TRD supercharger questions (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

With stock pulley, no intercooler,mine develops boost around 1700 rpm. I can assure you the gain is more than 25-30 hp. Off idle torque is the greatest improvement over a stock non-pressurized powertrain.

How is the S/C developing boost at 1700rpms!? I do not understand what you mean, 1700rpms is where you hit peak/max boost?

A S/C develops boost from idle, hence no lag.

I had the TRD S/C plus a few other mods on my 04 Taco, I am pretty sure with all the mods I was 60-75hp over stock. S/C, URD small pulley, URD 7th injector, bigger fuel pump, Doug Thorley headers, Jardine free flow exhaust, cold air intake all certainly worked the treat on the 5VZ-FE. 250hp at sea level certainly seems about right for that truck and the mods. Never dyno'ed it though but it was a hell of a lot faster than a stock 5VZ-FE. Easily pulled 75mph up 10% grades with power to spare at 7-8,000ft. At sea level easily could light up the rears from a dead stop on dry pavement.

Heat sink is an issue on the 5VZ-FE, in nearly 70k miles of owning the S/C'ed Taco heat sink caused me to cook the TPS sensor at about 35k miles. I replaced the TB and put on an LC Engineering TB spacer, 30k miles later and zero issues. Had I kept the truck, my next mod was going to be an intercooler.

Cheers
 
Everyone needs to understand their FI terminology a little better, developing boost and having positive manifold pressure are two different things. For example if at 1750rpms your truck is pulling 14in/hg of vacuum and then you put forced induction on it and the supercharger or turbo charger provides enough air so that you are only pulling 4in/hg of vacuum you are creating boost but you are not at positive manifold pressure. At idle or slightly above the TRD supercharger does not give you positive manifold pressure.

...via IH8MUD app
 
Everyone needs to understand their FI terminology a little better, developing boost and having positive manifold pressure are two different things. For example if at 1750rpms your truck is pulling 14in/hg of vacuum and then you put forced induction on it and the supercharger or turbo charger provides enough air so that you are only pulling 4in/hg of vacuum you are creating boost but you are not at positive manifold pressure. At idle or slightly above the TRD supercharger does not give you positive manifold pressure. ...via IH8MUD app

At what rpm point does it develop positive manifold pressure?
 
I've had my SC about a year now.

Seat of the pants, it produces plenty of extra power. It's VERY nice on the road. Very rarely will I need it or want it off road, but getting to the trails and overland travel it's exactly what i wanted.

With that said, i rebuilt my motor and used ARP head fasteners and a Cometic MLS head gasket knowing that i was planning on boosting. Might want to think about the age of your motor and your head gasket before you pull the trigger on $3,000 of power addition.

Lastly, i have no real data to provide to this thread since i've just enjoyed mine and drove it. But, i do have an ultra gauge and i keep an eye on the motor temps. The most mine has climbed to (water temp that is) is climbing a pass in the rockies at 60mph and the water temp climbed up to 205. That kind of stuff always keeps me nervous.

If/when :) i swap out a smaller pulley, i will only do it with the addition of an intercooler. IMHO why try to spend the $ on extra power if you are not really realizing it's entire benefit. Kind of like what cdan says, why take a shower and put your dirty clothes back on. Bottom line, if you are going to do it, do it right. Don't try to cut any corners on this or I feel you will pay big in the long run.
 
Looking at the compressor map and engine need I am guessing around 2100-2500rpms. That's only a guess because I don't have one so hopefully someone with realistic load on the street can tell you.

At what rpm point does it develop positive manifold pressure?



...via IH8MUD app
 
I've had my SC about a year now. Seat of the pants, it produces plenty of extra power. It's VERY nice on the road. Very rarely will I need it or want it off road, but getting to the trails and overland travel it's exactly what i wanted. With that said, i rebuilt my motor and used ARP head fasteners and a Cometic MLS head gasket knowing that i was planning on boosting. Might want to think about the age of your motor and your head gasket before you pull the trigger on $3,000 of power addition. Lastly, i have no real data to provide to this thread since i've just enjoyed mine and drove it. But, i do have an ultra gauge and i keep an eye on the motor temps. The most mine has climbed to (water temp that is) is climbing a pass in the rockies at 60mph and the water temp climbed up to 205. That kind of stuff always keeps me nervous. If/when :) i swap out a smaller pulley, i will only do it with the addition of an intercooler. IMHO why try to spend the $ on extra power if you are not really realizing it's entire benefit. Kind of like what cdan says, why take a shower and put your dirty clothes back on. Bottom line, if you are going to do it, do it right. Don't try to cut any corners on this or I feel you will pay big in the long run.

