/this\
and I just got a tow out of BFE (not in a cruiser) - just for the record: it IS survivable
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To do or not to do headgasket as PM (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MoCoNative
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/this\
and I just got a tow out of BFE (not in a cruiser) - just for the record: it IS survivable
no.
you have enough trucks in the driveway to get away with having the 80 down if/when you need to do HG.
I drove mine with a failing gasket for 8 or 9 months, then had it rebuilt properly by one of the really good guys in Denver who does work out of his house garage when the engine finally started to rattle bad. First cylinder was completely failed and full of coolant. Engine runs super great now. I wouldn't do it that whole process differently if I could.
you have enough trucks in the driveway to get away with having the 80 down if/when you need to do HG.
I drove mine with a failing gasket for 8 or 9 months, then had it rebuilt properly by one of the really good guys in Denver who does work out of his house garage when the engine finally started to rattle bad. First cylinder was completely failed and full of coolant. Engine runs super great now. I wouldn't do it that whole process differently if I could.
No. It is NOT preventive maintenance to do the HG.
Installing a subaru hood scoop to keep cylinder 6 cool would be PM. Testing for exhaust gasses in your coolant would be PM.
If it goes it goes. There is experience on the forum that bars leaks hg fix can work for thousands of miles on a tractor motor that has a slight leak. I might be facing that myself.
Replacing the head gasket is a major undertaking that should only happen if it needs to happen and when it can happen with the least impact.
After some time without running, a couple weeks ago i had my cruiser idling for 10 minutes or so before i drove off somewhere. I mostly count on it as a snow vehicle - Utah snow plow crews being a jaded bunch who think you should be able to drive in less than a foot of snow if you have any balls to speak of. It left what looked like a water mark on the driveway under the tailpipe. it didn't evaporate until the next day or so. 175000 miles and change. my plan at the moment is to do the test for exhaust gasses in the coolant to be sure or unsure, flush the system, refill with new coolant, and potentially pour in a bottle of bars leaks head gasket fix - which in a tractor motor like ours won't hurt anything.
Installing a subaru hood scoop to keep cylinder 6 cool would be PM. Testing for exhaust gasses in your coolant would be PM.
If it goes it goes. There is experience on the forum that bars leaks hg fix can work for thousands of miles on a tractor motor that has a slight leak. I might be facing that myself.
Replacing the head gasket is a major undertaking that should only happen if it needs to happen and when it can happen with the least impact.
After some time without running, a couple weeks ago i had my cruiser idling for 10 minutes or so before i drove off somewhere. I mostly count on it as a snow vehicle - Utah snow plow crews being a jaded bunch who think you should be able to drive in less than a foot of snow if you have any balls to speak of. It left what looked like a water mark on the driveway under the tailpipe. it didn't evaporate until the next day or so. 175000 miles and change. my plan at the moment is to do the test for exhaust gasses in the coolant to be sure or unsure, flush the system, refill with new coolant, and potentially pour in a bottle of bars leaks head gasket fix - which in a tractor motor like ours won't hurt anything.
If you travel frequently out of your own state, wheel in remote areas, and plan on owning your 80 for another 100K I would do it without question.
I understand your dilemma. But based on your comments I think there's no strait answer.
If everything runs just fine, no signs of fatigue/leak and you aren't driving the rig to remote locations, there's no rational explanation to replace the HG as of now. I wouldn't do it....if ain't broken...
However, if you want peace of mind or you plan an extended trip, then, it would seem reasonable...as an insurance policy...not as matter of necessity.
Your call.
Cheers
If everything runs just fine, no signs of fatigue/leak and you aren't driving the rig to remote locations, there's no rational explanation to replace the HG as of now. I wouldn't do it....if ain't broken...
However, if you want peace of mind or you plan an extended trip, then, it would seem reasonable...as an insurance policy...not as matter of necessity.
Your call.
Cheers
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
I used to simply say "yes" - now I say "it depends".
-Do you pop the hood often enough to do it blindfolded?
-Do you check the radiator cap & coolant overflow bottle at least monthly?
-Do you NEED it? (calcification on seam, or other proof like "sweet" exhaust)
-Do you see milky oil on the oilcap in Summer? (Short winter trips don't burn off condensation in oil, false positive)
-Did you do a H/C test on the coolant & it popped blue/bad?
-Do you have a supercharger on it or in the house waiting?
-Do you & all your family WATCH THE GAUGES?
-DO YOU WHEEL ALONE IN B.F.E. ?
-Cost vs. Importance - more a mental discussion than a simple yes or no here.
-Does your 80 mean **that much** in real world to you to justify?
-Are you well off enough it simply is more an issue of lost time than the cost?
-Is your 80 a DD or for trails/ rec vehicle?
That is my litmus test to anybody - you can decide the best of all.
-Do you pop the hood often enough to do it blindfolded?
-Do you check the radiator cap & coolant overflow bottle at least monthly?
-Do you NEED it? (calcification on seam, or other proof like "sweet" exhaust)
-Do you see milky oil on the oilcap in Summer? (Short winter trips don't burn off condensation in oil, false positive)
-Did you do a H/C test on the coolant & it popped blue/bad?
-Do you have a supercharger on it or in the house waiting?
-Do you & all your family WATCH THE GAUGES?
