Builds The Warthog v4.4 (9 Viewers)

[wngrog]

How many 55s let alone 2fs have been on a dyno? I have to think this is one of just a handful and the 2fs that have been were probably built by the same shop who built this one.

Really shows potential buyers how buttoned up this drive train is. You know what your getting with this project compared to a South American restoration that’s a roll of the dice. I remember trying to get under hood pictures of a nice cruiser and the owner acting like that was a hassle. You have shared everything that can be about this vehicle which inexperienced buyers might not get is rare.



I look forward to your next project and hope this one goes to a home where it’s used and shared with us here in the future. Heck maybe I’ll convince the Mrs to make a go at getting it.

Seeing that driving video reminded me of the Lsu coach a few years back. Real potential Buyers should already know there’s no carpet or surfaces to keep smell in these old treasures.

Brilliant.

The warthog and Coach O have a lot in common

 

[SNLC]

Never been a big fan of the 55’s.

Got to say though, this one is especially with the lift and 315’s.

GLWS Nolen.

Cheers

 

[cps432]

@MoCoNative chimed in way back in this thread telling me that the Delco charcoal canister is not set up to work stand-alone with constant vacuum from the base of the carb or Sniper as it will feed raw fumes back into either and cause dieseling and other issues.

On his guidance I picked up a check valve and put it in line from the charcoal and the Sniper then I put a T in the distributor vacuum line to only pull vacuum when the advance happens under throttle.

Interesting info.

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I’m currently in the middle of installing my sniper kit. I’ve got an acdelco canister to install and I’m looking for this valve, but it seems to be unavailable everywhere. Any idea if there are others that would work instead? Or is there another work around to complete this system so that it functions correctly?

Standard® - Vapor Canister Purge Valve

Chevy Camaro 1988, Vapor Canister Purge Valve by Standard®.

www.carid.com

I found this one from an 88 Camaro but I’m uncertain if it will work. I suppose it will. Ideas, suggestions?

 

[wngrog]

I’m currently in the middle of installing my sniper kit. I’ve got an acdelco canister to install and I’m looking for this valve, but it seems to be unavailable everywhere. Any idea if there are others that would work instead? Or is there another work around to complete this system so that it functions correctly?

Standard® - Vapor Canister Purge Valve

Chevy Camaro 1988, Vapor Canister Purge Valve by Standard®.

www.carid.com

I found this one from an 88 Camaro but I’m uncertain if it will work. I suppose it will. Ideas, suggestions?

You can use any one way vacuum valve and a T. Just used one from a smog system

 

[cps432]

You can use any one way vacuum valve and a T. Just used one from a smog system

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Is that the green one off the carb?

 

[wngrog]

Is that the green one off the carb?

As long as it’s a one way. Just suck into it and feel if it is working. The goal here is for there not to be constant vacuum. Only when the advance is triggered. That way you are pulling whatever fumes are in the charcoal canister out when you are on the throttle not idle

 

[cps432]

As long as it’s a one way. Just suck into it and feel if it is working. The goal here is for there not to be constant vacuum. Only when the advance is triggered. That way you are pulling whatever fumes are in the charcoal canister out when you are on the throttle not idle

I see, thanks! I’ll be firing my sniped 60 up in a week or so. Thanks for the tech!

 

[MoCoNative]

wnrog, that green deal is only a vacuum delay, the different colored ones have different delays. That one was designed to buffer the vacuum signal on the choke breaker so that it did not immediately fly open upon a cold start. In other words it smooths the vacuum pulse. Notice one is used on the distributor advancer line to also keep the vac advance from coming on for a second and jumping around.

cps432, the valve you have found looks correct. Hook the small line to the vacuum line from the vac advance port on the base of the sniper. Hook the two larger through lines to the purge line of the charcoal canister.

If you still have any smog stuff from your FJ60, Toyota used the same exact concept on the purge line for the charcoal canister. In fact their system is even better. That system runs the vacuum signal from one of the 3 vacuum ports on the right side of the base of the carb, through a temperature controlled switch on the lower thermostat housing as I recall, then back to a vacuum valve, (I think located right near the terminus of the carb fan duct.) This vacuum valve will be hooked to the purge line of the charcoal canister. It operates exactly like the GM variant I used. The Haynes manual in the emissions section has good info on this system and the ports for that valve. There is also an identical Toyota valve above the distributor that handles the venting operations of the distributor cap in the stock configuration.

The beauty of the Toyota purge system is that it not only allows the canister to only vent while you are on the throttle, but it also only allows it to vent once the engine is up to temp. Probably not a huge concern for a Sniper system, the O2 sensor will read the extra gas vapors when cold and just compensate, same as it will when warmed up, but it could still affect your cold idle settings somewhat?????

The other canister line on the factory FJ60 canister is to capture fumes from the float bowl. It uses an electric solenoid valve that when powered is closed so that the canister vacuum does not pull on the float chamber. When you turn the car off, valve opens due to lack of power and fumes can freely travel to the canister for capture. You can cap and abandon that system with the Sniper. The plug to it could be used as switched power lead if needed, it should be hot while running only.

