Builds Turbo 1FZFE FZJ80 Build

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Already did that and it cost me about $19k. lol. I think that is also about what Slee charges for the swap. I could do it for less on an 80 then on my 55 since I had to buy a whole drivetrain, supercharger, make a new gas tank, new pumps, new drive shafts, new wiring, computers, etc. Truth be told I don't think the 2UZ-FE as bulletproof a motor as the 1FZ-FE is.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/yXlTYxUh5Eg

alia176 said:
6) cough V8 cough !
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Great thread. There is some very good information being exchanged here by everyone.


For anyone that's talking about this PSI or that PSI, keep in mind that PSI is not a measure of how much power you're going to make, when you'll max our your injectors, or how much the turbo is flowing. PSI is simply a measure of the pressure in the intake tract. A small turbo like a GT2860 at 20psi will only make around 220-250whp or so on a Land Cruiser, while a larger turbo like a GT3582 at 20psi could make around 350whp on a Land Cruiser. Both turbos at the same pressure. The turbo of choice, your intercooler setup, your intercooler piping, the size of your intake valves, etc... (basically, how much air you are flowing), will determine how much power you are going to make and how much power you're going to make determines how much fueling you need and when you'll max out your fuel system.

Don't just blindly assume that since one guy maxed out his fuel injectors at Xpsi that you will not be able to boost more than that. All of these things have to be taken into account before knowing how far your setup can take you.

To match a turbo to the factory fuel system you need to take into account a couple of things:
1) are you going to run an intercooler and if so how good will it cool the intake charge?
2) what octane fuel will you be running?
3) are you going to want to go for more power later on or will you be sticking with the stock fuel system?
4) Pick a turbo that will max out the stock fuel system at around 12-15psi, and run the car daily at around 9-12psi to leave a buffer. It's fairly straight forward.

The turbo kit is finalized for anyone wanting to run it on a factory ECU/injectors for a simple setup. For the next few months the turbo kit will be sold only with installation at our shop here in Austin, TX. Mail order kits will be available for purchase around the beginning of December. If you are interested in either of these options please email me baktasht@emspowered.com. For the out of state guys, we arrange shipping to/from our shop for customers all the time so that you can still take advantage of our services even if you're not local.

If you're looking for more power than what the factory ECU/injectors can support, we should have the fully tunable setup ready for sale around January. If you're interested in going this route, contact me as well to get things scheduled baktasht@emspowered.com

For the emissions questions. You will pass the "Sniffer" and computerized portion of emissions tests in most cases, but if you have a visual inspection in the county that you live in they may fail you on the visual portion of the inspection.

We will be posting more information as things progress on the fully tunable setups. Please let me know if you have any questions.
 
VERY GOOD NEWS!! Now I really can't wait to get back!

And yes I did try to explain that it isn't the PSI that makes the power it is the overall amount of air, measured in (m^3/min, lbs/min, etc). The pressure is how hard a turbo has to work to put out that volume. I put the compressor maps up and people can see the flows on the bottom.

When I did the maps I used average pressure drop across an Intercooler, as well as BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption), Volume efficiency, and displacement of the 1FZFE. Of course they aren't perfect but I think they are a good starting point.

I looked but didn't see any compressor maps for the Precision Turbo's. I wanted to see where the 6268 like Brett has falls out, but I know his end goal is way up there. But on low boost a 61mm compressor like the T61 Wheeling suggested or the 4088R, seems to fit well and is only a step down from the 6268. But for me, the 3076 looks like a winner.

Looking forward to seeing the dyno of Brett's truck at the safe limit on the stock computer and injectors! And more info on the kits you assembled and what a shop that deals with turbo's daily has weighed and decided. Good times to be an 80 owner that wants more power.




baktasht said:
Great thread. There is some very good information being exchanged here by everyone.

