TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (7 Viewers)

[SFROMAN]

Suggestions / recommendations

I really want to add ARBs to the lx450. Prefer to do one at a time since I don’t feel the need to pay for both at once. So front or rear first?

The problem with that is I won’t be able to regear while I’m at it. I will research gears in relation to tire size so I won’t bore you guys with what gears to go with. I run 285s now and I might bump up to a size bigger. But I don’t plan on any more suspension lift.

I guess another route is for me to slowly buy the gears, rebuild kit, arb lockers front and back. Once I have everything I need just do it all at once.

 

[angerhater]

Del, Save up the parts and have a hamom , that is the nature of this club. scheduling is the beast... i'd gladly help if I can.

 

[lt1fire]

Rear...... or front and throw a lockrite in the rear till the funds for the 2nd arb pop up

 

[NCFJ]

I'd put a locker in the rear and skip the front until you prove to yourself that you really need it. I'd also consider a Harrop electric locker, no need for on board air.

 

[pkniland]

I will second the Harrop's, Marshal put a front and rear in my 94 and I have been very happy. Its nice not to have to worry about the compressor, airlines, and seals. I did go with 4.88's when I did the lockers and I am glad I did. Ive only had them for about six months and I have yet to "need" the front locker, Ive used it but never really needed it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If he's going electronic, why not go with factory e-lockers?

I like Al's plan. ARB in the front, and lockrite in the rear (at the same time). When funds for a rear ARB pops up, put that in. Much easier to get into the rear diff than the front diff. Keep the gears you have for now and regear both diffs later on if you decide you want to .

 

[jdayment]

If he's going electronic, why not go with factory e-lockers?

I like Al's plan. ARB in the front, and lockrite in the rear (at the same time). When funds for a rear ARB pops up, put that in. Much easier to get into the rear diff than the front diff. Keep the gears you have for now and regear both diffs later on if you decide you want to .

OEM can become expensive when something breaks like the actuator I think it runs between 600-800 dollars used. Parts support will also be another issue with OEM Toyota's probably not going to keep supporting them for long on the 80 series if they still do. I would go with harrop or ARB it's all about need and want. I think on board air would be nice but at the same time I have heard too many stories of failed air lines or plumbing failures. I haven't really read of too many Harrop failures that weren't just something being unplugged and plugged back in. (This could be because they have only been mainstream a couple years now.) I agree that if funds are not available now for both that a front locking diff and a lockrite in the rear is a good idea. When the time comes that my factory LSD fails I will just do a complete axle swap with OEM locked axles or purchase harrop and put them into 93-97 axles and swap.

 

[NC LX]

Hmm..., @SFROMAN Im in the same boat. (same car too) 285's, maybe a bigger tire in future, no more lift, wanting a locker. I wonder if we could get a discount ordering double of everything and have a double HAMOMM. Same mods on two identical cars.

Heres Kelly Kapowski for reference...

 

[wardharris]

OEM can become expensive when something breaks like the actuator I think it runs between 600-800 dollars used. Parts support will also be another issue with OEM Toyota's probably not going to keep supporting them for long on the 80 series if they still do. I would go with harrop or ARB it's all about need and want. I think on board air would be nice but at the same time I have heard too many stories of failed air lines or plumbing failures. I haven't really read of too many Harrop failures that weren't just something being unplugged and plugged back in. (This could be because they have only been mainstream a couple years now.) I agree that if funds are not available now for both that a front locking diff and a lockrite in the rear is a good idea. When the time comes that my factory LSD fails I will just do a complete axle swap with OEM locked axles or purchase harrop and put them into 93-97 axles and swap.

VENOR COMMENT

I will jump in with a vendor comment if I may. The ARBs and Harrops are comparable but different. Both are fine, just depends on wants/needs/budget and personal preference. OBA is really a separate issue based upon what (again) the owner wants/needs/can afford or justify to the wife..... We have sold over 300 Harrops in USA over last several years with zero failures or service issues.

