To Turbo or Not Turbo? (1 Viewer)

[obe12]

OK, here we go... 1FZ-FE to turbo or not? On the fence on my 80 to do the HDAutomotive kit 4600 bucks USA shipped, then Haltech ECU 2000 US and wiring myself or pay 500 US for Plug and play harness "BloomSlang" to be created for my 94 LC 80 series. Then extra sensors Wideband, E85 fuel sensor, Air Charge, Baro 1 bar for altitude compensation, and a haltech Gauge. adds another 1000 us bucks. Not to mention Down Pipe to exhaust needs to be created, and intake plumbing. I have a Tig welder with equipment and capable of doing that work. Huge expense I am facing. The Kit does have the extras Fuel pump, Adj Reguator, New Injectors, Head Stud kit, Boost controller and external waste gate valve.

NOW the question: do any one of you that did a Turbo have buyers remorse after the investment? Any regreats? IF you Turbo a Stock engine with new Head Gasket and Studs, what boost / HP did you target? Do not want to set off chain reaction Overheating, Transmission issues breaking internal parts etc. This stuff comes up after and where remorse '20/20 vision' is clearer.

Bring it.. I am all ears

 

[Speedytech7]

I haven't turbocharged my 1FZ yet, but I plan to for a couple reasons. 1, the Haltech removes all the funky OBDI nonsense like the VAFM and unobtanitum Titainia O2 sensors in favor of speed density metering and a wideband O2 (or two if you so chose). 2, because I have had a very positive experience turbocharging my 5VZ 1st Gen Tacoma with a Haltech Elite and Boomslang harness and haven't lost any economy. It puts a smile on my face every time I drive it now.

It is a bit of a learning curve though regarding the Haltech software and tuning in general if you're not familiar with the concepts. But thankfully I'm a born tinkerer and have friends with access to a dyno and their knowledge of tuning to help guide me.

 

[obe12]

It is a bit of a learning curve though regarding the Haltech software and tuning in general if you're not familiar with the concepts. But thankfully I'm a born tinkerer and have friends with access to a dyno and their knowledge of tuning to help guide me.

I used a Haltech Parallel system back in 2021 on my 22RTE toyota. I did all the wiring myself back then. Boomslang offers a great plug and play harness to simplify this process install. Haltech Tech Articles cover this in great detail, and see setup straight forward.

I do avionics installation on experimental aircraft dealing with real expensive hardware and can work through tech stuff on configuration.

Great you have access to a dyno! My supra buddy feels we can use his contacts and pay for the time after setup on a dyne and tune ourselves, IF I take the plunge.

I just bought this FZJ80 from an owner of last 7-8 years. I am having it shipped to me currently. At 245k miles it drives really well and no leaks underneath the engine and engine bay really clean, not recently washed cleaned either. owner report 1/2-2/3 qt of oil consumption between 5000 oil intervals. I have no reason to doubt him and OCD on the records over the previous owner and him owning it. The Interoir is immaculate and not redone showing how its ben cared for over the years.

The plan, i will quick leak down cylinder check and bore scope to look at the cylinders to see if trouble is lurking. Open the vales and look at the seats, and valves. Why, determine a long term plan: Pull head, clean valves check guides, lap valves and replace seals then adjust valves is head is flat if cylinder walls look ok and not scored. If guides are loose and valves seats / faces not flat.. now we get into Valve job and guides at a min plus valve adjustment. So get a starting place and decide what to do. New short block 4000 my cost., head work, then turbo cost really mount up fast.


May just swap 2UZ at that point sale running with trans / transfer case 1FZ and go 2UZ v8 swap. 1800-2000 for 100-150K engine with harnesses, maybe another 1500-2000 for trans / transfer case within, Lexus V8 will do a 2UZ Ecm and swap we go. keep it all yota.. Drive train 105, body of an 80 series. Dont think I willing to build a turbo 1FZ engine, with forged pistons, rods - Maybe.. can't count it out.

So back to Turbo or Not... Swap or Not. Got a great cavas to start painting on tho...Clean 94 80 Series.

