Sucks! Good luck with the fix.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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That suck Del..... west Texas off road is a good one to use to rebuild Yota boxes
Man, Del. Sorry to hear that. If it makes you feel any better I have to say that is one saweet truck. It looks so killer, even on a roll back! You'll get it where it needs to be. If it were mine, I'd just sit in the shop and stare at it all day.
Your dad is Rob? Oh boy. Give me a call anytime or text me your info so I can have it handy. Always willing to help the son of Rob.
ROBsSON
Yeah thats my dad
Yup that's him seems hes made friend everywhere he goes and had been able to help the cruiser community quite a bit I hope to do the same! Lot to live up to though lol and for sure I'll shoot you a message. Thanks in advance for the help!
lumbee1
Native American
Well... I got home Sunday and the truck was stuttering. I think it was pissed I didn't take it out on the trails on Saturday at Logan's Run. The stutter only happens at idle, is random, and varies in intensity. I've been burning more oil than usual since the Grand Canyon trip which gives me the impression my valve guides are letting a lot of oil through but not the ultimate source of the problem. The other candidates are PCV and fuel pump relay. Any suggestions?
Any Smoke from the exhaust?
...Stutter at Idle, makes me think fuel issue initially. Hows the fuel pressure? Maybe put a gauge on it to see what the pressure is when it stutters. How is your grounds, battery terminals, charging system? I have seen bad grounds cause stuttering due to lack of voltage.
lumbee1
Native American
Any Smoke from the exhaust?
How is your grounds, battery terminals, charging system? I have seen bad grounds cause stuttering due to lack of voltage.
Electrical is all good. I think my valve guides leak enough oil into the cylinder to cause the white smoke on startup. I don't know if I'm smoking when the truck stutters. The truck runs smooth under throttle.
Electrical all good? TPS tested and associated harness inspected? Idle stutter is one of the classic symptoms.
Next in line of quick easy things to do .....
1. Clean the air idle control valve
2. Check PCV for gunk ... if dirty, clean or replace.
BTW .... White smoke? Not something you would see as a result of valve seals. Take a look at the bottom of the oil filler cap and see if it is covered in oily snot.
lumbee1
Native American
The wife said it was "white smoke". The TPS was replaced last year due to crazy surging idle. The IAC was thoroughly cleaned along with the throttle body. Now the PCV is old and definitely needs to be replaced and the stutter feels like A) enough oil got into the combustion chamber to foul the spark or B) limited fuel or no fuel was provided to one of the cylinders at idle.
... but the moment the engine comes off idle things smooth out, right? If so, that's the part that would lead me away from thinking there was a fueling issue.
Since the TPS is easy to reach and easy to test it's certainly worth a few minutes. My suspicion is the TPS is likely fine as far as function but needs calibration per the FSM.
How about checking the wiring harness in that tight little spot between the EGR and intake. The insulation gets worn, causing some "interesting" issues with idle. Re-insulate those wires, and put some heat wrap around the harness. Worked for one of my trucks with an slightly stumbling idle.
Check for any vacuum leaks too-especially hairline cracks in the intake tube.
Will definitely cause stuttering idle that goes away under load.
Will definitely cause stuttering idle that goes away under load.
Good point. I had a weird idle issue because the underside of the intake tube was cracked. Idled like trash but them ran good. Happened because I "paid" for an oil change and the didn't loosen the pipe going into the throttle body and just lifted it to check the air filter. Couldn't see the crack unless it was slightly flexed.
Sometimes when the tube seals leak the plugs/wires get soaked with oil and can short to ground. Just another thing to check...
Just finished up swapping the head last night on the little Jetta I picked up a couple of weeks ago.
Had a Broken timing belt and 8 bent valves.
As I was wrapping up It got me thinking, what is the procedure for after a rebuilt head is installed. I know about a entire engine, but what about when it's just the top end.
I Let it sit and idle for about an hour, monitoring it. Still haven't taken it on the open road yet but it's Running like a sowing machine.
Had a Broken timing belt and 8 bent valves.
As I was wrapping up It got me thinking, what is the procedure for after a rebuilt head is installed. I know about a entire engine, but what about when it's just the top end.
I Let it sit and idle for about an hour, monitoring it. Still haven't taken it on the open road yet but it's Running like a sowing machine.
40LandCruising
Anderson
We are thinking about pulling the head on our 1f in the 73' 40 because it is nasty rusty on the inside and has a sheared off bolt we gotta get machined out. Is pulling the head on a 1f relatively straight forward or is it awful? Just looking for some opinions
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8 bent valves!?! No bent conrods?
AFAIK, no break in procedure for a new head. Valve seats are checked/lapped by the machine shop. As long as the valve lash is set properly by the shop that's all you have to do.
Con rods were fine, just barley kissed the piston. Received the head back last Monday, a few evenings later, and was running errands Thursday.
I'm still trying to find some slop in Franks steering so except for the Va trip, hes been parked and I've been driving the Jetta. I hate my self for loving driving it. Acceleration, good fuel milage, and tight handling. The Jetta definitely shines where Frank doesn't.
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