-DO YOU WHEEL ALONE IN B.F.E. ?
-Cost vs. Importance - more a mental discussion than a simple yes or no here.
-Does your 80 mean **that much** in real world to you to justify?
-Are you well off enough it simply is more an issue of lost time than the cost?
-Is your 80 a DD or for trails/ rec vehicle?
That is my litmus test to anybody - you can decide the best of all.
No! The quiet majority of us are in the 200-300k+ range and are on original head gaskets.
Also, consider that it is not a simple job and that many people have problems with their engines after doing the HG. Keep reading the write ups and you'll see what I mean.
Also, consider that it is not a simple job and that many people have problems with their engines after doing the HG. Keep reading the write ups and you'll see what I mean.
If it were me, I wouldn't do the head gasket just to do it. Since you have a '97, stick a scan gauge on there so you can monitor coolant temps. I believe that the head gasket issue is slowly triggered by rising coolant temps stemming from a fan clutch that slowly starts to lose its effectiveness. If you're starting to see everyday temps in the 210+ range, get that cooling system figured out. Take a hard look at fan clutch and radiator for starters. Otherwise you may see a head gasket job in your near future.
Yes the material has been non asbestos since 1989 like I stated so before the production. I was stating the change in material caused the 90's to early 2000's failures. Reason being at this point they hadn't had enough time to see how the hg would act in the long run. It turns out the gaskets would eventually stop conforming to the expansion of the block and head which then caused failures over time. Asbestos was better at maintaining it's conformity throughout it's life. All alum head iron block vehicles in this generation had this issue
but newer 2003+ alum head cast block vehicles did not. They have changed the composition of the gaskets in some way to reduce the fatigue.
itbrokeagain
SILVER Star
I would stick a bottle of bar stop leak in for pm and be done with it. I recently pulled a 1fzfe and It looked to me like a hg would be a miserable job. I wouldn't want to if I didn't have to
No, I just did your list of PM and then some and didn't do the HG. I contemplated it as I don't need the vehicle daily and have a cross country trip planned next June but its just not PM! Throw some Bars Leak in the rear tool compartment, thats Preventative Measure I'm a tech by trade and work on forklifts with engines (some even toyota) that go 30,000 hours on original head gaskets. Now granted they are propane but they are beat to s*** 24/7, engine oil is rarely checked, they overheat often, and engines are under constant load (never just cruising down the highway) Then when they do go, they just leak a little and if I don't have time to get to it right away they get filled with water and BARS and wait till I have the time.
Nope
377,xxx on the original HG and I just made another routine trip from Orlando to NYC without a care in the world
Unless you're actually seeing symptoms of a failing HG (coolant loss, mixing, etc.), I honestly wouldn't touch it
377,xxx on the original HG and I just made another routine trip from Orlando to NYC without a care in the world
Unless you're actually seeing symptoms of a failing HG (coolant loss, mixing, etc.), I honestly wouldn't touch it
That's impressive Snake Eater...!!
I've owned my '96 for 11 years and 100k. I have not done the head gasket. I maintain the cooling system and, in particular, I keep a close eye on the fan clutch.
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks again guys, you have convinced me, I won't mess with it. I do not have signs of failure, just wrapping up baseline on this thing basically, and thought it may be worth doing.
So second question, is the valve cover even doable without removing the intake plenum, I'm getting a mixed message on that. Any tricks to checking the EGR vacuum switch, I suspect that is causing the EGR code.
So second question, is the valve cover even doable without removing the intake plenum, I'm getting a mixed message on that. Any tricks to checking the EGR vacuum switch, I suspect that is causing the EGR code.
Before you change the valve cover gasket, try simply tightening the bolts holding it down. Mine had a leak on the rear passenger area and believe it or not, the bolts had worked themselves loose over time, about 4 were loose. Give it a try, you might be surprised.
And yes, there is a way to test that part, thanks to one of our knowledgeable members here on this site:
No, you cannot pull it straight up far enough to get the VC off with the TB still fully mounted. I just did mine and hung the TB from the hood so I didn't have to unhook the cables. I highly recommend doing it if your spark plug tube seals are leaking. My #6 spark plug tube was filled with 3" deep of oil. it swelled up the aftermarket spark plug boots so it got stuck around the plug. I spent three hours trying to dig that out of there!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
We can all only quote our experience here. Mine was done pre-emptively at 140K. THe old one was still in perfect condition. Still, as a piece of mind thing it's been good, and since I use that truck to go remote places at a distance, the cost benefit was worth it to me.
If yours is a daily driver, I'd just keep using it. Fix it when it does eventually fail. You have both Robbie and Slee there in Colorado to do it when it needs it.
If yours is a daily driver, I'd just keep using it. Fix it when it does eventually fail. You have both Robbie and Slee there in Colorado to do it when it needs it.
- Thread starter
- #39
I figured the TB had to come off, but not any more of the intake correct.
Cruiserdrew, I know I have cruiser shops in my state, but I can do the work. Also Robbie and Slee are 200 miles and two passes over the Rocky Mtns away from me, probably wouldn't be able to get there if engine was failing.
Cruiserdrew, I know I have cruiser shops in my state, but I can do the work. Also Robbie and Slee are 200 miles and two passes over the Rocky Mtns away from me, probably wouldn't be able to get there if engine was failing.
What he said
