TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (15 Viewers)

[ROBsSON]

So today I took the truck to get an alignment and they said my inner tie rods were seized up and they couldn’t move it but damn if the didn’t try the threads have some nice flat spots on them and the inner tierods have been rounded off.... Now they say I need an new inner and outer tie rods.

...but good news only 750 for them to do it!

 

[40LandCruising]

Are you using a torque wrench or a few grunts?

If the bolts are new, then it's either improper torque or the threads in the knuckle are compromised, via galling like dave said, partially stripped, etc. I wouldn't assume that it's fixed if this same method has failed in the past. I'd recommend pulling the wheel and caliper, then inspecting the threaded knuckle holes carefully (after cleaning them meticulously).

Another thing to mention, since you're putting a fluid (loctite) in the bolt holes, you need to reduce the torque setting by ~10%. The fluid in the threads will reduce friction. This means it takes less torque to get to the same bolt tension, when compared to a dry torque.

I’ll be honest I’ve just been using the old grunt method because it’s a tight spot to get a torque wrench in. And I had no idea about the loctite reduction, I’ll check the torques with my torque wrench.

 

[JohnVee]

I’ll be honest I’ve just been using the old grunt method because it’s a tight spot to get a torque wrench in. And I had no idea about the loctite reduction, I’ll check the torques with my torque wrench.

An absolutely terrible and dangerous place to not do it properly. I've never had any trouble getting the torque wrench in there. They're not very expensive for the types of insurance they provide. If you can't get a TW in there then you're likely to also not be giving it nearly as much grunt as you think you are.

 

[sleepycruiser]

@fourtrax @Roxx

I picked up the LC this morning and spoke with one of the guys. I asked him how the compressor would still cool, but just be making the sound. His answer ‘a bad part’. I asked him about the bearing or the clutch and he didn’t give me a definitive answer.....so I am taking it to the place that told me the compressor was fine (in April).....they packed it and recharged it....so they are going to re-check it. Anything else I should ask them?

 

[Roxx]

Loose the belt and take middle bolt out. That will let you pull the middle part of the clutch out. Then you can see if the compressor is bad. There you will find a retainer if you want take the retainer out and the whole clutch will come out. That will be what i will do.

 

[sleepycruiser]

The shop that I have used several times before actually could squeeze me in today....so I am there now and they are checking it out again. Before they said the compressor looked fairly new.......but the noise was still present after the last time they ‘fixed’ it.

 

[sleepycruiser]

They said it is the bearing in the compressor....and that these have to have the whole compressor replaced. I know on some you can replace just the bearing....apparently not on these.

 

[jfz80]

So you’re going to believe some guy selling you parts versus several guys who have done this several times to save themselves many dollars?

I would determine if it is the clutch bearing or the compressor bearing if it is noisy when engaged and disengaged then it may be the compressor.

 

[sleepycruiser]

So you’re going to believe some guy selling you parts versus several guys who have done this several times to save themselves many dollars?

I would determine if it is the clutch bearing or the compressor bearing if it is noisy when engaged and disengaged then it may be the compressor.

Are you saying that if it is either the clutch bearing or the compressor bearing that either could be replaced without replacing the whole compressor? I don’t know much about it....except mainly what I have learned in the last few days. Trust me, I would rather fix a bearing rather than a compressor...if possible....but I have 2 mechanics telling me it is the compressor.....anyone near Asheville and want to check it out??

 

[jfz80]

Oops all this with caveat of applying to an 80.... forgot you're a hundred guy. The clutch bearing is replaceable as well as the clutch assembly. The idler bearing is as well too. Now if its partnof rhe compressor itself i believe you are best suited to replace it. Coolstream tech owner is on mud (jorge?) and a supporting vendor if you want some good parts or knowledge.

Auto AC Parts Store, Tucson AZ | Auto Heating Parts | Call 520-918-3604

 

[sleepycruiser]

Oops all this with caveat of applying to an 80.... forgot you're a hundred guy. The clutch bearing is replaceable as well as the clutch assembly. The idler bearing is as well too. Now if its partnof rhe compressor itself i believe you are best suited to replace it. Coolstream tech owner is on mud (jorge?) and a supporting vendor if you want some good parts or knowledge.

Auto AC Parts Store, Tucson AZ | Auto Heating Parts | Call 520-918-3604

Yeah, I should probably take the pic of the 80 out of my avatar!!

I called the shop to see if they could just do the clutch/bearing if that was the issue and he said they could but it would be the same price....$600-ish. He also said that if they do the compressor and there was metal in the lines it would end up costing $1300. Still cooling fine and the noise is external so shouldn’t be any metal.
I should have started learning this stuff earlier in life.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I am posting this info bc at this point I just don’t know. @Greenbean used to work with the mechanic and said he was a good guy.

Ok....so just spoke to the head mechanic. Yesterday I was told that there ‘might’ be metal in the lines....if there was it would be more expensive. Today they said they checked yesterday and that there was metal in the lines, which is an internal failure, so since there was metal......

He said I have 3 options:
$650 - replace compressor and drier, flush lines = no warranty be of possibility of still having metal in the lines, which could kill the new compressor

$1400- receiver, drier, 2x expansion valves (rear AC) 1 year labor warranty/3 year parts

$1500- full kit with lifetime warranty

 

[jamesurq]

Jesus. Does that include a reacharound?









Edit: I’m sorry. I have no idea if that’s a good price.... but I know a good joke when I think of one.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Pretty much what I thought. So the mechanic told me that to check for metal in the lines that they had to pull a hose from the compressor.....wouldn’t they have had to recharge the entire system had they done that? They made no mention of that yesterday....weird.

 

[40LandCruising]

I got my brand new Denso AC compressor in the mail today, and I plan on installing it tomorrow. But I am confused as to how to determine AC oil. I don’t know if my compressor shipped with or without oil and how much.

 

[fourtrax]

yes, they have to recover the Freon from the system to open the line and inspect. then pull a vacuum and recharge the system to return it to operational state. that process takes some time.

 

[fourtrax]

that is a loaded question. i'm not a a/c guy Roxx can provide a better answer. but, if was doing it and wanted to know how much oil to add.
i would take the old compressor and drain it into a something you can measure. in ml. see how much came out
then drain the new compressor and measure what oil come out if any.
you can drain them from the suction port. might have to spin the compressor pulley come to help vacate the oil.
i am sure you lost some oil that was mixed in the Freon when it escaped and if you replaced the dryer/receiver that might be another 10cc. if you replaced any other parts there will be trace oils in them as well. if you have had a few leaks then even more oil might have escaped.

i would probably poor in oil to the amount of somewhere between what you recovered from the old compressor an the 120cc indicated on the factory chart below based on what i didnt touch.

 

[sleepycruiser]

yes, they have to recover the Freon from the system to open the line and inspect. then pull a vacuum and recharge the system to return it to operational state. that process takes some time.

No way they did that....they never mentioned any process.

 

[fourtrax]

Then they don't know for sure that Metals inside.

 

[Roxx]

If it is cooling there is not way it is any debry inside the system. They are going to take the compressor out put the new one in and change the dryer. To do it right and charge what you are being charged. The have to change txv “for compressor warranty” change dryer and all the o rings with it.