For anyone that's talking about this PSI or that PSI, keep in mind that PSI is not a measure of how much power you're going to make, when you'll max our your injectors, or how much the turbo is flowing. PSI is simply a measure of the pressure in the intake tract. A small turbo like a GT2860 at 20psi will only make around 220-250whp or so on a Land Cruiser, while a larger turbo like a GT3582 at 20psi could make around 350whp on a Land Cruiser. Both turbos at the same pressure. The turbo of choice, your intercooler setup, your intercooler piping, the size of your intake valves, etc... (basically, how much air you are flowing), will determine how much power you are going to make and how much power you're going to make determines how much fueling you need and when you'll max out your fuel system.

Don't just blindly assume that since one guy maxed out his fuel injectors at Xpsi that you will not be able to boost more than that. All of these things have to be taken into account before knowing how far your setup can take you.

To match a turbo to the factory fuel system you need to take into account a couple of things:
1) are you going to run an intercooler and if so how good will it cool the intake charge?
2) what octane fuel will you be running?
3) are you going to want to go for more power later on or will you be sticking with the stock fuel system?
4) Pick a turbo that will max out the stock fuel system at around 12-15psi, and run the car daily at around 9-12psi to leave a buffer. It's fairly straight forward.

The turbo kit is finalized for anyone wanting to run it on a factory ECU/injectors for a simple setup. For the next few months the turbo kit will be sold only with installation at our shop here in Austin, TX. Mail order kits will be available for purchase around the beginning of December. If you are interested in either of these options please email me baktasht@emspowered.com. For the out of state guys, we arrange shipping to/from our shop for customers all the time so that you can still take advantage of our services even if you're not local.

If you're looking for more power than what the factory ECU/injectors can support, we should have the fully tunable setup ready for sale around January. If you're interested in going this route, contact me as well to get things scheduled baktasht@emspowered.com

For the emissions questions. You will pass the "Sniffer" and computerized portion of emissions tests in most cases, but if you have a visual inspection in the county that you live in they may fail you on the visual portion of the inspection.

We will be posting more information as things progress on the fully tunable setups. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
This has been interesting reading.

Im really considering finding a used/bad 1FZ and rebuilding it in my spare time. Once it's complete swap it into my truck and then when the DIY turbo kits are ready Ill have a fresh motor ready for a turbo

My one reason for wanting to flip the 80 for a 100 is lack of power. But I know a 100 wont wheel and handle the places I take the 80 and that is almost a deal breaker for a 100.

Thinking it's time to freshen my 80 instead of replacing it.
 
Baktasht, are you planning on offering the 3" exhaust you're using as something to be bought separately?

If so, is it still over the frame like the ones you are currently selling?

Definitely an interesting build. :cheers:
 
baktasht said:
Great thread. There is some very good information being exchanged here by everyone.


For anyone that's talking about this PSI or that PSI, keep in mind that PSI is not a measure of how much power you're going to make, when you'll max our your injectors, or how much the turbo is flowing. PSI is simply a measure of the pressure in the intake tract. A small turbo like a GT2860 at 20psi will only make around 220-250whp or so on a Land Cruiser, while a larger turbo like a GT3582 at 20psi could make around 350whp on a Land Cruiser. Both turbos at the same pressure. The turbo of choice, your intercooler setup, your intercooler piping, the size of your intake valves, etc... (basically, how much air you are flowing), will determine how much power you are going to make and how much power you're going to make determines how much fueling you need and when you'll max out your fuel system.

Don't just blindly assume that since one guy maxed out his fuel injectors at Xpsi that you will not be able to boost more than that. All of these things have to be taken into account before knowing how far your setup can take you.

To match a turbo to the factory fuel system you need to take into account a couple of things:
1) are you going to run an intercooler and if so how good will it cool the intake charge?
2) what octane fuel will you be running?
3) are you going to want to go for more power later on or will you be sticking with the stock fuel system?
4) Pick a turbo that will max out the stock fuel system at around 12-15psi, and run the car daily at around 9-12psi to leave a buffer. It's fairly straight forward.

