TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (17 Viewers)

[fourtrax]

Didn't Manafree have the same product in their +4 lifts years ago? or am I remembering something different.

Either way nice score

If I remember correctly they had a bracket that came down from the frame. I believe there was some issues with it flexing or something having to do with the way it was attached and how long it was. But, don't remember I know they had quit making it when I was looking for something.

 

[MBest75]

So the 2F is desmoged now, Weber Carb is installed (thanks to @roadstr6 for the air cleaner)...It was running rich but I fixed by adjusting jets and properly adjusted using a Vacuum gauge. I'm feeling pretty good about my skills, take it out for a test drive and things are running well, big improvement from the stock unit which had numerous leaks and needed to be rebuilt. Come home, leave the engine running in the driveway and doing a visual inspection. Turns out my PCV Valve hose was disconnected. I go to connect it and the engine dies, I disconnect it again engine perks right back up. I had the Vac gauge still connected, so I disconnected that reconnected PCV and the engine runs fine. Turns out it just needs one of those two hoses loose.

I would have assumed that by pulling either hose loose, it'd create a leak and kill the engine like other vacuum lines. Am I right in assuming that the Valve is stuck shut, thus it's unable to draw air through the crankcase, which pushes air into the air cleaner through the inlet in the rear of the valve cover? Either way going to replace the PCV Valve and hopefully that'll get air flowing properly through the crank case.

 

[S4Cruiser]

So the 2F is desmoged now, Weber Carb is installed (thanks to @roadstr6 for the air cleaner)...It was running rich but I fixed by adjusting jets and properly adjusted using a Vacuum gauge. I'm feeling pretty good about my skills, take it out for a test drive and things are running well, big improvement from the stock unit which had numerous leaks and needed to be rebuilt. Come home, leave the engine running in the driveway and doing a visual inspection. Turns out my PCV Valve hose was disconnected. I go to connect it and the engine dies, I disconnect it again engine perks right back up. I had the Vac gauge still connected, so I disconnected that reconnected PCV and the engine runs fine. Turns out it just needs one of those two hoses loose.

I would have assumed that by pulling either hose loose, it'd create a leak and kill the engine like other vacuum lines. Am I right in assuming that the Valve is stuck shut, thus it's unable to draw air through the crankcase, which pushes air into the air cleaner through the inlet in the rear of the valve cover? Either way going to replace the PCV Valve and hopefully that'll get air flowing properly through the crank case.

There was just a thread in the 40 section about the Pcv valve and the symptoms of it not functioning properly...let me find and link it.

Edit - see link. Someone please school me on pcv valves

 

[40LandCruising]

So I’ve been driving the 80 around without caster correction for sometime now and I think it’s time I address it.

Am I correct in thinking that caster is just the way the axle is rotated?
Is there a way to measure the caster so I know how much to fix?
I was going to do the caster correction like @lumbee1 with the welded tabs, but I’m starting to not feel that ambitious and am thinking about buying plates.

Also, will fixing caster help with the play in my steering? It had zero play and handled great before the lift and after the lift (3.5”) my steering has play and she’s a beast to keep on line,

 

[stevezero]

i had a lot of play in my power steering on my 80, even after having new tie rod ends and relay rod ends. I had about 3/8 of a turn of slop in the wheel, and it was going to wander left to right. I checked my power steering fluid, and it was black, like goo. Ive flushed about 2 or 3 quarts of power steering fluid through it, its gotten much better.

My lift was only OME stock height, not a taller lift. You'll probably need to do some flavor of caster correction, but start off with the power steering fluid flush first. maybe youll get lucky and have a cheap fix for a change

 

[MBest75]

There was just a thread in the 40 section about the Pcv valve and the symptoms of it not functioning properly...let me find and link it.

Edit - see link. Someone please school me on pcv valves

Amazingly enough this thread didn't turn up in a search this morning. No I read about 12 other threads using PCV Valve and Clogged PCV Valve in the 40 section and got nothing similar. Good find!

 

[fourtrax]

Just go get an alignment and they can tell you. If you take some measurements from the center of your hub, straight up to the bottom of the fender both sides and then reach out to landtank he could probably tell you pretty close to how much it was out.

 

[40LandCruising]

Just go get an alignment and they can tell you. If you take some measurements from the center of your hub, straight up to the bottom of the fender both sides and then reach out to landtank he could probably tell you pretty close to how much it was out.

I got my toe in adjusted recently and he gave me an entire spec sheet so now that I think about it that sheet probably says what my caster is.

