S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Sounds like possible vapor lock minus the white smoke.
Have you verified timing and temps?
Have you verified timing and temps?
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (27 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Haven't checked the timing, I lent my timing light to a friend and need to get it back. Would timing give such inconsistent performance? I was expecting it to die at every stoplight on the way home, but it acted like everything was normal.
Temps are showing normal on the stock gauge. Just over the second bar, slightly left of the midway mark. I know it's not that accurate, but I've come to trust it as it did show fluctuations when I was having trouble.
The white smoke indicates it's burning too rich correct? If it were vapor lock is assume it would be running lean, though maybe in my efforts to start it I flood the engine too much?
White smoke? Check coolant
Coolant levels are good. Had the radiator rebuilt about 6 months ago. Recently replaced the radiator cap because it was overflowing too frequently and temp gauge going up. What else should I check for coolant? I should clarify the white smoke is white exhaust and only is noticable right after I started it when it was struggling.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Timing too retarded can result in higher running temps, usually on the exhaust manifold...which is right below the carb.
Start simple - verify timing and get an IR heat temp gun to check temps at the radiator, tstat, manifold etc. check vacuum at idle.
While vapor lock can result in hard starting when hot, usually cranking while gas pedal fully depressed will get it started again.
Start simple - verify timing and get an IR heat temp gun to check temps at the radiator, tstat, manifold etc. check vacuum at idle.
While vapor lock can result in hard starting when hot, usually cranking while gas pedal fully depressed will get it started again.
Verify that the idle solenoid clicks when you turn the key. It should.
When you installed the carb, did you use a paper gasket between the carb and the carb spacer? If you did, your secodary butterfly may be hanging up on the edge of the gasket, holding the secondary open just enough to bypass the idle circuit and cause the carb to load up. That will make smoke and a gassy smell. It has happened to me before. I ditched the paper gasket. It really isn’t needed unless your carb spacer is really rough.
Carb fan (or lack there of) would not cause stalling. Hard starting when warm, yes, but it won’t affect how the truck runs. Carb fan only comes on when the ignition is off anyway.
Another possibility is a large piece of trash in the tank blocking the flow or a piece of trash in the carb screen or obstructing the float needle.
Last edited:
Thanks, I'll double check that I can hear the solenoid tomorrow. It is a single wire coming out, should I assume that it is carrying 12v, and then it's grounded through the carb? Marshall installed and tuned the carb at his shop about a year ago and this is the first that this is happening so I'm not sure if it's got that gasket or not, but I'll check.
Is the carb fan not enough to prevent vapor lock?
Trollhole does use a single wire 12v switched with the carb as a ground.
Carb fan helps with hot starts. That is all. It does a good job when it works but it’s not a silver bullet fix for the issue you are having. This sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me. Either too lean or too rich. Blockage or choke stuck on. Pull off the air cleaner and verify that your choke butterfly is completely closed. Run it some more at idle and look really close at the sight glass to see where your fuel level is at. You should be able to see fuel cycling through.
Carb fan helps with hot starts. That is all. It does a good job when it works but it’s not a silver bullet fix for the issue you are having. This sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me. Either too lean or too rich. Blockage or choke stuck on. Pull off the air cleaner and verify that your choke butterfly is completely closed. Run it some more at idle and look really close at the sight glass to see where your fuel level is at. You should be able to see fuel cycling through.
Thanks all. I'm going to check the solenoid is clicking tomorrow and there's not a gasket issue. Replacing the fuel filter is good practice and cheap enough too that I'll do that as well. If I have the problem again I'll get it on video which may help diagnose. Meanwhile I'll look at getting a proper temp gauge and routing into the cabin instead of relying on the OEM one.
I'll rent or harass my buddy in getting me the light gun back to check timing. I have an IR thermometer to check temps and will toss in the cab in case the issue arises again.
If it is trash in the bowl or tank I suppose there's no real way of checking aside from full disassembly correct?
Thanks everyone. I'll post updates as I get them.
I'll rent or harass my buddy in getting me the light gun back to check timing. I have an IR thermometer to check temps and will toss in the cab in case the issue arises again.
If it is trash in the bowl or tank I suppose there's no real way of checking aside from full disassembly correct?
Thanks everyone. I'll post updates as I get them.
lots of water in passenger floor. Sunroof drain clear, any ideas?
2nd the windshield gasket. Eapecially if its not the original. Most installers do t realize the rubber also gets sealant. They install dry and they leak. My 80 leaks on both sides
Windshield is original, and looks fine. It’s only wet on the floor pan, can’t see any water coming down from the top. Also looks like there is water draining from the pinch weld
@pkniland
Seal about 6-8” across and 3-4” up each lower corner with packing tape or that fancy chrome stuff I use. Start on glass and end on metal, encapsulating the rubber there. Hose it down really well in one corner. Check for leaks where mentioned above. Then do the other side. That’s the quick and dirty test. The long and painful test is to do the entire gasket like that but it’ll for sure stay dry after that, pointing to a bad gasket, and then you’d have to remove a perfectly functioning repair just to replace a gasket. It’s maybe a one beer job. 3 if you’re lucky.
Seal about 6-8” across and 3-4” up each lower corner with packing tape or that fancy chrome stuff I use. Start on glass and end on metal, encapsulating the rubber there. Hose it down really well in one corner. Check for leaks where mentioned above. Then do the other side. That’s the quick and dirty test. The long and painful test is to do the entire gasket like that but it’ll for sure stay dry after that, pointing to a bad gasket, and then you’d have to remove a perfectly functioning repair just to replace a gasket. It’s maybe a one beer job. 3 if you’re lucky.
Almost done with the split case parking brake install. Realized today I'll need to have my rear driveshaft shortened about an inch - ugh.
Let me say that a t-case rebuild on the bench is about 90% easier than in the truck. Surely a lot better on a lift, but on concrete... these old bones are aching a bit
Let me say that a t-case rebuild on the bench is about 90% easier than in the truck. Surely a lot better on a lift, but on concrete... these old bones are aching a bit
To all following my thread, @roadstr6 helped me offline a good bit. We didn't come up with a 100% solution to what was going wrong, but suspect it is the secondary fuel butterfly valve (maybe wrong terminology) was getting hung up on the paper gasket lip at the heat riser. Under the circumstances, the issue couldn't be replicated so we can't be sure, but that would make sense. I assumed the engine was stalling out and being starved of fuel after a long high RPM drive, in fact it was trying to come down to idle, but the flap was still open and essentially flooded the engine. Would explain the fuel rich exhaust too. Another issue that was identified was a cracked fuel line on the outgoing side of the fuel pump. I was amazed it hadn't started leaking yet, but it certainly could have been pulling air into the lines. Thankfully compression came back solid, so shouldn't have any headgasket or valve leaks. Overall, no real solution to post, but if someone has a similar issue I wanted it recorded that the butterfly valve catching seems to be the leading suspect. Thanks again to Dave for the socially distant patience.
I found another thread about sloshing in the rocker and clogged pinch weld drains. I think they are filling up in heavy rains and overflowing into the floor. I think they are either clogged or rusted shut. At least I think that’s what’s going on