The turbo kit is finalized for anyone wanting to run it on a factory ECU/injectors for a simple setup. For the next few months the turbo kit will be sold only with installation at our shop here in Austin, TX. Mail order kits will be available for purchase around the beginning of December. If you are interested in either of these options please email me baktasht@emspowered.com. For the out of state guys, we arrange shipping to/from our shop for customers all the time so that you can still take advantage of our services even if you're not local.

If you're looking for more power than what the factory ECU/injectors can support, we should have the fully tunable setup ready for sale around January. If you're interested in going this route, contact me as well to get things scheduled baktasht@emspowered.com

For the emissions questions. You will pass the "Sniffer" and computerized portion of emissions tests in most cases, but if you have a visual inspection in the county that you live in they may fail you on the visual portion of the inspection.

We will be posting more information as things progress on the fully tunable setups. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...

Any insight as to what your tuning solution will be? If fuel and timing tuning is possible, then I would be interested in going turbo.
 
shfd739 said:
This has been interesting reading.

Im really considering finding a used/bad 1FZ and rebuilding it in my spare time. Once it's complete swap it into my truck and then when the DIY turbo kits are ready Ill have a fresh motor ready for a turbo

My one reason for wanting to flip the 80 for a 100 is lack of power. But I know a 100 wont wheel and handle the places I take the 80 and that is almost a deal breaker for a 100.

Thinking it's time to freshen my 80 instead of replacing it.
Click to expand...
A turbo'd 1FZ definitely has a LOT of potential for big power.

clownmidget said:
Baktasht, are you planning on offering the 3" exhaust you're using as something to be bought separately?

If so, is it still over the frame like the ones you are currently selling?

Definitely an interesting build. :cheers:
Click to expand...
The 3" exhaust will be one of the options for the turbo kit. Yes, it will still go over the frame. If there is enough interest we can offer it as a standalone item as well.

bsmart82 said:
Any insight as to what your tuning solution will be? If fuel and timing tuning is possible, then I would be interested in going turbo.
Click to expand...
We are still testing a few different ways to do it. They're all "capable" of tuning the 1FZFE. What we are trying to determine is which one of these tuning options will be work better for us for mail order plug-n-play options where we can tune the setups and set them up with plug and play harnesses so that all the customer has to do is plug it in and drive. More updates on tuning options as testing progresses.
 
baktasht said:
For the emissions questions. You will pass the "Sniffer" and computerized portion of emissions tests in most cases, but if you have a visual inspection in the county that you live in they may fail you on the visual portion of the inspection.
Click to expand...

Why would this be any worse than a TRD supercharger? There are supercharger users in Kali.
 
scottryana said:
And I am not sure but I think the reason mine wasn't hitting 5,000rpms was my kickdown cable. I will try and adjust it when I get back in town.
Click to expand...

It's not a kick down cable, it's a line pressure cable.
 
snowglobe said:
Why would this be any worse than a TRD supercharger? There are supercharger users in Kali.
Click to expand...

Having been down the road of using California Air Resources Board (CARB) pre-approved aftermarket stuff and passing the visual smog inspection, I can venture a guess that the difference in this situation with a turbo set-up in CA will be the lack of CARB approval for the mod. I fully expect the TRD supercharger already has its CARB approval.

Now, if baktasht could (and would care to put in the effort to) get CARB approval, that is another story.
 
Drifter, just a suggestion but if you do end up putting together a kit, I think more people would get a warm fuzzy feeling about it if you used a more common ECM. It seems like Wolf is somewhat obscure and about the same price as the big names.
 
This is starting to look like more trouble than it's worth for this Cali cruiser enthusiast. Maybe a staged twin turbo diesel in my 73 FJ40 would be money better spent.
 
Block is now cleaned, decked and honed. Pistons were blasted and are being coated before balancing/assembly. Friday is probably optimistic for delivery, but it wouldn't hurt my feelings. End of next week is probably more realistic, but if I were to hold my breath I'd probably turn blue and die.
 
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