Will do
Builds Trash truck .... a diary and build thread
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Dekeman
SILVER Star
Easy to replace the VCM if it leaks...City Racer.
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- #143
Yep, that’s the one!
reddog90
SILVER Star
So your VCV was leaking and changing the hose routing confirmed this?
Hey @CruiserTrash, if you want to create that emissions course and need help with the writeup or formatting, drop me a line. Tech writing is what I do and it would be nice to give back to the Mud community. Plus I've been meaning to dive into the emissions stuff too. We've been plugging away at Kaylee's hard starts issue and hunting for a very elusive vacuum leak. Found several already but I suspect there are more. Your comments about the dizzy leaks have me thinking I need to check that next. Thinking to get some of those nifty gauges too. Mo' info', mo' betta........
Kathryn and Kaylee
Kathryn and Kaylee
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- #146
Yes. In this case the vacuum is being used to operate a diaphragm only. The diaphragm controls flow between two other hoses. When there’s no vac, the flow between the other two hoses is shut, and when there is vac, then that flow opens.
When the diaphragm deteriorates the vacuum is now leaking past into the other two hoses which are connected to atmosphere. The way to test for this is to check manifold vac with the system connected and then with the vac line plugged. If the diaphragm is intact both readings should be equal. If the reading goes up with the vac line plugged that means there was a leak with the system connected - busted diaphragm.!
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- #147
That’s a generous offer! I was thinking more of an informal video series - gotta keep the target audience in mind, a bunch of lughead truck wrenches haha. The emissions FSM covers this stuff in technical language already, but … maybe your insight would be helpful in crafting my colloquial approach.
Translating techno-speak into stuff everyone can read, is the bulk of what I do. Your description above of the flow around that diaphragm is a perfect example. Just consider my offer a get-out-of-jail-free card. If ya need it, use it. In the meantime, keep on posting all that great stuff!!
One of the other things I've been considering is to convert that copied-page-images version of the FSM into a true searchable PDF so that folks can search the text. That'll be a long-term page-by-page project, but I already want to be able to search through that thing a lot more easily. And next-gen automotive documentation is getting really advanced, with embedded video clips, context-related troubleshooting flowcharts and expandable hyperlinks for more info on terms or procedures, along with a navigation panel alongside. Now THAT would be cool to have. Not sure I have time to render that but again, it's been on my mind.
One of the other things I've been considering is to convert that copied-page-images version of the FSM into a true searchable PDF so that folks can search the text. That'll be a long-term page-by-page project, but I already want to be able to search through that thing a lot more easily. And next-gen automotive documentation is getting really advanced, with embedded video clips, context-related troubleshooting flowcharts and expandable hyperlinks for more info on terms or procedures, along with a navigation panel alongside. Now THAT would be cool to have. Not sure I have time to render that but again, it's been on my mind.
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- #149
Better scans of the manuals would be a start. The same copies have been floating around and they aren’t optimized to utilize the full 8.5x11 page. When you print them out they get blurry. The Cruiser Cult folks have been scanning all sorts of manuals but I haven’t checked to see if those are any better.
reddog90
SILVER Star
Can't you also just see if the VCV holds vacuum with a mighty vac? Or am I misunderstanding the flow somehow?
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- #151
Yep. You could certainly bench test it easy enough. The way it’s set up in situ and the fact that I got a vac gauge in the cab means it’s essentially set up like a test bed already though.
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- #152
Found a new theme song for my 60.
“Driver of the Fastest Truck on Wheels”
“Driver of the Fastest Truck on Wheels”
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- #153
I've noticed over the past week or so that when I come out to the truck in the morning there's a ~8" diameter wet spot under the transfer case, and active drips on the underside of the skid plate. Now, I already have what's likely both a rear main seal and oil pan leak ... but those leaks drip off the flywheel cover. I also have the t-case/transmission leak where my transmission will overfill and my t-case will run low. This leak was new though. I've been driving around nervously, constantly feeling the t-case shifter for signs of high temps (ie, low oil) and listening for the sound of gears eating themselves. I finally got time yesterday to look into it.
First I cleaned up the transfer case - it was filthy. I took it for a spin around the block and found a drip coming from the rear driveshaft output. Is that called the rear output seal? The rear driveshaft was an absolute bear to compress, even after removing the grease zerk. Getting it back on took a ratchet strap through the CV joint. Anyway, I found the pinion nut (is that the right name?) was tight, but the staking was blown out. My bigger torque wrench was at home, but I had my medium one at the shop and verified that nut had at least 80lb-ft of torque on it (the highest setting; spec is 94). I topped off the t-case with oil and drained the transmission back to the proper level. I can drive it without as much anxiety now.
I feel like I'm in a pickle. Matilda, the new blue 60, is close to being ready for her maiden voyage and I don't want to "waste" time on the tomato truck. On the other hand I felt like this needed to be addressed ASAP. In the future - when Matilda is the daily driver - I'll have the space to park the tomato and get her back up to snuff for winter driving/trail beating ... but for now I'm still driving it.
