No problem, home most nights. You can use the blast cabinet any time.
The Resurection of 'The Beast'
- Thread starter Southeast Overland
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- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
The intake manifold architecture is the same, 75-87.
Just the carb, valve cover, air cleaner was squished to fit under the low, sleek hood of the new FJ60 in 1981.
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #983
I tried to work on my power steering set up a bit last night. As a review - some think all my issues started with my power steering pump that was slightly out of alignment from my crank pulley/harmonic balancer. k9crazy gave me a power steering pump mount from IPOR that mounts directly to my block, cradles a PS pump and is adjustable for tension. Unfortunately, the mount won't bolt to my mini truck pump as far as I can see.... I'll take some pics but probably won't be able to post them for a week and a half as I am about to go out of town on work. 
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
The PS pump mount on there was an IPOR prototype.
TJK
TJK
yooper
SILVER Star
It was pretty funky, as prototypes are wont to be, very difficult to adjust to make it line up; I had a lot of
moments with it. I think the water pump failed for me because the pulley was getting torqued off axis funny. May have been the cause of the crank end getting messed up too.Of course it had nothing to do with the crappy rebuild the Toyota dealer did. That engine was a time bomb.
Southeast Overland
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- #986
Cam @ IPOR already responded to my email!
The mount I have is for a Saginaw pump. Can I use a Saginaw pump that mates to the IPOR mount with all of my other mini-truck PS stuff?
The mount I have is for a Saginaw pump. Can I use a Saginaw pump that mates to the IPOR mount with all of my other mini-truck PS stuff?
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #987
I'm told by Cam @ IPOR that I can mount a Saginaw pump on the IPOR bracket and use the rest of my mini-truck stuff.
Time to find a Saginaw pump.
Time to find a Saginaw pump.
Steve why not just use the PS pump and bracket off the 83 fj60 you have?
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #989
Hmmm - I have the pump but not the pulley. I sold the pulley to lowtideride awhile back when he was in a bind. I'll see if the pulley off of the mini-truck will fit the 60 pump.
The
keeps asking what I want for Christmas - maybe I'll tell her to buy me a powersteering pump! LOL
The
keeps asking what I want for Christmas - maybe I'll tell her to buy me a powersteering pump! LOL
Southeast Overland
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- #990
Well, I have just about everything tied up on my end prepping for the motor rebuild until I receive parts back from the machine shop. A few things I did today were repainted the fan shroud, cleaned and painted my valve cover from my original 76. I think it will get one more coat of paint though. Also painted shift linkage b/c they were sitting out infront of me. My shocks are pretty beat but for the time beating I'm going to bolt them back in (Rancho 9000's) and I'll replace them later. That will save me a couple hundred $$$.
I talked to the machine shop late Fri and my crank is ready and my bolts etc should be out of the hot tank and ready for pick up first of the week before Thanksgiving.
I hacked apart my old rear tire carrier to refab it with some stronger 2x2. I had originally used 1/8 inch thick tube for the swing arm but will now use 3/8 inch. I need to pick up one more bushing and sleeve from IPOR and a bit more metal from the hardware store and I can start welding again. I'll just tack things in place and borrow a friends 220 to finish the welds. Same friend is going to straighten my rear bumper which has an end dented into the cab about 2 inches. Once the bumper is straightened I'm going to use 2x2x3/16 inch tube again and weld in some rear quarter protection.
I talked to the machine shop late Fri and my crank is ready and my bolts etc should be out of the hot tank and ready for pick up first of the week before Thanksgiving.
I hacked apart my old rear tire carrier to refab it with some stronger 2x2. I had originally used 1/8 inch thick tube for the swing arm but will now use 3/8 inch. I need to pick up one more bushing and sleeve from IPOR and a bit more metal from the hardware store and I can start welding again. I'll just tack things in place and borrow a friends 220 to finish the welds. Same friend is going to straighten my rear bumper which has an end dented into the cab about 2 inches. Once the bumper is straightened I'm going to use 2x2x3/16 inch tube again and weld in some rear quarter protection.
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #991
Body shop didn't get my hot tanked parts back to me before Thanksgiving.
I only got about an hour and a half in over the holidays. I was able to close up my driver's rear quarter panel - I had all the gas lines torn apart trying to track down a fuel vapor leak. Everything seems OK so it went back together.
I need to replace my choke cable. I trashed it removing my original 2F. I have two questions.
1) What size nut is on the back of the choke cable pull handle?
2) How in the heck do I get to this thing?