 

[40LandCruising]

i had a lot of play in my power steering on my 80, even after having new tie rod ends and relay rod ends. I had about 3/8 of a turn of slop in the wheel, and it was going to wander left to right. I checked my power steering fluid, and it was black, like goo. Ive flushed about 2 or 3 quarts of power steering fluid through it, its gotten much better.

My lift was only OME stock height, not a taller lift. You'll probably need to do some flavor of caster correction, but start off with the power steering fluid flush first. maybe youll get lucky and have a cheap fix for a change

I have a power steering leak so I actually am constantly topping off my resivoir.

 

[lt1fire]

If I remember correctly they had a bracket that came down from the frame. I believe there was some issues with it flexing or something having to do with the way it was attached and how long it was. But, don't remember I know they had quit making it when I was looking for something.

Ah that's right it was frame attached. Yeah I remember the issues, was wondering if this one fixed them but different mounting points so its a moot question.

 

[lumbee1]

I got my toe in adjusted recently and he gave me an entire spec sheet so now that I think about it that sheet probably says what my caster is.

Your caster angle will be on the sheet but that doesn't give the full picture. Even if the rest of the steering is tight (new TRE's and properly adjusted steering box), a bad caster angle can cause the Cruiser steering to float and wander at speed. On the other hand, correct caster between 2* and 4* but bad TRE's, bushings, and steering box out of adjustment will give the steering a large vague dead zone causing constant correction at speed. You need to identify the exact nature of the problem you are trying to fix.

To check the dead zone and fix it:
With the Cruiser started and sitting still, put a ruler on the dash pointed towards the drive to give a reference point. Put a piece of painters tape on the steering wheel to identify center. Turn the steering wheel with one finger to the right till you feel resistance. Turn the steering wheel to the left until you feel resistance. This dead zone between the two points should be 40mm (1.6 inches). If it is more than 40mm and your TRE's look fine, your steering box needs to be adjusted. Get a right angle bit driver with a flat head bit and a 14mm wrench. Pull the left most flap off the drivers's side wheel well. Now, that you can see the top of the steering box, put the bit driver in the slot on the threaded shaft. Use the wrench to loosen the nut slightly. Turn the threaded rod 1/4 turn and no more. Hold the threaded rod with the bit driver and tighten the nut back down. It takes longer to type it out than to adjust the steering box. Start the Cruiser and check the dead zone again.

To check caster, review your sheet to find out what you are starting with. Shoot for 3* caster. From what I've read, 4* can cause quick steering and obviously 2* can cause floaty steering but better than what you have. Caster plates have caster correction degrees associated with them and it's just simple addition.

 

[40LandCruising]

Your caster angle will be on the sheet but that doesn't give the full picture. Even if the rest of the steering is tight (new TRE's and properly adjusted steering box), a bad caster angle can cause the Cruiser steering to float and wander at speed. On the other hand, correct caster between 2* and 4* but bad TRE's, bushings, and steering box out of adjustment will give the steering a large vague dead zone causing constant correction at speed. You need to identify the exact nature of the problem you are trying to fix.

To check the dead zone and fix it:
With the Cruiser started and sitting still, put a ruler on the dash pointed towards the drive to give a reference point. Put a piece of painters tape on the steering wheel to identify center. Turn the steering wheel with one finger to the right till you feel resistance. Turn the steering wheel to the left until you feel resistance. This dead zone between the two points should be 40mm (1.6 inches). If it is more than 40mm and your TRE's look fine, your steering box needs to be adjusted. Get a right angle bit driver with a flat head bit and a 14mm wrench. Pull the left most flap off the drivers's side wheel well. Now, that you can see the top of the steering box, put the bit driver in the slot on the threaded shaft. Use the wrench to loosen the nut slightly. Turn the threaded rod 1/4 turn and no more. Hold the threaded rod with the bit driver and tighten the nut back down. It takes longer to type it out than to adjust the steering box. Start the Cruiser and check the dead zone again.

To check caster, review your sheet to find out what you are starting with. Shoot for 3* caster. From what I've read, 4* can cause quick steering and obviously 2* can cause floaty steering but better than what you have. Caster plates have caster correction degrees associated with them and it's just simple addition.

I imagine it is the caster because my steering was 100% perfect before my lift. I will go look for that sheet here shortly and see what it says. I definetely have floating steering now, not wuick.

 

[40LandCruising]

This is a picture of the sheet I have, I’m
Not sure if it says the caster or not, anyone see it?

 

[fourtrax]

not on there. take it back and ask for it.

 

[roadstr6]

So I’ve been driving the 80 around without caster correction for sometime now and I think it’s time I address it.

