I'm actually a bit more shocked by the motor mount, perhaps not knowing the solution.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I would have thought that the split-case cross-member would have improved your odds.
If anything, that allows more flex, since there’s essentially a single rear pivot point vs. the two wide ones.
Probably helps for vibration/noise/comfort though!
Last edited:
Man, what a blow. On multiple levels, and to everyone involved. I’ve been laying low, partly out of shame, but more importantly, to clear some workload out of the way to get the Warthog back doing burnouts and breaking motor mounts. We should be able to have the block at the machine shop first thing Monday morning and get it turned around pretty quickly.
Unfortunately, this has been par for the course with 2F’s lately. Usually things get caught before assembly, but this one did slip by undetected.
In the past couple of weeks, I’ve had a head with no less than four cracks, a block in worse shape than the Warthog’s, and the scariest: a rod bolt that snapped when it was torqued to check the sizing...
That was a time bomb waiting to go off. Luckily it happened on the bench. In the process though, we discovered an ARP bolt that is almost a dead ringer for the 2F’s:
It requires a little bit of gunsmithing to avoid contact with the cam.
So... “while we’re in there”, we’ll upgrade to the Longfields for the extra piece of mind while Nolen’s bouncing off the rev limiter.
It’s only fitting that we ended up using ‘Ole Blue’s block for the Warthog. ‘Blue’s crank is actually going back into the Warthog’s original motor, which is receiving some love and getting ready for it’s next lifetime in a nice 40.
Unfortunately, this has been par for the course with 2F’s lately. Usually things get caught before assembly, but this one did slip by undetected.
In the past couple of weeks, I’ve had a head with no less than four cracks, a block in worse shape than the Warthog’s, and the scariest: a rod bolt that snapped when it was torqued to check the sizing...
That was a time bomb waiting to go off. Luckily it happened on the bench. In the process though, we discovered an ARP bolt that is almost a dead ringer for the 2F’s:
It requires a little bit of gunsmithing to avoid contact with the cam.
So... “while we’re in there”, we’ll upgrade to the Longfields for the extra piece of mind while Nolen’s bouncing off the rev limiter.
It’s only fitting that we ended up using ‘Ole Blue’s block for the Warthog. ‘Blue’s crank is actually going back into the Warthog’s original motor, which is receiving some love and getting ready for it’s next lifetime in a nice 40.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #326
Since I was down I decided to make the seat situation right. The suspension seats are so damn comfortable but almost impossible to get out of for a 50 year old.
The new ones are the “Moab” brand Corbeau. Adjustable back. Fun seat. Cloth where you sweat.
Also I got the console out and drilled it all out correctly. Added a rear cup holder and USB plug @ntsaint gave me
The new ones are the “Moab” brand Corbeau. Adjustable back. Fun seat. Cloth where you sweat.
Also I got the console out and drilled it all out correctly. Added a rear cup holder and USB plug @ntsaint gave me
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Uh oh, we’ve crossed into cream puff territory now
- Thread starter
- #328
Uh oh, we’ve crossed into cream puff territory now
My passengers have to drink a lot
- Thread starter
- #330
Because of your driving?
Fact
The wounded gladiator arrived yesterday and is waiting for an open bed in the hospital so that it’s vitals can be harvested and put on ice for transplant...
With it, came Ole’ Blue’s block which was called back into active duty from a cushy retirement gig as a coffee table on Nolen’s shop porch. It was carted off to the machine shop today to get it back in fighting shape.
In other news, the Warthog’s original motor has been discharged and should be put back into service soon.
With it, came Ole’ Blue’s block which was called back into active duty from a cushy retirement gig as a coffee table on Nolen’s shop porch. It was carted off to the machine shop today to get it back in fighting shape.
In other news, the Warthog’s original motor has been discharged and should be put back into service soon.
- Thread starter
- #333
- Thread starter
- #334
Way back when I installed the OME lift from Cruiser Outfitters I did not have the monster fuel cell in the back.
During my test drive weekend it was clearly obvious the leafs I took out needed to go back in to compensate for the 55 gallon gas tank
So, I dove in today between conference calls to add them back.
Well, not all. I added all to the drivers side and left out the last small overload spring on the passenger side to compensate for the infamous Cruiser lean I’ve had.
This job sucks. The leafs are heavy and getting everything lined back up is hard work.
The rear came up almost 2”. Looking forward to dropping the 4.4 back in to get the final stance
Right after I got the drivers side done I got a call from my oldest friend that he had a present for me. I loaded up in The Goat and went to grab it
During my test drive weekend it was clearly obvious the leafs I took out needed to go back in to compensate for the 55 gallon gas tank
So, I dove in today between conference calls to add them back.