 

[wngrog]

You clearly have a great grasp of the smog system. All I know how to do is pull it off and toss it.

This one used like this works fine. It is basically a one way valve. Correct me though I’m wrong.

 

[cps432]

wnrog, that green deal is only a vacuum delay, the different colored ones have different delays. That one was designed to buffer the vacuum signal on the choke breaker so that it did not immediately fly open upon a cold start. In other words it smooths the vacuum pulse. Notice one is used on the distributor advancer line to also keep the vac advance from coming on for a second and jumping around.

cps432, the valve you have found looks correct. Hook the small line to the vacuum line from the vac advance port on the base of the sniper. Hook the two larger through lines to the purge line of the charcoal canister.

If you still have any smog stuff from your FJ60, Toyota used the same exact concept on the purge line for the charcoal canister. In fact their system is even better. That system runs the vacuum signal from one of the 3 vacuum ports on the right side of the base of the carb, through a temperature controlled switch on the lower thermostat housing as I recall, then back to a vacuum valve, (I think located right near the terminus of the carb fan duct.) This vacuum valve will be hooked to the purge line of the charcoal canister. It operates exactly like the GM variant I used. The Haynes manual in the emissions section has good info on this system and the ports for that valve. There is also an identical Toyota valve above the distributor that handles the venting operations of the distributor cap in the stock configuration.

The beauty of the Toyota purge system is that it not only allows the canister to only vent while you are on the throttle, but it also only allows it to vent once the engine is up to temp. Probably not a huge concern for a Sniper system, the O2 sensor will read the extra gas vapors when cold and just compensate, same as it will when warmed up, but it could still affect your cold idle settings somewhat?????

The other canister line on the factory FJ60 canister is to capture fumes from the float bowl. It uses an electric solenoid valve that when powered is closed so that the canister vacuum does not pull on the float chamber. When you turn the car off, valve opens due to lack of power and fumes can freely travel to the canister for capture. You can cap and abandon that system with the Sniper. The plug to it could be used as switched power lead if needed, it should be hot while running only.

This is excellent tech! Thank you! I defiantly needed that explanation and advice. Very valuable! I am desmogging this truck so I was wondering what to do with the factory Toyota purge system and this answers my questions concisely!

 

[MoCoNative]

Honestly, leave the purge system just the way it is, and use the advance port with a 1/8" tee to trigger it.

wngrog, there is tech on those somewhere here on Mud, but they will pass vacuum both directions, you just can't do it easily with the blow test. I'm not quite sure how you are using it to trigger your purge valve.

 

[cps432]

Honestly, leave the purge system just the way it is, and use the advance port with a 1/8" tee to trigger it.

wngrog, there is tech on those somewhere here on Mud, but they will pass vacuum both directions, you just can't do it easily with the blow test. I'm not quite sure how you are using it to trigger your purge valve.

My OEM canister is not working properly so I’m going to install the acdelco model that everyone suggests. But you’re saying to keep the factory Toyota valve?

 

[MoCoNative]

Yes, the Toyota valve can be kept if it is functunal. I would keep the factory line routing with the heat switch too if it were me. The canister can be swapped with the Delco just fine.

I'm like 99% sure the Haynes manual shows the system in pretty good detail if you have it, either the early one that covers the FJ40 too, or the later one that includes the 60 and the 80 series in one book.

 

[wngrog]

The new owner contacted me today. He’s moving and the new property won’t have covered parking for the Warthog so he’s looking to sell. Anyone interested message me I’ll send you his information.

 

[PabloCruise]

I had a full week of work this week, finished a carport Project AND my daughters 100 series brakes went out. Hopefully I can finish the brakes tomorrow and get back on the Warthog. I’m taking next Wednesday off and @USMC22 is coming up and we are gonna Fire it

Hopefully I can plumb it up this weekend and have it ready

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Is the dog pooping right in front of the new car port?!?

 

[PabloCruise]

The new owner contacted me today. He’s moving and the new property won’t have covered parking for the Warthog so he’s looking to sell. Anyone interested message me I’ll send you his information.

Did the Warthog move on to a new home?

 

[wngrog]

Did the Warthog move on to a new home?

Sold it on BAT then it got sold to a guy in Colorado. What a turd. Makes me sad my name is attached to that thing to be honest.

 

[PabloCruise]

Sold it on BAT then it got sold to a guy in Colorado. What a turd. Makes me sad my name is attached to that thing to be honest.

The CO guy is a turd?
Is he neglecting the Warthog?
Do you know where in CO?

 

[wngrog]

The CO guy is a turd?
Is he neglecting the Warthog?
Do you know where in CO?

Breckenridge

No the truck is a turd wrapped around some expensive parts.

 

[PabloCruise]

Breckenridge

No the truck is a turd wrapped around some expensive parts.

Got it, thanks.

And thanks for documenting a sweet 55 project...