TWT -- The Wrenching Thread

[NCFJ]

Dave, have you checked to see if the bleeders are leaking at the threads? I've had this issue with new wheel cylinders in the past. I put a wrap of Teflon tape on the bleeder and problem went away. I was "hose" bleeding all 4 back to the master and noticed a constant stream of little bubbles even when not under pressure.

 

[jfz80]

I am having a hell of a time bleeding the rear cylinders on my 55. They are new aftermarket ones (not something I purchased). I've tried pumping, pressure bleeding, vacuum bleeding, burping, disassembling the cylinders, adjusting, re-adjusting, re-re-adjusting. I still have to double pump the brakes to get lock-up. It's amazing how painful something so simple can be. Anyway, I'll keep at it until it's done...someday.

Dave. Not a whole lot of help but i think i can point you in the right direction and perhaps @wngrog could help shed some light as hes been working over a rear drum setup for a while but has success now it seems like. Some Discussion in his theead here that you should be able to search out cylinder or double pump. Should be in last 10-12 pages i think.
Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB

Iirc
- check orientation of pistons... there is a very slight difference in ramp angles that matters
- theres a clip also that is important in orientation if they are present but i cannot explain that part any better.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Speaking of rotors...... cheap parts store parts strike again

Rebuilt the brakes before spring 16 trip and after all new oem parts the 100 series pads still would not fit. Even with removing the shims so i was forced to buy oreilly pads the day of departure.

22k later time for pads so i wanted to splurge and see if i couldnt get some better performance with the ebc setup. These were brand new oem rotors and look great except where the aftermarket pads did not use the available surface and now have left a ring of unworn rotor. That will give me little Contact area until worn and then a stepped pad. Really hate to pull these rotors to turn just that inner ring but its likely the best answer.
View attachment 1797730

How big is the step? Could maybe get away with driving the hub slowly with the engine and smoothing out with sandpaper? Super shadtree idea, I know

 

[40LandCruising]

@jfz80 I rebuilt my knuckles and did new rotors and calipers all the way around in May and I’m just trying to avoid doing it all again.

 

[40LandCruising]

I’ve done some reading on pirate and it sounds like the “Camo method” isn’t as easy as it seems so it looks like I might just do it the normal way.

Since all my grease and everything is still fresh do I need to worry about repacking bearings and the hub or just slap a little extra new grease in there when I reassemble?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I’ve done some reading on pirate and it sounds like the “Camo method” isn’t as easy as it seems so it looks like I might just do it the normal way.

Since all my grease and everything is still fresh do I need to worry about repacking bearings and the hub or just slap a little extra new grease in there when I reassemble?

Slap a little extra new grease in there. If you did everything properly in may, you can get away without replacing anything. Just make sure that you don't let the outer bearing fall on the ground when removing the hub, then clean and lube the spindle real well before the hub goes back on.

The birfield cavity will need to be repacked with grease.

 

[40LandCruising]

Slap a little extra new grease in there. If you did everything properly in may, you can get away without replacing anything. Just make sure that you don't let the outer bearing fall on the ground when removing the hub, then clean and lube the spindle real well before the hub goes back on.

The birfield cavity will need to be repacked with grease.

Will I have to clean out all the grease that’s already in the birf cavity or just add more as long as it is not contaminated?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Make a judgement call when you're in there man. If it were me I'd plan on repacking the birf cavity, so buy grease accordingly.

 

[NCFJ]

I love it when a plan works!

 

[lt1fire]

I love it when a plan works!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Water pump went out in Laura's car on the way home from a wedding in NY. Had to get a tow home 247 miles. Water pumps are a major PITA to get to with this platform.

Water pump next to thermostat. Yes, it's an electric water pump:

Yes, center frame, between the engine block, frame rail, sub frame, sway bar, alternator and just about everything else inside this damn engine bay. Swear to god I could replace the head gasket with less cursing than this water pump.

These next two pics were taken after the new waterpump and thermostat were installed. The sway bar, PS pump line with bracket, and coolant line that are below and in front of the pump in this pic had to be removed to access.

 

[4LowandSlow]

So what you're saying is never again?

 

[NCFJ]

Some jobs are just better left to your mechanic. I changed Heather's rear plugs and coil packs when she first got he Avalon. Had to remove entire plenum and intake to get to them, as per book etc. Never again, I'll pay the dealer first. My back ached for a week.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Nah, I love this car. Now that I've done it once, I could do it a second time twice as fast, especially now that I've pointed all the stupid clamps in accessible directions

As for the mechanic, I haven't found one I trust to work on my cars. Last time I tried to have the oil changed in laura's jetta, they somehow broke a radiator outlet off, and ruined the shifter bushings, making the car undrivable. Of course, it wasn't "their fault", so I got to pay ~$700 to get my oil changed

 

[roadstr6]

A buddy of mine has an older BMW X3. The cooling system hoses have some sort of fancy plastic click-in connectors, one of which crumbled into pieces while he was trying to replace something else in the engine bay. I told him to cut off the connector, jam that hose over the plastic nipple and put a $.50 worm clamp on it. Wouldn't work. Hose was an odd size and fit too loose on the nipple. He said the hoses and connectors came as a group of four or five as one assembly under a single BMW part number. He ended up paying over $200 to replace a hose clamp. No thanks. I'll stick with my Toyotas.

 

[roadstr6]

Some jobs are just better left to your mechanic. I changed Heather's rear plugs and coil packs when she first got he Avalon. Had to remove entire plenum and intake to get to them, as per book etc. Never again, I'll pay the dealer first. My back ached for a week.

My '02 Avalon has a weepy rear valve cover gasket. Same freakin' job! I am dreading fixing that.

 

[NCFJ]

Change the plugs and coil packs while you are there.

 

[NCFJ]

Pictures suck, Dune Beige/clear.

 

[ROBsSON]

60 got some love today new fuel filter and driven around the block the new carb that got swapped on seems to have helped with some of the stumbling but I don’t have the throttle cable set right mess with that tomorrow.

Also got some stuff for the Tacoma in the mail today!

 

[fj40z]

Not really wrenching but I did spend 8 hours on the 4Runner today. Did a wash, then clay barred the whole car. Followed by a compound then a waxing. First time really digging in on a black car, and it needed it badly. To not be rusted out at all the paint was in terrible shape. Didn’t turn out to bad though.