Well, not all. I added all to the drivers side and left out the last small overload spring on the passenger side to compensate for the infamous Cruiser lean I’ve had.
This job sucks. The leafs are heavy and getting everything lined back up is hard work.
The rear came up almost 2”. Looking forward to dropping the 4.4 back in to get the final stance
Right after I got the drivers side done I got a call from my oldest friend that he had a present for me. I loaded up in The Goat and went to grab it
Some years ago, I tore the L.F. motor mount apart while horsing out of a mud hole. Engine rocked over putting the fan into the shroud and the shrapnel took out the radiator. Fan and radiator were less than a year old. I replaced the two front mounts fan and radiator. A month later I repeated the same scenario. I ordered a new “full” set of mounts, new blade and radiator. This time I sliced off the studs on the mounts, drilled through the whole assembly and through bolted them with ½” grade 8 bolts.
I put the front mounts in first and when I put in the rears, I saw they were more worn than I previously noticed and did have some play in the L.R mount. I figured the bad rear mount allowed the engine to rotate under torque pulling the R.F. mount apart under extension. Oh well, the through bolts were already in and all is good now. Even if I had seen the play in the L.R. mount first, I still would have through bolted the fronts. If I ever need to replace the fronts, I’ll through bolt them again.
BTW, really enjoying this thread.
- Thread starter
- #336
This is key. When I was redirecting my 1967 FJ45, JimC said the same.
If you have a broken motor mount, replace them all. Worn rears will kill fronts.
Great point. Thanks for chiming in.
If you have a broken motor mount, replace them all. Worn rears will kill fronts.
Great point. Thanks for chiming in.
- Thread starter
- #337
The surprise was a beautiful set of new tires. Back during Christmas I was talking to my friend that owns one of the largest tire wholesalers in the south. I told him about getting a set of Yokohama MTG003 for my 40 in exchange for some press and photos.
He had me write up a pitch and a few months later these Maxxis Razrs showed up.
Can’t wait to test them out. Ill measure them compared to the other tires I have but the initial assessment is they are heavy. 10# heavier than the KM2 they replaced.
They took a little weight. Not bad at all. They have the green alignment dots that really make that job easier. Makes me crazy that BFG won’t use that method.
He had me write up a pitch and a few months later these Maxxis Razrs showed up.
Can’t wait to test them out. Ill measure them compared to the other tires I have but the initial assessment is they are heavy. 10# heavier than the KM2 they replaced.
They took a little weight. Not bad at all. They have the green alignment dots that really make that job easier. Makes me crazy that BFG won’t use that method.
- Thread starter
- #338
Since I lost my Ebrake I’ll be using a line lock for backup and quick stops to jump out.
Before you start, I know, These are not supposed to be Ebrakes and the white gloved inspectors at Cruise Moab will send me packing were I to try to sneak the Warthog into their ranks.
It’s a solid solution and a real good theft deterrent. These things will not move when the front brakes are clamped down.
So, what to do, how to integrate this into the system.
I use a simple electric setup from Summit. PN #sum-760002
The drag guys use them to do burnouts and launches. That’s how you find rhem
To make them work on a Cruiser, Farm a couple of 10mm ends from an old brake line.
Take some 7/16” steel brake line and some 3/16” ends for the line lock.
You need a double flare kit. You can rent one from the parts house. I bought one years ago.
I had done the @Texican mod to lengthen the brake line when I lifted the truck. This involves removing the bolts holding the rubber line to the frame to get the extra length.
I added a longer rubber line and bent the 360* line that comes off the firewall where the junction block faces to the front.
New lines added.
Done. Now to get a brake bitch to help me bleed them.
Before you start, I know, These are not supposed to be Ebrakes and the white gloved inspectors at Cruise Moab will send me packing were I to try to sneak the Warthog into their ranks.
It’s a solid solution and a real good theft deterrent. These things will not move when the front brakes are clamped down.
So, what to do, how to integrate this into the system.
I use a simple electric setup from Summit. PN #sum-760002
The drag guys use them to do burnouts and launches. That’s how you find rhem
To make them work on a Cruiser, Farm a couple of 10mm ends from an old brake line.
Take some 7/16” steel brake line and some 3/16” ends for the line lock.
You need a double flare kit. You can rent one from the parts house. I bought one years ago.
I had done the @Texican mod to lengthen the brake line when I lifted the truck. This involves removing the bolts holding the rubber line to the frame to get the extra length.
I added a longer rubber line and bent the 360* line that comes off the firewall where the junction block faces to the front.
New lines added.
Done. Now to get a brake bitch to help me bleed them.
piiiiiiiiiiiiiimp.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 584
- Messages
- 16,434
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Yup, line locks are on my short list.