 

[pgmatt]

If you want to keep it Toyota it would be a fantastic setup but I guess it comes down to health of the existing engine. Unfortunately most FZJ80's are getting way up there in mileage and facing a major overhaul or rebuild at this point. Many are going with a LS swap which is realistically starting around the same price as a properly done turbo setup with some deep engine maintenance. I will get around to turboing my FZJ80 one of these days as having built a lot of turbo kits in the past I understand how even a basic kit properly executed can drastically improve things and teh 1FZFE is a prime candidate for boost.
The pre OBD2 80's really suffer from old antiquated fuel injection and even the OBD2 trucks could really use a modern ECU and tune.
I had a Sequoia with the 5spd tranny and VVTI 2UZ and that would work well but I have no experience with the older 2UZ but it seems marginal gain for the work but if you can get one cheap i guess why not especially if you can find a low mileage swap.

 

[obe12]

Exactly, condition of the 1FZ engine. Block cylinders not scored, cross hatch still there.. they have heavy pistons … could re ring it, and new bearings in the truck , redo the head .. the way we go… but no scores I bet the bottom end is good to go.

freashikg the head , no overheats, straight, no sludge , worth putting a few buck into because it will keep going. Maybe 50-100k more miles.

my plan, this 80
Is a third vehicle for me, I wanted it , don’t need it.
It’s iconic and memorable. I may only drive it 30-50k in 10 years. So there it is. Not a daily driver. Not a primary truck, it’s hobby truck to go once a year to o Colorado from Texas. Drive it to work once a week like if thing.

It’s entirely possible, buy a used 2UZ and put that in my 100, put the 100’s hi mileage engine in the 80.
Runs fantastic, oil usage 1/2 qt 5000 miles now.
I drive the P@@@@ out of it too. Once a week it might hit the speed limiter , indicates 100, Gps 105
Routinely 80-85 to work at 3:45 am on the tollway.

I don’t abused or baby them, drive them… need to keep Clyinders pressures up from time to time. Get the oil temp up. Rid the engine of moister… better than sitting and driving short trips.

My 2 cents

 

[scottryana]

1FZ loves boost, if it is done properly and the 1FZ is in good working order. The problem is I am not sure all 1FZ's are in good working order at this point so you are spending a lot to get it ready to turbo. But a turbo 1FZ is miles above an NA 2UZ, I would even say that my turbo 1FZ is stronger then a TRD SC 2UZ..

 

[obe12]

1FZ loves boost, if it is done properly and the 1FZ is in good working order. The problem is I am not sure all 1FZ's are in good working order at this point so you are spending a lot to get it ready to turbo. But a turbo 1FZ is miles above an NA 2UZ, I would even say that my turbo 1FZ is stronger then a TRD SC 2UZ..

May I inquired as to what boost , intercooled of not, if Air to air , or water to air !
What turbo you chose and how long have you being running it?

Fresh engine, stock or modified?

Put money into something that will last, be reliable and worth something at the end is the game.

New short block Is 4k my cost. Then the rest builds on that. Or bore / sleeve standard or bore go with forged pistons and rods upgrade. Then some cams to go for a turbo motor build. Now we are spending some money.

Sc 2UZ Intercoolered I am building on my 99 100 currently. One other guy has done one pulls 7500 lbs up 6% grades in Colorado. I have such a trailer myself… 7200-7500 gross weight. The 2UZ Sc is to do just that, pull my trailer to Colorado … and back 1-2 times a year.

You have my interest for sure…

I am all ears !

Also how long have you been running this Turbo on your 1FZ ?

Thanks A lot … why I created this post. Learn from
Others good and or bad.

Thanks

Tex

 

[scottryana]

May I inquired as to what boost , intercooled of not, if Air to air , or water to air !
What turbo you chose and how long have you being running it?

Fresh engine, stock or modified?

Put money into something that will last, be reliable and worth something at the end is the game.

