TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)

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The jeep sticker is creating the fault. Replaced it and it should work in both directions.
 
Nice work James!!! Super glad someone in our club grabbed it.

Jump the motor to see if it will power out. If it will, then your solenoids or wiring are the issue.
 
Based on the warn site, it says it will pull up to 480 amps Jesus... so, yeah you're right.... oopsie.
 
Based on the warn site, it says it will pull up to 480 amps Jesus... so, yeah you're right.... oopsie.

hee, I only ask because when I was trying to 'figure out' the wiring pretty much everyone told me that it wouldn't work.....
 
Once again, Rant or Wrench? (I did not do this)

IS THIS BRAKE LINE OK?:bang:

 
Any leaks or cracks Joe? I would probably opt to replace it crushed that bad or its just a matter of time.


Yah, i recall that episode. It was acting like a check valve i believe and allowing fluid past the crush but then not releasing the pressure. It does look like tow truck or trailer strap damage. Cant recall the year change but i bet @Trollhole might.
 
I have "fixed" smashed brake lines like that with vice grips. Find a section of straight brake line and set the vice grip to lightly touch the brake line. Then, position the vice grip over the smashed line and clamp the widened section back down to size. By pre-setting the vice grip, you are less likely to oversmash it. This will get you back on the road until you source a replacement line.
 
This smashed line is on the wheel that dumped fluid. @roadstr6 I will try your method -- many thanks for that suggestion! Guess I need to get a line made locally, although I may try to make my own since I have the tools.
 
Wow I love these sealed bearings (rear bearing on wife's van was going bad). Total time from wheel off to done was 20 minutes!

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Does Little B get to beat the snot out of it with his double barreled hammers?
 
Driveshaft wall thickness.
Maybe someone might have some experience with this. As some of you know I am having driveshafts made for my 82 first gen. I was trying to research what is the thickness of the tube used in regular driveshafts? And would it be possible to use thicker material like .120 DOM to make them stronger? Just don't know if that would cause issues while daily driving the truck.

I plan on calling the shop in a bit, but they mostly build driveshafts for buses not 4 wheel drive trucks. So I figure I would Ask here first

Any advise is appreciated
Thanks
 
Driveshaft wall thickness.
Maybe someone might have some experience with this. As some of you know I am having driveshafts made for my 82 first gen. I was trying to research what is the thickness of the tube used in regular driveshafts? And would it be possible to use thicker material like .120 DOM to make them stronger? Just don't know if that would cause issues while daily driving the truck.

I plan on calling the shop in a bit, but they mostly build driveshafts for buses not 4 wheel drive trucks. So I figure I would Ask here first

Any advise is appreciated
Thanks

If the cost is the same as regular wall thickness then go for it, otherwise, I wouldn't bother. Reason being .... as far as torque is concerned you should have no worries of twisting a stock shaft in half. The rear shaft on my 40 is a custom Woody shaft but is no thicker than stock and gets plenty of torque applied to it.

That leaves lateral hits from rocks and such, at which point even .120 is fairly easy to bend/dent, so you're off to buy another custom shaft.
 
If the cost is the same as regular wall thickness then go for it, otherwise, I wouldn't bother. Reason being .... as far as torque is concerned you should have no worries of twisting a stock shaft in half. The rear shaft on my 40 is a custom Woody shaft but is no thicker than stock and gets plenty of torque applied to it.

That leaves lateral hits from rocks and such, at which point even .120 is fairly easy to bend/dent, so you're off to buy another custom shaft.


Makes sense and I had thought of that. Thanks for the response
 

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