The Resurection of 'The Beast' (12 Viewers)

[Trollhole]

Are your rear motor mounts on correctly?

 

[Southeast Overland]

Isolators are more hockey puck style but they are there and the motor mounts appear to be installed correctly.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Swept out the Pig really well and started installing the QuietCrap. It goes down pretty easily and adheres like white on rice! You can gently, and I mean gently lay it down but once a bit of pressure hits it it's there to stay!

Checked my motor mounts again and they appear to be installed correctly. I'm going to examine the skid plate more closely and see if it is bent more than I think.

 

[usmcruiser]

Swept out the Pig really well and started installing the QuietCrap. It goes down pretty easily and adheres like white on rice! You can gently, and I mean gently lay it down but once a bit of pressure hits it it's there to stay!

Please be sure to let us know how much you used.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Please be sure to let us know how much you used.

I'll let you know how far one roll goes and how much I need to do two layers over the entire Pig - but I'm going to use every inch of what I have. I hope that 100 sqft will cover the entire floor, inside doors, inside rear quarters, underside roof, and underside hood. If I have any left overs I'll do a second coat on the front floors.

 

[yooper]

That sounds like about 160 sq ft.

 

[Southeast Overland]

That sounds like about 160 sq ft.

You are probably right. Scratch covering the rear cargo and quarters and maybe the rear roof. Oops

 

[CarmMontana]

Hey Eventhough. I saw a pic of a alternate headliner that may be what something "us" non traditional pigsters would be able to utilize. Check it out, saw this on fj55 dual ute conversion build site.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Hey Eventhough. I saw a pic of a alternate headliner that may be what something "us" non traditional pigsters would be able to utilize. Check it out, saw this on fj55 dual ute conversion build site.

That might be exactly what I want...I'm looking through that thread now. Thanks!

 

[CarmMontana]

That might be exactly what I want...I'm looking through that thread now. Thanks!

If you find out how they did it let me know.

 

[Sno bored]

I'm thinking of something similar once I start putting a headliner in. Here is a thread discussing headliners that might give you some good info. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/6019-fj40-headliner-replacement-options.html

 

[Southeast Overland]

I'm thinking of something similar once I start putting a headliner in. Here is a thread discussing headliners that might give you some good info. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/6019-fj40-headliner-replacement-options.html

Thanks for the link. The difference between headliners for 40's and 55's as I see it is that 40's have a smooth surface, where 55's have the roof supports that have to be dealt with...still trying to figure this one out.

I have spent several hours putting down QuietCrap sound deadener in my Pig. I have the front floors pretty much done back to the rear of the rear seats and I'm not even through my first roll. Next will be the underside of the roof, then the underside of the hood, then the inside of the doors (gonna use my scrap there). Hood will be covered sparingly. Then a second coat on the tranny hump and front floors and under the front seat. Based on my calc's I'll be running short then and might not have enough to do the rear cargo area.

After sound proofing is complete I'm building a rear sleeping platform for my Michigan trip in August.

I installed an aftermarket windshield fluid squirter thingy yesterday - $10 for two at your FLAPS but I only needed one. I think it will work just fine. I've put together enough pieces to add two more cross-bars to my Yakima roof rack for a total of 4. I have a basket on the rear two and would like to find a used basket for the front two.

Also found a spot of rust on the inner driver's fender...got pi$$ed...then dug into it and it is very small and hasn't spread. I cleaned it up well and a good layer of RustBullet should take care of things.

Oh, also bought an EdgeStar 43qt fridge...this thing rocks!

 

[PabloCruise]

Let us know how much Quiet Crap for the inside of the roof - pics would be great!

 

[Southeast Overland]

Let us know how much Quiet Crap for the inside of the roof - pics would be great!

I'll try to snap some pics tonight.

The amount you need depends on how much coverage you want. You could probably get pretty good results with about 15 sqft to deaden noise, but I'm going to cover the whole thing partly b/c I'm thinking of putting in a headliner...

 

[Southeast Overland]

I finished install of the QuietCrap sound deadener. 100sqft covered the entire floor, inside all doors, both rear quarters, rear wheel humps, interior firewall, whole underside of roof and hood. I'm gonna get my exhaust installed Weds and today I also drew up some plans for a rear storage/sleeping platform that I hope to install this week.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Question for y'all...

The platform I'm going to start building this week in the rear of my Pig will serve as both a sleeping platform and a storage area. I don't have time to make drawers so I'm going to use compartment cubbies-type areas and some tupperware slid in from the back.

I drew up some draft plans last night. The rear area will be easy - I'm basically working in a box-type-area rear of the wheel wells. The next level under the now removed rear seat won't be too bad - but I'm kind of limited with what I can do just behind the rear seats in the old rear seat foot rest area.

I'm planning to lay down thicker plywood in as many areas as I can so I can tie in to the floors without using a bunch of sheet metal screws through my floors - don't wanna do that but the further forward I go the harder it gets - that is the floors are curved, have multiple levels, and its gonna be a PITA.

Does anyone have any good ideas on better ways to do this???

 

[yooper]

There aren't any places where you can bolt into the floor or sides? How about the existing tie down points in the floor? You don't need much floor attachment really, a few bolts will do. Don't cover up all the low spots, that's cargo space! Just make plywood legs that match the floor contour; that alone will keep it from sliding around.

I expect there are some 55 cargo platform designs here on MUD if you look around...

 

[Southeast Overland]

I'm going to tie in mid-way to the old rear seat belt points. In the back I'm going to probably use two mid-size bolts with wide washers. In the very front I'm not sure...maybe a 16 ga tie in to the front seat belt points.

I'm going to use all of my storage space. Any 'under' floor will be on the current floor. I was thinking about putting plywood on the bottom so I won't be throwing all of my gear/tools/etc on top of the new sound deadner (which I still need to get pics up of).

 

[yooper]

yeah, throw some carpet or floor mats over your sound deadener.

 

[Southeast Overland]

yeah, throw some carpet or floor mats over your sound deadener.

I have the stock rear floormat that I was going to put in there but I don't have the far rear cargo mat. I was shying away from carpet due to the rust monster.

Maybe instead of using plywood as a bottom cover for the cargo area I can use one of those truck bed mats... That wouldn't hold any water like the carpet would and would provide some additional sound insulation.