New short block Is 4k my cost. Then the rest builds on that. Or bore / sleeve standard or bore go with forged pistons and rods upgrade. Then some cams to go for a turbo motor build. Now we are spending some money.

Sc 2UZ Intercoolered I am building on my 99 100 currently. One other guy has done one pulls 7500 lbs up 6% grades in Colorado. I have such a trailer myself… 7200-7500 gross weight. The 2UZ Sc is to do just that, pull my trailer to Colorado … and back 1-2 times a year.

You have my interest for sure…

I am all ears !

Also how long have you been running this Turbo on your 1FZ ?

Thanks A lot … why I created this post. Learn from
Others good and or bad.

Thanks

Tex

I have been running a turbo 1FZ since 2012

Borg Warner 7670 EFR turbo
600cc injectors
Water to Air Intercooler
Haltech
15-19psi of boost.

Rebuilt head, refreshed lower end with just seals and rubber parts, OEM bearings, Rods and Pistons.

Close to 80k miles.

I have driven across the country a couple times, up Eisenhower pass both directions at 80mph, up Monarch, over Rabbit Ear, etc. I have never found a hwy road that will slow down the turbo 1FZ on 35's with stock gears.

 

[obe12]

I have been running a turbo 1FZ since 2012

Borg Warner 7670 EFR turbo
600cc injectors
Water to Air Intercooler
Haltech
15-19psi of boost.

Rebuilt head, refreshed lower end with just seals and rubber parts, OEM bearings, Rods and Pistons.

Close to 80k miles.

I have driven across the country a couple times, up Eisenhower pass both directions at 80mph, up Monarch, over Rabbit Ear, etc. I have never found a hwy road that will slow down the turbo 1FZ on 35's on stock gears.

I like ... a lot .. Water cooled ok, like the short plumbing to from the cooler. The Water tank what the part of a kit prior offered? 15-19 PSI.. sweet! not your average build for sure. is that an extra injector in the air leaving the turbo? Haven't seen that .. before. got me curious ? Mil spec AN fittings.. hum What about heat induction there at the air filter ? looks like that corner is seal on that angle? yep got my attention for sure. Fuel, at that boost are you having to pull timing back for spark knock? at 15-19 that should pull if the flow is good, good power numbers. Standard radiator is appears, so no overheating issues then.

OEM bearings, got that .. New stock poem pistons and rings? Bored? Rods OEM too? I hear they are a heavy rod and heavy piston stock on the 1FZ, Tuff bottom end.. Did you stud the engine? Head or rods? Change the cams? Head gasket OEM?

I see this and it excites me... I was planning maybe 10 PSI boost to start and tune for that. Maybe 5-8 lbs if needed.

How's the trans holding this increased torque? and Mods to it? or it is a standard?

Sorry lot of questions, and want a clear picture what to expect if I dive down this rabbit hole too.

Thanks

Tex

 

[scottryana]

I like ... a lot .. Water cooled ok, like the short plumbing to from the cooler. The Water tank what the part of a kit prior offered? 15-19 PSI.. sweet! not your average build for sure. is that an extra injector in the air leaving the turbo? Haven't seen that .. before. got me curious ? Mil spec AN fittings.. hum What about heat induction there at the air filter ? looks like that corner is seal on that angle? yep got my attention for sure. Fuel, at that boost are you having to pull timing back for spark knock? at 15-19 that should pull if the flow is good, good power numbers. Standard radiator is appears, so no overheating issues then.

OEM bearings, got that .. New stock poem pistons and rings? Bored? Rods OEM too? I hear they are a heavy rod and heavy piston stock on the 1FZ, Tuff bottom end.. Did you stud the engine? Head or rods? Change the cams? Head gasket OEM?

I see this and it excites me... I was planning maybe 10 PSI boost to start and tune for that. Maybe 5-8 lbs if needed.

How's the trans holding this increased torque? and Mods to it? or it is a standard?

Sorry lot of questions, and want a clear picture what to expect if I dive down this rabbit hole too.