Oh, one more thing - the boot on the front of the t-case, where the shifter linkage comes into the case, is torn and wet. I'm not sure if there's a seal back there, or if it's wet from the engine oil leaks saturating the flywheel cover that's nearby. Anybody know what's inside that boot?
First I cleaned up the transfer case - it was filthy. I took it for a spin around the block and found a drip coming from the rear driveshaft output. Is that called the rear output seal? The rear driveshaft was an absolute bear to compress, even after removing the grease zerk. Getting it back on took a ratchet strap through the CV joint. Anyway, I found the pinion nut (is that the right name?) was tight, but the staking was blown out. My bigger torque wrench was at home, but I had my medium one at the shop and verified that nut had at least 80lb-ft of torque on it (the highest setting; spec is 94). I topped off the t-case with oil and drained the transmission back to the proper level. I can drive it without as much anxiety now.
I feel like I'm in a pickle. Matilda, the new blue 60, is close to being ready for her maiden voyage and I don't want to "waste" time on the tomato truck. On the other hand I felt like this needed to be addressed ASAP. In the future - when Matilda is the daily driver - I'll have the space to park the tomato and get her back up to snuff for winter driving/trail beating ... but for now I'm still driving it.
Oh, one more thing - the boot on the front of the t-case, where the shifter linkage comes into the case, is torn and wet. I'm not sure if there's a seal back there, or if it's wet from the engine oil leaks saturating the flywheel cover that's nearby. Anybody know what's inside that boot?
- Thread starter
- #154
Hard to see in the photo above but the staking on the nut was pretty well mutilated. Somebody either unscrewed it without prying up the staking and then reinstalled it all busted up, or it forceably loosened, knocking the staking off.
- Thread starter
- #155
Stuck in Dacono with the Denver blues again…
Ok, I wasn’t really stuck. It’s Sunday and I didn’t have anywhere to be so I could take my time and properly assess a concerning revelation I found:
A pinhole leak in the top of the radiator. This happened on a “quick” round trip to Fort Collins and back to pick up a rebuilt H42 that somebody wasn’t going to use. Maybe an H55 will for the budget some day - today is not that day though.
Anyway, I’ve noticed the coolant level dropping very slowly over the past few months. I keep the reservoir filled up and occasionally run the heat, and things have been fine. I think my thermostat (previous owner) is either a lower temp version or stuck partially open because I run at 180*F almost at all times - that’s on the upper rad hose gauge I have, the stock gauge runs at about 2/3. I would think with lower temps the system wouldn’t be over pressurizing … right? Maybe it did one time, the pinhole formed, and it’s been weeping ever since. Maybe I never noticed it.
At first I thought I’d take a small torch and solder the hole, but with Matilda on the horizon I’m thinking I’ll be even lazier and just throw epoxy on it.
This make me think about a couple things. First, I’m worried that one leak in a 39 year old radiator means more are probably not far behind. Second, this gets pretty close to cementing my decision to take Matilda to Solid Axle Summit. That’s if she does well as a commuter around town in the couple weeks before we leave. I feel like there’s too much to do to the tomato truck to get it ready. We’ll see I guess.
Ok, I wasn’t really stuck. It’s Sunday and I didn’t have anywhere to be so I could take my time and properly assess a concerning revelation I found:
A pinhole leak in the top of the radiator. This happened on a “quick” round trip to Fort Collins and back to pick up a rebuilt H42 that somebody wasn’t going to use. Maybe an H55 will for the budget some day - today is not that day though.
Anyway, I’ve noticed the coolant level dropping very slowly over the past few months. I keep the reservoir filled up and occasionally run the heat, and things have been fine. I think my thermostat (previous owner) is either a lower temp version or stuck partially open because I run at 180*F almost at all times - that’s on the upper rad hose gauge I have, the stock gauge runs at about 2/3. I would think with lower temps the system wouldn’t be over pressurizing … right? Maybe it did one time, the pinhole formed, and it’s been weeping ever since. Maybe I never noticed it.
At first I thought I’d take a small torch and solder the hole, but with Matilda on the horizon I’m thinking I’ll be even lazier and just throw epoxy on it.
This make me think about a couple things. First, I’m worried that one leak in a 39 year old radiator means more are probably not far behind. Second, this gets pretty close to cementing my decision to take Matilda to Solid Axle Summit. That’s if she does well as a commuter around town in the couple weeks before we leave. I feel like there’s too much to do to the tomato truck to get it ready. We’ll see I guess.
That crack on top I’ll bet is where someone has leaned on it in the past while working on the engine.
But your concerns are valid. It’s likely corroded out on the inside and this crack is just letting you know that.
If you’re going to band-aid it instead of replace it, buy another new radiator cap and disable the check valve in the old cap so coolant can flow freely to the overflow tank. When this modified cap is installed, the cooling system will be unpressurized but the engine will run fine and won’t leak coolant if you develop another leak on a trip somewhere else in the future.
