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Clean 'em, Re-gap 'em and run 'em
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Now that you've got the process down to a science, let me know when you're free. Mine needs this too.
Thanks! I got some NGK replacements and it seems to run a bit smoother since putting the new ones in. Even got to teach my son a little about wrenching. Poor kid busted his knuckles for the first time. But walked it off. A right of passage indeed.
fourtrax
SILVER Star
mix with water to thin out to easy removal/pouring process.
sorry, it could mean anything.
sorry, it could mean anything.
Guys... don't get in a hurry at the last stage of a project, like I did. Finished up my AC install (which is working now and I'm stoked). I'll be updating that thread soon enough. However, as part of the project I added a couple of 4-post junction boxes (power and ground) to clean up some of the many connections at the battery. Apparently I failed to tighten down one of the post nuts and a poor connection led to this:
Luckily, the starter wouldn't engage and I started troubleshooting. Damned close from burning her down. Simple fix, but just a reminder to take your time. If you are like me, it's so tempting to cut corners or get in a hurry at the end of a project. Disaster, averted here... barely.
Ramon
Luckily, the starter wouldn't engage and I started troubleshooting. Damned close from burning her down. Simple fix, but just a reminder to take your time. If you are like me, it's so tempting to cut corners or get in a hurry at the end of a project. Disaster, averted here... barely.
Ramon
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Damn Ramon, that took some heat to melt that much. Glad you caught it before it got to the next stage.Guys... don't get in a hurry at the last stage of a project, like I did. Finished up my AC install (which is working now and I'm stoked). I'll be updating that thread soon enough. However, as part of the project I added a couple of 4-post junction boxes (power and ground) to clean up some of the many connections at the battery. Apparently I failed to tighten down one of the post nuts and a poor connection led to this:
View attachment 3391169
Luckily, the starter wouldn't engage and I started troubleshooting. Damned close from burning her down. Simple fix, but just a reminder to take your time. If you are like me, it's so tempting to cut corners or get in a hurry at the end of a project. Disaster, averted here... barely.
Yep, I freaked out a bit when I first found it. The main power feed from the battery to this block is only about 12" long, so I didn't add a fuse. Needless to say a fuse is set to be delivered tomorrow. Lesson learned. Flat out lack of diligence on my part.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Actually doing some work on my own truck, a rarity for sure.
I wanted to do something different. I picked up cable locker conversion kits for the axles 5 or 6 years back. So I went all cable and moved them up. Center console will extend under and up the the shifter mounts. Room for a couple indicator lights between the trans shifter and others.
I wanted to do something different. I picked up cable locker conversion kits for the axles 5 or 6 years back. So I went all cable and moved them up. Center console will extend under and up the the shifter mounts. Room for a couple indicator lights between the trans shifter and others.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I finally found something that breaks stuck brake line fittings loose: Superzilla, of all things. It's not worth a damn for stuck bolts, PB Blaster or ATF+paraffin is still my choice (PB Blaster when I've forgotten to mix enough homebrew), but it does eat through the brake fluid induced rust. And it cleans OK, but not as well as purple degreaser under pressure. I will say that it doesn't have the undesired side effect of purple degreaser (or any of the other lye based cleaners), it doesn't leave the metal open to flash rust.
I had to replace the flexible lines on Charlie's (formerly Sarah's) 1994 80, and the right side was so stuck I had to pull everything up to the firewall, and then clamp it all in a vise to get it apart. I sprayed the left side with Superzilla, mainly to clean some clamp mounting bolts, but I figured while I was there...and by the time I'd finished cleaning and put a wrench on the line fitting, it spun off like it was new.
Also, from the FWIW, department (I miss Paul Harvey), my Gearwrench combination ratcheting 10-mm fits way better than my Craftsman 10-mm combination line wrench.
I measured a number of fittings and they all spec'd out at 9.9-mm. The Craftsman line wrench (supposedly made just for this job) measures 10.2-mm and the Gearwrench measured 10.02 - who knew?
I had to replace the flexible lines on Charlie's (formerly Sarah's) 1994 80, and the right side was so stuck I had to pull everything up to the firewall, and then clamp it all in a vise to get it apart. I sprayed the left side with Superzilla, mainly to clean some clamp mounting bolts, but I figured while I was there...and by the time I'd finished cleaning and put a wrench on the line fitting, it spun off like it was new.
Also, from the FWIW, department (I miss Paul Harvey), my Gearwrench combination ratcheting 10-mm fits way better than my Craftsman 10-mm combination line wrench.
I measured a number of fittings and they all spec'd out at 9.9-mm. The Craftsman line wrench (supposedly made just for this job) measures 10.2-mm and the Gearwrench measured 10.02 - who knew?
- Joined
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- Threads
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Happy New(to me) Tire Day!
Stuffed some new rubber into my wheel wells. Falken Wildpeak AT3W LT 275/70/18….
Luckily @fj40alex helped me do a creative FBM deal on these tires even though I don’t FB, such a shame that CL is toast and things have shifted to the evil empire…. Oh well
Super happy with the stance, going’s to load range E from the non-LT Wildpeak i had likely will impact stiffness and MPV but worth it for me.
Maybe gained 1.5-1.75 inches due to slightly larger size and because my old ones were at end of life depth.
Not gonna lie, I was kind of regretting my Indy shop choice once my baby was held up on all fours by Pittsburg HF jacks without any fail safes…. But saved some coin that can be spent on the next fun cruiser project! I knowingly over paid on installation for instant gratification.
Yes I parked near this forty on purpose.
ODO 226,180 miles
So nervous at this point, but good peeps at this shop in Mt Holly. URF Tire
Stuffed some new rubber into my wheel wells. Falken Wildpeak AT3W LT 275/70/18….
Luckily @fj40alex helped me do a creative FBM deal on these tires even though I don’t FB, such a shame that CL is toast and things have shifted to the evil empire…. Oh well
Super happy with the stance, going’s to load range E from the non-LT Wildpeak i had likely will impact stiffness and MPV but worth it for me.
Maybe gained 1.5-1.75 inches due to slightly larger size and because my old ones were at end of life depth.
Not gonna lie, I was kind of regretting my Indy shop choice once my baby was held up on all fours by Pittsburg HF jacks without any fail safes…. But saved some coin that can be spent on the next fun cruiser project! I knowingly over paid on installation for instant gratification.
Yes I parked near this forty on purpose.
ODO 226,180 miles
So nervous at this point, but good peeps at this shop in Mt Holly. URF Tire
Getting close to the finish line with Dusty, the '82 FJ40. New brakes and suspension, refurbed driveshafts, new seat covers, desmog, manifold re-do, recurved distributor, new valve seals, galley plug fix, timing cover re-seal, side cover re-seal, gear reduction starter, new water pump, thermostat and hoses, new belts, spark plugs, carb rebuilt by Mark Algazy, new-ish ac compressor and leak-free power steering pump (fingers crossed). New radiator, battery, Koito H4 headlights going in next. My plan is to get this truck back on the road soon and enjoy it for a while. This winter I'd like to get the local ac shop to make up some new ac lines and get the ac back in working order. Also planning to do some rust repair on the DS rear ambulance door, replace the door gaskets (again...City Racer gaskets FTL) and replace the headliner and windshield to body seal when the cap comes off for the headliner install. I've owned this truck almost 6 years and never driven it outside of my neighborhood. I promised the old man I bought it from that I'd take him out for a cup of coffee when I got it done. I intend to make good on my promise...sooner than later.
![MMQQ2579[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/mmqq2579-1-jpg.3420399/ "MMQQ2579[1].JPG")
![IMG_6434[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_6434-1-jpg.3420400/ "IMG_6434[1].JPG")
![IMG_6436[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_6436-1-jpg.3420401/ "IMG_6436[1].JPG")
Last edited:
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Oh dang, luxurious, those are the newer improved HF Dayton ones! Ps my blood pressure just went up fifteen points when I saw this picture.
That 40 is flexy enough that if any one of those jacks failed, it would most likely just gently drop a hub to the ground. Now if two failed on the same side...not sure about that:
40LandCruising
Anderson
Have this spare 9.5” diff out of a 40. Was planning to swap it in to the rear of my dad’s 40 because his makes some real interesting noises. Is it normal for the center spacer and the top and bottom spider gears to have some play in them? The diff looks real good and the gears seems happy but was just curious about the spider gears.