100% my situation and thoughts.
 
At what rpm point does it develop positive manifold pressure?
To answer ya in absolute terms, the point where the forced induction device (turbocharger or supercharger) starts to make boost and when it starts to make positive manifold pressure depends on cam size, compression ratio, design of the intake and exhaust manifolds, and the turbo/supercharger itself.

That's also why you can't compare boost levels amongst different vehicles, unless the setup is the same.

For our application, you can compare setups with stock motors and the same supercharger with one another, provided they're both not intercooled, or they have the exact same intercooler setup and piping (cuz piping size will affect your boost level too).

Likewise, in identical setups with the same idle, the amount of vacuum (negative) pressure at idle should be the same. Differences in vacuum pressure at the same idle are useful in assessing engine health (low compression, leaky valves, intake or exhaust restrictions, vacuum leaks from lines or gaskets, etc)
 
If/when :) i swap out a smaller pulley, i will only do it with the addition of an intercooler. IMHO why try to spend the $ on extra power if you are not really realizing it's entire benefit.
Do you feel you may still need to upgrade to an intercooler setup with smaller pulley?

And if so, to utilize its entire benefit, wouldn't you need to address the fuel restriction you'd face? Maybe with a solo independently controlled 7th injector?
 
Looking at the compressor map and engine need I am guessing around 2100-2500rpms. That's only a guess because I don't have one so hopefully someone with realistic load on the street can tell you.





...via IH8MUD app

Mine builds positive manifold pressue fairly quickly, around 1,300 rpm. ~6 lbs at around 1,700 or so. It has slowed down some from new. The engine has ~187,000 miles on it and tthe blower has right at 100,000 miles on it.
 
Not the boost, only intake air temp and a bit of fuel enrichment (what doesn't evaporate burns).
 
Do you feel you may still need to upgrade to an intercooler setup with smaller pulley? And if so, to utilize its entire benefit, wouldn't you need to address the fuel restriction you'd face? Maybe with a solo independently controlled 7th injector?

It's my personal feeling that I would tackle heat first and fuel later.

I don't think you have to have an inter cooler, but I personally wouldn't do one without the other. If you're going to do it, do it right.
 
Stock pulley size? That is great if it hits full boost by 1700rpms like I said I would have guessed a little later.

Mine builds positive manifold pressue fairly quickly, around 1,300 rpm. ~6 lbs at around 1,700 or so. It has slowed down some from new. The engine has ~187,000 miles on it and tthe blower has right at 100,000 miles on it.
 
Stock pulley size? That is great if it hits full boost by 1700rpms like I said I would have guessed a little later.

It has a 3.0 inch presently. 3.2 is stock.
 
It's been so long since I put that thing on I can't remember what difference it made. All I remember is I liked it........:)
 
I've had my SC about a year now. Seat of the pants, it produces plenty of extra power. It's VERY nice on the road. Very rarely will I need it or want it off road, but getting to the trails and overland travel it's exactly what i wanted. With that said, i rebuilt my motor and used ARP head fasteners and a Cometic MLS head gasket knowing that i was planning on boosting. Might want to think about the age of your motor and your head gasket before you pull the trigger on $3,000 of power addition. Lastly, i have no real data to provide to this thread since i've just enjoyed mine and drove it. But, i do have an ultra gauge and i keep an eye on the motor temps. The most mine has climbed to (water temp that is) is climbing a pass in the rockies at 60mph and the water temp climbed up to 205. That kind of stuff always keeps me nervous. If/when :) i swap out a smaller pulley, i will only do it with the addition of an intercooler. IMHO why try to spend the $ on extra power if you are not really realizing it's entire benefit. Kind of like what cdan says, why take a shower and put your dirty clothes back on. Bottom line, if you are going to do it, do it right. Don't try to cut any corners on this or I feel you will pay big in the long run.

My SC changed the very nature of my LC and I love it. My guess is positive manifold above 1000rpm's seat of pants.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom