If it's going to be parted out I'd like a shot at some pieces for mine as well. I'm missing some things...tailgate handle being top of the list at the moment, but I'm sure there is lots more I'll need but just don't know it yet.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (35 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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40LandCruising
Anderson
I tried using zip ties in place of it to avoid the noises it makes for the .75mi drive to my house, they failed within 4 feet.
Luckily I had a spare at my house(don’t know why it wasn’t in the 80) and I got it installed with some more red locktite.
Two possibilities:
1. you're not putting enough torque on the bolts
2. the threads in the knuckle are stripped out
Do yourself a favor and figure out the cause before you cause an accident! Loctite is not a cure-all!
1. you're not putting enough torque on the bolts
2. the threads in the knuckle are stripped out
Do yourself a favor and figure out the cause before you cause an accident! Loctite is not a cure-all!
Something's not right. While losing a bolt is not uncommon, losing one a month is. Check threads for galling. Something is amiss.
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #3,406
90 ft/lb is the torque spec.
But you shouldnt be losing them withnor without locktite. Fwiw i would not want red loctite on a serviceable part like the calipers. But i get why. Are you using a hardware bolt with a 13mm head ?
Like said check the threads in the knuckle..... as well as the bolt.
But you shouldnt be losing them withnor without locktite. Fwiw i would not want red loctite on a serviceable part like the calipers. But i get why. Are you using a hardware bolt with a 13mm head ?
Like said check the threads in the knuckle..... as well as the bolt.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Need to replace my AC compressor. One shop said it was ok....another said it should be replaced. It makes a loud whirring/whining noise when engaged.....but cools fine. When it is turned off no noise. Looks like the pulley is shaking to me.
$650 to replace the compressor and flush the lines. $1300 if it needs the drier, etc.
$650 to replace the compressor and flush the lines. $1300 if it needs the drier, etc.
fourtrax
SILVER Star
If it's still working and the compressor hasn't gernaded there's no reason to flush the lines. A dryer is like 40 bucks, and it's a good idea to replace it Everytime you open the system. Air compressor with the dryer replacement should run about 650.
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sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
I wonder where he got the $1300.....so I will just have him do the compressor and no flush. Should the drier be replaced?
I’m going to pick it up tomorrow (have to go to Greenville today and won’t make it back in time)...they are going to do the work on uesday...so I have time to ask some questions.
I’m going to pick it up tomorrow (have to go to Greenville today and won’t make it back in time)...they are going to do the work on uesday...so I have time to ask some questions.
fourtrax
SILVER Star
I fixed my typo, the dryer should always be replaced .
might be a good time to get an older dryer off of like a 91 that's short so it doesn't hang down so low that might help for some more off-road protection. Keep in mind on the 91 through 93 used R12 instead of R134a but the dryer should be a dryer.
1300 would have to be going in underneath the dash and taking the evaporator out and replacing the expansion valve and then maybe a new condenser. I would only do that if your compressor grenaded , just to make sure you got any metal or debris out of the system. That expansion valve hole is really small.
might be a good time to get an older dryer off of like a 91 that's short so it doesn't hang down so low that might help for some more off-road protection. Keep in mind on the 91 through 93 used R12 instead of R134a but the dryer should be a dryer.
1300 would have to be going in underneath the dash and taking the evaporator out and replacing the expansion valve and then maybe a new condenser. I would only do that if your compressor grenaded , just to make sure you got any metal or debris out of the system. That expansion valve hole is really small.
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40LandCruising
Anderson
The strange thing about this is that it has been different bolts. And the bolts torque down so I don’t think the threads are gone
40LandCruising
Anderson
I’m using new Toyota OEM bolts from the dealer and I’m only using the red loctite because this has happened again.
Are you using a torque wrench or a few grunts?
If the bolts are new, then it's either improper torque or the threads in the knuckle are compromised, via galling like dave said, partially stripped, etc. I wouldn't assume that it's fixed if this same method has failed in the past. I'd recommend pulling the wheel and caliper, then inspecting the threaded knuckle holes carefully (after cleaning them meticulously).
Another thing to mention, since you're putting a fluid (loctite) in the bolt holes, you need to reduce the torque setting by ~10%. The fluid in the threads will reduce friction. This means it takes less torque to get to the same bolt tension, when compared to a dry torque.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Gotcha. The noise seems to coincide with the RPMs of the vehicle. I did some research and I had convinced myself that it needed the bearing replaced...and the pulley does seem a little wobbly when the AC is engaged.
I think the $1300 included them changing out all of the lines, etc....I will get more clarification tomorrow. I might get another opinion if I can find another place tomorrow that can take a look. If the compressor was bad wouldn’t I experience cooling issues? No issues with cooling at all....just the noise.
fourtrax
SILVER Star
yes if the air condition system is working like it's supposed to other than just some noise it's not the internal side of compressor it could be the clutch/pulley assembly or could even be a loose bracket or a bad idler pulley.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Thanks. I asked him about that on the phone and he just said it was the compressor. Do you happen to know the part number for the clutch/pulley assembly, bracket or idler pulley for a 100 series? I will assume that would be way less than $650...
fourtrax
SILVER Star
The clutch assembly is 88410-50100
Idler pulley #1 (tensioner) 16603-0W010
Idler pulley #2 16604-50030
With the belt removed you can spin the idler pulleys and see if there's any noise or excessive drag
Idler pulley #1 (tensioner) 16603-0W010
Idler pulley #2 16604-50030
With the belt removed you can spin the idler pulleys and see if there's any noise or excessive drag
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Thanks....let me see what I can figure out!
If the pulley on the compressor is shaking most likely the nose of the compressor is broken. There is a bolt in the front and a retainer. What i have seen a lot is that the bearing gets bad and breaks the nose of the compressor. It is not salvagable at that point. You have to replace the whole compressor.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Gotcha. Sounds like I should just have them do it. The cheap a$$ in me wants it to be something easy.
But the main mechanic used to be a master toyo tech but now specializes in Honda/Acura. I was referred to him by a mechanic I trust...but that guy can only do brakes, alignments, etc.
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