’ve read they’re great fans and an easy mod.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom