lumbee1
Native American
Run a zip tie up through the pinch weld drains to unclog them. I followed that up with running HOT water down my sunroof drains into my rockers to clear out any debris.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (20 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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My passenger side rocker is the only one that has filled up like that. It's never the driver's side. Not sure why? My truck is a '94 (as is Patrick's). I wonder if there is a correlation?
Anyway, pull the plugs out, zip tie up the pinch weld slit. Either one will solve the problem...until it happens again. That rocker will hold a gallon or so of water before it starts to spill over into the floorboard. Both times I have had to drain mine, I was amazed at how much water came out.
Anyway, pull the plugs out, zip tie up the pinch weld slit. Either one will solve the problem...until it happens again. That rocker will hold a gallon or so of water before it starts to spill over into the floorboard. Both times I have had to drain mine, I was amazed at how much water came out.
After 6 weeks, my wiring project is finally finished. Everything electrical has been function tested multiple times. I am STOKED. Next up, sound deadening.
Here's some highlights. I put a full blown write-up in my moonshine thread.
@LockedNLoaded - your steering wheel in moonshine! Thanks for the heads up man, I love this thing.
Here's some highlights. I put a full blown write-up in my moonshine thread.
@LockedNLoaded - your steering wheel in moonshine! Thanks for the heads up man, I love this thing.
Fort Knox
SILVER Star
Something a little more low key. I was looking for a way to add a cupholder. Craftsman magnetic toolbox cup holder from Lowes works great. 13 bucks and change. Held a 1 litre water bottle with no trouble. Magnets are rubberized to prevent scratching.
Hey everyone. I'm up at app state for the year and I brought my 80 with me. I've driven it a few times over the past few days and its been running perfectly. Yesterday afternoon I went to the parking lot and turned the key just to get a click and no crank. I believe it's something with the starter (maybe not, just what makes sense to me). I looked it up and I saw that the solenoid can seize up and a hit with a hammer could free it, but I tried that and it didn't work. How do I diagnose the issue and do y'all think it's something I can do on my own in the parking lot? I'm sure there's other posts out there about this but I've found I generally get better straightforward advice with this club. Thanks!
Also, a little preview for something that might be huge for me in the next couple days. I found a pretty clean mostly rust free 40 sitting in a garage that supposedly has been there for well over 10 years that I should be able to purchase. So stay on the lookout for a post about that as I'm sure I'll need a ton of advice when trying to get it to run!
Also, a little preview for something that might be huge for me in the next couple days. I found a pretty clean mostly rust free 40 sitting in a garage that supposedly has been there for well over 10 years that I should be able to purchase. So stay on the lookout for a post about that as I'm sure I'll need a ton of advice when trying to get it to run!
Check the simple things first. Battery terminals and Fusible links from the positive. Same think happened to me in publix last week, drove to the store and when i went to leave, nothing. Checked the cables and had some corrosion. Parking lot cable maintenance and I was home before the beer got cold.
I don't know about the 80s, but if it's anything like a 40, I've had that problem because of a bad ground from my negative terminal.
Will I still have power if it's the fusible link? All electronics work in the car, it just won't crank. Also, I'm pretty positive my wiring might not be factory because I tried to replace the fusible link a couple months ago and couldn't figure it out for the life of me.
The parts to do this job are about $60 IIRC and there are only three of them. It’s harder to get the starter out and in than it is to replace those parts. Just remember to disconnect the battery BEFORE you short out the starter Positive lug with a wrench up against the transmission dip stick tube and start a fire in your parents’ garage. It happened once to that idiot guy who looks just like me. Took him an hour for the job and around 4 hours to clean the fire extinguisher residue from everything.
I came close to that too, but it was outside in the driveway, and was able to get the disconnect after realizing my ratchet started to get quite warm.
Finally had a chance to make it out to the car today. Thanks to y'all I checked the battery connections and sure enough it was totally lose on the negative terminal. Tightened it down real quick and boom she started up perfectly. I am going to attach a photo of what the wiring looks like because it definitely doesn't seem like it's what it should be.
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #4,938
Yeah. That in line fuse is not stock. Bypassing part of the fusible link I presume. I’d try and get it back to OE status there for easier troubleshooting if needed.
you dragging a trailer around Boone last weekend? I think I spotted you without knowing it.
edit for pic. Tan (maybe gold) 450 right in the main drag by campus.
you dragging a trailer around Boone last weekend? I think I spotted you without knowing it.
edit for pic. Tan (maybe gold) 450 right in the main drag by campus.
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Ya I’ll need to figure that out at some point.I have no idea about anything wiring related so I’ll have to find someone who does to help on that one. And that’s not me but I saw that same car a few days ago. Mine is the tan from factory with a tire carrier bumper and no bumper up front if you ever see me around
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
made up the trans cooler lines on an 80 swap yesterday. From trans to radiator to auxiliary cooler back to trans.
