TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)

[40LandCruising]

@roadstr6 I appreciate the help, I am going to drive my moped out to where my 80 is parked now and chdck and take pics!

 

[40LandCruising]

So I made it out to the rig and unfortunately it appears all my steering is perfectly straight. The track bar has lots of clearance from the diff(I think it was just the picture made it look close) and nothing seems out of whack. Also doscovered a tree has completely coated my 80 in all its goodness.

 

[elkaholic]

Need a frontal picture. That panhard bar appears to be pushed back. Take a look at the attached off of my former '94

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If the panhard isn't touching the housing at rest, then it's not the source of his noise. If it was bent backwards, it would explain his alignment, but not the noise.

Turning would change the speed of the spider gears inside the carrier. If the dent broke some teeth off of the ring, putting metal into fuid suspension, or cracked the carrier, then that could easily be the noise.

 

[fourtrax]

Take picture of your tie rod ends in your tie rod , & drag link bars basically the stuff on the rear side of your front axle

 

[ROBsSON]

Ujoints off the Tacoma looking pretty good went ahead and got all 3 out center support bearing on the rear drive shaft my highway vibration went away.

 

[elkaholic]

Need a frontal picture. That panhard bar appears to be pushed back. Take a look at the attached off of my former '94

View attachment 1797241

I stand corrected ... Looked on the web for an image and I do see that there is a compound bend in the panhard ....

 

[roadstr6]

Yep. He’s got clearance, Clarence. Too bad that good news probably means bad news. How bad would the tie rod have to be bent upward for it to hit the front driveshaft? Could that be the issue? Let’s hope so. That would be a quick and easy fix and it too could explain noise when turning. Seems like he’d be toed waaay out though and the truck would be super sketchy on the road. We need more pics.

 

[fourtrax]

could have busted a control arm bushing. take a close look at all three on each control arm.

 

[AJR]

By the looks of your Instagram post, you could have busted a number of things.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

Typically, I am utterly incapable of accomplishing any vehicle related project unless there is a deadline crushing me. I work way too late into the night, then get stuck at work too long the next day, and end up running around like a madman packing all the stuff I neglected to pull out ahead of time so I end up leaving 3 hours after planned departure and rolling into camp in the dark (if I don't break down along the way).
Not this time! Swapped out Jolene's globes weeks ago. Tomorrow I'll hook up the Tech Stream, and set the spring pressures by cranking her torsion bars. And these showed up from Slee today so I can get the rear set too.
Everything's already pulled out of storage and I took a day off in advance. The prep for Vermont Overland might be downright calm.

 

[roadstr6]

@40LandCruising Johnny et al are probably right about the r&p damage but I know you just did the knuckles so I’m trying to think of any possible scenario that could cause the problem OTHER than having to tear it all back down and spend a lot of time and money on repairs. Johnny knows his sh@t. I’m basically spitballing and hoping for the best outcome. What will be, they say, will be.

 

[AJR]

Diagnosis is a systematic process of elimination.

Without that, you are just taking shots in the dark (or with a lot of experience, a poorly lit area). Even the case when you are pretty sure you know what the problem is, it’s best to eliminate the simple and easy things first. It’s much easier to visually inspect suspension components than it is to tear apart a front differential. Start with the easy things then go from there.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@40LandCruising Johnny et al are probably right about the r&p damage but I know you just did the knuckles so I’m trying to think of any possible scenario that could cause the problem OTHER than having to tear it all back down and spend a lot of time and money on repairs. Johnny knows his sh@t. I’m basically spitballing and hoping for the best outcome. What will be, they say, will be.

Diagnosis is a systematic process of elimination.

Without that, you are just taking shots in the dark (or with a lot of experience, a poorly lit area). Even the case when you are pretty sure you know what the problem is, it’s best to eliminate the simple and easy things first. It’s much easier to visually inspect suspension components than it is to tear apart a front differential. Start with the easy things then go from there.

You two are 100% correct. Proper troubleshooting methodology always eliminates the easiest things first!! Didn't mean to sound all doom and gloom with my earlier posts

 

[40LandCruising]

@AJR funny thing is I made it over that ledge and the next without breaking anything! It wasn’t until the third one in that was the easiest I had the unfortunate run in with a large rock.

Tomorrow I will try and take a look at the control arm bushings and anything else that possibly could have gotten damaged. I’ll also drain some gear oil to check for metal later this weekend. If I find any metal does that mean I’m gonna need a new ring and pinion or could it be un severe enough I’ll be good with a beating of the housing?

Also, I have a friend with a mini-truck buggy who told me about something called the “camo method” to remove birfs, I found a video about this on YouTube, does anyone know anything about this?

Thanks to everyone who has offered help and suggestions.

 

[40LandCruising]

The aforementioned “camo method”

 

[jfz80]

Been around for a while. Def a bit quicker and id not hesitate for a trail repair but your more likely to get contaminated lubes or a less than clean mating surface. If in a driveway doing maintenance id go ahead and tear down piece by piece.

Is it time for rotors cause now would be the time.

 

[jfz80]

Speaking of rotors...... cheap parts store parts strike again

Rebuilt the brakes before spring 16 trip and after all new oem parts the 100 series pads still would not fit. Even with removing the shims so i was forced to buy oreilly pads the day of departure.

22k later time for pads so i wanted to splurge and see if i couldnt get some better performance with the ebc setup. These were brand new oem rotors and look great except where the aftermarket pads did not use the available surface and now have left a ring of unworn rotor. That will give me little Contact area until worn and then a stepped pad. Really hate to pull these rotors to turn just that inner ring but its likely the best answer.

 

[jfz80]

But meanwhile the pig now starts with a key and got a new fuel filter and pump installed to fix a leak at the pump. Hell the big brute sound system even works once powered up. Need to dig into a vibration off throttle i suspect is maybe backside of tcase and ebrake drum related as all wlse feels tight. But almost 400 miles so far and other than continued gas fumes in cab loving it.

 

[roadstr6]

I am having a hell of a time bleeding the rear cylinders on my 55. They are new aftermarket ones (not something I purchased). I've tried pumping, pressure bleeding, vacuum bleeding, burping, disassembling the cylinders, adjusting, re-adjusting, re-re-adjusting. I still have to double pump the brakes to get lock-up. It's amazing how painful something so simple can be. Anyway, I'll keep at it until it's done...someday.