Many of our customers have OBA sized for their needs - small tires, large tires, friends' large tires and also pneumatic tools. Engine driven compressors are popular for anything other than small tires. Powertank onboard and portable CO2 systems are also quite popular. Again, question of wants/needs/budget.....

Finally, one option for expo builds looking for an axle upgrade is a full float Diamond axle housing fitting the diff and locker of your choice - even an upgrade to 10.5" Tundra. Lots of the GX guys are moving from 8" rear to 9.5" rear.

My point is that all this stuff is fine but planning and a realistic vision of want/need/budget can go a long way toward delivering maximal results and a given level of effort and expense.

CLOSING SUGGESTION

Talk to a vendor that sells both ARB and Harrop to get a balanced view of things and then put a spreadsheet together with features, benefits and costs tied to what you seek to accomplish. Bunch of folks in Carolinas can help - Trollholes, HFS, ECGS, etc.

Good luck and have fun!

Ward, Georg, Jeff and the gang at Cruiser Brothers.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

OEM e-locker converted to cable actuation would be the answer if you want mechanical reliability without OBA.

 

[JohnVee]

Has anybody mentioned ignoring the front for now? That would let you add the locker of your choice in the position most commonly needed and give you time to actually use it and determine if the front is even necessary. If you skip the front locker in the future, you've saved enough money to offset having to open the rear diff again to regear.

 

[wardharris]

OEM e-locker converted to cable actuation would be the answer if you want mechanical reliability without OBA.

This is a great solution to avoid maintenance/repair on external actuator. Pretty much bullet proof...

 

[S4Cruiser]

@SFROMAN

2 FJ80 Land Crusier Projects

 

[SFROMAN]

Yeah I have already started collecting what I need. If I am goin to go with arbs. Then I am just going to regear. The long term goal is to add an LS motor to the Lx450. So regearing makes sense to me and cry once.

@SFROMAN

2 FJ80 Land Crusier Projects

Appreciate the link but this looks like way more work than I want to deal with. Honestly the guy has nothing I want or need except the axles and harness. Maybe would be interested if he at least had the original rims to go with the axles.

 

[SFROMAN]

VENOR COMMENT

I will jump in with a vendor comment if I may. The ARBs and Harrops are comparable but different. Both are fine, just depends on wants/needs/budget and personal preference. OBA is really a separate issue based upon what (again) the owner wants/needs/can afford or justify to the wife..... We have sold over 300 Harrops in USA over last several years with zero failures or service issues.

Many of our customers have OBA sized for their needs - small tires, large tires, friends' large tires and also pneumatic tools. Engine driven compressors are popular for anything other than small tires. Powertank onboard and portable CO2 systems are also quite popular. Again, question of wants/needs/budget.....

Finally, one option for expo builds looking for an axle upgrade is a full float Diamond axle housing fitting the diff and locker of your choice - even an upgrade to 10.5" Tundra. Lots of the GX guys are moving from 8" rear to 9.5" rear.

My point is that all this stuff is fine but planning and a realistic vision of want/need/budget can go a long way toward delivering maximal results and a given level of effort and expense.

CLOSING SUGGESTION

Talk to a vendor that sells both ARB and Harrop to get a balanced view of things and then put a spreadsheet together with features, benefits and costs tied to what you seek to accomplish. Bunch of folks in Carolinas can help - Trollholes, HFS, ECGS, etc.

Good luck and have fun!

Ward, Georg, Jeff and the gang at Cruiser Brothers.

Thanks for this. I know too well how “while I’m at it” can get a project carried away. That’s What happened with my 82 first gen. I know what I want out of the LX450 and plan to stick with my build plan.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

FINALLY finished my core support. Damn did that take a long time.

Feels like I'm in the home stretch but there's still so much more to do.

 

[weejub]

Breast Cancer Awareness Support!

 

[NC LX]

Moonshine getting a fancy new snorkel?

 

[dbenke]

Love the pink, Johnny

 

[pkniland]

Any tips/tricks to replace ing a master cylinder on a 94?