TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (21 Viewers)

[lumbee1]

that is a loaded question. i'm not a a/c guy Roxx can provide a better answer. but, if was doing it and wanted to know how much oil to add.
i would take the old compressor and drain it into a something you can measure. in ml. see how much came out
then drain the new compressor and measure what oil come out if any.
you can drain them from the suction port. might have to spin the compressor pulley come to help vacate the oil.
i am sure you lost some oil that was mixed in the Freon when it escaped and if you replaced the dryer/receiver that might be another 10cc. if you replaced any other parts there will be trace oils in them as well. if you have had a few leaks then even more oil might have escaped.

i would probably poor in oil to the amount of somewhere between what you recovered from the old compressor an the 120cc indicated on the factory chart below based on what i didnt touch.

View attachment 1753960

The Denso comes pre-oiled, but I still added a little bit to mine before installing it. Check the documentation that comes with the compressor.

 

[lt1fire]

Not really wrenching but I will be turning a tiny screwdriver... lol

After Andrea loosing the only key for the cruiser for 4 hours and a new one from the dealer costing $400 plus... i ordered a key fob from amazon. It can be programmed with the master key and tech stream. Total cost $26. Gotta love amazon in a pinch, ordered last night for 2 day shipping. Was on the doorstep before I even got up this morning. Makes up for loosing the 1 hour shipping we used to get at the apartment.

Already have another key cut to transfer the fob in to.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Changed out the fuel filter head in my duramax. Hopefully it was the source of air in the fuel lines which would cause the truck to die and not start (randomly). If it’s not this then I start replacing all rubber fuel hoses.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got the correct input gear for my ecobox in from power driven diesel! Mock up can now continue.

 

[lt1fire]

Not really wrenching but I will be turning a tiny screwdriver... lol

After Andrea loosing the only key for the cruiser for 4 hours and a new one from the dealer costing $400 plus... i ordered a key fob from amazon. It can be programmed with the master key and tech stream. Total cost $26. Gotta love amazon in a pinch, ordered last night for 2 day shipping. Was on the doorstep before I even got up this morning. Makes up for loosing the 1 hour shipping we used to get at the apartment.

Already have another key cut to transfer the fob in to.

View attachment 1754524

Edit on that you don't need tech stream I read that on a really old post.

to program the new key to start the truck you do.

1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
4. Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key.
5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
6. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.
7. After 80 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
8. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

Then to program the fob to unlock and lock the doors you do this




This way works with a 98-02 but you need to have the master key first.

the 03+ I believe uses a different method.

 

[JohnVee]

^^^^ @FrackMacker Good info for your file?

 

[80Kiter]

^^^^ @FrackMacker Good info of your file?

I tried the lock/unlock thing and the lock actuators started not functioning in the middle of it - I guess they’re tired with age - maybe I’ll give it another shot.

 

[80Kiter]

I tried the lock/unlock thing and the lock actuators started not functioning in the middle of it - I guess they’re tired with age - maybe I’ll give it another shot.

Oh good this is the manual / non-power way! very nice.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

NP205s are heavy as s***. It'll all fit, after most of the floor has been removed

In parallel, we have slider progress:

 

[erymer]

No pics but the Sequoia 150 amp alternator upgrade got done Saturday. Got the brackets and harness kit from Photoman. Kit was top notch and went in easily. The main difficulty was from not being able to see s***e in there while doing it. The 80 is back to life and running like a champ. Only pic I took was when I finished. Trying to remember why I even bother wearing gloves.

 

[lt1fire]

No pics but the Sequoia 150 amp alternator upgrade got done Saturday. Got the brackets and harness kit from Photoman. Kit was top notch and went in easily. The main difficulty was from not being able to see s***e in there while doing it. The 80 is back to life and running like a champ. Only pic I took was when I finished. Trying to remember why I even bother wearing gloves.

View attachment 1762277

To protect those beautiful hands

 

[erymer]

To protect those beautiful hands

jingaling jingaling

 

[stevezero]

#blackarmsmatter, #i'llfixthatoilleakeventually #theoilkeepstheengineandframefromrusting

I cant imagine why your old alternator may have failed with all that liquid protection

 

[NCFJ]

Precisely why I use Simple Green and a pressure washer even on motors and trans that I am removing.

YUK!!!!!!

 

[40LandCruising]

I’ve been noticing a strange rubbing noise from my Ps rear brake, I crawled under to check it out and noticed the little shield thingy majig is missing. Is this an important piece? The noise I hear sounds like my pad rubbing the rotor, this could be because I replaced the DS caliper and pads, and haven’t done the PS pads yet. I need to do that

 

[sleepycruiser]

Ok, finally getting around to ordering parts. I guess I will try the clutch first on my AC. Do I only need the hub?

00 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser A/C Compressor Clutch Hub - Climate Control - Genuine - PartsGeek

 

[GLTHFJ60]

View attachment 1762319 View attachment 1762320 I’ve been noticing a strange rubbing noise from my Ps rear brake, I crawled under to check it out and noticed the little shield thingy majig is missing. Is this an important piece? The noise I hear sounds like my pad rubbing the rotor, this could be because I replaced the DS caliper and pads, and haven’t done the PS pads yet. I need to do that

Not important imo. Most trucks I've seen are missing that bit.

 

[40LandCruising]

Not important imo. Most trucks I've seen are missing that bit.

Is it just a dust shield basically?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Is it just a dust shield basically?

Correct:
47777-60010 - PROTECTOR, DUST BOOT, RH

 

[40LandCruising]

So last night the noise that had sounded like rubbing turned violently worse. I just got home from work and took my PS brake apart and am shocked. The outside pad is barely worn at all, and the inside pad had no material on it at all. ZERO. The outside of my rotor is fine put the inside has a grove in it now. Can I throw new pads on this and be fine or do I need to do the rotor as well? If I do need a rotor can I survive with just new pads till a rotor comes in or will it eat the pads? One of the pins was also hard to remove, has some rust on it, could this be the cause of the wear?