The Resurection of 'The Beast'
- Thread starter Southeast Overland
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- Thread starter
- #1,023
I love old pics of the Pig!
I don't recognize the front bumper. I see where the hole in the upper passenger fender came from. I also closed up the holes from those mirrors and have stock mirrors on it now.
The wheels were white??? When I wire wheeled all the gray off I found black paint - not a speck of white.
I think I've spent too much time at Tellico. I knew exactly where that Pic was. That spot looks much different now.
I painted the wheels much in the same way. I used note cards stuck between the rim and tire. It worked out pretty darn well. I did bust off one of the wheel weights, so, I marked with Sharpie where the outer weights went and their size so I can replace them when I'm done. I still need to shoot a little matte clear coat to help with clean-up.
I'm seriously thinking about tieing in the IPOR sliders to the frame. I want to think through it a bit more. I've replaced a bunch of rust with good 16 ga sheet in the door sill area but I would hate to come down on HARD on a rock and do a ton of damage. I also don't want to rip a hole in the frame with the tie-ins, so, I think I'll have my bud sandblast the frame and then I'll weld the tube to the frame with some plate reinforcements and gussetts....the list never gets shorter...
I don't recognize the front bumper. I see where the hole in the upper passenger fender came from. I also closed up the holes from those mirrors and have stock mirrors on it now.
The wheels were white??? When I wire wheeled all the gray off I found black paint - not a speck of white.
I think I've spent too much time at Tellico. I knew exactly where that Pic was. That spot looks much different now.
I painted the wheels much in the same way. I used note cards stuck between the rim and tire. It worked out pretty darn well. I did bust off one of the wheel weights, so, I marked with Sharpie where the outer weights went and their size so I can replace them when I'm done. I still need to shoot a little matte clear coat to help with clean-up.
I'm seriously thinking about tieing in the IPOR sliders to the frame. I want to think through it a bit more. I've replaced a bunch of rust with good 16 ga sheet in the door sill area but I would hate to come down on HARD on a rock and do a ton of damage. I also don't want to rip a hole in the frame with the tie-ins, so, I think I'll have my bud sandblast the frame and then I'll weld the tube to the frame with some plate reinforcements and gussetts....the list never gets shorter...
- Thread starter
- #1,025
Gotcha - I'll email Lance to see what he thinks.
I'm afraid my vacation schedule for the year is already full. We are taking a family driving trip West for three weeks and will attend three Cruiser events on that trip: TUTapaloozaIII, the McGrew Trail Ride, and the 3FE Bash.
I will be there in spirit, please take lots of pics, the pig is very photogenic!
- Thread starter
- #1,028
Cam says definitely tie the sliders to the frame and there won't be an issue having the sliders tied to the frame and the sill on my truck.
I'm going to use 2x2x3/16 square with a ~ 4 inch by 4 inch 3/16 plate welded to the frame and a few gussets. I'll gusset the 2x2 to the sill also to be safe.
Schweet!!!
I'm going to use 2x2x3/16 square with a ~ 4 inch by 4 inch 3/16 plate welded to the frame and a few gussets. I'll gusset the 2x2 to the sill also to be safe.
Schweet!!!
- Thread starter
- #1,030
Rear wheel repaint is finished. Hopefully tomorrow I'll finish the fronts.
Bellhousing paint is finished. Might also get the hood painted tomorrow if I can find the right paint - Rustoleum Canvas White.
Bellhousing paint is finished. Might also get the hood painted tomorrow if I can find the right paint - Rustoleum Canvas White.
- Thread starter
- #1,031
My wonderful wife let me get about 4 hours in this afternoon on the Pig. I painted the front and spare wheels - all they need now is clear coat but I'm going to let the black paint cure for a while.
I also ground 5 out of 8 slider mounts down and flush to the frame from where some sliders welded to the frame once. Some of the body underbracing was cut up and some body mounts welded -
- but I'm fixin' it.
I also ground 5 out of 8 slider mounts down and flush to the frame from where some sliders welded to the frame once. Some of the body underbracing was cut up and some body mounts welded -
- but I'm fixin' it.
- Thread starter
- #1,032
I don't know where those white wheels got off to - mine are all black. The spare is black and it was never painted.
Now - some questions about my exhaust and intake manifold.