I took off the vents below the choke cable pull handle and could not access the nut that way. Then I dropped the parking brake but couldn't access the nut that way. Then I unscrewed the gauge cluster and carefully pulled it to the driver's side. Doing this I could get my fingers on the nut and almost get a wrench on it but I'm working by feel and couldn't figure out the nut size and also there seemed to be something blocking the bottom side of the nut. Does anyone have any advice on how to get the choke cable out so it can be replaced? The cable itself is fine - what I screwed up was the spiral housing.
I only got about an hour and a half in over the holidays. I was able to close up my driver's rear quarter panel - I had all the gas lines torn apart trying to track down a fuel vapor leak. Everything seems OK so it went back together.
I need to replace my choke cable. I trashed it removing my original 2F. I have two questions.
1) What size nut is on the back of the choke cable pull handle?
2) How in the heck do I get to this thing?
I took off the vents below the choke cable pull handle and could not access the nut that way. Then I dropped the parking brake but couldn't access the nut that way. Then I unscrewed the gauge cluster and carefully pulled it to the driver's side. Doing this I could get my fingers on the nut and almost get a wrench on it but I'm working by feel and couldn't figure out the nut size and also there seemed to be something blocking the bottom side of the nut. Does anyone have any advice on how to get the choke cable out so it can be replaced? The cable itself is fine - what I screwed up was the spiral housing.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
The nut is a 17mm hex. A stubby wrench is a necessity. Once it's cracked loose, it can usually be spun off w/ fingertips.
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #993
Thanks Jim - I'll swing by Northern Tool at lunch and pick up some stubbies.
Is squeezing my hand behind the gauge cluster the best way to get at the nut? (I do have small girlie hands...)
Yo Juice,
I hadn't looked at this thread in a looooong time but I just skimmed threw ALL 34 pages and I have to say:
You are a 55 lovers hero for transforming this
from a real basket case to the that she is now!!! Very nice work!!!
I hadn't looked at this thread in a looooong time but I just skimmed threw ALL 34 pages and I have to say:
You are a 55 lovers hero for transforming this
from a real basket case to the that she is now!!! Very nice work!!!
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #995
Yo Juice,
I hadn't looked at this thread in a looooong time but I just skimmed threw ALL 34 pages and I have to say:
You are a 55 lovers hero for transforming this
Thanks - I've learned a lot - working on a Pig to this extent is not cheap but it is cheaper than therapy!
Yo Juice,
I hadn't looked at this thread in a looooong time but I just skimmed threw ALL 34 pages and I have to say:
You are a 55 lovers hero for transforming this
Pictures don't do it justice. In person Steve has transformed this 55 from something I thought was a hopeless mess into a beauty.
Steve we need a stud gun.
Hows the machine work coming? I'm losing faith with 81 Auto. I think we need to find a new machine shop for the club.
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #997
Thanks Troll.
Re the stud gun - I've been looking a bit - I need to swing by Northern and see what they have.
Re 81 - I'm going to call again today and try to get my hot tanked parts and lite a fire to get my machine work done. Do you have anything waiting there?
I'm SURE they DON'T!!! That's why I called it a "Basket Case" before and "
" after!!! Pics never seem to do anything true justice. I have no doubt that if I had seen it before and then now it would be hard to believe it was even the same piggie!
Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #999
81 still has my parts in the hot tank. They have soaked for at least a week - they should be plenty clean. I'm supposed to be able to pick them up by the end of the week.
Re: 81's work it seems that they do good work and their prices are reasonable. They answer the phone every time I call and I always get to speak to the guy who is doing the work. It appears right now one of their business clients brought in a bunch of vehicles to have motors rebuilt and dropped back in. I did tell them that I wasn't in a huge hurry and a few month turn around was OK so I can't hold that against them. When I go back in I will get a hard time frame to get the machined parts back. I want to have my Pig running by the end of March which will give me two and a half months to iron out any problems before GSMTR.
My Piggie will make GSMTR!!!!
Re: 81's work it seems that they do good work and their prices are reasonable. They answer the phone every time I call and I always get to speak to the guy who is doing the work. It appears right now one of their business clients brought in a bunch of vehicles to have motors rebuilt and dropped back in. I did tell them that I wasn't in a huge hurry and a few month turn around was OK so I can't hold that against them. When I go back in I will get a hard time frame to get the machined parts back. I want to have my Pig running by the end of March which will give me two and a half months to iron out any problems before GSMTR.
My Piggie will make GSMTR!!!!
Southeast Overland
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- #1,000
So here is the deal.
I've been thinking about this long and hard and I'm going to give this project a kick in the seat of the pants today...stay tuned...I'm making phone calls.
I've been thinking about this long and hard and I'm going to give this project a kick in the seat of the pants today...stay tuned...I'm making phone calls.
