TurboClunker (a.k.a. cheap-ass slaps a turbo on his LX)

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Barely enough room to get into the garage as it is. If anything, I plan to lower the rear suspension an inch or two.
 
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Downpipe and turbine housing sprayed with VHT Paint. There were a few pinholes in the downpipe from shoddy welding that I tried to weld up before painting. I'm still not positive I 100% corrected the leak (that flexible pipe is really tough to weld) so I might wrap the joint where the WG dump rejoins the main exhaust in tiger patch just to be safe, then the whole thing is going under heat wrap and getting painted again because why not?

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Repaired MAF wires with solder and heat shrink this time

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Wiring harness wrapped and tacked back up on the firewall a little further from the "danger zone" This will get another layer of wire loom over the top so it doesn't look so terrible.

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dude,

close up the garage and spend time with your wife. Come on now, you're no good to us if you're dead or divorce :deadhorse:
 
She wants the truck running (with no exhaust leaks) by Sunday so we can do some exploring, so this is officially sanctioned garage time. We had to have a bit of a discussion to work out the terms. Thank you for your concern!
 
I may do that. I think I will use that stuff for the charge pipe that crosses over the hot zone as well.
 
Great idea, I think I'll do that as well. I wonder if it would work to wrap around the exhaust pipe from the turbo out to contain the heat?
 
FWIW, you are doing a whole bunch of us a big favor by tackling this project and "clearing the way" so to speak. So thanks, and thank your wife too!
 
Got a quick question for you @scottryana. I'm getting rid of my piggyback and am looking at the elite 750. Would you pay the extra $800 for the 2500 for the knock control feature? I have no knock control with the emanage ultimate now but keep going back and forth on this. The 750 is exactly what I need except for the lack of knock input.

It's nice to see the cruiser but the pics from when you first got it made be sad!!!! When it left NC back in 2008 it was spotless and rust free!!!!! Why are you ditching the current emanage???
 
I want more control than the emanage can give me. I'm going to retune it with the emanage for now but I'll get the haltech at the end of next month.
 
I modified the stock nuts with some success. It was enough to clear the runner on cylinders 2 and 5, but #1 still needed to be ground down on the manifold in order for the nut to fit onto the end of the stud.

Big vice grip and 6" bench grinder was the way I went about it. Took about 5 minutes per nut.
View attachment 1262860

Stock vs. molested
View attachment 1262862

Manifold clearanced at runner #1
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a little late.


Silly trick but to modified concentric parts just hold them/bolt them into a shaft (the bolt you are going to use) chuck them to the drill and go for it
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I have found a "flapper wheel" on a 4 1/2 grinder works best

Just mount a old cheap drill on a vice or somewhere secure and control the shape with the Grinder

Works extremely well, very controlable and it takes two seconds

Ps: Swiss OCD trying to rehabilitate with a ton of "cheapotech"
 
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Great idea, I think I'll do that as well. I wonder if it would work to wrap around the exhaust pipe from the turbo out to contain the heat?

I don't know what that stuff is made of, but I sort of imagine that the downpipe will probably be hot enough to burn it up (the velcro part anyway). But maybe it could be secured with steel zip ties instead. I'm just doing the traditional exhaust wrap. You can get it at siliconeintakes.com or allpurposepipes.com (same company, two names and slightly different inventory at either site) in a huge roll for cheap.
 
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dude,

close up the garage and spend time with your wife. Come on now, you're no good to us if you're dead or divorce :deadhorse:

He definitely won't do us any good if he is dead but divorced........sorry, that's bad too. :hillbilly:
 
Qball,

If divorced, I elect YOU to keep him warm during cold Colorado nights. :lol:
 
I don't know what that stuff is made of, but I sort of imagine that the downpipe will probably be hot enough to burn it up (the velcro part anyway). But maybe it could be secured with steel zip ties instead. I'm just doing the traditional exhaust wrap. You can get it at siliconeintakes.com or allpurposepipes.com (same company, two names and slightly different inventory at either site) in a huge roll for cheap.
I've used that stuff before on other projects. IMO, it delays the heat for a few minutes, but end result I cannot tell any difference in total heat output. JMHO
 
Qball,

If divorced, I elect YOU to keep him warm during cold Colorado nights. :lol:

I call big spoon!

FastCarGuy said:
I've used that stuff before on other projects. IMO, it delays the heat for a few minutes, but end result I cannot tell any difference in total heat output. JMHO

That's good feedback. Maybe I'll use the sleeve over the wrap eventually?
 
That's good feedback. Maybe I'll use the sleeve over the wrap eventually?[/QUOTE]

I'm going to contact the mfg. and ask. Either way, I wrapped the return AC line in the exhaust wrap. I think I'll take it off and use the heat barrier with the velcro instead...
 
Yeah no that is not something you could use on exhaust, it is made to go around wires/hoses that are near the exhaust. You would want to use a more traditional heat wrap. But I prefer the newer "Lava rock" based over the older fiberglass based.

Great idea, I think I'll do that as well. I wonder if it would work to wrap around the exhaust pipe from the turbo out to contain the heat?
 

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