I'm repairing the 83 intake and exhaust manifold. The gaskets and what I believe is a heat shield between the two are shot along with several broken bolts and studs. I need to replace everything.
I've been warned that the heat riser? (thingy with the circular spring) is prone to fail. I have two exhaust manifolds with this problem. So, to guarantee the the manifold I have with a working springy insulator continues to work I need to use the SOR Stainless Steel Heat Riser Insulator @ Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Page 044-Manifolds and two gaskets Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Search On-044-08. Thats $60 before shipping. Any suggestions? Is this the best way to go? Brian from ACC told me to remove the stock springy insulator and don't even worry about the SOR Stainless Steel insulator. What cha think?
I have a $20 SOR gift card - which should cover shipping...
Now - some questions about my exhaust and intake manifold.
I'm repairing the 83 intake and exhaust manifold. The gaskets and what I believe is a heat shield between the two are shot along with several broken bolts and studs. I need to replace everything.
I've been warned that the heat riser? (thingy with the circular spring) is prone to fail. I have two exhaust manifolds with this problem. So, to guarantee the the manifold I have with a working springy insulator continues to work I need to use the SOR Stainless Steel Heat Riser Insulator @ Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Page 044-Manifolds and two gaskets Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Search On-044-08. Thats $60 before shipping. Any suggestions? Is this the best way to go? Brian from ACC told me to remove the stock springy insulator and don't even worry about the SOR Stainless Steel insulator. What cha think?
I have a $20 SOR gift card - which should cover shipping...
Steve you could just lock the spring so it stays closed. A small tack weld would fix that.
In most cases the flap sticks open allowing exhaust gasses to heat the intake manifold for extended periods of time. This cycling usually causes cracks in the intake. If you fixed it where it stayed close I think you wouldn't have to worry about it.
I think I have the insulator that goes around the bottom part of the manifold. It's yours if it is the same one.
I also have a 5 gallon bucket of bolts you can pic through if you need some bolts.
I probably have a set of good studs if you need those also.
Personally while you have the manifold out I'd have it ceramic coated. 100 dollars will make a big difference in reducing engine bay heat.
In most cases the flap sticks open allowing exhaust gasses to heat the intake manifold for extended periods of time. This cycling usually causes cracks in the intake. If you fixed it where it stayed close I think you wouldn't have to worry about it.
I think I have the insulator that goes around the bottom part of the manifold. It's yours if it is the same one.
I also have a 5 gallon bucket of bolts you can pic through if you need some bolts.
I probably have a set of good studs if you need those also.
Personally while you have the manifold out I'd have it ceramic coated. 100 dollars will make a big difference in reducing engine bay heat.
- Thread starter
- #1,034
Might do that...simple and cheap = good.
Thats what happened to my 76 - two cracks in the intake from flap sticking open.
Sweet - THANKS! I had two stock insulators in the manifolds I disassembled but they all fell apart in my hand.
I can use a stud. The PO of the 83 60 broke one off which I still have to drill out - after I buy a new drill. The drill I used to drill my rear bumper finally gave out...
I was just reading through your BG2F thread and was thinking about that. Where did you get yours done? Do I need to have the intake/exhaust manifolds machined before I get the exhaust ceramic coated?
Might do that...simple and cheap = good.
Thats what happened to my 76 - two cracks in the intake from flap sticking open.
Sweet - THANKS! I had two stock insulators in the manifolds I disassembled but they all fell apart in my hand.
I can use a stud. The PO of the 83 60 broke one off which I still have to drill out - after I buy a new drill. The drill I used to drill my rear bumper finally gave out...
I was just reading through your BG2F thread and was thinking about that. Where did you get yours done? Do I need to have the intake/exhaust manifolds machined before I get the exhaust ceramic coated?
Millenium Performance. He is in the loacal shops section on the UC section. Ask him what should be done first.
If the head is at the machine shop have them remove the stud.
- Thread starter
- #1,036
Will do - I still have the manifold.
ETA: I just do have the exhaust manifold coated - right?
Last edited:
yes...
Southern Auto Classics formerly known as Millennium Performance Coating
Mauldin, SC right beside NAPA in Mauldin or across the street from Dukes mayonaise plant.
Phone (864)627-0601
Website in the works.
Good guys. They ceramic coated my headers for 100$ Did a good job.
Ask for Wayne.