Store the modified cap in the center console for an emergency and put the new cap on the radiator.
Old thermostats can and sometimes do get stuck partially open. Mine did. It got jammed open. Engine ran too cool when cruising.
But your concerns are valid. It’s likely corroded out on the inside and this crack is just letting you know that.
If you’re going to band-aid it instead of replace it, buy another new radiator cap and disable the check valve in the old cap so coolant can flow freely to the overflow tank. When this modified cap is installed, the cooling system will be unpressurized but the engine will run fine and won’t leak coolant if you develop another leak on a trip somewhere else in the future.
Store the modified cap in the center console for an emergency and put the new cap on the radiator.
Old thermostats can and sometimes do get stuck partially open. Mine did. It got jammed open. Engine ran too cool when cruising.
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- #157
@OSS When I put the epoxy on tonight I noticed that the radiator was in fact dented exactly where the leak was - a dent maybe 3/16” in diameter, very small. So maybe it’s mechanical failure as opposed to chemical (oxidation) failure.
Great tip about the spare cap. I just got a new OEM cap about a month ago, but I’ll dig the old one out.
I think my thermostat works but is a lower temp version or a no-name Autozone special. Since I have two temp gauges I can see what’s going on: when I cold start the stock gauge creeps up slowly while the aftermarket gauge - in the upper rad hose - stays at zero. When the stock gauge gets to about half the aftermarket gauge quickly shoots up from zero to 175. I can watch the thermostat open in other words. After that the truck runs at 180 almost always. On a hot day, pulling uphill on a highway in the mountains, I might hit 190. It’s never gone over that.
Great tip about the spare cap. I just got a new OEM cap about a month ago, but I’ll dig the old one out.
I think my thermostat works but is a lower temp version or a no-name Autozone special. Since I have two temp gauges I can see what’s going on: when I cold start the stock gauge creeps up slowly while the aftermarket gauge - in the upper rad hose - stays at zero. When the stock gauge gets to about half the aftermarket gauge quickly shoots up from zero to 175. I can watch the thermostat open in other words. After that the truck runs at 180 almost always. On a hot day, pulling uphill on a highway in the mountains, I might hit 190. It’s never gone over that.
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- #158
Well folks, time for a little update.
In the rush to complete Matilda before Solid Axle Summit - and make her a reliable rig on a 1000 mile journey - I scavenged quite a few things from the tomato. It was a week to go before our departure day and I was flying around the shop at warp speed every day. Here's what's missing from Tomato:
-rebuilt smog pump (BZ Rebuilders, ~10 months ago)
-rebuilt alternator (a year old?)
-Kyosan fuel pump (6 months old?)
-Radio/tape deck
-Aftermarket gauge cluster (water temp, vac, air:fuel)
-rear swing arm bumper
-roof rack
The rear left tire, which was slowly leaking, now is completely flat. I'm probably going to swipe the rear leaf springs since the ones on Matilda got smoked from carrying 1000lbs of gear to Ouray and back. She looks like a wreck.
...so it looks like the party ends here folks. She's 39 years old. The body has so much rust plus the bad respray. The frame is rotting out. She did the best she could and made it this far. I really think the best thing would be for her to donate parts to other 60s so they can continue living on. Exactly what that looks like I don't know but I've got a couple ideas. I'm forever grateful for just about 40,000 miles of solid daily driving, and for the education this truck gave me. Gone but not forgotten, I suppose.
More to come.
In the rush to complete Matilda before Solid Axle Summit - and make her a reliable rig on a 1000 mile journey - I scavenged quite a few things from the tomato. It was a week to go before our departure day and I was flying around the shop at warp speed every day. Here's what's missing from Tomato:
-rebuilt smog pump (BZ Rebuilders, ~10 months ago)
-rebuilt alternator (a year old?)
-Kyosan fuel pump (6 months old?)
-Radio/tape deck
-Aftermarket gauge cluster (water temp, vac, air:fuel)
-rear swing arm bumper
-roof rack
The rear left tire, which was slowly leaking, now is completely flat. I'm probably going to swipe the rear leaf springs since the ones on Matilda got smoked from carrying 1000lbs of gear to Ouray and back. She looks like a wreck.
...so it looks like the party ends here folks. She's 39 years old. The body has so much rust plus the bad respray. The frame is rotting out. She did the best she could and made it this far. I really think the best thing would be for her to donate parts to other 60s so they can continue living on. Exactly what that looks like I don't know but I've got a couple ideas. I'm forever grateful for just about 40,000 miles of solid daily driving, and for the education this truck gave me. Gone but not forgotten, I suppose.
More to come.
- Thread starter
- #160
Oh man, this makes me have big feelings.
-it’s funny
-this was an early iteration of the tomato and I still had little idea what I was doing, but it was a fun trip
-it makes me miss her already
