TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)

[dbenke]

The best you will probably ever get is around 29. 30 is a perfect vacuum.
I have a nice vacuum pump and can get 29 most of the time. The trick is leaving it on longer...gets the moisture out of it. Kind of like sucking the last of a drink through a straw.

I usually leave mine on for at least an hour. Then close the gauges , turn the pump off and let it sit to check for leaks. If it won't hold vacuum, it has a leak.

 

[Rice]

The best you will probably ever get is around 29. 30 is a perfect vacuum.
I have a nice vacuum pump and can get 29 most of the time. The trick is leaving it on longer...gets the moisture out of it. Kind of like sucking the last of a drink through a straw.

I usually leave mine on for at least an hour. Then close the gauges , turn the pump off and let it sit to check for leaks. If it won't hold vacuum, it has a leak.

29.92 inches Hg is a perfect vacuum and a quality pump will pull 99.99% of that (100 microns). At my altitude I should expect to be able to achieve 29.4 inches.

 

[weejub]

Look out, altitude just became a factor . . .

 

[dbenke]

In a perfect world!

 

[NC LX]

I had the system open for around 24 hours so I left the vacuum on for around 3 hours.

I know torque wrenches can get out of calibration easily, I wonder if the gauges were out and we were actually pulling closer to 29.

 

[SFROMAN]

Finally picked up and installed my drive shafts on the first gen. I get out of work early tomorrow so I should get a chance to take it for a long test drive

 

[Roxx]

Well.... 100 microns..... You guys are something. Remember cars have seal fittings. Under vacuum they will leak. The lower the vacuum the more they leak. I am not saing you cannot get it. It will go up. Industry standards will be 400 microns that will have enough moisture for the dryer to do its job. You want to achieve a good vacuum? Do a triple evacuation. Nitrogen , vacuum, nitrogen, vacuum, nitrogen and vacuum. That will boil all the moister off and allow you a better evacuation. Also, the oil in the pump will need to be change. Oil will saturate with moister. One more thing. Biggest is not always better. It for a small system like a car. You have a 2.5 cfm pump, you will freeze the moister. " @Rice's department" use a small pump is the best. It will take longer but it will do it right. Last and not least. You physics stop giving hard time to normal people that want to f.ck up our air conditioners. We are lucky to use 5% of our brain i know you are using 10%.

Keep !!!

 

[roadstr6]

@Roxx You still got that R12 can punch you had borrowed from your buddy? The Turd needs to be topped off.

 

[Roxx]

I can find one if needed.

@Roxx You still got that R12 can punch you had borrowed from your buddy? The Turd needs to be topped off.

 

[Greenbean]

Well I decided to test my new Griot's Garage DA I got for Fathers Day, even though I am not a dad yet, lol...

Washed, clayed, and polished the Tacoma as a test before tackling the old paint on the 100 next week, if the weather bodes well.

Which leads me to this Tool Question....???

What's a good budget minded cordless impact I could use for lug nuts and suspension components.

I jacked up and removed the Tacos wheels as well to clean the inside which I only do maybe once every year or so. But it got me thinking with three cars in the family now It sure would be nice to have a cordless impact around.

I do have a cordless drill I have used on my Tacoma mostly just for taking screws out. I usually out them back in by hand of on the lowest setting, then check them all by hand.


Loaded a pic of the Tacoma to test how my Photo Stream works on the MacBook Air, sorry gang...First Apple computer coming from years of Windows.

 

[izzyandsue]

I used this one for years at tracks, worked great. I still have it, but at home I stick to pneumatics, more powah.

18 Volt 1/2 in. Cordless Variable Speed Impact Wrench

 

[S4Cruiser]

Well I decided to test my new Griot's Garage DA I got for Fathers Day, even though I am not a dad yet, lol...

Washed, clayed, and polished the Tacoma as a test before tackling the old paint on the 100 next week, if the weather bodes well.

Which leads me to this Tool Question....???

What's a good budget minded cordless impact I could use for lug nuts and suspension components.

I jacked up and removed the Tacos wheels as well to clean the inside which I only do maybe once every year or so. But it got me thinking with three cars in the family now It sure would be nice to have a cordless impact around.

I do have a cordless drill I have used on my Tacoma mostly just for taking screws out. I usually out them back in by hand of on the lowest setting, then check them all by hand.

I love my Griot's Garage DA...it is the only DA I've used though! It, lake county pads, meguiar's compound, polish and sealer can do wonders for a paint correction.

For the impact, a lot depends on what brand your already vested into. If you've already got dewalt batteries then pick up one of their 3/8" hog ring brushless impacts, or milwaukee if you prefer red. My Dewalt impact driver with a 3/8" socket adapter does a decent job with bolts, etc. but likely not the same as a dedicated impact.

 

[Greenbean]

That's the thing though,

I only have two cordless Craftsman yard tools, a small weed eater and blower.

I don't think those batteries work in any cordless impact but I'll check.

 

[weejub]

I am thinking about going back to Dewalt - it is available a lot of places to include both Lowe's and Home Depot. Supposedly they have moved back to made in America in the year or so.

I have this currently which is powerful enough for almost everything I have thrown at it yet:

RIDGID 18v 1/2" Impact Wrench | RIDGID Professional Tools

I guess this is the Dewalt I would move to:

Shop DEWALT 20-Volt 1/2-in Drive Cordless Impact Wrench at Lowes.com

 

[Greenbean]

I appreciate the info on the impacts gang, birthday is coming in a few months and I think I know what I'm leaning towards.

Just gotta narrow down which 1/2" impact I want/need.

 

[SFROMAN]

So frustrating.
Have everything in the 1st gen buttoned up and I can't get the dang thing to turn over. I started it about two weeks ago and let it run for a while.
Going to advance to replace the fuel filter. It's a long shot but hoping it was just clogged up and a new one will let me start it.

I know it is the carb. I just don't really want to take it off and rebuild it since I have no idea what can of worms I will run into if I do that. I do have a rebuild kit as a last resort but I was really looking forward to finally drive it around the block over the long weeekend.

 

[Greenbean]

So it turns over but doesn't fire?

I hate those scenarios,

 

[SFROMAN]

So it turns over but doesn't fire?

I hate those scenarios,

Yeah. I can get it to start briefly by spraying the carb with carb cleaner. Going to give it a shot again today.

 

[Rice]

Yeah. I can get it to start briefly by spraying the carb with carb cleaner. Going to give it a shot again today.

This tells a lot. I'm guessing then the accelerator pump on the carb is also not delivering anything, i.e. can pump the accelerator once or twice and still won't fire. If so then start at the float valve to see if it is stuck closed and work your way back to the tank. To test float valve crack open fuel line at the carb and turn it over a few times to see if anything is making it to the carb. If there is fuel there start simple by giving the carb some light taps on the bowl.

 

[SFROMAN]

This tells a lot. I'm guessing then the accelerator pump on the carb is also not delivering anything, i.e. can pump the accelerator once or twice and still won't fire. If so then start at the float valve to see if it is stuck closed and work your way back to the tank. To test float valve crack open fuel line at the carb at turn it over a few times to see if anything is making it to the carb. If there is fuel there start simple by giving the carb some light taps on the bowl.

Thanks for the help. Let me see if I can figure this out.