Thanks

Tex

No with the Haltech an extra injector is not needed you can just add larger primary injectors. The stock are ~315cc, the ones I used are ~600cc. The water tank is completely custom, it cools the IC, holds windshield washer fluid as well as fluid for water/meth injection. Yeah the air filter was sealed off from the engine bay as well as possible while keeping it high and somewhat protected, I also run a mesh filter wrap that is not shown in those pictures. And have since wrapped the intake tubing with DEI heat wrap. I have complete control of the timing using the Haltech, I wrote my own timing tables. No knock at 19psi. Estimating about ~410hp and 600ft/lbs. Transmisison has been ok with the shift kit drilled out to the most aggressive setting.

 

[obe12]

Sweet.. I don't see a blow off valve, when you close the throttle, do you get any surges?
I have heard its easier on the turbo if you have one... I have not clue tho.. The K and N i found on my SC yogas it created false readings on the MAF sensor from the oil from the filter being drawn from it. I guess you are MAP not MAF? I wanted to keep my stock air filter if possible, but this works too. You have a real sweet setup... Once my new rig shows and I dig into the engine we see where it takes me.

The Wholesale Transmission guys sell a Nomad Valve body.. on I call them sage 1,2,3. I have the 2 in my 100 now. interesting enough, when I have built these trans as freashing them up, lip seals, clutches I always replace the valve after cleaning it with new gaskets and match them to the old ones. Now my replacement Valve body didn't have any gaskets between the upper and lower half to separator plate. i found that odd when I installed it. Everyone I have taken apart has the gaskets like yours.

Do you enlarged a hole in the separator plate ... Hum I am interested in this mod.



Tex

 

[obe12]

I believe this 80 series Landcruiser used a throttle cable. So I am interested in when you enlarged the hole, what it is achieving. Hum..

Good Night,

Tex

 

[scottryana]

Sweet.. I don't see a blow off valve, when you close the throttle, do you get any surges?
I have heard its easier on the turbo if you have one... I have not clue tho.. The K and N i found on my SC yogas it created false readings on the MAF sensor from the oil from the filter being drawn from it. I guess you are MAP not MAF? I wanted to keep my stock air filter if possible, but this works too. You have a real sweet setup... Once my new rig shows and I dig into the engine we see where it takes me.

The Wholesale Transmission guys sell a Nomad Valve body.. on I call them sage 1,2,3. I have the 2 in my 100 now. interesting enough, when I have built these trans as freashing them up, lip seals, clutches I always replace the valve after cleaning it with new gaskets and match them to the old ones. Now my replacement Valve body didn't have any gaskets between the upper and lower half to separator plate. i found that odd when I installed it. Everyone I have taken apart has the gaskets like yours.

Do you enlarged a hole in the separator plate ... Hum I am interested in this mod.



Tex

I have a recirculation valve on the turbo, that replaces the blow off valve and allows that air to stay in the intake tract so you have better throttle response. I am not running a MAF using the Haltech you can use MAP so there is a pressure sensor on the Haltech.

I don't care for the Wholesale Trans guys stuff. I feel like you get the exact same results as their valve body as you do, doing the work yourself with the transgo shift kit. You are actually drilling out the passages in the valve body to allow more fluid and more clamping pressure. You also replace some of the springs on the valves. Not difficult but messy and you need to pay attention to detail.

 

[jjdeneen918]

I’ve been running my turbo for years now after doing the HG. Other upgrades were the trans valve kit & Ron Davis radiator.

Running 6-8 PSI on stock OBDII ECU.

No issues with the turbo kit. It is the WitsEnd kit that is NLA. Don’t get me started on that nonsense….

 

[obe12]

I’ve been running my turbo for years now after doing the HG. Other upgrades were the trans valve kit & Ron Davis radiator.

Running 6-8 PSI on stock OBDII ECU.

No issues with the turbo kit. It is the WitsEnd kit that is NLA. Don’t get me started on that nonsense….

Kewl, did it transform the truck to accelerate up hill in OD, At 75-80 … ?

How many miles where in your engine when you added the turbo?