Am I correct in thinking that caster is just the way the axle is rotated?
Is there a way to measure the caster so I know how much to fix?
I was going to do the caster correction like @lumbee1 with the welded tabs, but I’m starting to not feel that ambitious and am thinking about buying plates.

Also, will fixing caster help with the play in my steering? It had zero play and handled great before the lift and after the lift (3.5”) my steering has play and she’s a beast to keep on line,

Anderson, You are correct in that caster measures the rotation of the axle housing. Basically, in our trucks, the front pinion should point down by 2-3 degrees. To get an exact measure of caster, remove the front driveshaft from the axle and put an angle finder on the front driveshaft flange on the axle side. That will tell you where you're at. When I lifted Cotton, I used 850J / 863 springs. I pressed in offset correction bushings and still, my caster is only .5 degrees. My truck wanders too. I just got a set of Landtank's new plates for 2.5" lifts. I have not installed them yet, but I plan to do that soon along with factory bushings. I believe your set-up will be fine with the plates for 2.5" lifts. You can take a measurement from center of front hub to fender lip and PM Landtank and he will tell you whether the 2.5" plates will be sufficient. There is such a thing as too much caster. Don't blindly order plates without knowing what you need. Most plates are for 4" lifts. I believe Landtank is the only one making the 2.5" plates.

 

[lt1fire]

[QUOTE="lt1fire, post: 11732336, member: Yeah 1200 for a new one... not sure if I want a used one since there was no warning at all.

Agree on used concern.

Is that just the pump?. I thought it was more (26-3200) and all integrated. There might be a difference amongst the years as well.[/QUOTE]


Found a rebuilt pump on ebay for much less than a new one. Got it yesterday, got to where the truck is at 9 and ran out of usable light in the engine bay at around 930. Got the bolts out of the motor just couldn't find the indent to pry it off with the lack of light. Should get it buttoned back up tonight.

 

[lumbee1]

Anderson, You are correct in that caster measures the rotation of the axle housing. Basically, in our trucks, the front pinion should point down by 2-3 degrees. To get an exact measure of caster, remove the front driveshaft from the axle and put an angle finder on the front driveshaft flange on the axle side. That will tell you where you're at. When I lifted Cotton, I used 850J / 863 springs. I pressed in offset correction bushings and still, my caster is only .5 degrees. My truck wanders too. I just got a set of Landtank's new plates for 2.5" lifts. I have not installed them yet, but I plan to do that soon along with factory bushings. I believe your set-up will be fine with the plates for 2.5" lifts. You can take a measurement from center of front hub to fender lip and PM Landtank and he will tell you whether the 2.5" plates will be sufficient. There is such a thing as too much caster. Don't blindly order plates without knowing what you need. Most plates are for 4" lifts. I believe Landtank is the only one making the 2.5" plates.

Offset bushing do not last nearly as long as OEM bushings and will become loose over time. I've read the average life is 3 to 5 years depending on mileage and conditions. The outer bushing sleeve can separate from the poly and/or the inner sleeve can separate from the poly. When this happens on one bushing, more stress is placed on the remaining bushing on the same side. When both bushings fail, driving becomes SCARY. The truck will wander badly and will be difficult to control above 40 mph. Steering input is greatly exaggerated causing overcorrection as the axle shifts around.

My offset bushings failed on the driver's side. My rear bushing sleeve fell out when I removed the control arm and the poly easily pushed out of the outer sleeve on the other bushing indicating the poly was no long connected and the bushing was rotating. I would much rather drive the Cruiser with really bad negative caster than have the bushings fail again. That's why I installed OEM rubber bushings and made my own drop brackets.

 

[joyRidaz]

HCC18_prep_update_1

Finally fabbed up a battery tie-down for the 60... used an old kick-panel from a busted dishwasher I was taking to the dump. A bit of cutting, grinding, bending, welding and a quick coat of black gloss..

Certainly beats the hacks/temporary methods that I’ve had to put in place for ONSC sanctioned events. Small but impactful victory

As for this postings title, it was inspired by one of my new favorite shows on Netflix, MR robot..

 

[2RUNNERTOM]

Blew my front diff coming home from Uwharrie today. Luckily it didn't fully blow until I was on the way home. Brakes were being strange and when i came to a full stop it just went BOOM. Pulled off and pulled the driveshaft and locked the center and went home. Front side took down 2 80 series front diffs today. Was planning for a regear and ARBs in a few months but I guess I'm going to have to figure out how to finance it sooner

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Bummer, but at least you get to upgrade!