 

[jjdeneen918]

It had about 240,000 pre-turbo, now a little over 250,000. I don’t put many miles on the rig.

 

[obe12]

It had about 240,000 pre-turbo, now a little over 250,000. I don’t put many miles on the rig.

Kewl, good info… my 94 obd1 will need a Haltech for the Fuel Injection system for fuel control.

It’s around 245k now , just bought it. .. last owner had it 7-8 years and was OCD on records, how he kept the truck. He has all repairs documented and previous owner records too.

Hopefully, oil changes and air filter maintenance was kept up to not have scorn cylinders. Owner reported 1-2-2/3 qt synthetic added between intervals 5000 miles.

If the cylinders are good shape, I will put the money into the head. It will need a Head gasket eventually, bite the bullet and do it now. ARP stud the head and oem gasket.

If valves faces are worn, just install a complete set of valves and guides, and valve grind the seats,
Valve seals and shims.

Change all the coolant hoses as preventable to blowing a hose and have an overheat.

It sounding like the turbo is a good thing and can turbo a stock engine with success.

For my use, not really interested in a major engine rebuild with doing a turbo. That some big money into an 30 year old truck. It’s a clean 30 year old for sure. If I can nurse 30-50k more miles it will suit me just fine and have extra power.

Glad to know you turbo a 200 k mile plus engine with success.

An extra 100 crank HP would be nice for all my needs.

If the engine locked up, I would do a 2UZ swap, possible VVTI or non VVTI SC 2UZ like I am setting up in my 100 series now.

No Haltech required, and keep it yota too.

All great info… thanks

 

[Marvelicious]

I have a recirculation valve on the turbo, that replaces the blow off valve and allows that air to stay in the intake tract so you have better throttle response. I am not running a MAF using the Haltech you can use MAP so there is a pressure sensor on the Haltech.

I don't care for the Wholesale Trans guys stuff. I feel like you get the exact same results as their valve body as you do, doing the work yourself with the transgo shift kit. You are actually drilling out the passages in the valve body to allow more fluid and more clamping pressure. You also replace some of the springs on the valves. Not difficult but messy and you need to pay attention to detail.

I'm a believer in those Transgo kits. I haven't done it on the 80 yet, but my first gen Tundra has the same family of trans (A3??). I used the "reprogramming kit" (the more expensive of the two) with the truck options and it was absolutely transformative on that. It came out shifting like it should have from the factory in my opinion. The 80 trans isn't as lazy as the Tundra was, but it seems worthwhile. It is a messy job, but they're cheap and effective.

 

[scottryana]

I'm a believer in those Transgo kits. I haven't done it on the 80 yet, but my first gen Tundra has the same family of trans (A3??). I used the "reprogramming kit" (the more expensive of the two) with the truck options and it was absolutely transformative on that. It came out shifting like it should have from the factory in my opinion. The 80 trans isn't as lazy as the Tundra was, but it seems worthwhile. It is a messy job, but they're cheap and effective.

Yeah I used the same kit it sounds like and did the “Hot Rod” setting it is firm but not overly. Shifts well under heavy throttle and isn’t lazy at all. Before the shift kit it took 1/2 a second or more for the trans to shift under boost.

 

[Marvelicious]

Yeah I used the same kit it sounds like and did the “Hot Rod” setting it is firm but not overly. Shifts well under heavy throttle and isn’t lazy at all. Before the shift kit it took 1/2 a second or more for the trans to shift under boost.

Seems appropriate for the amount of boost you're running. I would think the truck settings would be good for anyone running NA or single digit boost. I tow occasionally with the Tundra and the feel of the stock shifts made me nervous, like I had to be burning up clutches. Now, 1-2 is firm, 2-3 is slightly firm and 3-4 is soft but quick. Before it felt like they tuned it for a Cadillac, not a truck.

I see aftermarket valve bodies for sale for exorbitant prices and I have sincere doubts they're doing anything more. Meanwhile, the Transgo kits are cheap enough that I think I had more money into Redline ATF than the kit.